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Everything posted by Wolfrider

  1. Thanks for the replies, I asked my electronic professor and he's allowing me access to the lab (and the adjustable heatgun inside). Fingers crossed Any idea if its possible to fix shorted copper lanes inside the plastic? My fix worked but its definitively not the most reliable.
  2. The fan issue is a physical one, a visible scratch merged two lanes on the pcb, and makes it impossible to control the fans via the card. That's an issue I solved, problem was the program responsible for regulating the fans got shut off by a performance enhancing program and the card slowly cooked itself to death. Also this is my brother's system, it has my old 2600k. Enough for youtube vids at 720p... I'm at fault since I recommended the asus game booster to him without considering the dangers.
  3. So this just happened. First some backstory R9 fury got scratched pcb shorting the fan-control, making the fans go 100 percent all the time. Bought a gpu pwm to motherboard pwm converter and ran the fans using speedfan, regulated by gpu temp Insert little brother who plays with headset and doesn't notice when things go wrong (eg artifacts and the like). Insert Asus game booster Maybe you've already guessed what happened, the game booster disabled speedfan while my bro was playing pubg and according to him the pc suddenly went to sleep mode, but I recon the card just stopped giving output since the pc was still on when I came to take a look (was downstairs studying) What are the chances I can recover the card? I read that I could use a heatgun / oven to melt the solder, possibly re-seating the chip on the pcb Extra info: The heat exhaust at the top of the case was a lot higher than usual when I shut the pc down after gpu failure Card did not show aging symptoms prior to failure According to him he only played one and a half rounds, it should be noted that pubg keeps the gpu pinned at 100 percent even in the menu Led for bios toggle on card works Pc starts with the card installed but gives no display output Power supply is a Corsair 650 watt 80 plus gold, pc works fine on the integrated graphics Device manager detects an unknown pci-e device but can't detect what drivers it uses nor any info about it Any input is welcome, with the gpu prices I can't afford to buy a new one right now. Thank you
  4. Soo I fucked up. Badly. So it was building a ryzen system in a corsair carbide air 240, and tried putting a r9 fury nitro from sapphire in there. It worked but was a very tight fit, and the window panel wouldn't close - planned on buying low profile pci-e connectors. Thing is, I never got a signal on my monitor even though I knew the card worked. Tried using different graphic cards, but because of the space limitation I had to unscrew the motherboard to remove/add the card. It was quite frustrating, because everything worked when the mobo was out of the case. At some point I didn't give a shit anymore and tried getting the card out without removing the mobo - aaand as you may guess this is where things went south. The heatsink of motherboard scraped the pcb of the card, short circuiting 2 pcb lanes. Since then the fans go full on blast whenever I give power to the machine (had another system available, same story). Only one displayport gives a boot screen, but when the pc is fully booted all of them work. Tried manually changing the fan settings in afterburner, it changes nothing. What I did notice is that the system shows the fans being off (fan stop), so I figure the commands of the card don't reach it's own fan controller. So now to my question - is it possible to connect the fans of the Graphic card directly to the motherboard? I might buy a fan controller for the dvd bay with temperature sensors, if the voltage/connectors are compatible. Other "solution" would be to water-cool the card. Oh and you know why the system didn't work? The screw holding the hdd bay in place was creating a short-circuit on the motherboard -.-)
  5. Its not the casual miners that got me concerned, but those assholes that buy up trucks full of the cards. Vega is supposed to be double as effective compared to polaris, and overall gain is 3% while taking half the space. Depends where you live I guess. I'm going to buy a 56 and 64, and return the one that has the least performance/value. If the prices do go up I might end up selling it on ebay ? ? ?Off-topic: My brother managed to contract a mining virus. It was using 100 procent of gpu and a lot of internet bandwith! Lukely he was smart enough to shut down the system. The past 6 years I did not use a anti-virus program save for manually scanning with malwarebytes, but seems that responsible browsing makes quite a big difference. Never thought this was possible, the more you know I suppose
  6. True I might just buy one and don't open it, wait for benchmarks and then decide what to do. I am aware of the bundles, but the monitor deal is not available in europe, the cpu is a 1700x whereas I can overclock a 1700 to the same performance for 100 less, the motherboards are all atx. So the bundle is of no interest to me whatsoever, and even if I could get the monitor deal there are problems with freesync (ironic isn't it) The 770 with blower is dead silent compared to my former gigabyte rx480, that thing sounded like a plane taking off. Might be a problem with the card itself though And performance wise both the 1080 and vega64 should be able to do ultrawide wqhd, as it is almost half the pixels of 4k. I'm more concerned with consistent framerates, and amd has been making a point about minimum framerates... Although nothing is confirmed, and amd has been known to publish half-truths before
  7. My kova plus has a broken middle mouse button and the double click problem. Not very reliable. Better than steelseries though, my rival 300 has horrendous driver issues. I bought a corsiar sabre, lets sede if it can survive more than 2 years
  8. This might be a bit soon, but I takes time to sell used equipment for a decent price. I sold my rx 480 during the mining craze, and now bought a 770 for 60 eur to use in the meantime. My monitor is a ultrawide 1080p freesync monitor, and I'm planning to upgrade to ultrawide wqhd. Vega should be able to handle this res quite easily, but I'm concerned about the miners. Should I get a vega card as quickly as possible or wait for aftermarket cards? Time isn't really an issue, but if the prices skyrocket again... Seeing that I'm going to upgrade my monitor anyway, I can jump to the green team. A 100hz uwqhd g-sync displqy costs 200 eur more, but might be more rewarding when volta launches. Same can be said for amd, as they will probably try to use infinity fabric on their gpu's. Main concerns are Heat/Noise, overall cost and power draw, in that order. I require it to fit in a mini itx case, and be supplied by a 560 watt psu What are your recommendations? I'm leaning towards buying a vega 64 and upgrading the screen later when they are a bit more affordable (maybe getting a ultrawide 4k). But with miners and the simple fact that amd will only get further behind on nvidia, it may be best to invest in the surest future ? ?Edit: The site registers enter as a question marks, with pale moon as browser
  9. Guess I'm preordering, selling my free sync dispplay and buying a used 1080ti
  10. As long as I get to buy one and have it arrive without absurd delays due to availability I'll be happy
  11. My advise would be buy a 2x8gb b-die 3600mhz kit, it will give the best performance. If by some chance it won't be enough you can always add a pair later
  12. Wow you do have a point Arch was my third distro and I hated it at the beginning. Quite easy to forget all the headache, it thought me a lot about how my system works Never lost a .rc though, maybe that's fixed now Note to op: Try any main distro with gnome or kde, you can always change the de later
  13. Maybe Antergos or Manjaro then? I didn't have a single crash with either of them, I used antergos for about 2 years on my laptop. Main benefit is the archwiki and AUR, now I can't be bothered to add custom repos manually anymore
  14. ? ? The reason they give 400 dollar value in the pack for a 100 more is so more gamers would be interested. The basic price of the card is higher than it would have been if polaris hadn't doubled in price. And because availability will be bad, some people will buy them up to resell them, driveing prices even higher. ? ?I don't need another monitor, cpu motherbord nor games. I just want the cheapest card so I can max out ultrawide 1080p with freesync. Right now nvidia is cheaper in that regard (hell I can get a 1080ti for 700eur) ? ?PS can someone do something about pale moon support for the site?
  15. Damn you miners, I took amd to save money on adaptive sync. Seriously
  16. Although it's a pain to install, my vote would go to arch. No bloatware and extremely fast (openbox and compton). Don't know how to compatibility is with ?ryzen, but I heard you can use gpu passtrough, which is king imo
  17. Best bang for buck imo is buying a used 4770k. AM4 is the most future proof, as amd keeps their sockets quite a while longer than intel
  18. The mobo blew up. Long time coming, with all the problems I've been having. Ram works as advertised on a mini itx build for a friend. The rig was running 4.6ghz since sandy bridge launch, goodbye old friend
  19. Intel used to not even acknowledge amd's existence. Glad times have changed
  20. After having a fair bit of trouble with motherboards, I now have some issues with ram. i got a triple pair of patriot viper, cl7, 1333mhz for 20 euro's, paired with an 2500k and a asrock extreme 4 gen3. One stick works fine, two only boot up when I put them in A1 and A2 slots, no other config is stable. i can't get the third stick to work, but 4 gigs is enough, at least for me. Problem is, as soon as I change the clock to anything higher than 1066, the pc either boots up and shuts down, or crashes when loggin in windows. XMP just crashes the pc immediately after post. Now with both stick at 1066 the system is stable, but according to cpu-z they operate in singlechannel mode. Is there a way to get them to work in dual channel and or make them work at their advertised speed? It probabily is a compatibility issue, the mobo is up to date but that didn't do anything. I'm going to give up building after this, too much of a headache :/
  21. I put the mobo out of the case, removed my cooler and put the intel stock cooler on there. Now it gives a cpu initialization error (q-code "d0") Does this mean a problem with the cpu, microcode or faulty mobo?
  22. Sooo I messed up. I posted earlier about this board, and how I could only use the bottom pci-e slot. My solution was to switch motherboards with the one of my brother's pc, as his case doesn't hinder the bottom slot to be used. The board worked fine before with a 2600k, and I updated to the most recent bios After I inserted a 2500k, I got no post. So when I boot up, without even a graphic card nor display connected, one piece of ram (doesn't matter which slot), no sata drives, it goes in a loop, from 14 to 19 to 20. Sometimes I get 00, but one of the ram sticks I used might be bad. When I press clear cmos button on the back of the board, I get F3 (recovery image found). Tried ram that worked -before the switch. Before swapping the parts It gets stuck on 20, this happened often. Without ram I get error 14, static. Things I tried: clear cmos, taking the board out and looking for shorts, reseating the cpu, there are no bend pins on the mobo, trying different kinds of ram on all slots, putting the graphic card in all 3 slots. Power supply works fine. Only variable left is the cpu, but I'm not really inclined to open them up again, I have only so much thermal paste. Do you think I botched the board? Or maybe microcode error from the cpu? The cpu worked before the switch, and I took both out at the same time and put them directly in the motherboards. At this point I'm seriously considering buying a new mobo and ditching this horrible motherboard
  23. This motherboard has been nothing but trouble. I used to have no signal to the monitor, so I had to use a old amd card to flash the bios. Now it can take other graphic cards, unlike before the update. Trouble is, I only get a signal in the bottom pci-e slot Why is that so bad? It leaves only 1cm between my gpu and the power supply, causing my 780ti to reach temps of 85 degrees at load. The other two slots give no signal to the monitor, even though the mobo code is A0, which should mean everything works. The horrible driver support from asus doesn't help either, had to get the bios from a third party website. Any ideas how to remedy this? Worst case I can put the psu outside the case, or get an aio for the card, but that would ruin the aestethics Specs: i7 2600k Asus P8768 deluxe (non-gen3) Corsair pro 850 watt modular psu gigabyte oc 3x 780ti Kingston fury 8gb 1333mhz
  24. I updated the bios and now my the asrock board supports all gpu's again This is rather strange as the 2600k I used in it before it booted with everything, hd 6970 crossfire, gtx 760, r9 fury x,... and now it didn't with the new cpu. I'm curious, when I update the bios does it change the firmware of the cpu? Why did my board become so picky As for the asus board, I can't do the igpu trick as it doesn't have any display connections on the mobo itself, and none of my pgu's give a signal. But as I said before I'm going to meet up with the seller and use his gpu to update the bios wish me luck edit: blame my English teacher
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