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Everything posted by NoSnipeLimit

  1. Hey mate, To break it down simply for you: Peltiers are a excellent cooling but also heating element, as one side gets cold the other gets hot. So cooling the hot side of a peltier will give you lower temperatures on the cold side. Usually they work in watts. So you must be able to cool your CPU watts + Peltier watts to achieve a good cooling system. On air this might be a bit tricky. Even with water cooling it gets a bit tricky, as you need to cool a lot more heat. I've had a setup that ran ~8c on load and ~10c on idle, but i used 2 water cooling setups. They are good for cooling, stuff and can be used 24/7. Take care when cooling these buggers with water cooling, if the temperature of your piping gets hotter it bends easier and will block off the water and melt your pipes at the peltier end (Happend to me, had water everywhere ) Peltiers are hard to pick out and must be thought about extensively. If you want some help picking out peltiers, i've got a list. Also depending on the peltier you must ensure that the power source is sufficient as they use up a lot more energy.
  2. He overvolted them without proper cooling. Any overclock is as good as a normal setup if it has decent cooling. Have been running overclocked systems for years on end. Wouldn't give him anything again
  3. This can be caused by both heat, and insufficient power to the components at the new acquired speeds. Try cooling it if it's a bit hot, this is also a good idee to cool your card if you plant to increase the volts.
  4. Water cooling is a lot of fun to build Specially if you get the best there is and everything works, I've bought crap and i've bought the best. And the crap was crap, and the best was the best But considering that the crap one I bought cost me only $20. and the expensive one was around $200, the crap one actually didn't do all that bad, but it wasn't beter than just plain air cooling, but was quieter. The expensive one used a dc to ac converter if i remember correctly but that gave in and i replaced it with a transformer of the correct volts and that was fine. Was an eheim 1200 or something, also very quiet. The performance on the expensive one was good, better than any aircooling. clocking was obviouslly better. All and all i've not had any problems as a result of water cooling, maintaining the system isn't a job. The one time in i think few years i had to add water, was kind of easy to notice, because the temperatures rose and you could hear the pump moaning ok so this is probably not the best way to maintain but just goes to show you Same thing happens with fans though. Even when i did manage to get watercooling liquid onto the components, (i'm clumsy) simply drying it off with toilet paper worked fine. Oh and when addeding coolent i also didn't stop the system and accidently spilled some on my gfxcard didnt do much harm though, just turned it off and cleaned it. and was good to go But i figure it's cause the pcb has a layer or something over to protect against shorts and stuff Also it's not out of per portion big, fits neatly in my case. And have not problems going to lans. Sometimes a few air bubbles, but the system works that out very quickly.
  5. I've used a oxy-acethylene torch to make heatpipes(with copper and silver solder). Dont think you'd really have a problem with the aluminum? Lead solder is the easiest way to plug the hole. Heat the whole pot, and just solder it in. When heating the whole pot, it will expand and whatever you got going into the hole will be compressed a bit as it cools down, so i think you'd have a pretty good seal. I've used lead solder on copper as well, but i had a bit more tricky holes to fill That and the high pressure of a closed heated pipe makes it a bit hard to fully enclose a pipe But this is not your problem (also figured out some other techniques after doing that) Good luck, hope to see some results soon hehehe wish i had a scrap yard that has that kind of stuff
  6. Are you going to be running a 64bit operating system? Cause if not, then you might as well just leave the 4gig + memory. Think 4Gig is still enough, it's more about the speed you get, and specially if your going to overclock. Always good to have fast memory Personally I'd only get 4gig.
  7. Good for your first build, would suggest a much stronger gfx if your out for gaming. Would personally go with a HD4850 or better. Have had a good experience with them so far, and no complaints at all. Doesn't sound like money is a problem? if your going for a 37" LCD Might as well spend that little bit extra for the gfx card, and no have to worry about it that much. When gaming is a concern there's pretty hectic hardware to get, but the money linked to that hardware is a lot. Maybe delay the 37" a bit and get a faster cpu, gfx, mem
  8. Do you have an LCD or CRT screen? If it's an old CRT most likely some critter got in there and shorted itself against the tubes, high voltage circuit. Problem is most old CRT screens also smell like they've been burned. If you leave the screen on and unplug the VGA cable, does it still look red? Maybe if it has a Logo that says cable unplugged or out of sync or if you have a CRT with an OSD like that you'd see the red also. If it is an LCD you can do the same, most LCDS have a OSD. If it how ever is a card issue, i had an incident once were my water cooling pipe melted and the liquid ended up on the backside of my GFX card. After drying it off and cleaning the burn black marks, it worked fine, just had a slight blueish color for a while, then went away Also if you know a bit about electronics, you might try and open the cover (CRT) and look for any burn marks, or if maybe an insect or something got in there. Also what you can do is look for any dry-joints and just go over them with the soldering iron and solder. The effect area would be the circuit board plugging into the tube of the CRT. REMEMBER WHEN WORKING ON A CRT/TV OR ANY TUBE, they use a bucket load of electricity and need to be discharged first, locate the rubber plug that has wire connect to it, take a terminal cable, put it on the earth of the screen (there's a lot of metal you can hook that op to) push the terminal cable underneath the rubber as to discharge the screen, suggest you leave the screen off for a while. Also putting the screen on wil discharge an amount (while it's plugged out ofc) But this is just a safety precaution. (i realize this might be more info than you needed but i felt like typing for those who want to get all scientific and blah blah blah, go for it... i'm not an electrical engineer, just your avg joe.)
  9. Hi, I'm looking for someone that is willing to help me import peltiers to south africa. I'm looking to buy 10 peltiers. Would appreciate if someone who knows they can get their hands on peltiers would help me. Thanks
  10. I only tip if the food was good, and usually 10%. If i thought the food was really good 20%. If the waiter/waitress is really 'taking care' of me, in making sure I'm satisfied with the food, and if he/she takes away my plate / drink when I'm done, not 10+ minutes later. Then they'll get a bigger tip also. But if the food was bad, and the waiter said he'll get on it and he can manage to satisfy my still, the tip will be good. Also if the food was bad and the effort was sloppy. I refuse to give a tip.
  11. 1.6Ghz -> 3.2Ghz stock cooling... chip is bound to get hot...
  12. Very nice overclock, but it is to be expected. It's after all just a trimmed down version. Even so, it's still a killer chip once overclocked. The temperatures seem normal for the amount you pushed it. Double the speed, double the temperature seems like a reasonable amount and that with only the stock HSF. Would love to slap my pelt w/c system on there and see what it does. The temperature is a bit high, we know intel can handle the high temp, but it's not advised to run it at that temperature. Some chips can handle more heat than others depends on the fab. Some people like to think of it as CPU = Human, then keeping it around body temperature C2D's have a max die temp of around 68C i think, or 85C which ever doesn't matter, cause each chip's die temp is different. Best is to look it up, see what the limits are and then keep it with in the range your comfortable with. i just like having my cpu run at icey temps cause i can
  13. Vista32bit versions doesn't support 4gig. Still the 3gig limit Vista 64bit supports 4gig and +
  14. I might be wrong but you can't weld copper? Only solder or braze. Plumming is usually lead soldered. But imho, since i've made heatpipes, using silver solder is better. Lead doesn't seal as properly, specially under the amount of pressure required to get the liquid need gas form.(Depends on what liquid you use) I'd say they soldered it. If they like Thermal Take though just machine it to perfection. (though they don't know how to do that with the touching survice) Everything can be taken apart, and it's pretty difficult to put together again. i couldn't get it as neatly as they did.
  15. What happens sometimes when lapping the particles get caught up and form a finer grids without you realizing it, happens mostly when you lap with water. You should see some residue on the paper, and sometimes it will even have a bit of a shine
  16. I'd go for GSkill. They've never let me down. Very good overclocking, loves volts, very stable.
  17. The X2 really means two cores running at 3.0Ghz. They've become cheaper well dirt cheap if you compare to few months ago.
  18. Yep specially cause your using the stock cooler, those pastes are terrible. Had the same problem with mine, but i have it watercooled. Turned out that the IHS wasn't manufactured properly. Remove the cooler, try some AS5 see if that drops the temperature.
  19. AS5 is great stuff, cool laboratories paste is better, but is very corrosive against aluminum(It will eat it away). I've used AS5 on everything that doesn't have a ceramic or mirror finish. What i do like to do is take a little AS5 and like rub it so that it fills all the impurities. You won't get it out of the pores without the AS5 remover or some substance. I know it's not 100% correct but it gives me a thinner layer of AS5, most cases of reapplying AS5 this way dropped my teams 2-3C. GFX card dropped about 5C by removing all paste. (Have koolance gold plated water blocks, mirror finish) The contact surface IMHO should be perfect. Though if you have to put on paste, AS5 is the way to go, or Arctic Ceramique. Oh just for reference on Arctic Ceramique (AC lets call it) the thing with AS5 is that it takes a while to settle, and if you use too much it's hard to work with. AC on the other hand is easier to work with, there are some cases i've seen that AC performs better than AS5 but i think it's only because the process or procedure in which testing wasn't done correctly. I guess it depends on what the situation requires.
  20. Ok so i was able to remove the IHS without breaking the chip. It's a very sexy chip underneath. I modified the socket in such manner, so that i could install my coldplate. It has little rubbers to keep it up right, the surface is mirror shined. So i didn't use any thermal paste between the components. It seems they made a manufacturing fault because the temp drop is 12.5C, which is a lot for only removing IHS (thats on load). Very happy with the results though i had a few moments that i thought i was screwing up the whole thing It's much like the A64 removal just a bit more stress and heat, but when it pops off you feel so relieved.
  21. ROFL yea 1337 would be so leet Lets see if one of the memory manufactures do adopt that it would be cool. But yea DDR3 is coming alone nicely, Intel's new chipset they releasing next month boasts to support DDR3 and eSATA capable of running 4 satas from 1 port. Even though they predict DDR3 only being mainstream in 2008. Which i don't really understand why, because both parties have the technologies ready. If you take in to account also that DDR9 etc is also available, only thing to take in account really is the understanding of these chips and implementation. They could be further along by now... I read about DDR9 a long time ago. But yes DDR3 for pc's did come fast. We were using DDR1 for years. It's good though that the technology is moving forward so fast, means better prices, and faster hardware
  22. Had an interesting case with one of my psu's a 630 watt, were it would run perfectly and when i then turned it off it would trip the circuit breaker. After a few times of that happening the psu died. RMA swapped it immediately.
  23. Thanks Verran, i did search for previous threads probably used some bad keywords. I'll try it a bit latter, the saucepan sounds like a good deal At work atm.
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