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About WarWeeny

  • Rank
    Charizard on the streets, snorlax in the sheets
  • Birthday 08/20/1988

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  • Location
    leeuwarden / netherlands
  • Interests
    gaming, pc's, japan, music


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  • Computer Specs
    Intel i5 2500K @4.5GHz
    Asrock mitx
    8GB ddr3 1600MHZ
    GTX 760 2GB
    256GB SSD
    600W PSU
    Windows 7

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  1. If you really are concerned about temps, just put it at 4GHz. This should be easily doable with lower voltages and you will not notice it in games.
  2. With 1440P he wouldn't notice, since the GPU is at the front line then. Even Ryzen 1600 can handle a 1080Ti fine, CPU bottlenecks are a thing of the past with hexacores being the standard.
  3. The charger is warm, but not "hot" per-se. The battery itself is cool, does not feel warm, but that could be because of the casing, it has a shroud covering it.
  4. Alright, i figured the battery was defect, but i still have a concern. If i leave the charger in for its use for the rest of the time, does this have any dangers like overheating the battery (or overcharging so to say) since the laptop is in constant charging mode, or is it safe for as long as i use the laptop while it is in the charger and leave it out when i do not use it?
  5. Nobody? #SadLife Guess i need to send it back, i hoped some hidden guru's knew some nice tricks to get it back up again
  6. So i got myself a fancy laptop a while ago (June 2016) and it did what it need to do quite well. Currently i have the laptop on the charger and it is stuck on 93%, but the laptop says it is still charging. This has been going on for a few hours now, it will not go on green so to say (orange when charging, green when full) i looked at the battery report that windows made, but i am not becoming any wiser lol. i unplug the charger when watching movies or typing reports and the like, until windows prompts me to say to plug it in if it is at 10%. iI did this in hopes of decreasing a "lazy battery" pattern, but i guess it did not help me if i see the symptoms it has now. Hopefully someone here knows whats up. i just bluntly copied pasted the data in a notepad file, sorry for the jumpy text. battery report.zip
  7. Regarding the clicking sound, it only clicks once, after that, i would not hear it unless i reboot the system. Pagefile options did not give me any immediate answers, so i guess it could be something else (i already disabled power savings, in case people wondered, so it does not turn of every x minutes) The "server execution failed" error only comes after the 100% "bug" is going away, otherwise, it never shows up.
  8. So every so often my HDD goes to 100% out of nowhere (usually when i watch a video) and stays there for a minute or 2 before backing down and resuming as usual. Afterwards i get an error saying "server execution failed" - but i am not connected to the internet most of the time (laptop, only go to library for internet stuff like emails and shit) and i do not get this error all the time (it comes and goes about once a month? if even that). Also, when i access a file (like playing a video) the HDD "clicks" before attempting to play it, but it does not do that after it has done that initially (so all the things i do after it, it does not "click") i just assuming this has to do with accessing the data on the disk, so i am not that worried about this, but i thought i'd give it a mention. I crystal-disk check the disk, everything seems healthy, but i am still a bit worried. Also did a disk check in windows itself. Do i have a setting enabled that does this or is this a problem in windows 10 itself (anniversary update installed). I backed up some important files, just in case the HDD is failing (although it only is about a year old). So am i doing something wrong here, are my settings not right, or is my HDD failing on me already? I have added a crystaldisk info screenshot if anything peculiar can be found there. I thought i'd ask here for some answers.
  9. Damn, ray tracing is finally going to be a thing for benchmarks, it should be interesting to see where this is going. Hopefully we are not too far off when games are using the technology, this could improve image quality and fidelity by quite a margin.
  10. If the board is compatible, you could go for the i7 4xxx series instead of going ryzen (seeing you need to upgrade quite a bit before you go to a new platform) i7 is a good improvement these days, especially when it comes to gaming performance (see digital foundry's video's (youtube) for this, they have a good comparison video there) Otherwise, if you are not lacking any performance now, just keep what you have, it is still a good system and should carry you well into 2018 before showing any real bottlenecks.
  11. <- is a computer engineer. <--- is not a computer engineer ;P figured it would be something like that though. On a different note, digital foundry did an extensive review of the chip (1800x) and did some interesting benchmarks with certain settings, in case people are still hungry for some extra information that has not been processed in this review.
  12. A 65W chip running at 4 GHz and 1.4 volts will generally run the same as a 95W chip at 4 GHz and 1.4 volts. They're all the same silicon, and they won't vary by much. The only reason the 1700 is a "65 watt" chip is because it's clocked lower at lower voltages. Once you change that, it's going to use a LOT more power. Hmm sounds plausible/sensible
  13. Hmm, based on the articles posted, a 60 degrees is a lot more tolerable than 80+. Hopefully we get a decent and accurate temperature measurement tool this time around, bulldozer was all over the place and ususally ended up "not supported" in most temperature reading tools i have used (real temp didn't support it, and core-temp gave weird readings for example)
  14. Just wait for the "gen 2" chips (first i7 920 vs the glorious 2600K anyone?) an di am pretty sure the performance is going to be a lot better. Or so i hope.
  15. Overclocking makes it...not a 65W chip. Well, considering the extra load, compared to the 95W chip the temps aren't that much different, which is strange to me. I am not an engineer, so I am probably wrong here, but ehh, if you have a 65W chip and a 95W chip, when both are overclocked, one would say the 65W chip would still run cooler than the 95W chip, but when i see the benchmarks online that include temps, the difference is not that much.
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