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El_Capitan

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Everything posted by El_Capitan

  1. I just saw it tonight. The movie was good, but not great. Like many diehards, my favorite is Empire Strikes Back, then A New Hope, and then Return of the Jedi. The Force Awakens is now 4th, but that's not saying much. The Good: Overall, good main characters all around. I liked Po, BB8, Finn, Rey, Han, and Chewy. I didn't think Kylo Ren's character was that good, and Leia was less snappy, but they weren't bad. It was an enjoyable movie. It had funny moments, sad moments, some good action and landscape visuals. I felt like I was back in the Star Wars universe. Chewbacca's rage moment after Han dies. The Bad: Not enough character development with Po and Captain Phasma. They left out how Po got out of Jakku. Captain Phasma wasn't badass. General Hux's speech was lame, and so was his character. Too much similarities to A New Hope. Black64, you even left out a cantina scene. Too many nods back to A New Hope. The Force Awakening of Rey was just too sudden. She can suddenly force pull and fight with a lightsaber to best the 3rd most powerful force user in the Galaxy (saying Snoke is first, then Luke)? The rest of the Rebellion pilots besides Po. Hey, where's Wedge Antilles? He was the only pilot aside from Luke to survive all 3 episodes of the main trilogy. At least have him as a Rebel pilot instructor. Camera movement was to swooshy, if that's a thing. R2D2's low power mode and sudden Awakening. A stormtrooper decides to stop being a stormtrooper, and then suddenly has good aim. A stormtrooper has Finn dead to rights, but wants to have a lightsaber/electro whatever duel? The Ugly: Horrible, horrible CGI monsters. I can't even find the name of them online. Everyone is just calling them horrible CGI tentacle monsters. Definitely not needed. Han Solo's death was too easy to see coming, and really not the way anyone probably wanted the death of his character to be done.
  2. Updated with pictures and more information. One card pending.
  3. Not sure, then. If all else is the same, maybe one is just better (or one is worse) than the other?
  4. Yeah, I know. Let's keep it in the OCC mail so we don't keep bumping this thread.
  5. The slower one probably has more data on it while the faster one doesn't?
  6. Yeah, was about to put them up for sale on overclock.net and hardforum since no one else got back to me.
  7. We could go in depth, but I think it's all a moot point. Overclocking is free, even if it doesn't help in any of the games that said person plays, then it will obviously help in any compute tasks used by the CPU. Higher overclocking usually entails a better CPU cooler, better TIM, and sometimes a better PSU and sometimes delidding. Better/other CPU's and Motherboards also have a stake in higher overclocks, but not always. Price/worth is relative.
  8. Lol, but three 5 star ratings and only $8 after shipping!
  9. I just buy the $1000 CPU and $1000 GPU and I'm good. I don't need to buy a $100 used CPU and a used $200 GPU and overclock them to have them perform similarly in 95% of games.
  10. Having a toddler complicates things. Hoping to find a babysitter, else I'll be away from social media, news, etc. for a while.
  11. Replied to PM's, sorry for any late responses.
  12. Two great MSI GTX 970 4G cards available. Good overclockers, and both ASIC's are at 80.9%. Perfect for SLI. Get both, get an extra $20 off.
  13. Only problem is mine are all delidded.
  14. If at 1080P, then you don't need to go any higher than those 2 options.
  15. Here's what I wrote to a friend a while back (with some edits). 1. Recording - For recording a range of instruments, you'll want something like a Mackie 802VLZ4, 8-channel Ultra Compact Mixer with High Quality Onyx Preamps ($200), but if you don't need that many channels, you could get by with the Mackie 402VLZ4, which is half the price ($100). Voice recording - I currently have a Shure SM7B, which is a dynamic microphone. I got it via Massdrop for $300. By far the best microphone for the price. However, it needs at least 60dB to drive it, and cranking many pre-amps to this level brings in a good bit of noise. Which brings me to: Pre-amps for Microphones - If voice recording is really important with low noise output with the Shure SM7B, then you really need two things: a Cloud Microphones Cloudlifter CL-1 ($150), and a Golden Age Preamp-73 DLX ($500). The Cloudlifter CL-1 will provide 20dB of clean gain before it goes to the preamp, and the GAP-73 is the best non-pro enthusiast single channel preamp out there, and will provide up to 80dB gain, way more than you'll need to drive the Shure SM7b, and probably no noise. You might be able to get by with the GAP-73 MKII ($350) with the Cloudlifter CL-1, and still get no noise. Other Microphone options - I got a used Blue Yeti Pro for $165, but they are $220 new. It's a USB Condenser microphone that has 24-bit/192 kHz digital recording resolution with an analog XLR output. Definitely another great option, and you don't need so much gain to drive it, making it a cheaper overall option. There are also Ribbon microphones out there, but I know nothing about them. 2. Mixing - Recording the output, you'll either want a mixer (which I mentioned above), and have it output onto a computer (using a software DAW - Digital Audio Workstation), or record the output using an external recorder. I'm still playing around with this right now, and most likely the software DAW is where I'm focusing. There are free DAW's, and I actually bought a $50 one. One of the best ones out there is Avid Pro Tools 11, but I think it's around $700, but it goes on sale for $300 every couple of months. If you can deal with the free DAW's or the $50 one, then I'd stick with that. However, for the Avid Pro Tools 11 at $300, it's a great deal. 3. Listening - For listening, you'll want a good pair of reference headphones. "Reference" means that they don't tweak anything. What you hear is exactly how it's supposed to sound from the source. I use an AKG K7XX First Edition I got from Massdrop for $199. It's the best headphones for the price out there. However, for listening while mixing, you want something that doesn't leak out sound, which is what they call "Studio" headphones. For that, I use the AKG K553 Pro Studio Headphone ($120). DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) - If you're using a computer, a dedicated sound card is good enough. You can find Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD's around the $70 range, and I have a couple of those, and just replaced the op-amps with two LME49720NA's. The same with ASUS Xonar Essence STX's, though they're harder to find, and closer to the $90 range used. New, forget about it. I also replaced the op-amps with two LME49720NA's. If you want to go one step higher, get a SMSL M8 ($180), or go full bore with the Grace Design m920 ($1500), which is a standalone amp/DAC/pre-amp. Amplifier - I use the cheapest option, which is a LP-2020A+ Lepai Tripath Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply ($20). Sometimes you get a bit of noise, so the next best thing would be a JDS Labs Objective 2. You can put it together yourself for $69, but you'll need to buy the battery and power adapter, solder the parts yourself, and then find an enclosure for it. Or for twice the price, have it put together by JDS Labs. If you still get noise, then you'll want to get something cleaner. However, I don't get any noise at the volume I listen to, so I stick with what's cheapest. DAC + Amp combo - Most mixers are pretty expensive, so I won't throw that in as an option right now. Probably the best DAC + Amp combo for the price is a Creative Labs E5. If you buy direct from Creative Lab's website, there are promo codes for either $10 to $40 off. I think the price is currently $200. Hope that helps. I started out really small, and upgraded piece by piece. If the overall sound was much better, then I kept the upgrade, if I didn't, I returned it, or sold it. I suggest you doing the same, because the fact of the matter is, what you create needs to sound how you want it to sound, so you can't rely on others making your choices for you. Plus, if you can get by with the sound you like for cheap, then you don't need to spend hundreds or even thousands to achieve it.
  16. Yeah, I have everything I want, just found a few deals for friends and family, but nothing for me this time around.
  17. Keep it simple. 1. Create a fan speed profile where the fan is at 100% at 72C. At 72C, the GTX 980 will start to throttle. You can set the minimum to something like 30% fan speed at 30C so it's quiet when idle. 2. Overclock just the Core Clock first. Up the Core Clock to 100, apply, then save. Run a single pass of Unigine Heaven 2.1. Keep track of the Average FPS. It's still the most stable benchmarking tool that I use. My overclocks will pass any other benchmark, but fail at Unigine Heaven 2.1, so that's why I still use it. Settings: Tessellation = Extreme Anisotrophy = 16 Anti-aliasing = 8x Full screen at your native resolution My ASUS GTX 980 Strix I gave to my friend had a Core Clock overclock at 1508MHz Core Clock (Boost). You can see what your speed is by looking at the max (in red) for Core Clock in MSI Afterburner. If at 100 Core Clock (in MSI), it pass Unigine Heaven 2.1, up it to 150. If it passes there, go to 200. If it fails, hit the reset button in MSI Afterburner, and lower it to 190, and reset your monitor history by right-clicking it in MSI Afterburner. If it fails, go down to 180 and repeat. 3. Do the same tests and method as #2, but with only Memory Clock. The Strix I mentioned above got to 3851MHz Memory Clock. It will crash hard if it's too high, so you might need to do a hard reboot. Sometimes it will also pass Unigine Heaven 2.1, but your average FPS will be lower. That means it's still not stable. Once that's all done, you found your stock overclock for both Core Clock and Memory. If you want to do the advanced stuff, you'll want to read about it at Overclock.net's Official GTX 980 club. It entails copying your BIOS, modding your BIOS to increase TDP along with other things, and then flashing to your modded BIOS so you can increase your TDP to 126% or whatever. Mine only got to 1534MHz Core Clock with the extra 126% TDP, so it wasn't worth it for me. Good luck, hope that helps.
  18. Well, it all depends on how much you want to splurge for your son's upgrade, and the amount of impact it will actually have. For gaming, 95% of games will utilize all the work on the graphics card, so pick something good for that. If he's staying at 1080P, then a GTX 780 3GB or GTX 970 4G is as high as you need to go. For the 5% of games that also utilize the CPU for physics or what not, then 6 slower cores is still better than 4 faster cores, depending on how the code is optimized for multithreading. Some games it might be the opposite, where 4 faster cores will be better than 6 slower cores. At any rate, a good CPU cooler and a simple 4.4GHz overclock on either solves that problem. For CPU overclocking, you need the K-series to really overclock, and an overclocking motherboard. Once you pick a CPU, we can help with the motherboard options. However, the K-series CPU's do not support vPro and Trusted Execution Technology. This doesn't mean a whole lot unless security is a big issue (and for his uses, it won't be). The only Intel CPU K-series chip that has ever allowed vPro and Trusted Execution Technology is the Ivy Bridge 3770K (but it didn't allow VT-d). At any rate, I would ignore all this mumbo jumbo, I'm just providing extra information you don't have to look up. For coding/development, having a lot of memory is very useful. I typically need at least 12GB of memory available when I'm working on something. Sometimes I'm hitting 24GB if I'm also working heavily on Oracle database stuff, but I don't think your son will be at that level for a while now.
  19. For a tablet, a microSD card is just more convenient. If you want cheap, you can always buy multiple fast 64GB microSD cards rather than one big fast one. If you want cheap, but big, just get a SSD and a SATA to USB adapter, and then another USB to microUSB adapter. Or, if you want to go a bit smaller, a mSATA SSD, and a mSATA to USB housing adapter, and a USB to microUSB adapter.
  20. 2 dedicated gaming PC's (3930K @ 4.6GHz, one with two GTX 980's in SLI at 110Hz and one with two R9 290X's in Xfire at 110Hz). Xbox One Playstation 4 I hardly use the Xbone or PS4 for gaming, mostly for streaming.
  21. OCC's always been kind of slow in the forums since I joined, which was like 5 years ago. What I usually at every site are veterans still helping the newcomers out some of the time, but most of them branching out to more advanced or specialized areas. Some have a go at custom modding, custom watercooling, unlocking voltages for graphics cards for higher overclocking, etc. Others probably just check in and see what's going on time to time (like me), but there really isn't much in the hardware world right now. For CPU's, there's no competition for Intel for the desktop world since AMD's departure from competing with them a couple years ago. For graphics cards, it's been kind of the same thing. Nothing but rebrands, rebadging, or whatever for the last few years for AMD. Nothing to really get excited about. I still overclock, custom watercool, and fix a few hardware stuff every once in a while, but that's about it. Heck, most of my time gaming is on my phone and tablet (stupid Clash of Clans). There's tons to do on a PC, but my systems are so fast, it hardly takes any time to do anything on them.
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