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About TheyCallMeGunny

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  1. Project is on hold as I came up with a good concept but lack the materials for now. Gotta wait until payday and do a bit of research on it before I go spending more money.
  2. Sorry, only plastic phones. Although most of their heat dissipates through the glass anyways, which is why I just place this on the screen. Although I will say this sits almost full time on my router, which has a weird, gel-ish body that holds most of it's heat. I have noticed the surface is cold to the touch but lack any hardware to do an accurate testing of it's efficacy.
  3. So I got bore. (The start of many a dangerous statement in my life.) Decided to make a portable heatsink. Teflon Tape prevents scratching and conducts heat relatively well. So I soldered a USB cable to a PWM splitter, throw dual 120mm fans on a Hyper 212+... And put it on an iPod shuffle. Thought you guys could use your daily laugh. PS- Yeah, you can use teflon tape for a portable heatsink. Keeps glass safe snf transfers heat. No joke, good for phones and random devices that get too hot. But mostly good for boredom.
  4. This is more about wanting to do something exciting than the efficiency. I have an AIO for my CPU (Captain 240). But for my GPU, seeing as I'm upgrading it next month, I'd like this to be an "experiment" to satisfy my own curiosity of the possibility and efficacy of the project, as well I'm sure some people on YouTube would like to know if this is even remotely feasible. I'm doing this for fun really.
  5. First, I'd like to thank you for your response, however this won't fit the bill. Video to explain a little better what I need and why: https://youtu.be/5ZQQ_VGBqso
  6. Sorry for bump, not sure how to edit post on mobile. In case you're curious, I cut the acrylic to precision with a heatgun. I got the heatsink hot as hell and just pushed the acrylic into the heatsink. It cut a thousand little sheets perfectly. Dipped it in a bucket of ice water and the acrylic popped right out of the fins, no residue whatsoever. Nice trick to save days of cutting.
  7. I've gotten mod crazy this week. All my pent up neediness for the last 10 years have come out in a slew of ridiculous mods. I am now attempting something dangerous: turning my GPU air cooler into fins for a water block. I'm building an acrylic encasement that will be sealed in between the individual fins of the heatsink, with channels to ensure it utilizes all possible surface space. I have only one question: Which type of adhesive is best to seal the acrylic with? It must meet several conditions: 1- it must be waterproof. 2- it must be able to bond to metal and acrylic, particularly on smooth surfaces. 3- it must be able to tolerate heat, as this Is acrylic water block. 4- it must be viscous enough to apply with precision: I'm basically using a can of old brushes from painting ceramics for the finer areas here. Before I finish, I am fully aware of all the dangers. Yes, I am new to custom PC mods, with only experience doing minor things involving little to no fabrication. But I have almost 20 years of experience with fabrication in areas other than computing. In the end, if I fry my PC it is my fault and mine alone. I'm fine with that. I'm modding it instead of using it because I find the work highly enjoyable. So, anyone know of a good adhesive for this job? I have the entire thing laid out and ready, just don't want to waste all these cuts by using the wrong glue. Thanks In advance. Will post video of the project if all goes well.
  8. I have an NZXT Phantom. I've already started the painting process in an isolated structure, doing all the right things. But I have a question regarding an image transfer: Are any of these methods viable ways to apply an image to the side panel after the final color coat layer and before the clear coat? The methods I know of (simplified for brevity) are: 1- Inkjet printing to aluminum flashing. If using this method, I would "frame" the flashing in to hide borders. 2- Wax paper toner transfers. 3- Solvent based toner transfers, involving "dissolving" away the medium leaving only the image. The image in question is this: The case itself is going to be primarily two-tone: Dark black and a medium-dark grey. Gunmetal Grey and a darker metallic gold. EDIT: My concern is not that it won't work, I know that any of these (save the solvent method possibly) can and would work. The question is, would the applied image be of worthwhile quality on such a finish or is this a lost venture? I'm hoping someone has tried this or has enough experience to give me an informed decision. Don't want to ruin a few days' painting with an image that throws the whole thing off.
  9. Seems I might have to. Due to family issues, $20 is harder to squeeze out than you'r think: Had to finangle quite a bit to set aside for my i7. But I guess $20 extra won't kill me. I've been checking all over and it seems nothing is getting this thing back to functionality. Well, I don't know how to close this thread, so I'll see if I can edit the title to solved or something, because it seems just buying a new one is my only option.
  10. I have to use testsigning often on Windows (bcdedit -set DRIVER_INTEGRITY_CHECKS off > bcdedit -set TESTSIGNING ON.). However, it is a major personal annoyance to have Windows display "Test Mode" on my desktop while I'm using this. Is there any way to get rid of that notification while using testsigning?
  11. Yeah I thought it was a faulty header. But so far nothing else has melted, and my iPhone (hate iPhone, but it was free lol) is plugged into my rear port now. Same one the second drive melted on. Like I said, makes no sense to me either.. Edit: I can say that it's not plugged in backwards. I'd have to drill a hole in the MB side header to even get it in backwards.
  12. I got a little off topic (told myself I wouldn't start the W10 rant lol.) Anybody have any ideas for the DVD drive? I've saved up half what I need for a 4790k and a Z79 Z97 mobo. I'd rather not have to buy a new DVD burner, too, if anyone knows a fix to this or something I haven't tried.
  13. Sadly, serious. I have no idea how the hell a driver issue (or whatever happened) could melt a flash drive. I have never even HEARD of it. And I melted 2 in a row (thought it might be my front panel port, so tried the back, melted that one too.) But it hasn't happened before or since, so the only common factor of both occurrences was I had Windows 10 installed. (And both drives are of identical type, except for the capacity of the drives.) Edit: Down the rabbit hole;
  14. Might be, but I'm really hating on Windows 10 after all it put me through. Wait, uploading a photo of another issue that would help indicate W10 could be the issue. Okay, attached image. W10 also melted my flash drive.. I have a drive plugged in right now, and it's not metling.. So yeah, W10 had a major fit for me. I actually haven't heard of anyone else getting as much flak from it as I did. The rant would take several days to complete, so I won't. But THIS is why I had to install 7 from a Hard Drive, because when I plugged in my flash drive, it said device malfunctioned in about 2 seconds.. And a minute later, I noticed it had melted. I had put the W7 USB installer on it before upgrading, so I know it worked prior to W10. As you can see, my Z drive is now STAYING as an installer because I have to plan for if I need to reinstall and can't use the DVD.
  15. I did look for an OBS thread, couldn't find any. Thought there would be one, so if there is please be nice in correcting me lol. Alright, so I have some custom settings for OBS that seem made just for twitch. I was given these settings by a partnered friend, and then given them by another partnered friend at another time (so they must be the unofficial 'standard'.) Figured I'd share them with you guys, as well: In case you don't want to download the file, I'll also post them in spoiler: OBS custom.txt
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