Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rofltroll

  1. Myabe he owns one of those Diamond mines down there in South Africa. They still have those, right?
  2. I won't claim to be an expert but I'm not sure OC capability matters from one manufacturer to another and the real difference is the cooling solution, and even if it did it would be a minor difference at best. I think your best bet might be to get either a twin frozr or a Hawk as they have great cooling capabilities and i also hear they are quite silent. As for the card i think the 560Ti is a great choice. I have a GTX 470 Stock which is roughly the same as a 560 Ti and I'm happy with it on my one 1080p monitor setup.
  3. I don't s'ppose you can ship anything to eastern Europe by any chance?
  4. I generally hate all disk based drives. Why wasn't that option included?
  5. I wonder when prices on other cards will start to drop
  6. 1. For CPU go Intel - best bang for buck CPUs out now ( i am talking about the i5 2500k ) 2. For GPU - wait a few months for nVidia Kepler cards. If anything the other cards will go down in price.
  7. I did. I am currently stable at 19x180//turbo on//1.2v vcc//1.295 qtt//1.64 dimmv//HT on 71 degrees with my Titan Fenrir Evo. I am going for 19x185 at these same voltages tonight.
  8. CPU-Z reads cl as being 10 while bios reads it as 7. So i am technically running 1440 CL7 which is fine by me. Should i expect problems tightening them further down to 5 at this freq?
  9. I eventually went for(19*180) 3.4 GHz @ 1.2 Vcore, 1.295 Qtt and 1.64 dimm voltage, Turbo off. Max temps were 71 degrees after 18 hours of prime95. It got to 73 but that's when i realized that i forgot the heating on in my house I am comfortable with these voltages and am going to try again tonight with turbo on at these settings ... next step is tightening the ram since , if i'm reading CPU-Z correctly,it has a CL of 10 @ 1440. The RAM I am using is OCZ Gold 4 GB in dual channel (I'll eventuall go triple channel but right now I'm sticking to what I got) I have absolutely no understanding of overclocking RAM or tightening the timings and was hoping i'd get some advice on that. Appreciate all the posts so far
  10. Latest CPU-Z installed. This configuration i have now seems fine, though (19*180). It actually displays 19 * 180. I've noticed even multipliers are not even possible on my particular chip. All the tests were done at 19x only, exception being the 3.8 GHz one where it just jumped from 20 to 21. I've tried it with other FSBs and it just goes to 21x regardless of turbo.
  11. Can't set it to 21 manually since max is 20 on my board for some reason. The only way to get 21x on my board is via Turbo which,as I said, is off. And I also mentioned that LLC is enabled which gets rid of vdroop. That setting crashed after 15 minutes of Blend anyway, so i've reverted to 3.4 (19x180) lowered both vcore and qtt with 71 degrees Celsius max temps. I am aware that a bit of boost in voltage might have gotten me a stable 3.8 but I prefer lower voltage for the chip's lifecycle sake. And to be clear about something: I'm not concerned, I am just curious why readings in windows are so different from Bios. edit: last sentenced made me sound a little pretentious so i added a smiley next to it.
  12. I've just overclocked my i7 920 D0 from stock to 3.8 GHz (21x180) on a Gygabyte X58 UD3R voltages: vcore = 1.225, qpi = 1.335, dimmv = 1.66 temps : max 75 degrees C Here's my problem: i turned turbo boost off in bios, yet CPU-Z shows it is on (bios settings are 20x180 while RealTemp and CPU-Z shows 21x180); also voltage is way off. When i turn on prime95, CPU-Z will show me I'm running at 3.8 GHz with 1.184 vcore(1.184 while running prime95 and weirdly 1.2 while idle) when i clearly set voltage at 1.225 and multiplier at 20x not 21x. 1 hour into prime95 and no crash so it seems stable, though. EIST, C1E and Turbo have been shut off and LLC has been enabled. Anyone else run into problems like these? Edit: it's and i7 920 D0 more specifically
  13. 6870 beats a 7770. Crossfiring 2 7770 has wild results. In some instances 2x7770 beats a 580 in others they perform worse than a single 6870. I think they might need some driver improvements. If you really feel that you need to upgrade i suggest going 6870. I've noticed prices for the 7770 and the 6870 are relatively the same (in some instances the 7770 was more expensive) and from all the reviews i've read so far there is absolutely no reason to get a 7770 over a 6870.
  14. Any card in that price range won't give you immense performance increase over a 460.It's been said before: wait for the new line of nvidia cards as others might get cheaper. Was going to suggest going SLI with another 460 but I'm not sure if that PSU will hold (definately won't hold if you overclock) or if your mobo supports multiple nvidia cards.
  15. I think that mobo is overkill even if you'll want to crossfire another 7970. I suggest step it down a notch on the mobo and use the remaining money from that to get an HDD as storage since and SSD really won't give you enough space for everything you'll need. The PSU is a great choice ,actually; it is an 80+ platinum meaning that you have plenty of headroom for another 7970 plus overclocking. Also,the CPU heatsink is really good but I'm not so sure about its value. Compare the price of that thermaltake you chose and the Noctua NHD-14 (which is the finest CPU air cooler on the market); I think it's like a 5$ difference in which case i suggest you get the NHD-14(it's also a great thing to show off in your rig ). Last but not least i suggest on getting thermal paste for that extra cooling kick - I suggest Arctic Silver 5.Other than that you have a great rig setup.
  16. Hey there, I was thinking of buying a laptop and one of the retailers here have a sale on an Acer Aspire Laptop: 15.6 HD LED, Intel Core i3-370M 2.26GHz, 3GB DDR3 1066Mhz, 500GB HDD, DVD-RW, GeForce GT 540M 2Gb DDR3. It's 2000 RON (~600$) which is the exact amount of money that I can spare for a laptop. Now I'm fairly new at laptops since i haven't really had one before but there's a question I was hoping you guys could help me answer: Now from what I've read about the video card it automatically switches to the integrated one on the motherboard when not under heavy graphics stressing applications; this feature is called Optimus and it needs to be implemented by the laptop makers as well. My question, however, is whether the onboard graphics will eat up precious Ram from those 3 GB or can it use the VRAM on the videocard. This will be my work laptop and will be mainly used for Visual Studio C, Xilinx, Java etc. and I was going to start programming in CUDA hence the nvidia card which will probably be its main usage. Again, I am a complete noob when it comes to laptops, I'm mainly a desktop PC kind of guy so any input about any of the Laptop's features will be greatly appreciated.
  17. 560 has better performance but maybe you should check out other options. A 6950 might be somewhat the same price of a 560.
  18. I've never heard of that type of PSU, though i haven't stayed in touch much with power supplies since i bought my corsair. Anyway, it's possible that it may not be an 80+ PSU and your GPU might not be getting enough juice. Edit: Oh and everything is overclocked AND you have 2 hard drives. I'm almost certain it's the PSU.
  19. Also the cooler master accelero XTREME Plus II isn't bad, although that's 100 bucks or so. And when i say not bad i mean one of the best on the market and you can use it on a large array of cards. Edit: it was XTREME and not extrem as I originally typed it. Note the UPPER CASE LETTERS thus making it far superior to any other product.
  20. I wouldn't pay 56 bucks for the extra RAM. It won't make much of a difference really. Crysis 2 maxed out with high res textures uses about 1 GB of VRAM from my card(I could be wrong but that's what MSI Afterburner is telling me). Here's my advice though: since you have eyed a reference card (cards that have the stock nVidia cooler) you won't see any difference from one card to another. So I suggest you buy the cheapest 570 you find and with the leftover money save up and buy the Arctic cooling Accelero Xtreme Plus II VGA cooler. I've seen some insane overclocking with that cooler at stable temps - the overclocked card with the arctic cooling cooler had lower temps than the stock card at stock speeds. Also installing it is really easy. The only real drawback is that it might hinder SLI usage since the cooler is so god damned huge. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186048 Only 80$ in America damn. it's 120 here in Romania.
  21. Did you eventually end up buying the NHD14? I have the same case and wish to buy it as well.
  22. My 2 cents: Awesome choice for everything there but I must advise you to look into a non-stock CPU cooling solution: The Titan Fenrir is a great bang for buck cooler from all I've read about it in reviews. Cheap and efficient and i think it would fit into the case you chose as well. Even if you don't want to overclock a hot summer day might prove strenuos on a CPU cooled by a stock heat sink. Newegg seems to be out of stock though. Edit: Also that HDD is the exact same model I use and I keep having trouble with it, although to be honest i wreck HDDs like there's no tomorrow. Edit#2: Here's another bang for buck cooler : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 but i suggest you try and find the Titan Fenrir somewhere.
  23. Damn I wish you lived closer to me cause i could have really used that cooler at that price.
  24. Thing is I have a history with HDDs. I go faster through HDDs than I go through shoes. I can name each and every one of my HDDs that i had since my first rig back in 2000 and I always had problems with them. It's like I'm living in some kind of EMP field. Naturally, I thought that I had been doing something wrong but turns out I'm just unlucky. This rig's first HDD (same model as the one i have now) was taken care of : well ventilated (The HADES NZXT Case has a nice 200 mm fan for intake but blows cool air directly on the HDD as it enters the case), i did not move the case during usage of HDD (this includes not hitting the computer when i get mad - probably why my first 10 GB HDD got burnt << I was 11 DON'T JUDGE ME>>) and the 650 corsair TX provided sufficient and adequate power to it so, yes i took care of it but still it just got slower, more noisy and generally a pain in the a$$. About a month ago, my computer kept booting up randomly but more so before entering windows. I figured it was either the power supply or the HDD so i had them RMA'd. After two weeks they brought me back a new HDD of the exact same model stating that they had replaced it and my former HDD had been rendered completely useless and data could not be saved from it at all. Fair enough. When i got back home to happily install the new HDD i noticed something on opening my case that I never really noticed before: the CPU fan wasn't properly plugged in. Then it hit me in a way very similar to Crysis 2 in DX11 hitting any video card that it was because of my own incompetence as to why my rig would shut down like it did and not because of the HDD i had replaced; which, I might add, worked fine (as fine as any cheap old HDD would,anyway) before my monthly rig maintenance when i most likely plugged the CPU cooler inadequately. So there I was, just wondering(besides,you know, how incompetently stupid I had plugged in my CPU cooler ) why the store guy had said "The HDD you gave us was completely unsalvageable" (or however that's spelled) when it was clearly in working condition. I said to myself "Well the old HDD was slow and probably had a ton of bad sectors and maybe it got splooged on the way to the hardware assessors of that store, so good for me I get a new bad sector free HDD". But a few days after setting my rig back up i started hearing those damned metallic sounds again like on the old HDD and noticed it was getting rather sluggish as well. It's been two weeks since i got the new HDD and I can safely say it's just as slow as the old HDD I had RMA'd and had had for about a year. So in a nutshell i replaced a working yet slow and "bad-sectored" HDD for a new HDD of the same model which is working yet slow and "bad-sectored". It might be an unfortunate coincidence, or maybe this HDD model is just that bad that no matter what, it will always be slow as soon as you get some data on it, but my skepticism leads me to the idea that i was given the same drive back but formated. I won't accuse the company of anything since it's really a great company with great support and everything but when i RMA this HDD i will be leaving a small mark somewhere in a hidden corner to see if they actually change the HDD or if they just format it and give it back to you. Short version: I HATE HDDs.
  • Create New...