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ghostcorps

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Everything posted by ghostcorps

  1. ghostcorps

    Core P5: The Black, Chrome and Hardline edition

    I have finally finished Unfortunately, I have no storage space left to upload images so here is a boring link to my gallery A few things to note if you attempt something like this: the Thermaltake PCIe riser cables are unstable as hell and often simply relax out of a decent connection. Time will only tell what this may do to my cards but so far tests show no damage despite a rough positioning period. The heatsinks' on the Intel 750s are very stubborn, be careful but be brave... I tried to make a video of dying the water but it was a dismal failure lol Crazy, self destructive hardware aside, I am very happy with it
  2. My plan is pretty simple: A complete rebuild of the waterloop while migrating to a Thermaltake Core P5, using hardline PETG with almost all new parts (original build here). No LED lights, no colours or coloured water, just black and chrome and, nickle... and some copper.... tsk tsk. The actual PC components: CPU: Coore i7 5930K MOBO: Asus X99 Deluxe RAM/dimmdrive: 80gb (4*8 +4*16) Corsair Vengeance 2666Mhz GPU: Asus GTX 980 reference (waiting for the TItan XP to magically appear) OS Disk: 2x 240gb Intel 535 (RAID1) Game Disk: 2x 400gb Intel 750 PCIe NVMe (RAID0) And, to hold it all together Thermaltake Core P5 GPU: EK FC980 (carried over from current build) Motherboard: EK FB ASUS X99 mono block Storage: 2x EK I750 Res: EK X3 400 Tubing: PETG Fittings: A boatload of EK fittings Pump: Laing D5 (still going strong) w/ EK pump top Radiator: 360mm XSPC + 120mm Swiftech (both from the last build) Fans: 4x Corsair ML120 I am waiting on a few more parts to come in and will hopefully be able to put it together this weekend. But, I fear the PCIe 4x extension cables for the 750s' may even take a couple weeks to arrive from China but hopefully not. In the meantime I am amusing myself with Sketchup: *The render below uses models for many parts I am not using, it is just a way for me to get an idea of how to run the line.
  3. ghostcorps

    Core P5: The Black, Chrome and Hardline edition

    I highly doubt I will see any benefit The 750s come with decent heatsinks to minimise heat throttling and do a good job of it. I also use a Dimm drive when I game so the 750s would barely even warm up. I just can't help myself when it comes to playing with hardware ps. Dimm drives and NVME PCIe SSDs do very little for your game but for a tech fetishist they spit out some nice numbers. It takes 31 seconds to load my entire Fallout 4 folder with mods (39gb, @18,000files) to the Dimm drive. I would consider OC'ing the SSDs but, the Dimm drive shows little gain beyond slightly shorter load times so I wouldn't bother. ... though now you have me thinking, it would be a fun experiment.
  4. ghostcorps

    Core P5: The Black, Chrome and Hardline edition

    I finally have everything and spent all weekend building but the last bend was extremely tricky and I used up all my pipe I have more in the mail and will finish in the next few days but in the meantime, here is a little teaser...
  5. ghostcorps

    Core P5: The Black, Chrome and Hardline edition

    While I wait for the final parts, I have been playing with the dye. I won't ever use coolants or wetting agents etc. but I am going to dye the water black provided I can find a safe dye. I've chosen a Nigrosine dye first and made a little video of how it behaves. I have a sediment test running but I doubt it will settle, it seems very much soluble.
  6. I still have a lot to do before I can close it up and am too tired to do a long post just yet but I wanted to say that the VRM block from the X79 is very close but without 5mm riser plate it won't fit. No huge surprises there, except maybe that every other dimension was perfect. You will see what I mean in the pics later.
  7. Hi Guys, I was going to hold off upgrading to a full water setup for a little while, but due to temperature issues on my VRM I am forced to look into it a bit early. Currently I have: ASUS Sabertooth X79 Intel 3939K (4.7GHz) Corsair H100 AMD HD7970 As is I can play games without any stress, the CPU doesn't go over 30% use. But, in the future this will change and I know that 50% use for more than 5 minutes puts the VRM past 80C and climbing fast. So I've decided to kit myself out with water and I figure it is best to stick with one manufacturer. This is what I am looking at at the moment: - Koolance MB-ASSTX79 Full Coverage Waterblock for the ASUS Sabertooth X79 - Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block the ATi Radeon HD 7970/7950 - Koolance Reservoir and Pump, RP-1200 - (Is the reservoir on this too small to run with with a CPU & GPU? It looks nice and convenient but seems a bit gimmicky, am I right?) - Koolance Radiator, 2x140mm, Copper (HF) HX-CU1402V - (Is this too small to cool a CPU & GPU?) All the connectors etc are a bit of a mystery, but I can work that out at the store. So what is the consensus? Will this keep me cool for years to come or will I need a bigger rad and res? Thanks for your time
  8. Hahah! Surely it will be something just as counter-intuitive... I am pretty sure the copper is exposed where the fins are, which is the most important part at least
  9. Will do but I have so many pics in this thread I need to remove some to add more! Oops Not much to see yet. It is still just a pile of pretty boxes. Also, while I am here. I noticed a while ago, that the thermostat probe had dissolved and left black shit inside the blocks. I got rid of the probe and spent a while cleaning most of it out but is there an easy way to get the last of it?
  10. In case anyone is interested I will try to log my upgrade here. New Parts: CPU: i5930K RAM: 16G Venegance DDR4 2666Mhz Mobo: Asus X99 Deluxe GPU: Nvidia GTX980 I have all but the parts except new GPU waterblock, once that arrives I will be able to get to work. After a closer look at the X99 Deluxe motherboard and I am confident that the VRM will fit the waterblock from my X79 Sabertooth. When looking at the comparison gif I made (It's poor work I know) it seems like the VRM has moved a little but uses the same configuration. The chipset is not even close. We will find out soon enough
  11. ghostcorps

    Socket 1155/2011 Oc Competition Thread

    Thanks Lab Rat, that was my first thought but I figured it could be a competition to see who could run the highest stable speed.
  12. ghostcorps

    Socket 1155/2011 Oc Competition Thread

    Thanks for your input, very helpful Although you may need to clarify a bit further, I am unsure how someone 'digs up' a thread when it is pinned at the top of the board already. LGA2011 is still relevant to my knowledge, so why not? Thanks, If it was not used why have a section for it in the OP?
  13. ghostcorps

    Socket 1155/2011 Oc Competition Thread

    I am curious. Why are there no Prime95 results? When I built my current machine a few years ago I did a 24hour burn-in at 4.7GHz, on the 3930K. Would this have been worth posting? I am about to do an upgrade so maybe in a month or so I will have something better
  14. Hello again, Long time no chat. It's time to upgrade I have a pretty good idea of what I am doing now but I have a question regarding a bit of Frankenstein'ing. Question 1, I have the Koolance CPU-370 block for my 3930K which is an LGA2011 chipset. I am looking to upgrade the cpu to a 4760k which is an LGA1150. This chipset will fit an LGA2011v3 board but I am not sure if the waterblock will also be compatible. Do I have anything to worry about? Question 2, I have the Koolance MB-ASSTX79 Full Coverage Waterblock for my ASUS Sabertooth X79. As I am upgrading My CPU I need to upgrade this motherboard, it is LGA2011, not LGA2011v3. As LGA2011 has more bandwidth I would prefer to use it but the biggest reason I want to use this chipset is that I have found the ASUS X99 Deluxe, which looks remarkably similar to the Sabertooth X79. Even if I can not fit the Sabertooth waterblocks onto it, the layout means I will not have to refit all the plumbing. Plus it is a kick ass board. The layouts are below, the only thing I can see different is that the PCI Chipset heatsink has an extra heatsink running next to the CPU mount, but if my experience with the Sabertooth is anything to go by: that heatsink is likely just a block of anodized aluminium pressing, raw, against the capacitors. I doubt it is doing much. Sabertooth X79 Layout X99 Deluxe Layout What are my chances of pulling off this trick?
  15. I couldn't remember who convinced me to do it but if it WAS you, you are a champion!
  16. One year later: Just completed the first clean of the system. There was a little bit of algae in the res but when I opened the blocks there were no deposits at all That's with only distilled water and a silver coil after a year! I ran some clean water with about a cup of concentrated peroxide for a day to scrub away any life forms. Otherwise it has been solid as a rock. On a side note, draining is a pain!
  17. Hi Guys, I built a water cooling system a while ago (See HERE for build log), and while it seems to be working a treat, it starts to bubble constantly a couple weeks after a top up. Looking inside I can see that the waterlevel in the res has dropped about an inch or so. I have visually checked at all the connections and also used some tissue to see if there is any moisture in the tight spaces but so far I can't find any. Is there any way air can get in without water getting in? Other than in a pressure chamber I can't think of any options but maybe someone can some up with an idea to steer me in the right direction. Thanks
  18. ghostcorps

    Losing water but there is no leak...

    After a day and half I am pretty sure that tightening the cap on the reservoir a bit harder was all I needed. It guess I simply had not compressed the O-ring enough to make an air tight seal. I'll be back in a week or so to confirm
  19. ghostcorps

    Losing water but there is no leak...

    Thanks guys! It looks like it was the O-ring on the reservoir-cap. Not the pump seal itself. I squeezed the tube just near the pump and I got bubbles coming out from around the filling hole. I've tightened the cap a bit more this time, but I'm scared of overtightening and stripping the plastic thread. If this doesn't do it maybe a bit of gease will fix the seal or else I'll try tightening the O-ring on the pump. Thanks again
  20. I have just completed a 24hr burn-in running the CPU at 4.6Ghz with 1.4V. Getting 70C on both the CPU and VRM. 3DMark Vantage score is 41,840. It is done. Thanks again for all your help.
  21. I couldn't make it any blacker. I have managed to OC the CPU to 4.7Ghz at 1.4V before watercooling, but it ran way too hot and was still asking for more voltage. I haven't had a chance to work out the stable OC yet. I expect it will be around 4.5.
  22. Finally! It has worked like a charm! It is as good as silent while running all fans at 100%. You will notice that the radiator was far too fat to fit in the box, so I decided it would be easier to mount a bracket rather than a shroud. It is not pretty, but it will be pretty well hidden. I have not done any serious overclocking on it yet, 3DMark Vantage only gets 34,450 at the moment, but here are some numbers. The CPU is clocked to 4.2Ghz and now idles at 39C, the GPU clocks down to 300 while idle it sits at 33C. During the test with Prime95 the VRM plateaus at about 64C, the CPU core is at about 61C. During 3DMark Vantage the GPU clocks up to 975 and sits on 39C while running 100%. Below is a graph of the 3DMark Vantage test: The vertical scale is 1-100, either % or Centigrade. Blue is the GPU usage, red is GPU temp, Green is CPU usage, Orange is CPU temp. Some final photos: The GPU block mounted: The VRM, CPU & PCH blocks mounted: Closeups: Water temp goes no higer than 30C during the tests Thanks again for all your help guys, it has been alot of fun. I want to do it again! Update: I have overclocked the HD7970 to a Core clock of 1200Mhz and the Memory clock is 1725Mhz. The voltage is maxed at 1.3V but the temp goes no higher than about 50C!! Tomorrow I'll try to add another update for the CPU overclock. With these settings there are a few artifacts in 3DMark Vantage, but nothing distracting, in game is flawless. I currently get a score of 40,008.
  23. Hello again, I have finished the loop and am flushing it for 48 hours. The gentle typhoon 1150s' are EOL, so I have settled on the Nexus Real Silent fans. As advised earlier, there is no point to having a controller as all the fans and the pump are at 100% and I can not hear a thing while sitting right next to it! Oh well, live and learn. Here are some more shots. And here is the final configuration. nb. the GPU plate is laying upside down cos it can't be stood up. Next step, the install!
  24. Just placed the final order! The last parts should be here in a couple days Here is the final list: CPU: Koolance CPU-370 MOBO: Koolance MB-ASSTX79 Full Coverage Waterblock for the ASUS Sabertooth X79 GPU: Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block the ATi Radeon HD 7970 Pump: Koolance PMP-450 12/24V Water Pump Reservoir: XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing D5 Pumps Radiator 3x120: xspc rx360 Radiator 1x120: Swiftech MCR120 Fans: 4x Nexus Real Silent 120mm Fans (The 1150RPM Gentle Typhoon are not available anywhere!) Controller: Lamptron FC Touch Fan Controller Sensor: Bitspower G1/4 Silver Temperature Sensor Hose: 2m Tygon 3400 Tubing 1/2 ID - Black Drain: Koolance Drain Valve VLV-XTSPLB Straight fitting: 12x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black 1/2 Fitting Angle Fitting: 5x Bitspower Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree 1/2 Fitting Clamp: 12x Koolance Hose Clamp for OD 19mm (3/4in) Antibaterial: PrimoChill Antimicrobial Tube Coil Silver I went with the XSPC RX360 for the large Rad because a) no one stocks the MCR320-QP anymore & Swiftech do not make it. b) Cos it is consistently the highest rated low-RPM rad I can find & c) As push/pull has very little gain in low RPM setups I didn't need it to be slim. Also, this broke 1k... I'm not too phased as I did it over the course of a couple months, so the cost hasn't hit me much... but yeh, just saying this is not a cheap solution. I could have saved a few hundred: Using my existing corsair fans would have saved $96, getting it all in one purchase not four would have saved about $100 + not getting an $80 controller, but I decided I didn't want to cut corners and regret it later. Going in with $700 budget and adding an extra $300 isn't worth crying over, I would have cried more if I held to the budget and built something that was more trouble than it was worth. More unboxing porn to follow in the next couple days, followed by the build
  25. I was going to use a paperclip, but all I had was pliers. As I said it was sitting next to the bin, so preservation was not a consideration My next payday is two Tuesdays away. Providing I don't get any nasty bills in the meantime, I can get the rest Controller: Lamptron FC Touch Fan Controller Fans: Scythe 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1150RPM Fan (x4) GPU: Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block the ATi Radeon HD 7970 Sensor Bitspower G1/4 Silver Temperature Sensor Radiator: Swiftech MCR320-QP
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