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About red1776

  • Birthday 12/02/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    mpls mn


  • Steam


  • Computer Specs
    Gigabyte 990FXAUD7 Rev 1.1
    AMD FX-8350 @ 5.2Ghz
    16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 PC 1866 Mhz 4x4 GB
    Custom Water

    4x Seagate Barracuda 1 TB raid 0 (2)
    PSU #1 Corsair AX 1200W
    PSU#2 FSP Group Boosterx5 500w
    PSU#3 FSP Group Boosterx5 500w
    4x HD 7970 QuadfireX
    Cooler Master Cosmos II
    Eyefinity 3 x 1+2 extended Landscape (5760 x 1080) 3 x 25" monitors

red1776's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  1. I have used a great many of them and found IC Diamond to be superior to almost all http://www.innovationcooling.com/
  2. Thats what it is. No GPU or L3 Cache just like the previous gens of Athlon.
  3. Yeah...like you guys don't put systems together in your bikini, pbbt
  4. So I guess im still in the NH-D14 era. Haha! Damn bad-add tower-type hsf. Missed using tower hsf. @David Yeah, I think NH-D14 or the abovepost will fit to the Tempest Elite 410. Just my 2 cents. hehe, i have a Silver Arrow and thought that was over the top. this thing is preposterous...great...but preposterous.
  5. This is the king of the hill of air cooling right now, and by 5c which is huge in the high end. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17258/cpu-tri-90/Thermalright_Silver_Arrow_SB-E_Extreme_Dual_Fan_Universal_CPU_Cooler_Sockets_775_1156_1366_2011_AM2_AM2_AM3_AM3_FM1.html?tl=g40c14
  6. I am going to assume you are not including closed loop water? if thats the case: This is the king of the hill http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17258/cpu-tri-90/Thermalright_Silver_Arrow_SB-E_Extreme_Dual_Fan_Universal_CPU_Cooler_Sockets_775_1156_1366_2011_AM2_AM2_AM3_AM3_FM1.html?tl=g48c373s966 I misread the CPU you are cooling, This would work well for the x 2 550 http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2923&product_name=Hyper%20212%20Plus
  7. Razor blade. I have not seen enough results or possible effects of the pressure of the vice & hammer method to have the balls yet (especially when its customers CPU) Sure looks like it works nice though, and limits the possability of damage to the off die diodes etc.
  8. If you decide to delid and replace the TIM. Here is a very good instructional. Three things to remember... 1) take your time 2) take your time 3) take your time Here is a Club that has put together a comprehensive and extensive index of info on delidding the Haswell/Ivy's. I have delidded three 3770K's as well so if you decide you wish to replace the Thermal compound under the IHS , this is a great resource all assembled in one place. http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club You should read through all the info on the opening page of the thread. The 4770 is laid out a bit differently under the IHS than is the 3770. also the section on the gap between the IHS and the die.
  9. I have him set up with a 360mm rad AND a 240mm rad (see above)
  10. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14918/ex-rad-336/Alphacool_NexXxoS_XT45_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161 360mm Rad 80.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14917/ex-rad-335/Alphacool_NexXxoS_XT45_Full_Copper_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160 240mm Rad 58.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16377/ex-blc-1142/EK_ASUS_GeForce_680_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC680_GTX_DCII_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c311s1631 120.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16377/ex-blc-1142/EK_ASUS_GeForce_680_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC680_GTX_DCII_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c311s1631 120.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9575/ex-res-156/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM150P-BK.html?tl=g30c97s165 Internal Res 40.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/ Pump 120.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17580/ex-blc-1376/Koolance_CPU-380I_Intel_Liquid_Cooling_CPU_Block_-_No_Fittings_.html?tl=g30c323s831CPU Block 76.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17888/ex-tub-1622/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-34-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html? tl=g30c99s1614 Tubing 26.00 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html 6.00 http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0) 25.00 each http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1683555300214.00 each Total = 711.00 (without Fans) Fitting will depend on how you route things and what brand, color, and angles you need. I added the CM Excalibur fans as a suggestion. I use them on my radiators after trying out quite an array of fans. the reason is that they are quiet and have great static pressure (3.35mmH2O) and move a tremendous amount of air through the Rads. The Cougar COUGAR CF-V12HP Vortex are about half the cost but still have a decent static pressure and are quiet as well (2.2mmH2O) The number of fans obviously depends on hoe you want to set up your rads (push, pull or both) The AlphaCool NexXxos rads are excellent quality low restriction and are copper all the way around. (Fins,channels, tanks) They also have a double lipped frame around the perimeter that keeps a screw that is too long from piercing the channels by accident. The Koolance 380 CPU block is rated the best by just about everyone credible ( I just ordered on myself to replace the 370 I have) I included a silver kill coil. I am a big fan of using only Distilled water and a coil for a number of reasons. **** You don't have the exact model of your 680's listed but they are non reference cards. you need to confirm compatibility with the non ref ASUS blocks made*** You may run into a lot of warning that are from one end of the spectrum to another. A basic rule is not to introduce aluminum into a copper based loop. A bit of an explanation below. Copper, Silver, and nickel have very little reactivity with each other (electron transfer) as they are all transitional metals. b) close to each other (atomic weight). So in other words they do not create a destructive environment when used together trying to neutralize their differences in electrons. ( at least they are close enough where for practical purposes (say in our water loops) that they are close enough that a silver coil in a system would be very slow and negligible in a practical application. Aluminum on the other hand, is not a transitional metal and has a lower atomic number (lower number of protons and electrons) and creates an environment of much more active ionization when put in the same environment with transitional metals that are closer in atomic weight/proton/electron count, pulls electrons from the other metals IE damages them. Transitional metals/Abbr/Atomic weight * Silver 'Ag' 47 Transitional Metal *Copper 'Cu' 29 Transitional Metal *Nickel 'Ni' 28 Transitional Metal Non-Transitional metal/ABBR/ Atomic Weight * Aluminum 'Al' 13 Non-Transitional Metal just doing some reading about it quite a long time ago about non compatible metals 'eating/corroding/ ionizing (stealing electrons) or otherwise breaking each other down. assuming you have made sure that you have limited the metals exposed to the water in the loop. 1) If you keep the main components (the vast majority of the metal) it to transitional metals 2) Limit the Non transitional metals in the loop to the Tin (Sn) in the solder. the Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn) comprising Brass (both transitional metals) 3) Do not introduce Aluminum to the internal system. The practice would be (for myself) this is what I based my loops on. I use a Silver Coils and Distilled and thats it. I have not observed any ill effects on any part of the metallic loop. I keep an eye on my loops particularly on smaller edges and thinner areas like micro fins for signs of ionization and have seen none sticking to my policy above. **** This is my findings and research so I am merely sharing the results of putting this in practice in my watercooling.**** . I don't know how in love you are with your case, but yours is not exactly conducive to a complete bespoke watercooling system so you may want to invest $120 or so in one that is more befitting of one. Just a thought Hope that helps. If you want any more help, just holler
  11. Hi trixter, Welcome BTW For that price range you are in this area (minus the RAM cooling) Ram cooling is really just for looks, and takes you over the $250-300 budget. have a look at these. They make some good products. The GPU block and fittings are going to add about another $100-150 to the project, but this is a good jumping off point unless you want to loosen the purse strings and go with a complete bespoke system. http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c321/s1310/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Cooling_Kits_-_Brands-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html?id=BYWI9ta7 Is this the rig in your sig? If you are wanting to block two 680's a bit more than double the figure above for the GPU's
  12. have you taken out the CPU to make sure that you got the pin straight and it didnt fold over when you placed it in the socket? the coincidence seems just to odd. If the pin was partially broken after you straightened it, and then pushed the lever for the tension plate down. It may have broken the pin off.
  13. hehehe, hell yea frank, sapphire trixx ftw ! they're moving the air they're supposed to now !! that's what i like,....get that warm air outta da box,...that's does the trixx !! CJ, I think you might be missing one crucial point though. While forcing constant voltage (keeping the GPU's in a boost state of 300Mhz) yes they are moving air, however they are moving heat "out of the box" that would not otherwise be created in the first place with zeroCore in tact. ZeroCore is in practical terms turning the unneeded GPU's OFF while not in use. In other words they are not creating any heat that needs to be moved. When you force a boost state, they are literally using 10 x the energy (and heat) they would if ZeroCore is working. I would suggest a little experiment. Let zerocore do its thing and watch the temps of your GPU's while in an idle state. Now force the power state that you are talking about that keeps the fans on and see which is lower (never mind the energy savings and noise reduction. ) Make note of the temp of the ZeroCore GPU and then open GPU-Z (this turns on ZeroCore GPU's) and watch the temp of the second card with 300MHz P-state. You will find that the ZeroCore active linked adapter will be much cooler than the forced P-state version. This (if I am understanding your implication correctly) You are solving a problem that does not need to exist in the first place. Anywho, Since ZeroCore caught you off guard. I wanted to make sure you understood what the deal was with it. And what your options are. A couple things to check out. http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/amd_radeon_hd_7970_review,3.html
  14. Hehe, Don't. Zero Core got past a lot of people and caught them by surprise (the corresponding freaking out) that the cards were going to burn up. Just start a game about 25 times and listen to them spin up It's kind of a disconcerting feeling to here the colling solution come to a flying halt until you get used to it. If you monitor the temps though, They do not rise at all in zero-Core. they are basically shut down so there are no Watts to dissipate.
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