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Everything posted by Shurman292

  1. I bought this same exact drive a couple of months ago and couldn't be happier with my purchase. It is just what I needed to make my computer feel snappy like it should. It gives me a 7.6 WEI and transfer rates are as advertised. It is still running like a champ and the 2.5" form factor is nice because I can mount it anywhere I want in my case. The fact that the sandforce drives have write speeds almost equal to their read speeds is quite nice as well.
  2. I would get the ASUS, it will definitely be better for music/movies than the Creative since the latter is specifically for gaming. If you can afford it, I have heard nothing but great things about the Logitech Z-5500.
  3. This may not be the most futureproof option but it is definitely the best bang for your buck. If you can foot the bill, I would go for the GTX 580 and then SLI it in the future to stay ahead of the competition if need be
  4. Hey everyone, I am looking to rent or borrow a 1080i or 1080p video camera during the week of March 13-20, 2011. My father and I are taking a vacation and I would love to be able to shoot some quality video. Since we will probably not need a camcorder after that, purchasing one would be an unnecessary expense. Just like most of you are, I am an electronics guru and I take very good care of my equipment. Rest assured that I will do everything I can to return it in the same condition I received it. I live in Indiana and if you are not, I would gladly pay for shipping both ways. Please let me know if you are interested in helping our trip be unforgettable! Thanks guys, Have a very Merry Christmas!
  5. No I don't need the mic but I found a pair of S4is for $79 online so I figured I might as well throw those into the mix too. I'm thinking about going for the Sennheiser IE6s but I am still wondering if my E3g pair would produce better sound or not. I know the IE6 is a newer model and retails for around $250 while the E3g retails around $200, but I couldn't find a direct comparison online anywhere.
  6. +1 that is so annoying! It's also incredibly annoying when someone asks you to "speed up" their computer because there is so much junkware/bloatware/malware on their computer from lack of any regular maintenance. Then, when you are fixing it they ask why it's taking so long I'm sorry your computer is slower than you are. I will be here for a while, get over it!
  7. From what it sounds like, your PSU is fried since there are artifacts even in the BIOS. Graphics cards do not initiate until after bios loads so I would assume your 470 is alright. Plus those cards are meant to handle temps up to 105C before they downclock themselves and shut off. I would recommend getting at least a 750W PSU unless you go with a 650W from Corsair (I don't trust other PSUs and Corsair has great ratings, you get what you pay for). On another note, cards should not be allowed to get that hot in the first place. I have heard that for constant usage such as folding, they should be kept around 80C, max 90C for shorter gaming sessions.
  8. +1 I cannot stand it when people judge your computer by its internet connection... my dad gets online with my computer without noticing the browser loaded the second he clicked the button, navigated to a website and complained that it wasn't any faster than his P4 computer on the same connection haha Just thought of another...when people buy huge monitors and their gfx card cannot support the resolution so everything is giant and distorted. Or just integrated graphics in general!
  9. Definitely put the D14 back on there because from what I have seen it beats everything I have seen except custom water cooling and so on. My 930 D0 is OC'd to 4.01 with 1.21V and LLC on (meaning the voltage could jump even higher if needed) and it never reaches 75C. For stock speeds and great coolers that you are using you should see load temps nowhere near that (55-60 tops!). Unfortunately I do not know much about lapping and how much that would help you. Definitely lap both the CPU and the heatsink you plan to put on it. If you do lap it, make sure you also apply TIM correctly as this could have a huge effect on your temps. Another option would be to find someone who doesn't care about OCing or temps in general and sell it to them and get yourself a 930/950
  10. Hi everyone, Just recently I realized that the left earbud went out on my 5 year old Shure E3g IEMs (audio is very low volume compared to right earbud). I cleaned it out and there was no improvement After looking at Shure's website I realized that it would cost me $80 to have these repaired, plus shipping and handling (originally paid ~$130 for them). I hope I can get some advice on whether to bite the bullet and fix them or purchase a different pair of IEMs for around $80-100. I looked at the Klipsch S4i and S5i and they seem like they would do the trick (I am no audiophile but I do appreciate good bass and clear audio). What are your opinions? Thanks in advance!
  11. Just keep the 470, overclock it a bit, and save your $$ for something that will noticeably boost performance like an SSD. The overclocked 470 will provide optimum gaming on almost every game out there and as was mentioned, can be SLI'd in the future when you have to turn games down from ultra to very high
  12. No no, thank you Munky! Maybe now I can crank up my sub and teach those noisy neighbors a lesson lol
  13. I am seriously considering that D2X that Munkypoo is selling. Thanks for your opinions guys, I am not the most educated person about the world of audio so it helps to have opinions from more trained ears. $100 for a sound card that good is a decent price and I think I will be well pleased if I ever need an HTPC down the road.
  14. +1 for the 580, tri-sli would be too much of a hassle and once you commit, you are pretty much fully-upgraded. A 580 would be a much better future-proofing option.
  15. Thanks man! If it were between the Asus DS/DX I would go with the DX purely for the PCI-E and the ability to add a second GTX 470 down the road if need be I like the fact that the HT | Omega is an American company, but its 16 bit audio makes me a tad leery of buying it as compared to the Asus cards. Although I'm not an audiophile per se, I do want to make sure games have good, smooth surround separation. Oh on another note, I believe I have figured out how to re-enable my microphone in Windows, I just need to get home and test it. Phew lol
  16. I can go higher but I would really prefer not to unless absolutely necessary. I know there are some good sound cards out there for $150 but I just can't justify that much $$ for sound (maybe I would change my mind if I could listen to the difference before I commit). Yea, I have to use the back panel since the headset is 5.1, but I do not see this "mixer" menu you are talking about. I can disable the mic through the general sound options if that's what you mean. I gave that a try but unfortunately it didn't change anything. --Edit-- In trying to re-enable the mic, I realized that it is completely gone from all menus: sound options in the control panel, Realtek HD Audio Manager, and it has also disappeared from the device manager. A little help would be appreciated...I'm getting slightly paranoid!!
  17. Hi all, I just bought the Turtle Beach HPA2 true 5.1 headset at a ridiculously low price from Newegg and am wondering if purchasing a mid-range sound card would improve directional separation at all since there are actually 8 drivers in the cans. I was also hoping that a sound card would reduce the hiss and slightly random noises that sometimes come from this headset. I am currently using on-board audio (Realtek ALC889) which, in all honesty, is a great little piece of hardware. Two of the cards I have been looking at are the ASUS Xonar DX and the Creative X-Fi Soundblaster Titanium, both of which are around $50-70. If you guys have any other suggestions they would be much appreciated as well. Thanks!
  18. I realize that now and after hours with OCCT, I am rock solid I had to up the voltage to 1.05v and decrease the core clock to 770mhz and memory to 1825mhz. With a custom fan profile, temps max out around 84-85 with stock cooler. Still a decent overclock and very stable.
  19. If you have your ram overclocked too high it could lose some of the sticks. I lost 2 gb when my memory was at 1600mhz (what it was rated for) but it's stable at max capacity when sitting at 1066mhz. I don't understand it but it's worth trying. Also, I've heard that bent cpu pins can have this effect. See the thread here that I started a while back about it. Hopefully there is something in there that may help you. If nothing else, run a memtest and test each individual stick just to rule out bad ram.
  20. In looking around at the different headsets, I have finally narrowed it down to two surround sound sets. The TB HPA2 has 8 drivers (4 in each can) for 5.1 surround while the PC333Ds only have "virtual" dolby digital 7.1 surround meaning that they have only one driver in each ear. I know Sennheiser is much better quality than TB but I am wondering if true surround with multiple drivers is superior to the virtual processing done by the sennheiser sound card. Thanks guys!
  21. You're welcome, hopefully everything works out well for you!
  22. 120 GB is a decent sized SSD, this should do you nicely. From what I understand, TRIM has nothing to do with wearing an SSD out. On an SSD without TRIM, if you delete a file the data for that file is still written on the drive but the address within the OS's system file is deleted. So when that sector of the SSD needs to be written to again when placing a new file in that sector, it has to delete the old content and then write the new content, effectively slowing the drive down. Instead, TRIM forces the SSD to actually delete blocks of data when the OS deletes them so that when new files are written to the SSD, the OS is writing to "fresh" memory. I hope this makes sense and if not there are tons of websites that try to explain TRIM out there. If I were you, I would not mess with assigning any SSDs to RAID because chances are your RAID controller will give you issues and the SSDs are already much, much faster than any HDD RAID array could ever be due to their low seek time. As far as reliability goes, you will most likely replace the drive with a faster one before it dies
  23. In your line of work, I believe that a Sandforce drive would do very nicely (285 read/275 write). Because you do lots of installs, a high write speed would be very beneficial. Out of experience, I highly suggest you go for it. Do not chintz yourself on the size of the drive because they have an average of 2 million hours between failure, so chances are you will keep it around for a long time. Do not purchase the Crucial C300 unless your motherboard supports SATA 6gb/s. Any of the Sandforce drives will do, as I believe they are all fairly similar. I have the OCZ Vertex 2 which I bought for the high IOPS compared to some drives, but the Mushkin Callisto drives are good as well. Just go with a company you trust.
  24. I apologize for not having any data on the lack of TRIM support but if you are trying to decide which setup to put in your rig, I suggest just using a single SSD with TRIM. It will be a sufficient boost in speed because the main factor in SSD awesomeness (for lack of a better word lol) is their low seek time. I agree read/write times are important but if you go with a sandforce drive you won't need much more speed than that!
  25. If you buy a decent CPU cooler such as the Noctua NH-D14 or a Zalman 9900 you should be able to put a decent overclock on your CPU. If you can break 3.0ghz with a quad core, you are definitely not going to bottleneck that GPU (or any really for that matter).
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