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crash

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Everything posted by crash

  1. crash

    Arctic Cooler Question

    Another good util for finding max core/mem is ati tool. It will render a fuzzy square thing and slowly raise the mem or core speeds, (whichever you select first,) and scan the image for artifacts! It also stops raising every 5mhz and goes into a heat up phase to stress the card and make sure it won't make artifacts. Workd good! B)
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    Wuxat.exe - What Is This?

    Yeah, I did have sasser when it first came out, I started noticing it's effects even before AVG had a fix for it. The third day AVG updated and found it. Since then I've used Stinger and updated windows to get rid of it. I think that this wuxat may be a leftover or something
  3. crash

    Stupid Torjan File

    Make sure your system restore is turned off
  4. Try ram idle, just google for it or www.downloads.com. Also Tweak XP pro has a feature for this - also will force windows to unload unused dll's from memory Also go through your startup in msconfig and de-select anything you don't use. You can do the same in the services tab
  5. crash

    Need A New Psu

    I have a TT silent purepower 480, it's great power wise but I wish I'd done a bit more research before I bought it. It is very quiet on low speed but high speed sounds like a 747 winding up! If you want the best - PC power and cooling 510 - This PS is sweet. It comes pre-sleeved, it's extremely stable and I think that they now have it in a fanless model!! Midrange I would go for an antec truepower or a vantec stealth. If you do want a TT PS, I got my 480 from bluecano on ebay last year for $78CAD, I think now she has them, (and 560W) for 50 - 90US. Might be worthwhile to check out!
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    Volcano 7+

    First off you need to realize that Thermaltake products are well known as being difficult to install. There have been many cases of hearing the sickening "crack" from a cpu core during installation. So the best advice I can give is GO SLOW and DON"T FORCE anything!!! AMD users - Make sure that youinstall your hs in the correct direction, there is a notch cut out of the base to accomodate the cam box on the zif socket! 1.) First off, use an extra power connector and make sure the fan spins up properly before installation. It is uncommon to get a dead fan right off the hop but better safe than sorry. 2.)For optimum cooling you may want to lap your hs base. This is basicly ensuring it's perfectly flat and then polishing it to a shine. http://www.a1-electronics.net/Heatsinks/Lapping.shtml 3.)Apply thermal compound to your core using a thin even application and ensuring that you don't use too much and cause it to goop all over your wafer. ---place the hs on the cpu, (AMD you will have to push down to compress the foam pads) and remove it. make sure there is thermal compound on the hs base, (then you know there is good contact) remove hs again. 4.)With Thermaltake products, the best way to install the HS may be when the motherboard and backplate are removeed from the case, if you can't/don't want to to this, that's ok too. 5.)Push the side of the clip all the way up untill it reaches the top, this will cause the other side, (the side you mount first,) to move all the way down. 6.)Set the hs on the cpu so it's sitting slightly off-center towards the cam box. Gently push the clip oposite the cam box down until it clips onto the tabs on th zif socket, this may take a few tries but be patient, try moving the hs slightly if you have problems. When the clip is on, ease the hs to center. 7.)Now, while holding the hs in place, insert a flat screwdriver into the small pocket on the remaining clip and slowly pry the clip towards the cam box, (so it opens more) and gently push the clip down over the tabs. This can sometimes take quite a bit of pressure. 7.5)While doing step 7 if you hear a "cracking" sound, remove hs, remove cpu - throw it in the garbage and send a nasty email to Thermaltake! 8.) Plug in fan. If you've read this and you still feel weary about installing a TT HS, go out and buy a cpu shim - thiese will save you from step 7.5!!
  7. crash

    Farcry

    Yeah I wussed out and changed to easy mode after a half-hour of getting stomped!! Now that I think of it, why am I not playing right now? seeya
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    Wonder If It's Safe....

    I would hesitate to add bleach unless you know for sure that it won't dry out the pvc lines and make them brittle. I did hear of some guys using windshield washer fluid instead of water. Cool blue colour, no bacteria or algae and it's cheap! Never tried it myself (use air cooling) but as long as you keep it topped up it should be great!
  9. crash

    More Accurate Overcloking Tool

    Coolbits is much better. I havn't had much luck with Gigabyte's tuning utilities. Crash
  10. Palomino will only go to 1.8GhZ or something, I think.
  11. crash

    Hsf

    Yeah, be very, VERY carefull! TT products have been responsible for more cracked cores than I can count. If you havn't done this a whole lot, I would recommend using a CPU shim with any TT product. Here is the trick: 1.)If you have a removable backplate for your mobo, remove your mobo while still attached to the backplate. If not, or if you don't want to then that's ok, this can be done while still in the case but it's a little harder. 2.)Push the side of the clip that you would attach last up as far as it will go in the HS so that the other side, (the side you attach first,) is all the way down and slightly underneath the hs base. 3.)hold the hs at a slight anlge as to slip the first clips under the tabs on your ZIF socket. 4.)Pull the hs towards the cam-box of your zif socket while slowly letting the base come in contact with the core. 4.)once the hs is sitting on the core, ensure that it is straight. 5.)Using a flat screwdriver and while holding the hs in place, insert it into the socket on the clip and gently pry the clip away from the HS while pushing it down over the second set of tabs. 6.)Attach your fans power to the mobo and replace mobo in case. If you hear a cracking sound while you are doing this then remove the hs, remove your cpu, throw it away and send an angry email to TT. crash
  12. Hmm. First go through these steps: 1.) let your computer cool off overnight 2.)fire it up in the morning and go straight to your bios and check temps. If your CPU temp reads over 5 - 10C higher than your ambient temperature, your cpu temp diode is not calibrated properly. If it reads close to ambient temperature then watch it until it stops rising. This should take about 10 minutes, if it rises quicker then you may have a faulty temp sensor. 3.) If you find everything is working ok, get rid of your thermaltake HS/fan, they are for show, not performance! 4.)Get a Zalman CNPS7000A-Cu heatsink/fan. These are the best and they are quiet. Yes, thermalright and swiftech HS are great but they are LOUD and the Zalman does just as good cooling. PS REMEMBER - Most motherboard temperature readings are highly inaccurate, I've heard as low as 5C and as high as 50C above or below the correct temp. Step one and two should give you a decent idea about how much your mobo is out regarding CPU temps crash
  13. crash

    Chipset Temps

    85C is the internal fry temperature for an AMD CPU. Keep in mind that mobos measure at the surface of the die which is always about 5C cooler than the core. At 65C you will start to get erros, 55C is safe but may decrease your proc's lifespan. Anything under 50C is ok, under 45 is optimum. For you guys using a GA7N400 pro rev2, does your bios read abnormaly high temps? Mine reads 60C at idle! I know this can't be right because 1.) when I turn my system on from cold start it reads 50C, and 2.) When I run prime95 my temps rise to 69-70C, but no errors. There should be errors at that temp. 3.)My old board read 40 - 45C with the same CPU. Any ideas
  14. I got my 2800+ (new, OEM) for $120 CAD, it's unlocked. If you want a good deal on a proc. ebay! If you want to get an unlocked 2500+ buy a mobile 2500+ The reason these are all unlocked is so a laptop can clock the multiplier down to reduce power consumption/heat. They also run @ 1.83 @ 1.45v V-core! This gives you 0.20v head start on overvolting to oc!! ( standard v-core on a 2500+ is 1.65v)
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    About To Buy A Mobo

    I have a GA7N400 pro rev2 This is a kick . board ! If your going to oc youd better get an nforce board. The agp/pci lock is sweet! My last board had an sis chipset and when I oc'd I didn't have a agp lock and I almost killed my TI4800 ! This may not happen to you but it is certainly something to think about. NFORCE for sure with an Athlon XP!! If I were you I would look at boards in this order: 1.) Abit AN-7 or NF-7 - These boards are widely known as the leaders for oc'ing. You can pick one up for under $150CAD. I put this at the top of the list because the Gigabyte boards don't have mounting holes around the cpu, otherwise it would have been first because of it's long list of features http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/produc...ies=1&model=158 2.)ASUS A7N8X - E deluxe - Just as good as the ABIT http://www.asus.com/products/mb/socketa/a7...-d/overview.htm 3.)GA7NNXP or GA7N400 pro rev2 B) - The 7NNXP has MCP - T ( media and communications processor TURBO), the 7N400 pro has MCP. These both come with 2 xSATA (RAID), 2x IDE, and 2 X IDE RAID. You could attach a bazillion drives to this board - keep in mind though that the IDE RAID is not as fast as a promise based comtroller. The 7N400 can be purchased for around $100CAD, the 7NNXP is around $150 (I have a 7N400 for sale) http://www.giga-byte.com/MotherBoard/Produ...ts_GA-7NNXP.htm 4.)DFI Lanparty ULTRA 400B - B) This is by far the best of the best! It is right up there with ASUS and ABIT for oc'ing and blows EVERYTHING out of the water when it comes to features, accessories, and looks but you will PAY for this board! around $200 - $250CAD If the price had been more around $150 this would beat everything HANDS DOWN! http://www.dfi.com.tw/Product/xx_product_s...TYPE=LP&SITE=NA 5.)Soltek 75FRN2 - You can pick this board up for $79CAD, it has great features and it's a solid board, looks great, too! http://www.soltek-computer.de/soltek/produ...3%2FSL-75FRN3-L 6.)Epox EP8RDA3+ - This is a great oc'ing board but it looks crappy, and there have been problems with the quality of the board. Check around and you'll find lot's of complaints about dead or dying boards. http://www.epox.com/USA/product.asp?id=EP-8RDA3plus I hope this helps, crash
  16. Why would a mobile 2500+ not work on a GA7N400 ? The only difference between a mobile and standard barton is this: 1.)A mobile barton has been tested to work with a 1.45v V-core, (standard is 1.65) 2.) A mobile barton has an unlocked multiplier that allows a laptop to reduce the multiplier on the fly to save power and reduce heat, (standard bartons being produced now have locked multipliers) Now, both CPU's have IDENTICAL cores. There is absolutely no difference in arcitechture, (as far as I've seen.) So, if you were to pop one in your gigabyte mobo the only difference would be that the v-core would run at the standard 1.65. As far as I know, (I have a GA7N400 pro rev.2) you can only increase the v-core in your bios, not decrease it- that's ok though because compared to a standard barton, (1.85GhZ @ 1.65 v) you should be able to hit much higher clock speeds with a comparable voltage! You basicly start with a +0.20 overvolt in any case, I'm curious to hear about bigred's results crash
  17. First I would drop your multiplier down to 10 or 10.5, then increase FSB to 200 (400). You now have a 2800+ operating on a 400MhZ FSB!! I think that 10.5 actually gives you a 3000+. Also, if you have the money get rid of the 2700 ram and get yourself some pc 3700 or 4000. Even a dual channel kit of 512MB will give you a nice boost over your Gig. I know that's not about "settings" but it's just an idea crash
  18. crash

    9800pro Users Help Me

    I only have a 9700 pro, but I use ATI tuner, seems to be the best IMO. One nice thing about it is that it will find your max clock speeds for you by gradualy increasing the clock speed and searching a rendered image for artifacts. Works great. BTW, if you want to overclock, I would recomend against a Zalman HP. Check out an arctic cooling VGA silencer rev 3 crash
  19. Right now I have three SCSI drives: one for my OS, one for my games and one for my bulk storage. They are all 10,000rpm drives. Because my OS drive has super fast seek times, (windows XP is always looking for little files here and there,) <2.9ms, Windows applications tend to run quite a bit faster than when I was running PATA drives. Also, because my SCSI controller handles most or all of the proccessing for the HDDs', anytime I do a HD intensive action my overall system performance is hardly affected. As for SATA, if you are dead set on Raptors, RAID will only really help when moving large files. If you do lots of video editing or something then RAID will be very benificial to you. However, you must remember that in a RAID setup sometimes your seek times can increase and slow overall performance down, (striped RAID not mirror.) If you want your OS to be the fastest it can be and you don't mind a little more hardware, pick up a 18 GB 10,000RMP SCSI drive and run your os off of that. They're cheap and it will free up quite a bit of CPU cycles, seek times will be sweet, XP will love you. This can be a good alternitive to spending $350 x 2 for Raptors. I don't think raptors even have NCQ, (native command queing - hard drive is smart enough to prioritize instructions to increase speed, part of the reason SCSI is so fast,) wheras Seagate 7200.7 does - this is also one of the quietest drives in the world, 2 x 80GB in a raid array would be the fastest, in this case. You'll also save about $250. crash
  20. I recently upgraded my board from an Asrock K7S8X to a Gigabyte GA-7N400 Pro Rev.2, and my ram from mismatched crappy 2100 to dual channel OCZ 3200. After my hardware changes I did a fresh install of Windows, (only to have the stupid activation thingy bite me in the .,) fresh drivers, ect. When I first fired it up my multiplier was set at 11x ( I think,) because the board was set to xxxxxx instead of oooooo on my multiplier switch, (all off instead of all on.) I didn't notice that the factory had set them backwards from the way the manual said they would be and without thinking, (or locking my AGP first,) I upped the FSB to 166, (333) to get my 1754MhZ or whatever it was for my 2100+. Things seemed to run okay untill I went to bench my new rig. 3D Mark 2001SE was instant artifacts. My card was acting like I was hitting it with a tiger torch while I was benching. Stock speed for this card is 297/650, but I can only run a complete bench with no artifacts at 277/626!!! CRAP!! This only gives me 12,000 3D Marks, it's embarrasing! I never had any probs with this card in my old sys even at 322/697!! I have since set my multiplier at 13.0 FSB 133(266) and locked my AGP @ 66MhZ. So, I've tried: 1)Roll back video driver, 43.03 2)Roll back bios revision, (mobo) tried 1 thru 7 3)Check for adequet cooling 4)Check frequency settings 5)re-seat card 6)Windows update NO AVAIL!! Please anyone with suggestions HELP! My only conclusion is that by being a dumb-. and not double checking my settings before I fired this rig up I have degraded my ram by burning out some transistors. PS, for all you ATI freaks out there I should let you know that this card only cost me $90 CAD when I bought it, and my new 9700 Pro is on it's way as we speak. Yes I realize now that Nvidia had become lazy and ATI is the way to go, (Until the FX6800 hits the streets!)
  21. I've bought two copies of mandrake now, ( I thought the first one was bad or something) and I can't get past the first screen after the "Press F1 for help or ENTER to install" screen. The Alt F1 screen just sits there doing nothing. One time I was playing around in the command line screen and somehow got it to look for the cd-rom again. Then I went back to the ALTF1 screen and there was a small window in the middle of the screen that said something along the lines of "Trying to access Lite-on cdrom" and then "trying to access JLMS .... DVD" I noticed that in the Kernel messenger it keeps writing something about an interupt request being lost or something like that. Can anyone help? I'm on the verge of "Windows Sucks" and I would like to learn Linux ASAP THX
  22. crash

    Whats Are Good Round Ata 133 Cables?

    Vantec are great ebay ebay ebay
  23. crash

    3DMark 01 Scores

    10,160 - with my old system! - Asrock K7S8X w/ AMD TB 2100+ @ 1853 786MB PC 2100 DDR GF4 TI 4800 @ 312/685 Will have new system bench soon
  24. crash

    How Do Tiny Cool Their Pcs

    If you don't wan't to go with a water cooling rig or have a loud pc, (assuming you've already cleaned the inside of your case up with round cables ect for max air flow,) you could always, (Uggh!) clock your processor down . If you go say 100 MhZ or so you could probably drop a few degrees. Just remember that all proc. are not created equal. When they threw your's into the 2400+_ pile it may have been very close to the max for a 2400, therfore it will always run a little hotter than say a processor that was put in the 2200+ pile but was efficient enough to run @ 2400+
  25. I have a system with an Athlon XP 2100+ on an Asrock K7S8X mobo. I have successfuly oc'd to 153 X 13 for 1949 MhZ. I want to go higher but I need to bump up my v-core. My bios doesn't allow for me to change the v-core. Is there any other way to do it?
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