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About DnaAngel

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  • Birthday 04/12/1986

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    Upstate, SC
  1. At this point in time, nothing really noticeable. The software driving the hardware is more important, at the point where we are at with Integrated audio. To answer your question though, the main differences are that the Formula will have a higher grade DAC (Cirrus) as opposed to the Hero's, as well as a dedicated 600ohm headphone AMP, Film Caps, Higher SNR and the Formulas's software suite will also be more tailored to the gamer than the Hero's software package. Either one will get the job done in terms of sound and the small differences shouldn't really sway buying decision. If audio is of most importance then Just stick with Hero for price and get a Xonar DX, DGX or a Creative card. I can tell you that Dolby Headphone(Xonar DX/DGX) is true gaming bliss IMO. I don't have any personal experience with the Maximus vii and vii series, other then builds for other people, but I can tell you that my Maximus V Formula suffered badly from sound dimming (don't know the technical term) when playing a game and listening to music same time. Every time there was an explosion or loud sound both the music and game sounds would "dim" during the burst noises. Hope that helped!
  2. This has probably already been solved, but I would like to add that from my experience, avoid ASRock like the plague! I have used 5 ASRock boards in my life and I had issues with every single one of them. I had one ASRock board, I think a Q45 based board if I remember right, I had to RMA it 3x to finally get one that worked! I have also had a few friends that also had issues with their ASRock boards, both of them were using Z77/Z87 and 990FX based ones. Asus and Gigabyte and about the only Motherboards I bother fooling with anymore. MSI Is hit and miss as I've found out today. Actually now that I think about it, I haven't had a single issue with a Gigabyte board in years. The lower end Asus boards can be a bit wonky at times, but their mid grade and ROG boards are ace. As far as your OP is concerned I 2nd the Asus board.
  3. Haha I wish it was everyday! I would be rocking then! Spring/Summer sees a drop in sales, but I average about 2-3 builds a week. A+, Security+, CCENT and Network+ Certified with a Bachelors in Network Administration. I tend to take it a bit personal when people make me out to be an imbecile about these things, esp when I am just asking for a heads up. Thank you, I just wanted to put it out there and ask, as RMA's are a pain and I wanted to be more sure which part to RMA out.
  4. That I haven't done. Current PSU has only been used for 1 hour in another working build that I took it out of (due to needing a stronger PSU for the upgraded GPU being installed). I checked the rails with my multimeter out of curiosity, all reading the correct voltages. I believe you guys that there are motherboards that do not beep during POST, I guess I am just old school about things and I have never personally come across one that didn't. In all honesty I rarely ever use them in my personal builds, but over the past few years of being used to the beep on the motherboards I did use mobo speakers on, not hearing a beep in addition to not getting anything on screen raises some flags to me.
  5. There is no need to laugh and be condescending about it. I was just asking for help. I have been building about 2-3 PC's a week for customers for a good 5 years now. I am not new to this by any means and when it comes to customer's PC's I make sure everything works 100% and that means making sure speaker is plugged just in case. EDIT: How would I know what the BIOS is set to, when I cannot access the BIOS because I get no splash screen. Yes, I have used different known working video cards as well as all 3 (VGA, DVI and HDMI) integrated video outputs.
  6. Because every motherboard Ive ever built with has had POST beeps indicating the health. 1 short beep means you are gold. Yes, there is no image on the monitor.
  7. Yeap. I reseated everything 2-3x, including all power connections. Currently I have it on a test bed with just mobo, CPU, RAM and PSU hooked up, everything else is not connected. Tried the single stick of ram in both RAM slots. Monitor is on, working and connected properly. A monitor turned off still wouldn't explain the no beeps.
  8. Just put together a new system and I am having weird anomalies with it. When I boot the system I get no beeps at all from the mobo speaker, Removed all drives and video devices, still no beeps. Removed the CPU and DIMMS and still no beep. I DO however get 3 long beeps with only CPU installed and no DIMMs. From my knowledge, 3 beeps mean mobo is not detecting DIMMs, but when I insert known working ones, back to no beeps at all. Also, I don't know if this helps, but every time I go to boot system, I get "Unsupport" message on my TV after the screen goes back like its about to go to splash screen. Tried HDMI, DVI and VGA all same message. I've narrowed it down to being either the Motherboard, CPU or PSU. Changed out the new RAM sticks for known working ones, PSU is brand new that ran flawlessly in a more powerful system for all of 1 hour before I upgraded its PSU and carried over to this build. Reseated CPU, checked for broken pins etc. Also, I tried a single known working stick of RAM in each of the RAM slots as well as different video cards that are known to work. What do you guys think? I am leaning towards the mobo being bad, but I don't want to count out the CPU either. MSI A55M-E35 Socket FM2/FM2+ AMD A6-6400k APU 8GB G.Skill RAM 350Watt PSU 1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD LG DvD Combo Drive
  9. There is alot more to CPU's now then just looking at the clock speed as others have noted. That variable of measurement seemed to of died with the single core CPU era. Intel is the more superior CPU, but not always the best for the budget. Case and point, if building a PC and you need the best CPU under 130$ that would be the FX 6300. If you need more horses then that, then I almost always recommend bumping up to the i5's. I personally would pretty much always take an I5 over an FX 8 core, simply due to the real world performance of the Intel architecture outweighs that of AMD's. Per core and Per clock performance of the i5's well outperform AMD's. I ve built more Intel and AMD rigs then I can shake a stick at and my Intel rigs are usually noticeably faster, more responsive and just overall smoother to operate. Not saying AMD is bad, as I said it always boils down to getting the best bang for your particular buck.
  10. I couldn't even get through the first 2 pages before I couldn't breathe..F'ing hilarious! I completely lost it on the Potato needing custom water loop to keep from becoming a french fry or the one about a dual core potato being strong enough to finally run android LMFAO!
  11. Thanks for the replies. When I said 24/7 it was just no power-offs. No Folding or mining on that PC, just school work and gaming. Yea there really is no need for a 5Ghz OC, just wanted to do it, to do it. K series CPU mind as well right? I just didn't want to be going out next week for a new CPU, for utterly no reason. To my understanding, the 3rd gen i5's are fine as long as you don't creep up past 1.45v. I have only pushed it to 4.7ghz once on 1.3 something volts. I am on a static overclock, I know that is not the best way to do it, but I never understood the other dynamic way.
  12. Haven't posted here in quite some time, figured I would ask a nagging question to clean some cobwebs.. I have a PC that I have been using for an Pseudo-workstation and was curious as to the lifespan of an overlocked i5. Currently I have it at 4.4ghz @ 1.21v. Would love to get it to 5Ghz 24/7, but some of the research I did had people pushing 1.37-1.41v to get that. My question is would running it at say 1.4v 24/7 "fixed" kill the lifespan of this thing? As long as I can get 3 years out of it, I would be happy with that. Running the Xigmatek Dark Knight II cooler. at 1.31v 4.7ghz I only touched into the mid-upper 60's temp wise (Celsius), CPU Coolers fan was only at around 65~% speed. So long as I keep the temps in check, should I be fine for that level of OC? If so what max temps should I be cautious of? Asus Maximus V Formula I5 3570k G.Skill DDR3 2200 Mhz Asus DirectCU II GTX 660Ti @ 1264 Mhz Boost
  13. Now im even more curious as to what nvidia will bring to the table performance wise with their gk110 7xx series. Surely they wouldn't want to outshine the Titan?
  14. ......no Keep the case. If you want some beast overclocking, go with a full water cooling loop. Sorry I didn't see his case listed at first. Agreed, keep your current case. Why would you recommend a 140$+ loop system that is not needed? You can OC just as hard on a good air cooler. Judging by the OPs quote of "some overclocking" this entails to me he is looking to push 4.2-4.6ghz. Why spend 100$+ on a cooler or cooling solution that has no benefit over air at those speeds/voltages? Unless he was looking to post huge numbers on a benchmark board via ridiculous OCs and/or going for a certain look (which in retrospect would look great in a 650/800D case) then that is just money wasted. I used to be gungho over Closed and Open loop system because I thought the difference was day and night temps wise. After years of tinkering I realized that air coolers have come along way(not counting the many shoddy air coolers that are on the market) and in the end for the average OC'er it really dosent matter what type of decent AM cooling used as new CPUs are more thermal tolerant and upper end air cooling are producing results that are strikingly close to upper end closed loops. The gap only opens up when you really start pushing the chip beyond meaningful conditions, but even at that point the best loop system cannot keep up and you are left with 2 options: TEC or LN2. Keep in mind the title of this thread is "beginner overclock". I am trying to give advice to the OP in regards to his needs and wants. No point in having him spend X amount of $$ for something that is not essential to what he is looking to get out of it. He already has a Hyper 212+ that more then enough for OCs atleast in the 4.5-4.6ghz range and still stay below 80c under the hardest of stresses. EDIT: Im am also very aware that Cooler Master does not make the best cases out there. For whatever reason i was under the impression that he was using a shoddy basic case and I offered CM as an option for amazing cooling, expandability and pretty decent cable management at an affordable rate. Especially if going the air cooling route.
  15. I would recommend a Case like the Cooler Master HAF 922, 932 Advanced or HAF X to supplement cooing. I wouldn't agree with getting the H90/100/100i as coolers. They are great coolers in their own right, but not needed. Keep your hyper and OC happily. There's only slight differences in performance between H100/90 opposed to high end air coolers like the Noctua D14 or even better the Xigmatek Dark Knight II (50$). You can easily OC just as hard with those air coolers. Unless you going for "The Look". Closed Loop cooling from my experience only really benefits when your pushing extreme OCs for benchmarks. Not something that your going to have for a 24/7 OC for 1.5+ years as your not going to push 1.5v+ on a 3570k for any length of time, unless 200$ a pop when it dies dosent phase you. Cable management is easily done on the HAF 932 advanced / HAF X cases or any higher end cases with cable "cutouts". Good cooling in case will better help Air Coolers that much more as well. I personally run both the HAf X and 932 Advanced now with Air coolers and I can push some really ridiculous OCs and barely break a sweat (Xigmatek Dark Knight II on both now). Ive used H60/80i/100, Noctua D14, Hyper 212+ EVO and Frio OCK coolers. From my experience the Dark Knight II only 4 degrees warmer on my i7 at 5.1ghz then my ole H100. 120$ compared to 50$ and <5 degrees. EDIT: ive dug up my old testing stats from my coolers. Maybe no one cares but here they are: (Temps opposed to H100 at 1.53v on I7 3770k 5.1Ghz after 9 hours of Prime) * Arctic Silver 5 was used* H80i 2 Degrees warmer Dark Knight II: 4 degrees Warmer Noctua NH-D14 5 Degrees Warmer H60: 7 Degrees Warmer Frio OCK: 8 Degrees Warmer Hyper 212+ Evo 8 Degrees Warmer
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