Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About LuckyDeath

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Somewhere down in Texas
  • Interests
    Basketball, Molecular Biology, and anything tech related.


  • Steam


  • Computer Specs
    CPU: Core i5-2500k
    Motherboard: Asus P8P67 Pro
    RAM: G. Skill Ripjaws X 1600MHz 8GB (2x4GB)
    PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer MK II 750w
    GPU: ATI Radeon HD5870 x 2 CFX
    Drive 1: OCZ Agility 2 90GB
    Drive 2: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
    Keyboard: Logitech G510
    Mouse: Razer Deathadder 3500
    Sound: Logitech Z313 2.1 Speakers
  1. It's definitely puzzling. Oh well... just paid for my R7 290X upgrade...and dinner! If anyone has an Eyefinity card lying around, might be a chance to cash in!
  2. Hey I'm not angry about the money, but that is more than I paid for the card... in 2011. I was more worried if there was some kind of payment scam out there... http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=sapphire+eyefinity&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsapphire+5870+eyefinity&_nkw=sapphire+5870+eyefinity&_sacat=0 Notice how they are all bidding over $200. There is one with a buyout of $600. That is more than eBay inflation, anyone could easily Google this card and see that it is old (no longer in production). Also notice how the 1GB version is sitting at $29.00 with zero bids. I got nothin'... just crazy.
  3. Does anyone know why the Sapphire Eyefinity 2GB HD5870's are going for so much on eBay? I had one that I couldn't sell on this site for $50, but I put it on eBay and it is now bidding over $200 with a week left. I was suspicious at first, but I checked around eBay and it seems all the Eyefinity editions are going for close to the same price. The regular 1GB reference cards are not. I know that the 2GB of memory is not THAT helpful... certainly not enough to increase it's value by 4x's. I also don't think Eyefinity is the reason, as you can find cheaper newer cards capable of large multimonitor setups. The only thing I could guess was this had something to do with bitcoin mining or the fact that Apple sold OEM versions of the 5870 as upgrades for Mac Pro users back in 2010/2011. For people who want to upgrade their old Macs, I think they have to use that card. But it is not the same as the Sapphire Eyfinity I don't think, even though both can connect 6 monitors. Anyways, I am just really curious what is going on here... anyone have any ideas?
  4. Updated OP: all items have been sold except the Kuhler 920 cooling unit. Make me an offer.
  5. When I ran the 2GB as a single card, yes I did overclock it. I used Sapphire TRIXX or MSI Kombustor software and I was able to game with it pushed as high as I could. Of course, I also had to keep the fan profile really high to keep up and that thing could get pretty damn loud. I never overclocked it after I moved it to a XF with the 2nd 5870.
  6. Newegg had the Corsair Force LX 256GB drive on Labor Day sale yesterday for $95 after MIR... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233682 I jumped on it.
  7. Any recommendations with reliability being a major factor? I've had issues in the past with SSD's not being able to go into sleep mode, or just outright dying out of nowhere.
  8. I have a sale pending on the 1GB 5870. The CPU+Mobo is in negotiations, so if you want to put in an offer now would be the time. Also I am dropping the price a bit on the 2GB to more closely match market demand.
  9. I built this rig back in 2010 and it has been solid... except for the crap OCZ Agility SSD that finally died. I have decided it's a good time to start over, so I am parting out all the (fully functional) pieces I won't need anymore. I'll be keeping the PSU, RAM, & case for my next build. Pics available on request. 1) Sapphire Radeon ATI 5870 2GB (Eyefinity 6 Edition)- I bought this brand new in 2010 and have been running it in X-fire with a 2nd 5870 (see below) since 2011. Great card, and in X-fire I still play many newer games on high settings. 2) AMD Radeon 5870 1GB - Bought used in 2011 and has been running stable every day since then. 3) Asus P67 Pro + Intel Core i5-2500K.- The motherboard was bought brand new in 2011, and I have been able to push this CPU up to 4.8GHz with it (using an Antec Kuhler 920 liquid cooling unit). The mobo also includes USB 3.0, headers and 8x/8x speeds in SLI/XFire. The CPU was bought brand new in 2010, and it has been 100% stable. This CPU is a quad core, overclockable, and is a great CPU for a mid-range gaming system. I haven't had any bottlenecks with this processor. 4) Antec Kuhler 920 Liquid Cooling unit: comes with all mounting hardware, two fans for push/pull configuration, and disc for Antec ChillControl software to monitor temps and change fan speed profiles). Asking for $65 $45 OBO I have done business with several OCC members in the past... though the last couple years I've been focusing on my new kid and Android vs my old overclocking hobby, I still lurk here and read reviews from time to time. I don't sell a ton of items, but when I do, I try to make it a positive experience: Link to my HeatWare: http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=75969 My eBay: http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=texasex7&ftab=AllFeedback
  10. If you need that kind of battery life you have a couple options- 1) Turn off sync (push email, etc.) and when browsing internet/streaming use Wi-Fi instead of 3G, and no GPS/Bluetooth. If you have the screen on for less than 2 hours total, you can expect at least 12 hours a charge running stock Jellybean OS. 2) You can help your battery life out quite a bit by rooting it and running a custom ROM (such as CM10, LiquidSmooth, etc). Its super easy to do (plenty of guides/programs that will do it with the click of a mouse). I was able to increase my battery life by about 2 hours with 3G/4G enabled on my Galaxy Nexus. My phone will last for days with the screen off and no data connection turned on. 3) Buy a second battery. Don't do anything I mentioned previously. When phone dies, put in new battery. Enjoy!
  11. Really appreciate all of the feedback. Thats why I still love to lurk this forum. Spike is correct in that cash is tight (like Mikesnow mentioned, largest purchase of my life). Got a baby on the way as well, so I'm looking to keep the financial investment to a minimum. I know that means sacrificing quality, but right now I just really want to do something about the mess in the living room corner. At the same time, I don't want to just discard all of these speakers if they are functional. The previous owners did say during negotiations that the setup is functional, but that I would need my own receiver. I think they were planning on doing their own system in their new house, and they were much more well off financially than I am so they didn't mind leaving these behind. As for a schematic, I honestly don't have any idea which wires go to which without any stereo to test them out. I have seen one outside in the backyard, two up in the corners of the living room, and I think there is one in the bedroom also. Should there be 2 wires per speaker coming out of the wall? @Waco, I figured as much about the switch-box. I didn't know I could get that kind of functionality in a moderately priced receiver or if the switch was necessary. Obviously I don't want every speaker to be on all the time. The speakers themselves look to be all Sony, the switch is the only Radio Shack piece. I don't have an old boombox, but maybe I'll ask my brother if he has one lying around that I can mutilate. Thanks for all the input... if there's anything else, feel free to let me know! I'll move ahead with trying to test these things out, and if they work I'll look at some reviews for receivers. Long term goal will be to have it all either re-wired or get a new system installed wirelessly (sounds like that will either sacrifice quality or will be expensive though, or else why do wired speakers still exist?).
  12. @ Stoner: Recall that I have no idea how to wire anything, even when its already wired for me. Re-wiring does not sound like a task I will be up to. @ AZNuguyen: If the speakers work, I'd like to use them. I currently use my TV's sound all by itself, and having some extra depth to fill the room would be nice. Considering I have nothing right now, as long as they work they are an upgrade for me (even if they're old).
  13. So my wife and I just bought our first house, and the previous owners left speakers throughout wired for us. Great, right? Except I have literally zero experience with home audio setups. Now I've got a mess of wires coming from a hole in the wall, and my wife is threatening to chop them off if I don't do something with them! See below https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XANGhMUEhHN3ZFSkU Throughout the house, there are bookshelf speakers. By the wall itself, there is a Subwoofer, some kind of audio channel switcher and a couple more bookshelf speakers. The Subwoofer: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XANGdfd1pwVUJUZkE https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XAVEtOMDFnOGtrQkk https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XATXFtUi1KdDQySjA The Audio Channel Switcher Thingy https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XASG1FWnpWVDBLZDg https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XAYnd4LURLRXNwcTQ There are also four wires coming out of the wall that aren't connected to anything. I am assuming these are wired to the bookshelf speakers throughout the house. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XAOHluMlEwRWQ5N0k https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BycY8WZch-XAZHRPa0U0WUlOSk0 So from what I have been told, I am going to need a receiver to wire all of these speakers, subwoofer, and my home theater setup. My home theater setup currently includes an X-Box 360 (connected to TV via HDMI), Blu Ray Player (connected via RGB Component), and my Uverse DVR (connected via HDMI). What I need help with is: 1) What kind of receiver do I need to buy? I'm looking to keep this affordable, as I am (obviously) not an audiophile. It doesn't need to be 3D ready or have any next-gen features. Just sound decent and be easy to use, with reliability/quality. Taking all recommendations for this! 2) Assuming these speakers all work, is this sound system at all relevant? I mean if this setup looks antiquated or from the 90's, I'd rather not waste my time in trying to keep it alive. 3) If the speakers are broken and/or are so old as to not be worth using, is it possible to just swap them out for new ones and leave the current wiring in place? Is there any new technology that would cause compatibility problems with this type of wiring? 4) From the pictures I have posted, and the information I have given, is it possible to give a semi-detailed explanation of how I would go about hooking all of this up? I would be forever indebted to you! I can certainly repay the favor for anyone who takes the time to help with this. I've got spare PC parts (i.e. Optical Drives, SATA cables, 120mm Fans) that I will happily let you pick from if you need any. Thanks for the help!
  14. Figure a 600w PSU will do the trick then, yeah? 80+ certified of course.
  • Create New...