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momosmokey

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About momosmokey

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/25/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    High-School Hell
  • Interests
    I'm interested in building computers and home-theaters. I like engineering projects - building stuff with my hands.
    I'm an avid guitar player. I like video games and playing Xbox 360. Send me a friend invite, I'm always open!

Gaming

  • Steam
    Abacusr3x
  • Xbox Live
    momosmokey

OCC

  • Computer Specs
    CPU: |Intel I3-550 @ 4.5Ghz; 1.328V| Motherboard: |MSI H55-GD65|
    Memory: |4Gb - Patriot G 'Sector 5' @ 7-8-7-19, 1580Mhz|
    Graphics Card: |Intel Integrated Graphics| Hard Drive: |Samsung F3 Spinpoint 1TB|
    Power Supply: |OCZ Fatal1ty 550W| Case: |Antec 300 Illusion|
    CPU Cooling: |Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus| OS: |Windows 7 Home Premium|

Social

  • Facebook
    Reilly Parker

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    xxmastermushxx
  1. Alight, I'll try that. Thanks. We thought it was the RAM at first because, like you said, it's more unlikely for a CPU to be bad and if it is, it would be pretty apparent. It seems odd for both RAM sticks to be faulty though. Or could having one bad stick trigger memtest 86 to give additional errors?
  2. Hello, I helped my dad build his new computer about a year ago. Recently he's been experiencing crashes. He told me the screen would display a whole bunch of weird colored crap on the screen and then the computer would crash. I had him run memtest 86 and within an hour the test said: RAM 0: 3 errors RAM 3: 1 errors the test claimed both of his RAM sticks had errors. The ram used is the same I have (Patriot 'Sector 5' 2x2Gb = 4Gb @ 1600Mhz) I than had him run one of the RAM sticks in only one of the DIMM slots to try and isolate the RAM and see if they would both display errors. The test had been running roughly an hour before my dad checked it again. The test claimed it had only been running seventeen minutes. The computer had crashed mid-test. Could this be a CPU fault? He's using onboard graphics. He's using: Intel Core i3-550 @ 3.2 Ghz (stock) MSI E33 motherboard Patriot 'Sector 5' 2x2Gb = 4Gb @ 1600Mhz) What methods of elimination would you use to try and isolate the problem? Let me know what you think. Thanks
  3. I'll try that, thanks for the suggestion. If it is trying to protect itself, what from?
  4. I don't know, maybe the markets changed. I got my back-light a year or two ago. It was very hard to find LED's at 6500k with a CRI of 90+. Yeah, I've got a multimeter.
  5. That's true; though it's harder to get LED's with a temperature of 6500k and a CRI of 98, but for a small monitor it's the preferred choice.
  6. momosmokey

    Need a new headset

    Yeah. I recently bought the Corsair Vengeance 1500 gaming headset. It's amazing, very high quality and the sound is exceptional for the price. Just be ready to tweak the equalizer as the headset lacks bass without it.
  7. Hahaha. I just use it because it looks cool. I'll take a picture for you and you can decide for yourself. It was originally for my LCD, but since getting a Panasonic plasma the blacks are so good it's not required; so I used it for my computer setup. I doubt it's the PCI-e's, but I might try some new ones. I'll have to get some first.
  8. Hahaha. Well, I bought a fluorescent light with a temperature of 6500k and a color accuracy of 98 (out of 100. It's a high quality light). The light is 36" long. I than bought a fixture for the light and put it on the "back" of my desk facing against the white wall. This essentially is why it's called a back-light. It lights the back of my display. If you still don't get it, here's and example: http://www.google.com/imgres?q=TV+backlight+pic&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=qYldjb7sX6QUTM:&imgrefurl=http://www.tvbacklights-tvlamps-led-hdtvlights.com/&docid=zfrV69-IOAP-mM&imgurl=http://www.tvbacklights-tvlamps-led-hdtvlights.com/wp-includes/images/tvbacklights/On-Off-TVbacklightguide-comparison-sml.jpg&w=795&h=296&ei=d89HT9CpOqaniALxwszbDQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=231&sig=111285922103453522664&page=1&tbnh=73&tbnw=197&start=0&ndsp=41&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0&tx=131&ty=54
  9. Yeah that's how I feel. I'm going to Germany for a year, but when I get back I'm going to get either an Nvidia GTX 650/670 or an AMD HD7950/7970. Thought I might as well upgrade my GPU now.
  10. I have no idea. It's weird that it flickers. I thought maybe because the GPU wasn't getting enough power it would than lag and cause the light to flicker because the PSU wasn't pulling enough (clean?) power from the wall. I don't know, I'm going off a whim here.
  11. Really? Huh, I never thought it would be such a concern. Well I'll tell you what I've got: Terminal 1: Computer External hard drive power Internet receiver/router power. Terminal 2: Fluorescent back-light 1080P 22" LCD display 2Ch 20w RMS Speaker amplifier (for my external bookshelf speakers) 50W Halogen lamp (not often on) ~50w guitar amplifier (only ON when playing guitar) Cell Phone charger. I wasn't too concerned about the power draw. Here's what ON, on a daily basis: Computer Internet receiver/router power 1080P 22" LCD display Fluorescent back-light 2Ch 20W RMS Speaker amplifier (If I'm not using gaming headset).
  12. I haven't had any problems with the 2 power terminals being on one AC outlet--at least from what I've observed. I'm really curious about the light flickering and what you're saying does sound right, but I'm just as unsure whether it's detrimental to my system or not. I'd still like a new PSU, but it doesn't sound like it urgently needs an upgrade as I thought. I'm overclocking my GPU as well, right now it's at 1000Mhz/2000Mhz with 2420Mhz on the memory. I'm able to achieve that with a very small bump of 6mV. To get 1020Mhz or higher requires significant voltage upwards of 112mV+. At that increased power draw do you believe my power supply can still handle it or would the 650w/750w Corsair Professional PSU be required to hold that high a power draw? Thanks for the feedback.
  13. Hello, I have a OCZ Fatal1ty 550W power supply. It's in my siggy. Since buying it I've heard it's not the best PSU. While I researched I've been told the PSU is by far one of the more important, if not THE most important, component in your system. I've recently bought my MSI GTX 560Ti Hawk and noticed it says on the box: "minimum recommended PSU 600W". On the Newegg site it said the same thing, but at something like 500W-500W. My question is whether my GPU/System is getting enough clean power. I've noticed when I run certain games that, when there's lag, the fluorescent light I have hooked up as a back-light for my display, flickers as if it's not getting enough power or something. I have two power terminals that each hold 6 power cables. Both of the power terminals are connected to the same AC outlet, but the fluorescent light is not connected to the power terminal that the computer is running off of. I thought I'd add that. I planning on getting this PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012 THANK YOU!
  14. momosmokey

    Sudden graphics performance drop.

    PROBLEM FIXED! I did another driver uninstall and re-install. After uninstalling I completely turned of the computer and let it sit before re-installing. Metro 2033 averaging 38 FPS now in the benchmark as it should. Thanks for the attempted help.
  15. momosmokey

    Sudden graphics performance drop.

    Yeah, like I said in the first post. When I play Crysis I now get 30-40 fps instead of 50-60 fps. I have no idea why though. Do you think my month-and-a-half year old GPU is already dying?
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