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Everything posted by Guest_Jim_*

  1. You can always put the desktop somewhere it can't be seen from the door. The desktop will also be behind a locked door when you're not there (depending on the roommate you may have) and a cheap laptop can still have a laptop lock and computrace plus the added protection of not being so tempting. Look, do what you want, but be aware that laptops are far more easily damaged (my first laptop cost $2000, and the motherboard failed twice on me just past the warranty), more easily stolen, more easily lost and so on. If you must get a powerhouse laptop, I would look around at more than just Alienware, just because of pricing. Also, if you are serious about just the one computer and for college, get the extended warranty so it is covered until you get your degree. Took months to get my laptop RMA'd (failed in like July and didn't get the RMA number until November or something), but probably would've been days if it were under warranty. Some say it's a waste of money, but if you're out of commission like that for finals, and need your computer, all you'll get is sympathy. My current laptop was $1000, haven't had any problems with it, and got a three year extended warranty on it, for under $400. That may seem like a lot, but still cheaper than the $2000 laptop, $216 RMA for the motherboard, and eventually just a $2216 paperweight (bought my current laptop while waiting on this one getting RMA'd, so didn't bother with getting it fixed again). Funniest part, to me, was that I even asked if I could get a warranty on the replacement motherboard, but only a 60 or 90 day standard warranty could be applied. Guess how long it was before it failed, again? I'll tell you the whole story if you want.
  2. Keep the desktop if you can, especially if it's fully functional, and get a cheaper laptop to take to classes. Besides you wouldn't want a computer to fail on you and not have a backup. First thing you need to do is figure out what it is that you need. I take my laptop with me to school everyday, but I only use it when I've got nothing to do at work. If you just need something for taking notes on in class, checking email, and light web browsing when you're not at home or in the dorms or apartments, then a cheap netbook would work. That's essentially what they're designed for.
  3. We were due for New Every Two when that released, so I got it on launch day. Love it. Personally, I'd prefer not have that much Google in my life, but wanted to try a smart phone. When I compared the different smart phone OS's, Android made the most sense to me, and with the Sense UI, it's even better. I really like my Incredible. The only complaint I've seen anyone lob at it (hardware wise) seems to be the topographic back cover. It doesn't bother me though. Actually some of the curves fit my hand and how I hold the phone pretty well. Having a 1GHz Snapdragon and 512 MB of RAM also helps. (My first computer came with 512 MB of RAM, and didn't the Xbox 360 start at 128 MB or 256 MB?) Nope.
  4. When I first click on a link from a subscribed to thread notice it brings me to the first post in the thread. Clicking it again then takes me to the newest post as it should have to begin with. Great work so far!
  5. Actually that is something you do NOT want to do with some newer motherboards like mine. The CPU fan plug will have its power controlled by the BIOS, unless over rided by something like AMD Overdrive, because if the CPU isn't hot, then the fan on it doesn't need to go so fast. A water pump though, at least for the H50, so always be going and always at full speed, so that modulation would be a bad thing. Instead, I have the push-pull fans on the radiator hooked up to the CPU fan plug. Here's how I've finally got it all plugged in. The radiator fans are connected to the CPU fan plug (using a nifty PWM splitter). The pump is connected to the PSU fan plug, without issue so far. A RAM cooler that came with my Corsair RAM is connected to the Case fan plug, that was having the issue with the pump. I then also have a side fan connected to a fan controller that gets power from a peripheral plug. And it is all working great. The CPU stays around 44-45C with normal use (about 5-6C cooler than previously), the MB is at 35C consistently (an increase of 3C or so), the HD 5770 is at 59-60C with constant 99% activity from folding (this is a few degrees cooler), the GTS250 is at 54C again under full load from folding, which is the same as it was before, probably because it is so far from new fans and such. Also, the new cooling setup has succeeded in moving at least one hot spot. I keep my desktop under my desktop, and before the top fan was blowing hot air up onto the bottom of the desk surface, where it spread out and would pass over the keyboard. Now, with the two fans pushing air out the back, that warm air hits a wall and disperses. So my initial impressions of this system tell me it is working as I had hoped it would, by moving the heat out of the case and also away from me.
  6. Can you get a single client to work? It would most likely be the one for the GPU running the display.
  7. So, this morning I boot up my computer as usual, so that it can fold while I'm at school, and it suddenly shuts itself down. Apparently that issue with the CPU temp rising is still present. I didn't have much time to play with it, and won't be home for several hours now, but I think I've figured out what the problem is, based on the fix I have going right now. It appears to me that the motherboard was not supplying enough power through the pump (which was connected to the Case Fan plug). I currently have it connected to a different spot, not an ideal place really, but I can fix that later, and the system was running fine when I left. If I'm right, I don't know why the power plug would be acting like this, especially as the computer did boot up fine at one point yesterday, and continued to run happily. If I'm wrong, then I have no idea what the trouble is. When I get home I'm going to try connecting the pump to the PSU Fan plug on the motherboard and see if that works. Currently I have it connected to a splitter that is connected to a voltage controller I had been running the side fans on. The controller is at full speed, so hopefully the computer will still be on when I get home. Any ideas about what this issue is and possibly how to fix it?
  8. So the stuff came on Thursday and today I managed to put it all in. The actual installation wasn't too bad, though there were some annoying aspects to it, primarily how cables were routed in the case by the manufacturer. So, I've got the H50 in with push-pull going (pushing out of the case, not in) and start up the computer. I first go to the BIOS to see what the temps are there, and as I look at the screen the CPU temperature not so slowly, but very much surely, climbs up and up, until I shut down the computer (at 72C). I restart it, and watch again it as it rises, but the system shuts itself off at 51C. Very perplexed by this I try switching around some cables, to no avail. Pulled the heat sink off of the CPU to make sure the cooler was in contact, and it was, but still the temperatures climb. I do not know what it was, but eventually the temperature decided not to climb anymore and was hanging at 38-39C in the BIOS. My best guess is that either the power connector to the pump wasn't working (it's in the case fan plug, and the BIOS was not always reporting an RPM for that) or the temperature sensor for the CPU was wonky for a bit. In any case, my system is now working fine. Not only is the CPU temperature a bit lower, at least at idle (haven't pushed it yet) but the GPU temps are lower. The ATI card is about 3-4C lower and the nVidia is also a few degrees cooler. I did have to remove one of the side fans in the case, that was pulling air out, because I think it was hitting a tube, and having it there raised the CPU temp a little (about a degree, but the temperature dropped whenever I removed the fan, so I know it was causing it). Everything appears to be working fine now. Thank you all for your advice.
  9. There is one piece of information we could use; do neither of the GPU clients work, or does one come up but not the other? If one works and the other not, then this is one of the errors I was getting when I worked on my setup. Found that having both set to -gpu 0 and using the -forcegpu atr_r700 and -forcegpu nvidia_g80 worked. You may have just missed it when writing the post, but the nvidia force is g80 not just 80. Did you check the machine ID's? While the -cpu flag may be pointing to the same GPU, the clients will still need different ID's. Here's part of my config files: machineid=2 bigpackets=big extra_parms=-gpu 0 -forcegpu ati_r700 machineid=3 bigpackets=big extra_parms=-gpu 0 -forcegpu nvidia_g80 I hope this helps, and good luck.
  10. You can also look at the thread I had here, Good GPU for PhysX and Folding. I did follow all of the instructions in the sticky, though with the most up-to-date files, but my thread also has what I had to do to get both of my cards to fold.
  11. Was going to make this an edit, but wanted to make sure you saw it, Danrik. Just some more information on the situation. As I said, the problem is being worked on. In fact one patch has already been released to try to help, but it hasn't gotten everything. According to one of the employees, the bug appeared after the last beta test, so they hadn't seen it. Hopefully it will be fixed soon enough to push the numbers up even higher than the DLC has alone. Just go to the Shattered Horizon Forums and you'll see. One person, at least, is reporting improvements from the 9.12 ATi Drivers.
  12. Apparently with the new patch came at least one glitch that is dropping framerates down considerably. Some people were at 60FPS at med-high settings and are now only pulling 10-20 at the lowest settings. Futuremark is working on it. I am one of the fortunate ones, as apparently the HD 5770 is not effected (only performance drop I've seen is probably from full servers), but the 5800's, 4800's, and even the GTX 200's out there are having issues. Every thread I see at the SH forums or on Steam about the performance drop makes me smile a little bit, as my $150 5770 is doing better than some considerably more expensive options. That has been one investment I am very glad to have made.
  13. On page 44 of the manual for your motherboard it says the setting is under "Integrated Peripherals," specifically, "OnChip SATA Type." The options are Native IDE, RAID, and AHCI. BIOS Main Menu Integrated Peripherals Menu
  14. I'm in for the OCC squadron, and I'm Guest_Jim_* in Steam as well (not too creative with names). Add me if you want as well.
  15. I suggest Koss. Not only are they good headphones, and based in Milwaukee, but they also have a "No-Questions-Asked Lifetime warranty." I have the PRO4AAAT, which you can get cheaper at Amazon ($102), but they do have some cheaper models (mine are the second most expensive non-electrostatic driven headphones). They are very good headphones, and I do have fairly discerning ears (can hear the difference between SACD and CD playback, if that means anything to you).
  16. And I'll be the when with the red dot on my head. (Curiously, people are getting a lot more head shots on me now. Like half or more of my deaths are head shots.)
  17. I've got a few issue with the update, but overall, great! (Would be nice if the railgun would fire straight at shorter ranges for no scope kills, and pulling out the grenade pistol takes too long in my opinion.) They added the ability to break the reload animation and, at least the scoped sniper rifle, no longer shakes. The matches I played yesterday were definitely more frantic and intense. Could be from the number of people playing, but I'm thinking it is also from the new weapons. If you have Shattered Horizon, definitely try out the new weapons. If you don't have Shattered Horizon, get it! Finally, the pick actually only looks slow. The kill is registered before it makes contact. Checkout the screenshot I have from the Firepower Trailer. That mask even broke before contact. PS. Favorite new weapon: Railgun (sniper)
  18. The AMD system will not, at stock, run the RAM at 1600MHz. If you overclock, then go for the faster memory, which I think is the exact same as what I have in my system, so I know it starts the RAM at 1333 and not the timings Corsair says they can do. One advantage of going with the slower memory is that it will be cheaper. If it is the same as what I have, you could possibly get twice as much RAM for roughly the same price, and still Corsair.
  19. I have to ask. The original poster was split between a 5850 and two 5770's and has said the 5830 he already has won't be used, so why are we still talking about the 5830? If he has the money for the 5850 and likes it he should get as it is the better option.
  20. Vader wasn't evil, he was misunderstood . Really, of the original trilogy characters, looking back at them now, he's my favorite. Most complex and layered. But that's for a different thread. Regardless, if Vader gives you directions, you know you should take them!
  21. I was wondering how to get that. Would you please give me a strand.
  22. Don't forget that the same series cards can be Crossfired, not just the same exact card. So, he could connect the 5830 and the 5850, and get slightly better performance than two 5830's. Of course, a 5830 will be cheaper, but this is another option available to you. If the first two digits match, they can crossfire.
  23. From a purely economically view point, as I only own one 5770 (and am very pleased with it), if the choice is a 5850 or two 5770's I'd recommend the 5850. The 5770's may perform better, but unless you need that much performance now, you could add a second 5850 later. Since the price of two 5770's seems about the same as a single 5850, getting the 5850 opens up an upgrade path the 5770's would already be utilizing (crossfire). Again, this is just based on the fact that two 5770's appear to be the same price as one 5850, and not personal experience with a crossfire setup or the performance of a 5850.
  24. Apparently the manual says to mount it as an intake, but several reviews I have seen have said that while the CPU will be cooler that way, the heat in the case went up, which is what I'm trying to avoid. Since I'm planning on setting up a push/pull for it, I'm not too worried about that, and will keep the the fans directed to exhaust. Unfortunately I do not have the room for it. The only place with room for two 12cm fans like that is on the side panel. So that would be fine, if I never wanted to open the case again. I'll probably place the order tomorrow evening. The H50 and Antec SpotCool from Newegg (and a few other things I need), and two PWM controlled fans and PWM splitter from Frozen CPU. I'm not sure which fans to get, but I'm leaning towards these Akasa Apache fans. One review of H50 I've read said that, according to Corsair, the fan is an Akasa already. If I decide not to get those, then I would probably get a pair of the Scythe's from Frozen CPU. Figure that out tomorrow, and, again, any recommendations for fans are welcome. The only issue with recommending the fans for the H50 is that I want them to be PWM controlled, which does not seem very easy to find (of course, I may not be looking in the right places). Thank you all again for your recommendations.
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