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Posts posted by TheyCallMeGunny

  1. Lol, definitely an interesting creation. It seems like this would be really neat for benchmarking phones that have metal bodies for heat dissipation, and seeing how high they can be overclocked before they start to crash. :) Maybe a possible experiment if you happen to have such a device?

    Sorry, only plastic phones. Although most of their heat dissipates through the glass anyways, which is why I just place this on the screen.


    Although I will say this sits almost full time on my router, which has a weird, gel-ish body that holds most of it's heat. I have noticed the surface is cold to the touch but lack any hardware to do an accurate testing of it's efficacy.

  2. So I got bore. (The start of many a dangerous statement in my life.)

    Decided to make a portable heatsink. Teflon Tape prevents scratching and conducts heat relatively well.

    So I soldered a USB cable to a PWM splitter, throw dual 120mm fans on a Hyper 212+... And put it on an iPod shuffle.

    Thought you guys could use your daily laugh.


    PS- Yeah, you can use teflon tape for a portable heatsink. Keeps glass safe snf transfers heat. No joke, good for phones and random devices that get too hot. But mostly good for boredom.

  3. My best advice would be going with Asus Poseidon https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/POSEIDON-GTX980TI-P-6GD5/  and EK-XLC Predator 240 (AIO).  

    This is more about wanting to do something exciting than the efficiency.


    I have an AIO for my CPU (Captain 240). But for my GPU, seeing as I'm upgrading it next month, I'd like this to be an "experiment" to satisfy my own curiosity of the possibility and efficacy of the project, as well I'm sure some people on YouTube would like to know if this is even remotely feasible.


    I'm doing this for fun really.

  4. Sorry for bump, not sure how to edit post on mobile. In case you're curious, I cut the acrylic to precision with a heatgun. I got the heatsink hot as hell and just pushed the acrylic into the heatsink. It cut a thousand little sheets perfectly. Dipped it in a bucket of ice water and the acrylic popped right out of the fins, no residue whatsoever.

    Nice trick to save days of cutting.

  5. I've gotten mod crazy this week. All my pent up neediness for the last 10 years have come out in a slew of ridiculous mods.


    I am now attempting something dangerous: turning my GPU air cooler into fins for a water block. I'm building an acrylic encasement that will be sealed in between the individual fins of the heatsink, with channels to ensure it utilizes all possible surface space.


    I have only one question:


    Which type of adhesive is best to seal the acrylic with? It must meet several conditions:


    1- it must be waterproof.

    2- it must be able to bond to metal and acrylic, particularly on smooth surfaces.

    3- it must be able to tolerate heat, as this Is acrylic water block.

    4- it must be viscous enough to apply with precision: I'm basically using a can of old brushes from painting ceramics for the finer areas here.


    Before I finish, I am fully aware of all the dangers. Yes, I am new to custom PC mods, with only experience doing minor things involving little to no fabrication. But I have almost 20 years of experience with fabrication in areas other than computing. In the end, if I fry my PC it is my fault and mine alone. I'm fine with that. I'm modding it instead of using it because I find the work highly enjoyable.


    So, anyone know of a good adhesive for this job? I have the entire thing laid out and ready, just don't want to waste all these cuts by using the wrong glue.


    Thanks In advance. Will post video of the project if all goes well.

  6. I have an NZXT Phantom. I've already started the painting process in an isolated structure, doing all the right things. But I have a question regarding an image transfer:
    Are any of these methods viable ways to apply an image to the side panel after the final color coat layer and before the clear coat?

    The methods I know of (simplified for brevity) are:

    1- Inkjet printing to aluminum flashing. If using this method, I would "frame" the flashing in to hide borders.

    2- Wax paper toner transfers.

    3- Solvent based toner transfers, involving "dissolving" away the medium leaving only the image.

    The image in question is this:




    The case itself is going to be primarily two-tone: Dark black and a medium-dark grey. Gunmetal Grey and a darker metallic gold.

    EDIT: My concern is not that it won't work, I know that any of these (save the solvent method possibly) can and would work. The question is, would the applied image be of worthwhile quality on such a finish or is this a lost venture? I'm hoping someone has tried this or has enough experience to give me an informed decision. Don't want to ruin a few days' painting with an image that throws the whole thing off.

  7. I agree with Waco 100%.  There isn't any way that the OS could have caused a short circuit or voltage spike that would have damaged your thumb drive or your DVD burner.  It just isn't possible.


    I can understand a driver compatibility issue with your DVD burner not reading or detecting media, but everything else has got to be coincidental.  As for the DVD burner itself, they are so inexpensive now if it were me I'd toss it and just buy another.


    Not sure where you're at, but here in the States you can buy a very good DVD burner for right at $20.

    Seems I might have to. Due to family issues, $20 is harder to squeeze out than you'r think: Had to finangle quite a bit to set aside for my i7. But I guess $20 extra won't kill me. I've been checking all over and it seems nothing is getting this thing back to functionality.


    Well, I don't know how to close this thread, so I'll see if I can edit the title to solved or something, because it seems just buying a new one is my only option.

  8. I have to use testsigning often on Windows (bcdedit -set DRIVER_INTEGRITY_CHECKS off > bcdedit -set TESTSIGNING ON.). However, it is a major personal annoyance to have Windows display "Test Mode" on my desktop while I'm using this. Is there any way to get rid of that notification while using testsigning?

  9. The OS does not control voltage to your motherboard pin-outs,.. the most common ways folks melt a flash drive are using the 1394 port, faulty header or header plugged in backwards.

    Yeah I thought it was a faulty header. But so far nothing else has melted, and my iPhone (hate iPhone, but it was free lol) is plugged into my rear port now. Same one the second drive melted on. Like I said, makes no sense to me either..


    Edit: I can say that it's not plugged in backwards. I'd have to drill a hole in the MB side header to even get it in backwards.

  10. ...I can't tell if you're serious or joking.

    Sadly, serious. I have no idea how the hell a driver issue (or whatever happened) could melt a flash drive. I have never even HEARD of it. And I melted 2 in a row (thought it might be my front panel port, so tried the back, melted that one too.) But it hasn't happened before or since, so the only common factor of both occurrences was I had Windows 10 installed. (And both drives are of identical type, except for the capacity of the drives.)


    Edit: Down the rabbit hole;


    And as far as this particular comment goes, it contains nothing but factual observation. Possibility of coincidence? Sure. But I've had this build for over 5 years (except the GPU, it's only 3 years old) and never once have I melted something. Then I melted 2 USB drives in the 3 days I had windows 10. I have some videos recorded with my cell phone of how ridiculously crazy my desktop would act up with Windows 10- like how using the "reset this pc" option was literally impossible, because when it asked me to "select keyboard layout" (the first step), both my mouse and keyboard were disabled. Meaning I could not proceed. I even tried my mic on the hunch they might've made it voice activated (you never know what they'll do to cater...)

    In short, it caused issues I didn't think were possible. Am I skeptical it was W10's fault? Yes. But available facts strongly support that being the case.


    This time, I took the photo with my monitor in the background so you can tell it's actually my photo. That's the second drive that melted. So I guess there are two common factors: Windows 10 and they're both the same type of drive. Could be the drive, but I don't have enough evidence yet to test. Although I did plug the second one into a family member's Macbook before plugging it into mine (testing that it wasn't just a faulty drive AT the store because of the incident with the first one.) It worked fine there. I have other types of drives in my PC right now, but I don't have a third of that type to test. They're like $8, so I might have to try it just to be certain.


  11. Might be, but I'm really hating on Windows 10 after all it put me through.

    Wait, uploading a photo of another issue that would help indicate W10 could be the issue.
    Okay, attached image. W10 also melted my flash drive.. I have a drive plugged in right now, and it's not metling.. So yeah, W10 had a major fit for me. I actually haven't heard of anyone else getting as much flak from it as I did. The rant would take several days to complete, so I won't.

    But THIS is why I had to install 7 from a Hard Drive, because when I plugged in my flash drive, it said device malfunctioned in about 2 seconds.. And a minute later, I noticed it had melted. I had put the W7 USB installer on it before upgrading, so I know it worked prior to W10.
    As you can see, my Z drive is now STAYING as an installer because I have to plan for if I need to reinstall and can't use the DVD.



  12. I did look for an OBS thread, couldn't find any. Thought there would be one, so if there is please be nice in correcting me lol.

    Alright, so I have some custom settings for OBS that seem made just for twitch. I was given these settings by a partnered friend, and then given them by another partnered friend at another time (so they must be the unofficial 'standard'.) Figured I'd share them with you guys, as well:

    In case you don't want to download the file, I'll also post them in spoiler:


    deblock=0 direct=auto 
    profile=main psy-rd=0.5.0 

    OBS custom.txt

  13. I might be too late but stop at a medical supply place and get a neck brace and don't sweat it. Explain to them what is happening and you will look like a trooper just for showing up.


    This was 4 days ago, never mind. Hope it went well lol.

    I got the job, crooked head and all lol. They did seem to appreciate that I toughed it out and maintained eye contact despite that it was visibly causing me pain.

  14. Used is also great. Cheapest I've found an i5-3570K for $110, and an i7-3930K for $220. Hard to beat those prices for the performance. Also, if you can find used X58 motherboards that support XEON processors, some good overclocking hexacore XEON's around the $50 range.

    How does XEON work in video rendering? I use Blender/Cycles (only recently learned it, but already using it daily) and Sony Vegas Pro 13. I kinda think the XEONs might be unecessary and overkill, but heck what do I know.

  15. I'll admit up front I'm a bit of a Nvidia fanboy. But facts stand that Blender/Cycles simply works best with OpenCL, which means that AMD cards are the best route to go when using it.
    However, I also use Sony Vegas nearly everyday. And Vegas gets a nice kick from Nvidia's CUDA cores.
    As for gaming, I have a personal bias in that I love Nvidia. But really for gaming, either works.

    So my question is this: How considerable is the performance increase with AMD/Blender versus that of Vegas/Nvidia? In my experience, Blender BY FAR takes longer to render, so that's where the increase is most needed. But if Blender's render time is only reduced (hyopthetically) 20% by using a specific AMD card, while Vegas could be dropped say 70% with a Nvidia (or vice versa), then that will be a large factor in my decision of where to upgrade.

    I am saving up for a new CPU and Mobo, actually saved every penny of my last paycheck, so when making your recommendation please try to use the following specs instead of my signature's components:


    Intel Core i7-4790K Devil

  16. I upgraded to Windows 10, and had a terrible time. No need to go into it. But my DVD drive stopped working when I upgraded.
    I've since done a CLEAN install going back to Windows 7. And no matter what I do, my DVD drive still doesn't work.
    The exact issue: It is detected, it has generic drivers (the exact drivers no longer exist online, the link never begins download from MFR site.) But it does not read ANY disc, doesn't even recognize when it's populated. It opens and closes via OS prompts but as far as it's concerned, I don't own a single disc.
    I've done everything device manager allows. I've tried getting drivers, but this was a carry over from an old Dell Inspiron 530s, and Dell's link to download the drivers doesn't work- download never even starts (have tried multiple browsers.)

    Here's the thing. I thought it COULD be just a dirty lens. But I NEVER opened the DVD drive. I've had the same DVD in it forever, and it only stopped working when I installed Windows 10. I attempted a clean regardless, to no avail. I have tried 4 discs, because I only even have 4 discs.

    Device name (according to device manager): HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH30N ATA Device. It's Samsung. If it will help, I can open the case up and find the serial or whatnot.

  17. So I recently did a major review/comparison of the 5 major local recording programs, and while the video contains the FPS  monitor of the games themselves, along with the videos, it doesn't actually track the performance of the recorded file: As in some games I was PLAYING at 60 FPS but the recording would be significantly less due to fluctuations. Seeing as I put a lot of time into that video, I'd like to go back and see if I can add counters for the recorded files as well. Short of watching them with an FPS counter and recording that, is there any way to benchmark a video file and track how many frames it is displaying per second in realtime? If there is, I can easily turn that into a video overlay and edit it in there.

    For help understanding what I mean, here's the video. Notice in the segment with the gameplay recordings (around 3:14), I have the framerate monitors enlarged up top. Those are the playing framerates, and obviously differ greatly from some of the videos at bottom (ahem, dxtory recording was about 1/4 the gameplay FPS). I want to throw in a second monitor with the file FPS as well:


  18. While I was away for 27 months, my computer sat in a box, and some things came up either missing or plain damaged. Just had to solder some of the fan controller lines, build a new 5.25 inch bay converter for the 2.5 drive, and put 3x120mm fans on a set of long bolts to increase the rear exhaust fan's flow without using that one really noisy fan.
    Why does there always have to be one really noisy fan?

  19. I woke up today with a muscle knot from hell in my left shoulder near my neck. I can neither hold my head level on it's X or Y axis (leaning left and downward atm). I have an interview in 2 hours for a new job... Anybody got an idea how to quick fix this for the interview? I don't need a permafix, just something to take the edge off so I can hold my head level during.
    I've done the hot shower. No one is available to help with walking on my back in the event it is a joint issue. I've taken 800mg Ibuprofen as well.

    In about an hour and a half I won't need this anymore, because I'll be out the door.. But I'm sure somebody will be interested in the suggested muscle pain relievers down the road.

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