Jump to content

shindaiwa21

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About shindaiwa21

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles

OCC

  • Computer Specs
    Phenom X4 9850BE @ 2.5GHZ w/ Zalman 9700
    MSI K9A2 Platinum 790FX SB600
    HD 4850 Crossfire (w/ Zalman VF900's)
    4GB OCZ Platinum DDR2-1066
    Gateway FPD2185W 21" WSXGA 1680x1050
  1. As I have said I don't really have a heat problem. They are down to like 45/60C load and 35/40 Idle respectively. I would expect decent overclocking results with these low temperatures, and I know the HIS will overclock pretty generously. Not sure why the Sapphire won't. Sapphire is now in the bottom position, non-master, and still running hotter, even when it's throttled and the master isn't. Sapphire won't budge in terms of overclocking. There are 2 120mm 50CFM fans right next to the radeons on the side panel and the cpu cooler is now exhausting upwards.
  2. I would suggest doing the following (much like others have said:) Monitor your GPU temps while gaming with like HWmonitor (great program) and see if you're running hot. If you are, clean out the heatsink as best you can. One way you an do this if compressed air isn't doing the job is by removing the screws that secure the fan (if possible) then just washing out the metal component in the sink, letting it dry out in the sun for a day, then screwing the fan back in. I would also recommend pulling the heatsink, cleaning it off and pulling whatever thermal pads are on there, and replacing it with new thermal compound. If that's like a 2008-2009 card that's been running hot for the past few years, there's a good chance whatever glop or pads were in there are pretty shot (especially given that GPU acceptable max temps are waaaay higher than CPU.) Lastly you might try blowing out your PCI-E slot, make sure there isn't any dust messing with your connections. If you want to replace it with a new card, you can grab a gtx 260/gtx 275/HD 4870/HD 4890 off ebay for like $70, that will give you about a 20% bump in performance. If you want more than that, I would suggest a HD 6870 (about $150 on newegg with rebates.) For $150 that would be my suggestion. It would help us to know what resolution you game in (or rather, would like to game in.) The 6870 should double or triple your performance. Going up to the 6970/GTX570 will add another 50-100% of your current performance. Also I'm not exactly sure of how demanding the games you want to play are, but I would say they aren't that as demanding as hard core FPS. A GTX 570 or HD 6970 isn't going to double your performance by a long shot, but it will cost twice as much.
  3. Well by all means get them tightened up, just do it after you get it all running, tackle one variable at a time (and bios OC failures are way easier than pulling out sticks of ram, changing bios settings, then putting the sticks back in, rinse, repeat.) I'm not up on the latest generation of intel tech but wouldn't a i5/i7 have an integrated memory controller ie a northbridge on the cpu just like AMD's have had forever, or did they somehow do away with it to a greater degree than AMD has, made things more one unit. Anyway, that's besides the point. If there is voltage control for the integrated northbridge, might be worth bumping that, if not, then maybe just a straight up CPU vcore bump (only if you need it) and a vram bump. IMO 6gb really is perfect for a Win 7 gaming system. Gives you enough leeway to game with a few apps open chrome/trillian/steam easily. From 6 to 8gb seems pretty much pointless.
  4. I would have no qualms about mixing those two sets of ram at all. Given that both are Gskill with the same timings, rated speed, and voltage. They are likely incredibly similar chips, either the 4gb kit has 2x the chips per dim or the the same number of chips at twice the size. Regardless, it's about as good of a match as you can get for a 2gb and 4gb kit. Also I checked the timings and the command rate is 2N for both sets of modules, it just doesn't mention it on newegg. 2gb Kit Anyway what you're probably gonna want to do is go into your BIOS and set manually set all your timings instead of having automatic, in fact you could go with some looser timings to try and ensure you boot. Also, running 4 banks, especially on AMD systems, from what I have seen, can be somewhat demanding, so you might consider a voltage bump to like 1.6-1.65V (see if other people have run those volts first,) and starting at 1333 and moving up to 1600 later. It may also require a northbridge voltage bump to be stable/boot/post etc etc. Each system handles differently. Good luck, most likely you can just slap them in and it will go.
  5. Fired up both compressors tonight, both rusted out in the last 20 years... lol I'm too cheap to buy canned air soooo... Take the fan off the zalman and put it in the sink for the CPU cooler and q-tips + water for the VGA coolers.
  6. Cleaned out the heatsinks, flipped the cards, and reversed the orientation of the CPU cooler for good airflow away from the top card. To those of you who suggested it, how would a power-supply failing to provide the required wattage result in a hot card??? Less power is less heat dissipated... Results: HIS Card (Now Master:) 34C Idle/45C Load Saphire Card (Now Slave:) 40C Idle/60C Load <--- this card is downclocked/undervolted at Idle as well, the master is not. "Load" = BF Bad Company 2 CF=Enabled All High 2aa/2af 1680x1050 Attempted a 675/1025 overclock via CCC, tested okay, but then crashed immediately when applied, and I couldn't even get into catalyst center to deal with it (going in seemed to make it crash, gray bars.) I suppose the crash could have been a driver issue, but I think it was an overclock failure occurring once CCC (11.7) was loaded. Since I couldn't get in there I had to uninstall CCC and then reinstall it. The card slots had been swapped before I attempted the OC with no driver change, if that's relevant. Seems like a fairly conservative OC for what people can get with 4850's and the temps they're running with VF900's. I still have to ask myself why that Sapphire card is sooo bloody hot by comparison. I might try new thermal paste, but as I've mentioned it was applied 10mo ago where the HIS had thermal paste applied 2-3 years ago and is still cooler. Can anyone answer my question of whether it would be safe to flash the Sapphire with the HIS BIOS. They have the same device ID and afaik were both reference 4850's, however, there is a difference in capacitor layout on the PCB's (HIS seems to have reduced the number required.) It's bugging the hell out of me to have these great coolers and pretty good temps but be unable to do anything more than stock 4850's. @stonerboy: figured out my PSU's rail layout, got the parts, now I just gotta build the cable and my power distro should be about as good as it will get.
  7. I honestly couldn't care what the inside of my case looks like, as long as it functions properly, as it should with clear air pathways. I'd much rather put my time into my car. I'm not having performance issues, the top card is being fed right out of the PSU's modular connector not off a molex with splitters, there are no voltage drops when it's under load, and I don't see how insufficient power provision could make it run hotter. Regardless I'm putting in the 940BE today and flipping the Zalman for a better airflow configuration that shouldn't heat the top GPU. I'm also toying with the idea of moving onto my am2+ 780a board and going to GTX 275 OC SLI with a better power supply.
  8. It looks like nothing connects to the top center pin on the PCI-E connector normally anyway (looking at a 400W I have around.) Anyway, if I am correct in assuming there is a 5V coming out of the PSU's 6-pin, all I need do is look at the modular power cable I have for PCI-E, and see which hole has no wire coming out of it and I will know that is the 5v. With that info I should be able to build either a molex or PCI-E adapter. To go to molex I was planning to just map two grounds from the 6-pin, one 12V, and the (most likely center) 5V to the molex cable. I'm kinda wondering if there is a better way to do it though as that will only use half the 12V capacity of the socket I plug it into, assuming the two 12V connections are coming off different rails, which likely they aren't, as there are 3 12V rails and a lot more than 3 6-pin sockets on the PSU. It's just haha, if they aren't coming off more than one rail, why the hell don't they just make a 2pin connector. Sigh. I guess I should just be happy I'm not trying to run some SLI setup with like 2 8-pin connectors on each card.
  9. I think I'm good. Right now I'm just planning to use two PCI-E connectors with some spool wire to built a PCI-E to PCI-E male male cable which should be pretty straightfoward. I'm assuming the top center pin of the 6-pin modular connectors on the mobo is 5V, allowing it to split into molex and SATA power (shakes fist.) All the bottom three should be ground the top sides should be 12V and the center should be 5V. For a PCI-E to PCI-E I should probably leave the top-center disconnected and for a molex, I guess I should just choose a 12V channel (top right or left) and two of the three grounds and map those to a molex.
  10. The very reason it had not occurred to me to try such a thing. I was thinking I'd look at how a 6-pin to molex cable was wired and perhaps solder the leads of the molex chain I cut out of the old PSU into one of the empty 6-pin sockets on the PSU if that's even how it's done.
  11. Yes yes it shouldn't but the heatsink fins have no buildup blocking the airways between the fins so it really isn't much of an issue in terms of cooling (the pic of the two cards is ages old, the dust has been cleaned out of the nickel one and the copper one is still clean) One of the coolers is the Nickle plated Copper stuff and one is just plain copper. Like the green nvidia zalman coolers and the fatality ones are nickel plater and look dark silvery. I didn't really care I just ebayed both as cheap as I could get them and that's how they ended up. Anyway, it's the copper one that's hot. I might blow it out with a compressor but half the ramsinks would prolly fall off the 4850's... stupid thermal tape. I should just put them on with thermal adhesive one of these days. Anyway I'll flip the cards today or tomorrow and see what happens. If it is the CPU cooler being backwards or one card running the displays it should switch which is hot. Somehow I don't think so though. I'll flip the cpu cooler when the phenom ii goes in. Also I figured the heatsink must be in good contact with the hot card, since it was noticeably considerably hotter to touch, if it wasn't in good contact, only the core would be hotter not the cooler. I'm very curious if anyone knows if these early release 4850's had wonky BIOS's or perhaps bad PCB design/vregs or something. Also if there is any new BIOS I could flash the Sapphire card with, or if I could just flash it with the BIOS from my HIS card (which also seems to drop in voltage when it isn't in use, unlike the Sapphire.) I know the PCB boards on the Sapphire and HIS are not he same, the HIS has 2 less caps in one area, and a few different lights, would that mean I couldn't flash the Sapphire with the HIS BIOS? I'm unsure of the degree to which the BIOS is related to the board design or just the chip. I know early 4850's also had a lot of heat issues, and I'm not sure that that was all simply due to terrible fan control. Thanks for the suggestion of soldering in some more power cables stonerboy, I just cut a molex off an old school 20-pin and I may try it, as that will basically make it so I don't need any splitters. Both cards have the same device ID, release date, and came with stock coolers and look approximately reference:
  12. If you've got an extra tiny IDE drive around from some old builds or possibly a big flash drive, you could always install a separate copy of windows of that (or empty partition) and see if it installs and performs properly. I tend to reinstall windows when I change video cards unless they have the same core, ie 38x0/48x0's.
  13. Yeah, well it's been running like this for like 2 years without any power issues. Yes it's dirty (I knock one splitter off cleaning and who knows what will happen,) and yes I realize the Zalman is on the wrong way, it was attached to the board on a previous case (1998 beige ATX with no panels and a floor fan next to it,) at the time it didn't really matter. As I mentioned I don't think it likes to go on the other way and Zalman AM2 mounting stuff is pretty bad, already had one of the those cheap pot metal clips break on me. It was bad enough getting it on at all (if I recall the chipset coolers are kinda in the way?) Anyway I just got myself a 940BE so I'm gonna try and flip it when I put that in. I recently got my hands on a Zerotherm BTF90 and a Tuniq Tower 120, maybe I'll try one of those.
  14. 6950 seems to be a better value than a 6970 and pretty much can be overclocked into a 6970 as far as I can tell. Grab a 1gb if you're going 1920 or bellow or a 2gb if you're going above 1920. Monitor, maybe a Dell 2408WFP? Don't really know.
  15. The most powerful CPU for the money right now is probably the i5 2500K (i5's perform almost the same as i7's and cost less.) Great overclocker, extremely powerful quad. Your other options are the Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition or the Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition. In terms of future-proofing the i5 2500K is probably the best closely followed by the Phenom II X6. Alternatively the 955BE is dirt cheap and will still run any game at like 80FPS, anything less than that that you get, it's your graphics card's fault. Any of these CPU's will be pieces of cake to overclock with unlocked multipliers. Any other models of CPU are basically the same with different default multipliers, and are not really worth anything unless you don't overclock. Personally I don't have a great deal of confidence that the i5 or the x6 will outlast the 955BE by much (overclocking included in that estimation,) you won't see any benefit from either the x6 or the i5 for at least a year, probably not even after that, so I advise you to get the 955BE, a nice x16/x16 crossfire board like a 790FX or 890FX (biostar TA890FXE used to be a great deal,) and dump the rest of your money into graphics cards to make sure you get that 80FPS your 955 can provide. As for graphics cards, I'd suggest HD 6950 1GB for 1920x1200/1080 or bellow, 2GB for above, if you have more money, a 2nd 6950 1/2GB, if you have even more money, a 6990. For a typical gamer it's probably better to go with a single HD 6950 then add another one for $75-100 off ebay in a year, as a single card will beast most games at 1920 and bellow. I'm not really up on nVidia cards but they usually cost more for the same performance and you need a rarer SLI chipset or a brand new 990 chipset motherboard for SLI if you go AMD. If you go intel, the board will run SLI or CF.
×
×
  • Create New...