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red930

(Re)building my (new) computer

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Alright guys, over the next few weeks I'm going to be tearing down my current computer and adding a Danger Den watercooling system, cosisting of:

 

Athlon Socket 939 TDX (Silver block version)

Black Ice Extreme 3 radiator - uses 3 120mm fans

Black Ice mini 2 radiator - uses a pair of 80mm fans

DD 7800 SLI solution

DD water pump

and assorted reservoirs, tubing, attachments and whatnot.

 

All this will be moved from my curent Lian Li V1000 to the monstrous Lian Li V2000 (Seriously, this thing is frickin huge, I tihnk I could live in it)

 

Anyways, I will be holding off final assembly/oc until RGone and Angry_Games review the new Expert board...if it's good I'll buy it (and I know it will be good), but if not I'll have to mod the SLI blocks to fit my current SLI-Dr somehow, or (god-forbid) switch to an Asus or something...

 

The parts should be in soon, so I'l have picks up as I put them together, but seriously, if you have any opinions about how it could/should be done, I'm all ears. I haven't decided whether I'm going to get a window panel for this yet, since quite frankly I don't care for LED's at all, however UV lighting does intrigue me as it looks very good with the DFI board and UV reactant in the fluid.

 

Also I have little experience in actually routing cables (properly) so if there are any tips on that it would be much appreciated.

 

The components that will be included are listed in my sig, with the only exception being the power supply, I'll be moving on to a PC P&C 510--assuming I get the Expert board of course.

 

Finally, my current idea is mount the Black Ice 3 on the top of the case, with thenozzles going into the cane and fanes inside the case sucking air through it into the case itself. The mini 2 will be located just above the power supply (which is on the very bottom in this case) horizontally, with both the fans and radiator on the inside, and the fans blowing air through it. Any suggestions are welcome. There is a massive area for hard drives (12) that can easily be torn down to make room for the pump, reservoir, etc...so yeah, please get critical, I don't mind. If it turns out I need something new I'll get it with my magic-goodies creator (credit card)

 

One more thing, anybody know if those white plasitc hose clamps that DD has work well? Or can i just get some real hose clamps with screws? Thanks a lot guys, this could get interesting over the next few weeks.

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Yeah I've been thinking about that too...

 

The mini is about a 3rd of the size, and likely won't help much at all interms of cooling (maybe half a degree, I dunno) thing is I have PERFECT place for it, so I figured I'd get it (only another $30) just to see what I could do with it.

 

I just got everything in the mail (cept for the fans, tubing, and additive, which I forgot all about... :rolleyes: ) and I've been tryin to lay it out in my head, but it's next to impossible without having the motherboard to look at clearances. So I may not get much done before that comes in, unfortunately.

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I've got a Danger Den liquid cooling setup and I'm running it in a (I believe) 2100B Lian-Li case. I think the only difference between my case and yours is that my case does the closed door in the front whereas yours has the drive bays exposed, etc. In any case, same insides.

 

Here's what I would do if I were you... Knock out all 12 drive bays in the lower portion of the case. There are seven 5 1/4" drive bays up top. Use the 5 1/4" bays (from top down as follows)

 

1 - Reservoir (be it one that's meant to be seen or one that hides). It's helpful for this to be the top-most item in your case.

2 - Optical 1

3 - Optical 2

4 - Empty

5,6,7 - Hard drive holder (for three drives)

 

Now with all that room in the bottom of the case you easily have enough room for your triple radiator, pump, and PSU. Use a dremel to create three 120mm holes in the bottom of the case. Put inexpensive grills (the chrome finger savers) underneath the case and then mount your triple in the bottom of the case itself with three 120mm fans on top of the radiator pulling cool air from underneath the case through the radiator, into the case. Mount the PSU plate on the back of the case so that the PSU is lower than the two 80mm or 91mm (whatever they are) fans. Install two fans (skipp that second radiator). These fans will pull the air that's passed through the radiator out the back of the case, thus the slightly warmer air that's gone through the radiator does not make it to the motherboard / cpu / video card area. The large divider in the case makes it possible to get the two sections of the case relatively isolated. You might even consider stuffing the wire holes with something to make the two sections even more isolated.

 

The beauty of this approach is that the bulkiness of the radiator and pump are contained in the lower portion of the case. Cool air from outside the case is pulled through the radiator but that slightly warmed air is pulled out of the bottom section of the case.

 

I didn't look closely at your DD parts but make sure you're not watercooling your NB. Just cool your CPU and video card(s). If you put RAMsinks on the video cards (I assume you will or that they already have them), mount a 120mm fan in the top portion of the case such that air will pass over the video card ramsinks.

 

Just a few suggestions :)

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Thanks for the suggestions, I've been considering removing the HDD cages...but damn I love the design. I probably will scrap the smaller radiator as it'd be a pain to have to rout the extra hoses, plus it looks to be a tight fit that's totally unnecesary given ther BIX3. The only reason I'd use that is to send the water through it directly from the pump, then go from there to the CPU, thus dissipating any heat generated by the pump itself, and would be a short enough run that pressure wouldn't be affected.

 

I'll certainly keep the idea in mind with the BIX3 on the bottom of the case, more than enough room down there, and would be FAR less complex than putting it on the top of the case. Have to wait and see aobut the clearances, and gauge the pain-in-the-butt factor before I make any decision.

 

By the way, what reservoir did you use? I've got a half-sized one that I'm going to use with a fillport reservoir, but I'v considered upgrading to the double sized one as apparently (and I don't know if this is true, but it makes a lot of sense) the more fluid in the system means it'll stay cooler. More mass to heat up means it'll reach quilibrium at a lower temperature basically, so that theoretically is correct, but at this point I'm too lazy to calculate the thermodynamics of it...

 

One quick question though, how do you have a drain set up? I bought a second fillport I was gonn have branch off at the bottom part of the case, but if you have a better solution that'd be good too. :)

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I've been using a T-line from the beginning which I used for filling and draining. I've only drained once because I was removing a NB block from the loop and adding a GPU block. I just used the same T-Line, putting the case on its side which was a bit of a pain but not something that needs to be done that often.

 

I just bought this a few days ago and am waiting for it to arrive. I'll put it in the top bay like I suggested to you...

 

Once I do that, it's got a built-in fill port so filling won't be an issue. As far as draining goes, I had considered using my T-line near the bottom of the case on one of the lines going in or out of the radiator and then a 3" line would go off from the T capped somehow. A AA battery works or maybe something like this . I'm not sure I'm going to use a drain port at all since I intend to leave this rig configured exactly as is for years to come.

 

As far as using a second radiator in order to cool liquid after it leaves the CPU, I had the same impression of how liquid cooling works when I bought my parts. I thought that the liquid leaving the CPU block would be 10 degrees hotter than it was going into the block and that after going through the radiator it would have dropped the 10 degrees again.

 

This really isn't how it works because the flowrate is so fast. I'm not sure I can explain this well but the flowrate is so fast that you hit an equilibrium where the liquid throughout the entire loop is pretty much the same temp. This isn't to say the radiator isn't doing it's job. In fact without a radiator you'd very quickly raise that water, maybe to a boiling point I don't know! Does this make any sense? I have a hard time explaining it and I'm not even positive that this is an accurate portrayal.

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Makes total sense! Probably wouldnt' boil, CPU would hopefully shut down first :rolleyes: But in any case it wouldn't be the same temperature all the way through, the change should be noticeable when measuring the intake and exhaust outlets in the BIX3, only question is about the BIX mini. *sgh*nuthin but problems already and I haven't even started too--apparently ordered the 3/8" tubing instead of the 1/2", so I'll have to wait even longer now. And of course the fan controller I got off of Frozencpu is a far different shade of black and feels cheap, so now I get a to buy another one.

 

Oh well, as long as I do it right this time I won't have to do it agian right?

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