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Everything posted by DnaAngel

  1. At this point in time, nothing really noticeable. The software driving the hardware is more important, at the point where we are at with Integrated audio. To answer your question though, the main differences are that the Formula will have a higher grade DAC (Cirrus) as opposed to the Hero's, as well as a dedicated 600ohm headphone AMP, Film Caps, Higher SNR and the Formulas's software suite will also be more tailored to the gamer than the Hero's software package. Either one will get the job done in terms of sound and the small differences shouldn't really sway buying decision. If audio is of most importance then Just stick with Hero for price and get a Xonar DX, DGX or a Creative card. I can tell you that Dolby Headphone(Xonar DX/DGX) is true gaming bliss IMO. I don't have any personal experience with the Maximus vii and vii series, other then builds for other people, but I can tell you that my Maximus V Formula suffered badly from sound dimming (don't know the technical term) when playing a game and listening to music same time. Every time there was an explosion or loud sound both the music and game sounds would "dim" during the burst noises. Hope that helped!
  2. This has probably already been solved, but I would like to add that from my experience, avoid ASRock like the plague! I have used 5 ASRock boards in my life and I had issues with every single one of them. I had one ASRock board, I think a Q45 based board if I remember right, I had to RMA it 3x to finally get one that worked! I have also had a few friends that also had issues with their ASRock boards, both of them were using Z77/Z87 and 990FX based ones. Asus and Gigabyte and about the only Motherboards I bother fooling with anymore. MSI Is hit and miss as I've found out today. Actually now that I think about it, I haven't had a single issue with a Gigabyte board in years. The lower end Asus boards can be a bit wonky at times, but their mid grade and ROG boards are ace. As far as your OP is concerned I 2nd the Asus board.
  3. Haha I wish it was everyday! I would be rocking then! Spring/Summer sees a drop in sales, but I average about 2-3 builds a week. A+, Security+, CCENT and Network+ Certified with a Bachelors in Network Administration. I tend to take it a bit personal when people make me out to be an imbecile about these things, esp when I am just asking for a heads up. Thank you, I just wanted to put it out there and ask, as RMA's are a pain and I wanted to be more sure which part to RMA out.
  4. That I haven't done. Current PSU has only been used for 1 hour in another working build that I took it out of (due to needing a stronger PSU for the upgraded GPU being installed). I checked the rails with my multimeter out of curiosity, all reading the correct voltages. I believe you guys that there are motherboards that do not beep during POST, I guess I am just old school about things and I have never personally come across one that didn't. In all honesty I rarely ever use them in my personal builds, but over the past few years of being used to the beep on the motherboards I did use mobo speakers on, not hearing a beep in addition to not getting anything on screen raises some flags to me.
  5. There is no need to laugh and be condescending about it. I was just asking for help. I have been building about 2-3 PC's a week for customers for a good 5 years now. I am not new to this by any means and when it comes to customer's PC's I make sure everything works 100% and that means making sure speaker is plugged just in case. EDIT: How would I know what the BIOS is set to, when I cannot access the BIOS because I get no splash screen. Yes, I have used different known working video cards as well as all 3 (VGA, DVI and HDMI) integrated video outputs.
  6. Because every motherboard Ive ever built with has had POST beeps indicating the health. 1 short beep means you are gold. Yes, there is no image on the monitor.
  7. Yeap. I reseated everything 2-3x, including all power connections. Currently I have it on a test bed with just mobo, CPU, RAM and PSU hooked up, everything else is not connected. Tried the single stick of ram in both RAM slots. Monitor is on, working and connected properly. A monitor turned off still wouldn't explain the no beeps.
  8. Just put together a new system and I am having weird anomalies with it. When I boot the system I get no beeps at all from the mobo speaker, Removed all drives and video devices, still no beeps. Removed the CPU and DIMMS and still no beep. I DO however get 3 long beeps with only CPU installed and no DIMMs. From my knowledge, 3 beeps mean mobo is not detecting DIMMs, but when I insert known working ones, back to no beeps at all. Also, I don't know if this helps, but every time I go to boot system, I get "Unsupport" message on my TV after the screen goes back like its about to go to splash screen. Tried HDMI, DVI and VGA all same message. I've narrowed it down to being either the Motherboard, CPU or PSU. Changed out the new RAM sticks for known working ones, PSU is brand new that ran flawlessly in a more powerful system for all of 1 hour before I upgraded its PSU and carried over to this build. Reseated CPU, checked for broken pins etc. Also, I tried a single known working stick of RAM in each of the RAM slots as well as different video cards that are known to work. What do you guys think? I am leaning towards the mobo being bad, but I don't want to count out the CPU either. MSI A55M-E35 Socket FM2/FM2+ AMD A6-6400k APU 8GB G.Skill RAM 350Watt PSU 1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD LG DvD Combo Drive
  9. There is alot more to CPU's now then just looking at the clock speed as others have noted. That variable of measurement seemed to of died with the single core CPU era. Intel is the more superior CPU, but not always the best for the budget. Case and point, if building a PC and you need the best CPU under 130$ that would be the FX 6300. If you need more horses then that, then I almost always recommend bumping up to the i5's. I personally would pretty much always take an I5 over an FX 8 core, simply due to the real world performance of the Intel architecture outweighs that of AMD's. Per core and Per clock performance of the i5's well outperform AMD's. I ve built more Intel and AMD rigs then I can shake a stick at and my Intel rigs are usually noticeably faster, more responsive and just overall smoother to operate. Not saying AMD is bad, as I said it always boils down to getting the best bang for your particular buck.
  10. I couldn't even get through the first 2 pages before I couldn't breathe..F'ing hilarious! I completely lost it on the Potato needing custom water loop to keep from becoming a french fry or the one about a dual core potato being strong enough to finally run android LMFAO!
  11. Thanks for the replies. When I said 24/7 it was just no power-offs. No Folding or mining on that PC, just school work and gaming. Yea there really is no need for a 5Ghz OC, just wanted to do it, to do it. K series CPU mind as well right? I just didn't want to be going out next week for a new CPU, for utterly no reason. To my understanding, the 3rd gen i5's are fine as long as you don't creep up past 1.45v. I have only pushed it to 4.7ghz once on 1.3 something volts. I am on a static overclock, I know that is not the best way to do it, but I never understood the other dynamic way.
  12. Haven't posted here in quite some time, figured I would ask a nagging question to clean some cobwebs.. I have a PC that I have been using for an Pseudo-workstation and was curious as to the lifespan of an overlocked i5. Currently I have it at 4.4ghz @ 1.21v. Would love to get it to 5Ghz 24/7, but some of the research I did had people pushing 1.37-1.41v to get that. My question is would running it at say 1.4v 24/7 "fixed" kill the lifespan of this thing? As long as I can get 3 years out of it, I would be happy with that. Running the Xigmatek Dark Knight II cooler. at 1.31v 4.7ghz I only touched into the mid-upper 60's temp wise (Celsius), CPU Coolers fan was only at around 65~% speed. So long as I keep the temps in check, should I be fine for that level of OC? If so what max temps should I be cautious of? Asus Maximus V Formula I5 3570k G.Skill DDR3 2200 Mhz Asus DirectCU II GTX 660Ti @ 1264 Mhz Boost
  13. Now im even more curious as to what nvidia will bring to the table performance wise with their gk110 7xx series. Surely they wouldn't want to outshine the Titan?
  14. ......no Keep the case. If you want some beast overclocking, go with a full water cooling loop. Sorry I didn't see his case listed at first. Agreed, keep your current case. Why would you recommend a 140$+ loop system that is not needed? You can OC just as hard on a good air cooler. Judging by the OPs quote of "some overclocking" this entails to me he is looking to push 4.2-4.6ghz. Why spend 100$+ on a cooler or cooling solution that has no benefit over air at those speeds/voltages? Unless he was looking to post huge numbers on a benchmark board via ridiculous OCs and/or going for a certain look (which in retrospect would look great in a 650/800D case) then that is just money wasted. I used to be gungho over Closed and Open loop system because I thought the difference was day and night temps wise. After years of tinkering I realized that air coolers have come along way(not counting the many shoddy air coolers that are on the market) and in the end for the average OC'er it really dosent matter what type of decent AM cooling used as new CPUs are more thermal tolerant and upper end air cooling are producing results that are strikingly close to upper end closed loops. The gap only opens up when you really start pushing the chip beyond meaningful conditions, but even at that point the best loop system cannot keep up and you are left with 2 options: TEC or LN2. Keep in mind the title of this thread is "beginner overclock". I am trying to give advice to the OP in regards to his needs and wants. No point in having him spend X amount of $$ for something that is not essential to what he is looking to get out of it. He already has a Hyper 212+ that more then enough for OCs atleast in the 4.5-4.6ghz range and still stay below 80c under the hardest of stresses. EDIT: Im am also very aware that Cooler Master does not make the best cases out there. For whatever reason i was under the impression that he was using a shoddy basic case and I offered CM as an option for amazing cooling, expandability and pretty decent cable management at an affordable rate. Especially if going the air cooling route.
  15. I would recommend a Case like the Cooler Master HAF 922, 932 Advanced or HAF X to supplement cooing. I wouldn't agree with getting the H90/100/100i as coolers. They are great coolers in their own right, but not needed. Keep your hyper and OC happily. There's only slight differences in performance between H100/90 opposed to high end air coolers like the Noctua D14 or even better the Xigmatek Dark Knight II (50$). You can easily OC just as hard with those air coolers. Unless you going for "The Look". Closed Loop cooling from my experience only really benefits when your pushing extreme OCs for benchmarks. Not something that your going to have for a 24/7 OC for 1.5+ years as your not going to push 1.5v+ on a 3570k for any length of time, unless 200$ a pop when it dies dosent phase you. Cable management is easily done on the HAF 932 advanced / HAF X cases or any higher end cases with cable "cutouts". Good cooling in case will better help Air Coolers that much more as well. I personally run both the HAf X and 932 Advanced now with Air coolers and I can push some really ridiculous OCs and barely break a sweat (Xigmatek Dark Knight II on both now). Ive used H60/80i/100, Noctua D14, Hyper 212+ EVO and Frio OCK coolers. From my experience the Dark Knight II only 4 degrees warmer on my i7 at 5.1ghz then my ole H100. 120$ compared to 50$ and <5 degrees. EDIT: ive dug up my old testing stats from my coolers. Maybe no one cares but here they are: (Temps opposed to H100 at 1.53v on I7 3770k 5.1Ghz after 9 hours of Prime) * Arctic Silver 5 was used* H80i 2 Degrees warmer Dark Knight II: 4 degrees Warmer Noctua NH-D14 5 Degrees Warmer H60: 7 Degrees Warmer Frio OCK: 8 Degrees Warmer Hyper 212+ Evo 8 Degrees Warmer
  16. How do I go about flashing the BIOS of Gpus? This is something Ive never attempted or have no knowledge in doing. Nevermind lol, Clicked your link. its a .exe file
  17. haha, Actually Im the opposite. Ive had the worst time with Fedex. At my old apartment they wouldn't even bother coming to the door, instead they always took it straight to the office. I hated that because I would make sure I was home from work to catch them. They pull that crap and Im stuck because office closes at 6, yet I dont get home till 7 grrrr With UPS however they always get here between 12:30pm-1:30pm and are always on time according to my many many tracking numbers Ive had with them through the years. I also built a reppore with the one UPS driver as he was here almost every day when we were inour business startup phase. Ordered 7000$ worth of PC equipment, he just backed the ole truck right up to my apt door lol. Nothing tops the time when Fedex took my package (rather large one at that) to the completley wrong address and LET THAT GUY SIGN FOR IT! that was a FIASCO getting resolved...
  18. So its seems it was thew video card? One I swapped with ran BL2 for 20 mins not a hitch. Swapped other card back in and bam crashed within 2 mins again. If it is the video card, how come certain games work perfectly and others make it crash PC completely? partially defective Vram? And how come GPU will pass all its test..AIDA64 GPU Stress, 3Dmark11 all tests, Furmark, Msi Kombustor ect. Passes every time. I would think if the GPU is defective it wouldn't be able to pass, let alone all of them.
  19. just swapped memory sticks with known working ones..Borderlands 2 crashed within 2 mins Swapped video card with a known working one, testing atm.....
  20. Just crashed again.. heres the BlueScreen Viewer text Bug Check Code: 0x00000116 Parameter 1: fffffa80`0b91e010 Parameter 2: fffff880`081666c4 Parameter 3: ffffffff`c000009a Parameter 4: 00000000`00000004 Caused by driver: dxgkrnl.sys Caused by address: dxgkrnl.sys+5d000 Crash address: ntoskrnl.exe+75c40 Other drivers that pop up in the report that are highlighted in red: dxgmms1.sys nvlddmkm.sys Re installed windows 4 times (reformatted HDD's each time prior to install) and I still get same errors.
  21. Okay so it seems like Im back to square one again... Not sure who all did or didnt read my last post few weeks ago about the problem, but here it is again. (Pasted from first post) Ive built this computer literally 4 days ago, and since then Ive had nothing but problems with it for some reason. It runs fine, until I try to play games. Every game Ive played from Wow to BF3, PC just randomly crashes for no reason and it ONLY happens while gaming. Im PC savvy so of of course my drivers are all up to date as well as the newest BIOS installed. At first I thought it was my OC, so I reverted everything back to stock and cleared the CMOS. Still same problem. Ive done everything I know how to do. Re-installed all the drivers. re-seated everything. Ran Prime95, AIDA64, Furmark, Memtest, Intel Burn-in ECT as well as SSD/HDD stability tests. Everything passes. I could understand if it was just ONE game but 7? i know cooler is seated properly as even at 1.35v and a 4.7 OC I never once hit 70C at max load even after 30 mins of stressing. According to RealTemp, Speedfan and AIDA64. RAM is seated good as BIOS reads both modules and they pass 3 consecutive MEMtest runs. Ive re-seated GPU several times and all the stability tests Ive thrown at it never had a problem, unless I OC it but that's to be expected for a card that is already OCed like a mofo. ive also disabled iGPU on the i5 thinking that was causing it as well as uninstalling Lucid MVP and AI suite II What could it possibly be? its driving me mad here! here are the specs; Asus Maximus V Formula Intel Core i5-3570k Xigmatek Dark Knight II w/AC5 G.Skill Ripjaws X 2x8Gb 2133 Asus Direct Cu II GTX 660Ti Intel Cherryville 520 120GB SSD Rosewill CAPSTONE 650watt 80+ Gold Edited Update: I thought the problem was fixed at first but its been doing it again. Seems like it only does it on certain games. Borderlands 2 BSOD within 3-40mins of game time. GTA 4 crashes to DESKTOP anywhere from 5-120mins of game time. FEAR 2 wont load past into cut scene without crashing PC same with Dead Space 2. World of Warcraft is spotty. Sometimes it works for awhile sometimes I crash during my first dungeon run. Games that work: Dirt 2/3, though after extended periods of Dirt 2 game play PC crashes upon returning to desktop and trying to load something like the internet, music ect. Star Trek Online works flawless as well as Star Wars The Old Republic,Dead Space 3, Need for Speed Hot Pursuit, The Run and Shift 1/2 . Unreal 2004/3 also works flawlessly. Ive re-flashed the BIOS to different versions, Re-installed windows,Re-installed audio drivers, Re-installed .NET 4 Framework. Ive re-installed Video drivers to various versions (Did clean uninstalls via safe mode/driver sweeper). Ive even down clocked the video card thinking thats what it was, but even at -500mhz on the core/mem it didnt fix the problem. I swapped in another card the Radeon HD 6450 that never had a problem in my roomates PC. Didnt test it out in games but OCCT showed alot of errors on the memory like it did my GTX 660ti so im thinking its not the video card. I get a BCCode 116 error on the error screen that pops up when windows re loads after crashes. Sources indicate its a video card driver when I googled the error codes (ive tried 6 different Nvidia drivers). PC passes any and all Stability test from AIDA64 to 3DMark 11. I ran MSi Kombustor on all settings and test overnight for a week straight (1 night per different test) All's good when I wake up. yet cannot play any good game for more then 2 hours at tops without crashing PC completely in the middle of gaming. I DO NOT get a Blue screen. Screens just go black then sounds goes "errrrrrr" ( like a hesitation noise) and PC reboots. All rails on PSU are working correctly as noted by physically hand checking them with volt meter. I monitor all temps Case/CPu/GPu/HDDs while gaming none come remotely close to be considered "hot" so temps aren't an issue either. Any more ideas guys?
  22. Im a stickler for the audio quality over speakers then that of headphones/Earbuds Main rig has: Asus Xonar Phoebus sound card Logitech Z5500 505Watt 5.1 surround speakers THX Certified The sound quality is breath taking, extremely clear mids and highs that really put you into the audio. When listening to surround supported HD songs I feel as though Im standing in the middle of the studio with the band. The bass on the z5500's is overwhelming. WILL knock windows off their tracks and forget anything on walls at bass level above 75% This setup is also "illegal" for gaming as I can hear things in extreme fidelity and uber positional, like bullets, footsteps coming around corners, incoming heath hazards ect. lol, I'll never forget the first time I played a FPS game on this setup. I kept catching myself ducking a little bit at a few instances. Secondary gaming computer for Family/Friends that come over Asus Essence STX Logitech X540 140 Watt 5.1 The 540's are damn good speakers. No where as quality as my z5500's but that's to be expected. Deep booming bass though can be weak at times. Bass level stays at 100%
  23. Would love to know the individual parts you picked Im a stickler for details! Kudos for the Asus board and 3570k.
  24. I will have to agree. Im usually one to jump onto the Intel bandwagon as well, but judging by what the PC usage will be I think I would have to go with the APU. The i3 is still a good choice, but a few thing stick out that will have the APU giving her a little bit smoother playback performance.
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