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Everything posted by Audiophyle

  1. The case is a cheap Sunbeam Evo, it looks a lot like one of the Coolermasters but is smaller and the USB/audio plugs are on the side vs the top. It's def a cheap case, but looks great & works just fine. I chopped a huge hole in the top for the 360mm rad, didn't even think twice considering how cheap the case is. Lol Took me a while to get all the parts I needed due to a pretty tight budget (too many expensive hobbies already) but I'm happy with it. Nothing extreme, but it should handle everything I plan to ever throw at it. Couple questions I still have are about the pump & rad fans. I don't have a controller for them but have the pump hooked to the psu so it runs full power all the time, and I have the fans connected to the mobo so I can keep them turned down until I need the airflow. Does this sound about right? How important is a dedicated controller for the fans & pump besides the obvious convenience of adjusting?
  2. I finally finished my first "real" WC setup, and I think it came out pretty great so I thought Id share. Plumbed Up & running Only surprise so far was the temps in Rivatuner for the GPU, which had CPU 1 at 3200*F and CPU 2 at a more reasonable 930*F. lol Catalyst shows a more believable 127*F & 120*F temps on the GPU, but I cannot figure out why RT is not working when its usually great. Temps on the CPU are pretty much the same compared to the CoolIT I had, but the GPU temps are already 25~30* cooler which is what I was really after, and of course getting rid of that stupid loud fan on the stock 4870x2 cooler.
  3. Good to know, thanks. I wondered if the 2 meters of line would be enough, adding more to the order.
  4. Setup is in my sig, but I am planning to replace the Coolit system & add in GPU cooling. I recently picked up a 4870x2 & a DD water block, and cannot wait to get this card's temps under control. (its a hot mofo) The kit I am looking at is the Ek H30 Sup LT 360 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14543/ex-wat-184/Ek_H30_Supreme_LT_360_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_LT_360_EN.html I wanted to get into a good starter setup that I could add in a GPU loop to. My main concern is if the one 360mm radiator will be enough for cooling the 4870x2 & Phenom x6, mostly because the GPU runs hot as hell with stock air cooler. CPU temps are easily kept under 100f under extensive load, and peaked at 104F running Prime95 for 3 days straight. GPU while gaming nears 200f quickly unless I crank the fan speed to ear splitting levels, and its very annoying. So will the 360mm rad be sufficient to cool both GPU & CPU? Or should I look into adding a second rad? Next question is component orientation within the loop. I figured it would go something like this Res --> Pump --> CPU --> GPU --> Rad --> Res I would rather have the 100f water hit the GPU vs 200f water hit the CPU, but either case still involves pushing already heated water into another component. Another idea I had was possibly like this Res --> Pump --> GPU --> Rad --> CPU --> Res I though perhaps this layout would give the GPU cool water so output temps would be better, then the rad would cool that down so the CPU would also get cool water. With the CPU putting out less heat & getting cool water input, its output temps could be low enough for the res to disperse heat & cool a little before it gets pumped back into the GPU. I keep thinking I need to throw in a second rad, and if I do Id opt for the 240mm Ek kit instead of 360mm. Then I would run a setup like this Res --> Pump --> CPU --> 120mm Rad --> GPU --> 240mm Rad --> Res Thoughts? The 120mm with the Eco Coolit does a great job with my CPU now, but having a second Rad does further complicate and add lines to the system where I'd prefer to stick with the KISS approach. & lastly, is there anything I may have overlooked? Or feedback/experience from others with an Ek kit?
  5. El_Capitan's guide as well as a guide by Dolk on Overclockers.com have been the basis for all of the changes Ive made to my system. I have not implemented PhenomMsrTweaker yet, but plan to over winter break. I do not recall anything talking about the changes in CPU speed vs NB/HT Link changes but I will re-read the thread again. All settings have been adjusted in BIOS exactly as El_Capitan explains in his guide, and those settings have been saved to a default so I can easily get back to them without having to memorize everything.
  6. Still quite new to OC'ing, but this has me really confused. Ive been running a 1090t at 201x18.5 (3.718) with the CPU-NB ratio & HT-Link at default (x10) and stock voltages. I recently up'd the voltages a bit, and changed settings to 201x19 (3.819?) and the CPU-NB & HT-Link to x11 (both should match, right?), I also bumped voltages up just a hair, figured it wouldnt hurt. (CPU= 1.320v, CPU-NB=1.156 which was the highest "safe" value MSI board claims, HT Link=1.300v) All other voltages are at stock settings. I have been using Revit to render school projects for testing stability because its very picky, any slight issue or glitch can cause the rendering to abort, even though the system remains running smoothly. I notice with the increased settings CPU monitor is actually reporting a CPU speed of 3.472ghz when the BIOS states 3.81ghz, which I find very strange. It has always been correct up to this point, with the only new variable being the NB multiplier change & slight voltage increases. Also tried setting the CPU-NB & HT-Link to x12 & CPU monitor states 3.5ghz CPU speed when the CPU mult had not changed, just NB ratio & HT link. However, if I go back & set the CPU to 200x19 (vs 201x19) & leave everything else the same (x12's), CPU monitor reports back with a correct 3.8ghz CPU speed, BUT if I set it to 200x19 & NB/HT link back to x11 mult CPU monitor now reports a 4.145ghz CPU speed which is obviously not correct. My project render times are as follows, set to low detail. (used for real world performance testing) 6min 45sec @ stock 3.2ghz 5min 23sec @ 3.718 ghz (201x18.5, x10) 5min 25sec @ 3.472ghz (201x19, x11) [email protected] 3.8ghz (200x19, x12) Aborted due to instability 5min 08sec @ "4.145ghz" (200x19, x11) Anyone have any ideas why this would be? Its fun seeing the 4.145ghz CPU speed, but I know its not real. (or is it?) Also, any advice on voltages would be welcomed. Still trying to get a grasp on how to dial them in properly & safely.
  7. Talk about a quick response, 3 minutes on a 6mo old thread? Ive been trying to find a solid list of stock voltages for a little while now, so this is an awesome find. I found after a bios update the OC genie doesnt work & asks to reinstall bios every time, lol. Figured Id ask, incase it may interfere here too.
  8. Ctrl+D for a thread worth saving! Same CPU & Mobo Im running, cant get any more helpful. Couple quick questions if I may, FSB/DRAM set to 1:4, is this because you were using 1600mhz RAM at the time? Or should everyone be using this setting? (I have 1333 ram) & what BIOS version are/were you running at that time? <-------- (Noob, sorry)
  9. The aluminum frame would provide a uniform force along the edges, and with a small rubber gasket should be a very tight fit. With the topper & base panel notched like the framing, each panel would have a constant brace along its entire edge, which would keep the 1/4" acrylic plenty stiff, much like a window mullion in a store front, or a glass shower door. Hmmn, that gives me an idea where to look for possible channeling...... I could use screws/bolts every few inches, but that is a lot of extra work drilling/taping (especially ever taking a panel back off) & wont look as sleek as I'm envisioning, whereas a compression fit I could leave the face gasket-less & have 4 bolts to pop the top & the entire face (or faces) could easily slide out. Problem with the Sunbeam is an entire 15"~22" edge is reliant solely on 2 screws placed at the very ends of each edge. The only thing less structural than that would be 1 screw, and if they had added another screw to each midpoint it would have been a million times stronger. Good point on the usb/esata, etc plugs, I noticed many of the fancy fan controller units also provided such connections. Would still need to find an elegant momentary push button for the power & reset, but that shouldnt be too difficult. Another quick question regarding GPUs & cooling, I assume the upper end boards are the same height as mid-level boards (protrusion from motherboard PCI socket), but how much room would an aftermarket air cooler add to such a card? Are there instances where such coolers have contacted (or come close) to the side panel of traditional PC cases? Thanks for all the ideas people, & keep them coming!
  10. Structure will be very simple, I figure a notched 3/4" acrylic base with a similar top plate, and they will sandwich the 4 side walls while the aluminum channel forms it up. It should require very little lateral bracing, but there will be some of course. Any links where I can find pictures of this case you speak of? The HDD bays may be promising, I will have to look into that a little more, thanks for the link. Ill hold off on the WC setup then, cross that bridge when I get to it. lol As for the 12" of GPU space, you are talking about 12" from the mobo end where the connection panels are (ie DVI/VGA/HDMI plugs are located) across the board & slightly past the opposite end of the mobo, right? Basically needing 1" to 2" of space between end of mobo & drive bays? My MSI mobo has side plug Sata sockets, so I had planed on a space 12.5" for the mobo to give adequate room for Sata plugs because now even 90* plugs dont fit in the UFO case without slightly bending the plexi panel.
  11. & great thoughts at that. My "mission critical" files or anything I care about are backed up regularly between a second storage HDD & a laptop. Most of the programs I use frequently have autosave features & backup features that update quite regularly, so I do feel I have the risk as minimalized as possible. Biggest setback Im worried about is setting it to render a model, and coming back the next day to find it had crashed sometime. Many model renderings can take over 6 hours to finish, Ive had one take an entire day once, nearing a deadline a setback like that can cause hair loss but a risk Im willing to take. lol I am also not planning to push the system to the moon, but any free performance I can squeeze out the better right? (isnt that why we are all here in the first place?) Further reinforcing my choice on joining up here, this place is awesome.
  12. I currently have a Sunbeam UFO acrylic case, which leaves a bit to be desired. I needed something on the small side so I could get it off the ground since my son (19mo old) had discovered the power button on my HAF 922. The case lends itself well to being on the desk, & I do rather enjoy seeing all the wonderful parts inside the computer, however there are a lot of slight changes that could have been made that would have made this case a much bigger hit. Maybe its the Arch student in me, but I want to design my own case to get exactly what I am after. My goal is showcase looks, optimize cooling potential, wiring ability (ie neatness), sized as compact as possible, and have it setup to not just fit on a desk but actually look like it belongs there. I plan to build 90% of the case out of acrylic and with aluminum framing because I despise how squeaky & loose the UFO case is. I have access to a CNC machine as well as a laser cutter, so this thing should come out sick. This will most definitely be a trial & error kind of process, so there may be a couple extra cases along the way for any interested parties. lol All that said it will also be a very long & slow process due to graduate school kicking my butt, so by all means please toss up any cool ideas. Desired Input I am looking for an aluminum channel for the case framing. There is this case on ebay, http://www.lcdmodkit.com/images/case/c0aa-s1/top.jpg which uses an aluminum piece for the small vertical edges which is exactly what I am looking for but have yet to find anything. The closest I have found looks like this http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/004/151/368/290/4151857_75368_290.jpg but it is actually a structural component of considerable size, and much too large of a scale for what I am after. What I need is something very similar with the circular shaft in the center but have much less material involved, much like the mini-itx case on ebay. I have been searching all over online & cant find anything, hoping somebody on here may know of something or even have a connection for getting some. I am looking for recommendations to a place I can order semi-bulk quantities of small machined screws, nuts, etc of various lengths I can use as case fasteners. Local shops do not carry anything small enough, and a couple PC stores I stopped by didnt have much other than traditional sized screws which I will need to be longer. I am also unsure of the common thread sizes of PC cases, so a little verification would be great too. I am looking for ideas on where to find a quality/cool I/O front panel, which can be anything from a prefab unit to all loose components for building my very own panel. I want to have it all, power & reset buttons, headphone & mic plugs, USB & E-sata plugs, and of course status LEDs (which will be the easiest part, lol) Ive been a mobile electronics installer & fabricator for over a decade now, so Ive got a pretty cool bag of tricks Lastly, I could use some feedback on what others think are important in a good case. It will be full ATX compatible, and accept a very large GPU (will need measurements from hardcore gamers, as I only have a Radeon 5670 for now). I plan to leave space for a standard sized PSU, 1 disk drive, and 2 3.5" HDDs. Ive never done a real liquid setup (mine is sealed) but want to have enough space & adaptability to upgrade to it later on. A few of the ideas Ive been sketching could accommodate more HDDs fairly easily, and Ive even considered eliminating the disk drive. I rarely if ever use one anyway. So thanks in advance, & I look forward to hearing some cool ideas.
  13. Blue Panda, you have a link by chance for the mod to your CPU cooler? Still feel the need to learn more about voltages before I start tweaking any of it, but my eyes are always on the temps. I render a lot with 3DS Max & Revit from Autodesk, neither of which put any load on the GPU except for when Im working in a 3d view but rendering lights up all 6 cores to 100% for several hours at a time. I use All CPU meter as a gadget with core temp & a GPU monitor to keep an eye on things constantly.
  14. Thats what Im hoping. Right now it maxes out at 115F at 3.7ghz while rendering with all 6 cores at 100% for a couple hours. Plenty of cooling still available since the max temp is 143F for this CPU. At 3.8 it crashes randomly, which I believe to be voltage related (ie not enough). I believe by turning up the power a bit more I can drive the CPU mult up a bit higher too, Ill be plenty happy to break 4ghz with it.
  15. I am an Architectural graduate student, and my current computer build is mainly for 3d modeling, rendering, CAD work, and the occasional power gaming. lol System is comprised of the following: Phenom II 1090T x6 MSI 890fxa-gd70 mobo Eco Coolit sealed liquid cooling system 16GB Mushkin silverline 1333 ddr3 ram Gigabyte Radeon HD 5670 WD Black 750gb HDD w/ 32mb cache Thermaltake 850w PSU I am completely new to computer building, this was my first and 6 months of online research helped me build the system above within my budget. I feel it is a great start, lol. I have been running the setup for about 8 months now, and have just started pushing things. Right now I have the 1090T running 3.718ghz & the GPU OC'd to 880mhz (from 790), so far both have been pretty stable and I have not touched any voltage settings and temps are all well within reason. Looking forward to learning more about stable OC'ing, as I need this PC to render models as fast as possible & as stable as possible, because a crash could set my work progress back by hours if not days.
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