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Everything posted by Brutality

  1. Okay thanks, but he is still scared of WC (water leakage, even though it's not gonna happen lol), so only going with air hehe EDIT. Boom! He ordered the Overseer now Now we are just waiting till it arrives so we can see what is included (really seems like everything is included, according to edbpriser.dk.... but time will tell), and then we shall order fans (still awaiting recommendations for the 120mm )
  2. Overseer it is then So, the "fan on the side will mess up airflow" is a myth? Anyways, I will need one (two if side-fan myth is a myth) 200mm x 200mm x 30mm and one 120mm x 120mm x 25mm fan then What do you guys recommend? As always, price (almost) doesn't matter (as long as it's reasonable)... we want the most cooling, without too many dBs (or annoying sounds)
  3. I see... well then it's either the Tt Overseer or the HAF X... I will wait for ComputerEd's reply to this hehe Thanks vandreadstriker
  4. Hmm, perhaps we should just go with that then and then we'll buy all the fans we need from the start and I'll set it up for him... EDIT: hard to decipher from the edbpriser.dk if all fans you are talking about are included http://www.edbpriser.dk/kabinet/thermaltake-overseer-rx-i-id-5470168.aspx If all the fans you are talking about aren't included, can you tell me which we need to buy? EDIT2: looking at this, it doesn't seem like all fans are included http://dungeondogz.blogspot.com/2012/03/thermaltake-overseer-rx-i-case-review.html argh why do they always write things so crypticly EDIT3: Prolly best to look on official sites... http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=c_00001803 So it seems only 1 front, 1 top and 1 rear fan is included (I assume when it says optional, it means not included - at least it was like this with my DF-85) So we should get another top and buttom fan..... but I heard adding a side-fan may mess up the air-flow (best to have "1-way" airflow (from front to rear), and not get some air throwed in from the side which brakes the air-flow.... or something like that) BTW: Don't you mean 120 for the rear? or can we fit a 140 there (although it says 120 on the site... but that's stock ofc )
  5. Yeah, but my mate is not much of a modder, he just buys stock items, plug them in and play I've even tried to convince him to overclocking but to no avail xD So I'm just looking for the best GPU-cooling stock case
  6. okai, I'll ask him to take a pic of the case then. I don't think he has any limits, he just wants the best, and it doesn't matter who the retailer/seller is, nor do I think the color or form factor matters, and he doesn't have WC.. so no requirements for that.... just maximum GPU cooling (although he prolly just needs a decent case and he's settled... but might as well maximize GPU cooling since that's his problem) EDIT: Ofc the form factor has to be at least ATX ? EDIT: Thanks for the recommendations, the HAF 932 gets beaten by the Cosmos II and NZXT Swtich 810, but I am not sure about the HAF X, haven't quite been able to compare it to the two others So, I just realized the price of the Cosmos II and I am not sure if he is willing to pay that much for a case hehe (but I don't know, haven't asked him), but I believe he would buy the NZXT Switch 810 at least (price-wise) EDIT2: Ran through all 2010 and 2011 case reviews (in addition to 2012), but found no reviews (other than the review of it self), where HAF X was compared with... so no clue which one is best of the three (Cosmos II, Swtich 810 or HAF X)
  7. His GPU is barely 6 months old, so I bet its TIM is still fresh and working as intended, so I don't think it would help just buying a new GPU when the cooling in his case is so crap that it will overheat whatever GPU he fits in there His case is small and he doesn't seem to bother with trying to fit in new case fans, he just want a new and reasonable case instead of that crap-case he got hehe And his GTX-470 does not like being over 95*C.. even though they say at NVIDIA it can handle 105*C, his FPS drops to like 1 when it goes over 95*C.. and comes back to "normal" FPS when the fans get it below 95*C again... but this happens like 1-2 times per minute, so it's barely playable.. I can't remember but I think he's got carpet where his computer is standing, and that doesn't help cooling so I really think he should get a nice cooling case which can handle his circumstances I could only find the Thermaltake Overseer RX-1 case to be sold for us Danes, is it the same case? http://www.edbpriser.dk/kabinet/thermaltake-overseer-rx-i-id-5470168.aspx BTW: Thanks for the quick replies!
  8. So my friend is hitting 98*C with his GTX-470, and since we are seeing high temps in general with his case (can't remember brand and model) we decided he should probably get a new case with some better cooling since good airflow is crucial to cooling a GPU. Back when I was upgrading case I believe I found the Antec DF-85 to be the best (1 year ago), but since it's been 1 year, maybe there's come a better case in the meantime. At the moment I only went through the 2012 reviews here at OCC, and found the CM Cosmos II Ultra, Enermax Fulmo GT and NZXT Switch 810 to be the best "GPU-coolers", but I haven't quite been able to compare them with the DF-85, and at the moment I am bobbing my head (falling asleep), so I am gonna turn to OCC (well was gonna do anyways, but would've preferred to researched a bit more until) What case should my mate buy to minimize the temperature on his GTX-470? Cheers and thanks in advance :-) As always, <3 u OCC cuz I can always turn to you and get the best answers
  9. I don't think so, see attachment for my "setup". The it's never in contact with that doormat, but it sits on that plastic mat which protects my floor from any damage my chair can do =p What's a chassis intruded error? I haven't experienced any random restarts, but I have experienced sometimes it didn't want to boot properly, which I later found out/assumed was unstable overclock and fixed by adjusting voltages. If you see anything that could damage my computer in the pic, please let me know - might as well prevent some future fails if I can... EDIT: Uploaded a pic with curtains drawn (like it is normally - only pull the curtains to the side when I need to bring fresh air in) - notice how I placed my router so the curtains don't block too much airflow xD
  10. ? Yeah lol... but glad I found a solution either way =P
  11. Actually wasn't a cold bug... it was because I had increased PCH voltage to 1.1V (I read somewhere, can't find the post now, grrrr.... but I read that a too high PCH can cause random BSODs.. so I decreased it back to 1.05 and now I can use my computer with the door open xD)
  12. I think it's a cold bug then.. cuz I tried rebooting after it happened the first time and it froze again after 1 min... The second time I waited for the system to "heat up" again and there were no issues then
  13. Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations. Meh, I'll try to open the door again tomorrow, and if the same happens I'll put the system to stock and try again... It could also be my HDD (cool I won a SSD which I was planning to use once I finished overclocking (I heard the process of overclocking can corrupt hdd/system files, so wanna find my stable overclocks and then go to the SSD with that)) http://www.overclock.net/t/1111257/bsod-0x9c-whats-causing-it/10
  14. Update: May not have been the voltages which was the cause of the 0x9c... http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=188758
  15. About a week ago I opened the door to the outside in my room to bring some fresh air in... now it's pretty cold in Denmark this time, so the outside temp was like 5*C while my room temp is 20ish... My PC is right at the door, so it gets all the cold air right in its face... and after 10 mins I got a 0x9c... at that time I didn't think it was due to the chill, but I thought my system had gone unstable (although it has been stable for some weeks (since last time I fiddled with overclocking), so I was a bit confused and a bit shocked (I hate BSODs =P). so I shut the system down and opened my laptop to research on 0x9C.. and after a while I booted the system up and upped the vCore.. took some stability tests (IBT for 20 passes and some prime95)... even took 7 passes of Memtest and a chkdsk with all options... nothing was wrong with my system at that point... Now, a week later (30 mins ago actually), it was time to get some fresh air in again..and the same happened.. This is when I thought maybe it was due to the rapid cooling.. so I just shut down the system and waited a while after being done with the open door.. booted up again and no problem so far... Can a 0x9c be caused by rapid cooling, or do I need to check my system? If that's the case then I'll just use the windows to bring fresh air in... I just used the door to bring in more fresh air - not a problem if I can only do that in the summer times
  16. I just read about SSD caching, but I don't quite understand it. Is it something worth doing? Or is it better just to have an SSD as main drive and HDD as secondary (storage) My top priority for my computer is gaming performance
  17. It's best to avoid having voltages set to auto, to avoid crazy overvolting when overclocking. Note the value it says to the right of it and change it to that (so it's manually at that voltage, instead of auto). Good idea to refer to the motherboard manual and keep the voltages in the safe range. On my p8p67 pro rev 3.0 it's safe to stay in the yellow colour code. When you hit the temperature wall (good idea to stay below 72.4*C), you can try to decrease secondary voltages (VCCIO/VCCSA/PLL/PCH); What I did was: Set VCCSA to 0.935v, set VCCSA to recommended voltage for your dimms (don't know for 1600MHz, like I said it was 1.12-1.14 for 2133MHZ, so I put mine to 1.1375), set PCH voltage to 1.05. Now it's time to see how low your PLL voltage can go without losing stability (BTW: Only enable PLL Overvoltage when going 4.7GHz or higher, no need lesser frequencies on SB). So drop your PLL in small increments and test for stability until you reach instability.. Then put it back to when it was stable. At this point you can also try to drop your vCore (often a low PLL will allow you to become stable at a lower vCore, thus causing lower temps - credit to Nuclear for this one) Having found your lowest stable secondary voltages you can now try to get it stable at a higher frequency with lower temps =) In case of BSODs, here is a nice list of them and their cause/resolution; 0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT) 0x101 = add more vcore 0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT 0x1E = add more vcore 0x3B = add more vcore 0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage 0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances 0X109 = add DDR3 voltage 0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage 0x116 = Low IOH (NB) voltage, GPU issue (most common when running multi-GPU/overclocking GPU) 0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r
  18. uhm the AMOUNT of memory has nothing to say regarding VCCIO voltage.. the SPEED of the memory has.. for example I am running 2133MHz memory and that requires a VCCIO voltage of 1.12-1.14 At 1333MHz it should be 1.05v I don't know for 1600MHz but probably somewhere in between
  19. BCLK: 100.0 Turbo Ratio: By Per Core Ratio Limits: 46 Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled Memory Frequency: DDR3-2133MHz EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled DRAM Timing Control: According to X.M.P. Profile Load-line Calibration: Ultra High VRM Frequency: Manual VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350 Phase Control: Extreme Duty Control: Extreme CPU Current Capability: 100% CPU Voltage: Manual CPU Manual Voltage: 1.32 DRAM Voltage: 1.65000 VCCSA Voltage = 1.01250 VCCIO Voltage = 1.15000 CPU PLL Voltage: 1.55 PCH Voltage = 1.15000 CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled Keeping GPUs at stock until somone comments on my VCCSA/VCCIO/PCH voltages (like 4th time I ask if they're too high, or OK - since I am the most patient man alive I am not rushing anyone, I'll just keep asking until some of you experienced OC'ers advice me ) EDIT: very weird.. I wanted to contribute to the temp comparison thread, so I opened up HWMON, CoreTemp, RealTemp and RealTempGT... meanwhile I thought a restart would do good, and while opening RealTempGT it gave some error about driver.. something.. odd I thought.. but either way I rebooted, and loaded the programs again (this time no whining about some driver(s))... let the system be for 5 mins.. hit print screen.. open paint... system freezed and I got a 0x9c... O_o Reboot... system barely lasted 2 mins before freezing... so back in BIOS.. after reading some topics about 0x9c I found there are LOADS of causes and solutions: faulty mobo, cpu, ram or hdd, try to do memtest for 7 passes to figure if RAM, try chkdesk to see if hdd has gone poo... could also be driver issues.. try to reinstall drivers.. try HDDLife or HD Drive Analyst to analyse HDD.. reinstall windows could also solve... and the last thing I found was on an overclocking forum (forgot which now... and I really wonder why that was the last place I looked.. I mean, my system is overclocked lol... and I also remember El_Capitan (or someone else) linking to a list of BSODs and their cause/resoluion (Here it is).. and LOL... I've just been talking about my VCCIO/VCCSA/PCH voltages maybe being too high?.. so I dialed them back to just below 0.975 and 1.1375 and 1.1, respectively.. and upped the vCore to 1.33 just for the sake of wanting stability... Boo-Yah, problem solved.. system doesn't crash and handled 20 LinX passes without any (Q_Q) But still I'd like you guys input regarding max safe VCCIO/VCSSA/PCH voltages (I know the manual says 1.01250/1.15000/1.15000, but that didn't work quite well).. so I can overclock my GPUs without wondering if the NB voltages are too low or it's just too big of an overclock Cheers
  20. Hmm... was stresstesting with LinX and after completing 20 passes I figured.. might as well post a SS for this topic lol so [email protected] i5-2500k took 21m 17s with ALL selected.... on air =)
  21. UPDATE: wow I feel stupid now... finally it struck me; perhaps the increased voltages introduced instability?... so I ran IBT and it gave errors after 9 mins.. so apparently increasing the three voltages requires a higher vCore.. so now I am upping vCore until I reach stability... man never thought INCREASING voltages would introduce instability :/ Oh well.. but either way I'd like you guys to comment on those three voltages; although I have them right under "un-safe", i.e. one more bump will make the colour code change to purple, which I was adviced by wevvspot to stay out of.. but should I stay more away from the purple colour than 1 bump? I can't find any software to monitor those voltages.. Anyways glad I figured out why my system was behaving weird lol EDIT: well that wasn't so bad, only needed to bump by 0.005 to get stability back ^_^
  22. TES V - Skyrim doesn't like crossfire, so I'm basically only running with 1 card (crossfire actually reduces fps, i.e. you get better FPS with crossfire disabled), and I need to OC it to maintain 25+ FPS all the time. Meh... something is wrong with my system... I left my system idle to study homework but when I came back, I saw my keyboard shut off (nothing on LCD screen and no lightning), but my headset was still on fire (controller lighting and lightning on the headset)..but I couldn't get my monitor to light up (moved around mouse - monitor did not return from power saving mode)... it rebooted fine though.. after a hard reset (held power button for some secs)... but Event Viewer says nothing... I am seriously puzzled I put the clocks back to stock on the GPUs now... Crossfire is disabled, so it's not like my PSU should be having a hard time.. but let's see if it happens again.. I'm suspecting the problem lies within the changed voltages (VCCIO, VCCSA and PCH), but I need to bump them to be able to even run Skyrim (else 0x116)... I haven't tested how little is needed though... Do you think the voltages are too high? or what could be the problem? Well I guess it could be too high clocks on the GPU.. but I just wanted you guys to comment on the three voltages.. if u think they're too high? It's gonna be hard to replicate this crash though... I guess I could let the system mind it's own business for hours and see what happens lol
  23. No I never run beta drivers. I don't have any problems at stock clocks or 840/1325 I'm just wondering why it didn't feel like booting properly at 870/1250 after the Crysis 2 0x116 crash(while trying to find max core clocks)... In case of new readers: Read #73 EDIT: Read someone had same experienced the same - suddenly no video output, but after some time (in his case 15 mins), problem solved In that topic they suspected the issue was system temperatures - since I've my GPU temps never went above 72*C at 870 on the core, and CPU temps is not a problem either (D-14... and max temps in IBT is 71*C).. could it be the motherboard? there's only one temp reading from the mo-bo, which never went past 29*C, but I doubt 1 point from the MB can give a precise temp reading of the whole MB? But could it be the combination of overclocked GPU and possibly too high NB voltages? What do you think about my NB voltages? I was planning to max them out (without going beyond safe), and then OC my GPUs and then when I'm done, dial them back until I reach instability and then keep them a bit above that.. but if my current voltages are causing harm please advice me to some safe voltages (I did not put them higher than max safe, but I dpn't know if they are overvolted.. I don't know.. hence I ask) The topic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1019756/no-video-output
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