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About RedFury77

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  • Birthday 01/30/1978

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    Big Bear Lake, CA
  1. screwed around with it a lot, reinstalled drivers etc. I can get the front jack to work if I switch it over to AC97 instead of HD. Then I have to manually switch between front and back outputs. Also the settings are set to the opposite of what happens regarding muting one or playing both. Meaning I have to set it to "play both front and rear simultaneously" for it to play just one, and if I select "mute rear when front is plugged in" then both play. WTF. Yes I am running win10. I have tried booting with the front connected and not connected. It used to work as advertised, start it however and then it defaults to the front if plugged in at anytime. In the realtek panel, the front mic is active but the headphone jack is grayed out. When I switched to ac97 the green headphone jack becomes active again. Regarding the playback device question, it works like that with ac97, you can select the playback device (speakers or 2nd device) but have to switch manually, unlike before.
  2. I have had this case, a NZXT S340, for just one year now and the front panel audio connection just died. The microphone is still working but not the audio output for headphones. Fine one day and not the next. No notices of any sort in windows, just doesn't see anything plugged in. Tried the rear connection and that is fine. Tried reinstalling the mobo audio drivers, nada. Tried a different set of headphones, nada. Checked the plug to the mobo, just fine, unplugged and re-seated for good measure, nada. I can hear a bit of static when I plug in, pretty normal, and even when l move the connection around, but I don't get any audio output. What can I do?
  3. I was very lucky to win a new MSI B150M Mortar motherboard and have finally built a nice system with it. Thanks Bosco and MSI! I bought some new stuff and was able to reuse some stuff out of the attic , here's the list: Mobo: MSI B150M CPU: Intel i5-6500 - new Cooler: prolimatech panther Ram: 8gb (2x4gb) Ballistix ddr4-2400 -new SSD: OCZ 120gb Vertex 3 HDD: 1 TB WD blue - new PSU: EVGA 700 B1 - new GPU: MSI GTX560TI Case: Cougar Evo I built this for work, I do work with Bobcad/cam modeling and cnc posting, as well as picture edits etc. So far pretty sweet!! A very nice upgrade indeed. I'll get a picture posted up here eventually, it's kinda funny looking at work with all the colored lights from my old build.
  4. The two times I tried to dual boot with win10 on a drive with something else, win10 takes over and you can't load the other system. It works fine for me if multiple drives are used, I had win10 on one and xp and win7 on another, that works fine.
  5. Sorry I missed this topic earlier, but I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year! Plus I saw on Nvidia's home page today a countdown for some bid reveal at CES2017. ??? http://www.nvidia.com/page/home.html AI or what?
  6. still liking this qnix 2560x1440 with an extra side screen:1280x1024. I think of going to the ultra wide setup...
  7. I'm digging the corsair lineup. I don't really see the difference between the stafe and k70 lines except the k70 has the audio volume wheel that I really like on the g510 i have now. K70 looks like a winner.
  8. Although the overall reviews are great, there are several recent that talk about problems and durability. It looks like you can't get the "ultimate" in rgb lighting, that goes to the chroma line, and the chroma line doesn't have the stealth keys, just clicky. hmmmm
  9. Price isn't much of an issue, just want a good mechanical. The razer looks good, less macros than the g510 but more than I use. I like the full size number pad too. Wired is just fine as mine is wired now and not a problem. Even my g700 mouse is usually plugged in. I'll take a closer look at that Razer.
  10. I'd like to get a new keyboard to replace my old logitech g510. I was looking a while back and ordered up the little mechanical key sample thing and will have to take another look at it to see what keys feel good to me. But I'd like to get a couple suggestions of keyboards to get me started, any ideas?
  11. I haven't been following the new releases, but really a 970 to a 1060? In previous releases wouldn't that be pretty much an even swap? My 970 is still doing good too, I've been able to resist the upgrade urges. I hope to hold out for the 1180 or something like that in the future and re-purpose this 970 to my work pc.
  12. Resetting the bios may have switched the boot settings back to legacy instead of UEFI, or the other way around.
  13. I don't know why I thought I saw $200...derp. If that is the gigabyte mobo, it's supposed to have pretty badass sound, with plenty of ports too.
  14. I would get a SSD and a new HDD too. Those green WD drives are fine for archives and backups but were never really intended as main pc hard drives. I have the Crucial MX200 500gb ssd https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_2_9?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=mx200+crucial&sprefix=mx200+cru%2Caps%2C231 and a seagate 3tb hdd https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRLY/ref=twister_B01IK59EIA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I've been really happy with changing over to seagate. Western digital has changed things and now even their "blue" drives are sometimes only 5400rpm, whereas the seagate drives are 7200rpm. If you want a good WD drive you need the "black" line. You can get a 240gb ssd plus a new 3tb hdd cheaper than that hybrid drive you linked. Moving folders for docs, pics, etc is super easy and I add a folder for program files and program files (x86) too just to make adding games and programs to the hdd real easy.
  15. Your win8 key is tied to your mobo. So when you do an upgrade to win10 with the same hardware all is cool. After activating win10 you can then do a clean install and windows will automatically activate using your mobo serial number or whatever. (supposedly you can skip the upgrade and do a fresh clean install using a win7 or win8 key now, but I haven't tried it. But I have now done 4 free upgrades to win10, then followed with a fresh install. SO, if you change your mobo and then do a fresh install....no free windows 10. It sees the new mobo as a new system. What I think you can do is install win8 first, activate, then upgrade to win10. I'm not sure with win8 but my win7 OEM disk was good for 3 fresh installs ( I think, I know I at the very least used it twice with no issues, maybe three times). This was my personal pc and was the same box but with new parts, like what you are doing. When I changed out the mobo on my work pc, had a gimped hp mobo with only two sata ports, to the retail version with 4 ports, windows 10 unactivated. I called microsoft and their suggestion was to reinstall 7 or whatever disk I owned and redo the upgrade process. Actually I never went any further with that one and just used a pci-sata card I had instead of reinstalling everything all over again. Anyway, in short, try reinstalling win8 first, make sure it activates and then do the win 10 upgrade, then a fresh install. Only way to be sure. Good luck.
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