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SpeedCrazy

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Posts posted by SpeedCrazy


  1. Smith & Wesson Model 66 with a 2 inch barrel. 6 rounds of 357 hollow points and 50 rounds of 38 special. Also got a nice leather holster and a nice hogue grip on the gun. Got all of it in a trade for my Smith & Wesson M&P Shield 9mm with 150 rounds of TulAmmo and 150 rounds of Federal ammo. Good deal, if you ask me. 

     

    I can't wait to take it to the range, it seems like a great gun. Sights are adjustable for windage and elevation, and it as a nice orange insert on the front sight which makes it really nice to aim. 

     

    78QOg.jpg

    Good looking gun.

    Windage and elevation? ROFL

    I don't think those will do you much good in a self defense situation. Or would be needed.

    Looking at some reviews of that guns 4" big brother 6in groups at 15yds seems to be real good. So with a 2" barrel i don't think adjusting the sights will do you much good.


  2.  

    Glad they got you squared away. The reason i was saying that i would take either over the 9 is simply the possibility of a heavier bullet. At self defense ranges the difference in power will be negligible. Like kyfire said a few well placed .22 shots can stop someone a lot quicker than 1 or more .50 cal shots.

    I personally wouldn't carry a revolver for self defense, I feel more comfortable with a double stack glock =p , but you came to the right conclusion that you should carry what you shoot best because when the fit hits the shan that is what is going to count.

     

    I shoot the 9 decently well, but like any beginner, I need more practice. If a 22 can be just as effective, why do people even bother with high caliber guns?

     

    A revolver's capacity is a pretty big disadvantage when comparing it to a double stack mag, but my 9mm only takes 7 rounds, and 8 with the extended mag which I don't use. The revolver would take 5, so it's not that big a deal. I'll shoot a .38 revolver sometime soon and make my decision. I'm really hoping I like it because I have a real soft spot for revolvers. 

     

    "Why do people even bother with high caliber guns?"

    Why do you want a sports car? Or an overclocked pc?

    But seriously, in this case bigger can be better. I say that because probably 90% of ccw holders don't practice as much as they ought and therefore that lucky shot we hope they get in needs to count for the most damage it can. And even the best range shooter an go to pieces when in a self defense situation. Sure you could take out your attacker with a .22, but with a 38 your kill zone is a good bit bigger and thus easier to hit.


  3. Glad they got you squared away. The reason i was saying that i would take either over the 9 is simply the possibility of a heavier bullet. At self defense ranges the difference in power will be negligible. Like kyfire said a few well placed .22 shots can stop someone a lot quicker than 1 or more .50 cal shots.

    I personally wouldn't carry a revolver for self defense, I feel more comfortable with a double stack glock =p , but you came to the right conclusion that you should carry what you shoot best because when the fit hits the shan that is what is going to count.


  4.  

     

    .38, .38+p, .357 don't matter if you hit your target. :) They all can kill ya just as dead. :D

    Very true. I'd try 'em all and just buy whichever feels best and has the cheapest ammo.

    True, but some may be a bit more effective than others. The force of a 357 would allow for a slight mistake compared to a 38.

     

    I'd love to try everything but I'm buying from private sellers unfortunately. :(

     

    Should I wait for a 357 or snatch a nice 38 +p?

     

    With the minimal difference between 357 and 38 +p i would say get what is available and spend the extra time at the range so that "mistake" never happens. I would trust a few well placed shots far more than less more powerful shots. Besides, both will have a lot more stopping power than your 9mm.


  5. No doubt. I love the orange. Easy to find. It is the limit on size of bag I'd be willing to cram under a seat on the airplane.

     

    Guess its time for a new laptop! Jk jk...I'm sure you'll find something. Just be sure if you do buy online you can return it in case you hate it...

    Well i was kinda thinking tiger orange but that works.

    new laptop, this baby is all over 3 weeks old.... :( Definitely buying something with a return policy.


  6. I have the Lowepro Hatchback in amazingly blinding orange! I love it...though my laptop is much more netbook sized. However there might be some others that can accommodate the bigger deal. Haha

    Why am i not surprised its orange?

    I looked at that one, but i can't find a version that would take my laptop. The best one i have found so far is the lowpro compudaypack

    I really wish the camera space was not so marginalized in it, but it does fit up to a 17" laptop. I really like the fastpak, but it supports up to a 15.4" laptop and i'm not sure if i could squeeze my 15.6" into it safely. there are packs out there that will do everything i want, but i rather doubt if they are small enough to take on a plane as a personal item along with my hand luggage. 


  7. Most will do what you want. My choices were severely limited when I bought my 17.3 laptop. I currently have a Toshiba bag for the big toshitba craptop I had. It now houses my 17.3 Hp, Canon ELPH 300hs, Taurus PT709 slim with 3 mags, and when needed my canon T3I. With all the cords and other stuff I need when I travel.

     

    The best thing you can do is go to a store and look at them for yourself so you can get a real feel for them.

    Yeah, my problem is figuring out which ones will fit. One place says "fits 15in laptop" and means one 15" wide, the next says the same thing and means one with a 15" screen.

    I have a toshiba bag, probably similar to yours that i have had for years, it fits the laptop and cables with a pocket camera and a few odds and ends but i can't fit my DSLR kit in it.

    I'll have to see if there is a store somewhere nearby that has more than a few different bags.


  8. Hey Y'all,

    I know we have some photography buffs out there so i hope some of y'all can help me with this.

    I am going to be doing some travelling in the next few months and i need a bag that can hold my laptop (Dell precision M4800 w/ 15.6" screen) and my Nikon D5100 with all the related cables and accessories. It needs to fairly compact because it will be riding as an extra hand luggage bag on flights and as such will likely end up under my chair or between my legs.

     

    My budget is a max of $100, but the cheaper the better so long as its good quality. AKA best bang for the buck under $100.

     

    I have been looking at a number of bags, but I prefer to know what actually works for people.

    Thanks,

    Speed

     

    EDIT: After having been googling this for the past hour i have decided two things: I rather limited my options when i bought such a big laptop, and 2 that for that size laptop >$100 is rather fanciful. So to justify the price hike i am going to add another criteria, it must be able to hold notebooks and such so i can use it when i go back to school in the fall.

    New budget: Best bang for the buck >$200

    Must hold:

    15.6" laptop and charger + accessories(mouse and small external hdd)

    Nikon D5100 DSLR + Charger, external flash and one extra lens(minimum)

    A few books/notebooks/textbooks.


  9. if it boots up than it's probably just corrupted data. which is WAAAY cheaper because you can do it yourself. if it's making weird noises, than it's busted and expensive repair.

     

    I'm thinking this was the problem. But i am running diagnostics as we speak. (After backing up ALL my data) Its not making noises so hopefully its not actually damaged.

     

    As Andrew said above remove it for sure and run it as a secondary drive. If not every time you turn it on it is possible it is re-writing over stuff that is deleted or lost.

    As the others have mentioned Recuva is great. I used this a few months ago for a friend and I got most of her files back.

    Undelete Plus works really well too. If you are good with command prompt try PhotoRec it is a safer alternative to deep disk recoveries and quite powerful as well. 

    Thanks for that piece of advice, i had been told(and did) run it as a secondary but no-one said why. I've downloaded recuva but so far i haven't found anything missing. Given the amount of time it spent repairing while in safe mode I'm fairly certain that all the damage was to windows files and not my data. 


  10.  

     

    Recuva has been good to me, I think I used R-Studio and it was decent too. Luckily I'm a backup freak so I never really have the real need for recovery programs anymore

    I'll try it then. Like i said i don't have a huge amount i'd lose, but i don't always remember to save stuff to the right location. So if possible I'd rather be safe than sorry. 

     

    If you have an identical drive I would try swapping the printed circuit boards.

    Unfortunately they are identical in size only. One is a WD Caviar Blue, and the other is a Caviar Black.

     

     

     

    Interesting development, i loaded linux mint on a live cd and cleaned the good drive off prior to installation, and whilst i was there i decided what the heck lets test the other disk. It returned no errors... so i restarted and switched boot order. Windows loaded in safe mode...  i think what happened is that i lost power during windows update configuration as after half an hour in repair mode i am running again. Whatever it may be i am running my back up RIGHT now.

     

    Is there any software y'all would recommend to deep test the drive to make sure?

     

    If any WD diagnostics tell you it's clean, I'd be happy with that since they're probably what you need to fail for warranty to kick in

     

    Warranty... what is this thing you speak of? I've never had a drive die within warranty.

    I'll run  the wd diagnostics in the am.


  11. Recuva has been good to me, I think I used R-Studio and it was decent too. Luckily I'm a backup freak so I never really have the real need for recovery programs anymore

    I'll try it then. Like i said i don't have a huge amount i'd lose, but i don't always remember to save stuff to the right location. So if possible I'd rather be safe than sorry. 

     

    If you have an identical drive I would try swapping the printed circuit boards.

    Unfortunately they are identical in size only. One is a WD Caviar Blue, and the other is a Caviar Black.

     

     

     

    Interesting development, i loaded linux mint on a live cd and cleaned the good drive off prior to installation, and whilst i was there i decided what the heck lets test the other disk. It returned no errors... so i restarted and switched boot order. Windows loaded in safe mode...  i think what happened is that i lost power during windows update configuration as after half an hour in repair mode i am running again. Whatever it may be i am running my back up RIGHT now.

     

    Is there any software y'all would recommend to deep test the drive to make sure?


  12. what kind of damage, unless the data was been "erased" like corrupted data and the drive still works, you will have to send it off to a data recovery place that works in a clean room. Its not cheap either, my friend had to pay $1500 for 5gb.

    Not real sure, i went to boot it up this morning and it told me to insert a boot drive. So i turned it off and left it in case i was at risk of doing more damage. 1500 for 5gb? I'm am screwd, thats a 500gb hdd.....

     

    Don't use the drive. AT ALL. Remove it from your computer entirely.

     

    Install an undelete/recovery program on another computer, plug in your drive and scan it.

     

    I use R-Studio, it was expensive but it has saved a lot of stuff.

    Ok i can re-install on another drive, are there any free utilities that i could get some off with or do i need to spring for something expensive?


  13. As anyone in the southeast right now could tell you, we are having some rather severe(for this area) weather. And unfortunately its latest casualty appears to be my desktop hdd.

    I do have my most important files backed up but if possible i would like to try and get the others off.

    So to that end, what would y'all recommend? I have an identical drive i can copy the files to if i can access them, but i have never done this before so the accessing part is where i need help.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Speed

     

    BTW, i do know google could help, but i am kinda busy cleaning up the mess from this storm and have already lost power several times so i hope to have an idea of where to start when i get a chance to work on it rather than starting from scratch.


  14.  

     

    True, but one would create way to large a broadcast domain lol. I was just feeling like being a smart ass today. Who'd a thunk it? :lol:

    So is it worth a shot with 255.255.254.0?

     

    If 255.255.0.0 didn't work then 255.255.254.0 is not going to work either. Are you sure this switch is even functioning correctly? If you have just the switch and a computer plugged into it with an IP of 192.168.1.20, mask of 255.255.255.0, gateway of 192.168.1.1 (not really needed in this instance) then you should be able to access the switch at 192.168.1.10 if it is functioning and configured correctly. Quite honestly I would recommend getting a real switch or resetting the existing switch and do it right to begin with.

     

    That doesn't work either... so yeah i probably ought to pony up for a real switch. Thanks for the help trying to diagnose it.


  15. 255.255.0.0 should let you jump between them.

     

    Why is your network so wonky? :lol:

    Ok, no clue. It worked fine till my ISP messed with it.

     

    Here's a thought...

     

    Right click on the network icon in the lower right task bar (on one of the computers connected to the switch) and then click on "Open Network and Sharing"

    On the window that opens.... near the top it will show a simple diagram of your connection.....click on the network  icon

    In the window that opens....under the "Network Infrastructure" right click on the Icon.....then click on "View device webpage"

    That map is interesting, all it shows is the laptop, the gateway and 'the internet'. At the bottom it lists the other computers and says it cannot add them to the map.

    Something is majorly screwed.


  16. Well i unplugged everything but my laptop and set the laptop's ip to 192.168.1.5

    I still can't connect to the router, but i had a thought: if its on a different subnetwork, do i need a different subnet mask? Its currently on the default 255.255.255.0, but that's what it was on before i switched from 192.168.0.x to 192.168.1.x


  17.  

     

    Ok so if everything gets a 192.168.0.x address dynamically how did the switch end up with a 192.168.1.x address? You have a device on one network (192.168.1.0/24) that has no way to communicate with another network (192.168.0.0/24). The "gateway" device would have to have a route setup so that the traffic from the two networks can communicate. If you were to plug a laptop into the switch with the 192.168.1.0/24 network already manually configured on it I bet you would be able to access and manage the switch from it. As it stands you basically have an invalid network configuration.

    Okay, that makes sense. 

    I really have no clue how it ended up with that IP, as i said as far as i know the gateway serves as a DHCP server as well. So all that said, if it is on a different subnetwork, how does it manage to serve connection to the computers attached to it?

    Thanks for your help Nerm, i will try your suggestion when i get home.

     

    Because it is acting as a switch it is still passing layer 2 traffic so it is essentially being a bridge for the 192.168.0.0/24 network.

     

    Ok, that makes sense. I should be able to test the 192.168.1.x connection here in a little bit.


  18. Ok so if everything gets a 192.168.0.x address dynamically how did the switch end up with a 192.168.1.x address? You have a device on one network (192.168.1.0/24) that has no way to communicate with another network (192.168.0.0/24). The "gateway" device would have to have a route setup so that the traffic from the two networks can communicate. If you were to plug a laptop into the switch with the 192.168.1.0/24 network already manually configured on it I bet you would be able to access and manage the switch from it. As it stands you basically have an invalid network configuration.

    Okay, that makes sense. 

    I really have no clue how it ended up with that IP, as i said as far as i know the gateway serves as a DHCP server as well. So all that said, if it is on a different subnetwork, how does it manage to serve connection to the computers attached to it?

    Thanks for your help Nerm, i will try your suggestion when i get home.

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