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Posts posted by wamason

  1. I have an X-Connect and I love it--but it's in a Koolance tower with plenty of space. I wouldn't want to try one in a small case because of the cables. but that PSU has the best looking cables I've ever seen. I guess that's the trade off :-)


    Also, for what I'll be doing: Gaming and video recording/editing, would it be worth it to go with an A64, or just keep my Barton? I will be using a video recorder with hardware encoding if this helps.



  2. any reason your gooing micro ATX? I really dont see any reason too bc the boards tend to be underfeatured, and cast more for the quality you get....



    I want it to be semi-portable, and I like having a cube PC. But I don't like all of the proprietary stuff that shuttle and some others make. I'm sure they're great and all, but I want to be able to upgrade at any time and keep the same case. Plus this PC will spend some time in my living room for video capture. I picked the MSI board because of the features, and I know MSI to be a fairly good brand. hopefully nothing has changed there in the last year :D


    I play more DX9 games than OpenGL. As far as HD's go, I'd like something in the neighborhood of 200 gigs, with NCQ. I've Maxtors for as low as $111 OEM new.


    So, having 2 Gigs of RAM is not really worth it?

  3. Ok, here's the scoop. A while back I built a PC using an Antec Aria case, Chaintech 7NIF2 Mobo, AthlonXP 2500 Barton, 768MB DDR400 Ram, NEC ND-3500A Burner, and a Powercolor 9700 Pro. I also purchased (this was dumb) an Adaptec VideOh! Capture card, no HW encoding. I like the PC. Looks good, and my temps are reasonable. But Video recording sucks because of the lack of HW encoding, and I'd like something generally faster to run Doom 3, FC, and HL2 at high settings.


    Here is what I have in mind:


    Aspire X-QP

    ACK MATX case (doesn't look as good as the aria, but at only 1" longer, and 1" higher, it holds a ton more) - $90

    Athlon 64 3200 s939 (Seems like the best bang for the buck) - $200

    MSI RS480M2-IL Mobo (Most full featured mATX board I could find) - $100

    GEIL Ultra 2x1GB PC3200 DDR RAM - $215

    2x200GB 7200 RPM SATA HD's (RAID 0) - $250'ish

    Also looking at an X800XL video card - $300'ish

    Need a decent power supply, preferably one that is modular(with SATA power adapters) - Under $100

    I will probably go with the Audigy 2ZS Video Editor for audio, and for video capture - $250


    I would appreciate feedback on what I've chosen above. If there is anything better (for the price) I'd like to know. Also, I'd like recommendations on a PS, HD's, and video card, preferably an X800XL.


    I don't need the absolute latest components, I'd rather stay around midrange.


    Thanks for the help!



  4. move the computer and the router closer, also make sure the keyboard and mouse stay away from the card as far as possible.



    Moving my PC closer isn't very practical. My PC is in my living room. The router is in another room with my server and another PC. I normally keep the keyboard and mouse 4 to 5 feet from the PC, but the base unit will only stretch so far from the PC.


    For some reason, the D-Link Router will not allow me to change channels. When I click on the drop down menu, it only has channel 6, and no other choices.

  5. hey everyone, I'm using a D-Link DI-624 802.11g wireless router at my home, and I have only one PC connected via wireless, by a D-link wireless card. Here is my problem.


    I couldn't get the PC to connect to the router at all, until I disconnected my Logitech MX keyboard and mouse, then my connection was ok. After I reconnected, my connection dropped to 30% and then died.


    This is very aggravating. I realize that wireless is subject to interference, but it disgusts me that a stupid keyboard and mouse can literally make my wireless lan equipment totally useless. It makes me want to throw it all away.


    I've read on the net that you just have to deal with this, but does anyone have any other answers that don't include "get a corded keyboard and mouse"?


    Otherwise my wireless card may be up from grabs for the price of shipping :P

  6. Hi everyone, I'm looking into getting a better mobo for my Cube PC (Antec Aria). Right now I'm using a Chaintech Summit 7NIF2 which uses the nForce2 IGP chipset. And only has 4 channel audio, no firewire, and no SATA support.


    Here is what I'm looking for:


    Socket A mobo using the nForce2 400 Chipset, no onboard graphics (of course).

    Atleast 5.1 channel onboard audio, but I'd prefer a good Soundstorm setup. Also need SPDIF out.

    Would like SATA support, but not required.

    Need firewire



    These are the main areas my Chaintech falls short. I'd like to OC to 400 MHz FSB but I've heard that the nForce2 IGP can have some stability issues at that speed, so I'd prefer to go with the 400.


    Thanks for the help!

  7. Did you try lowering the % of red in the color settings section of the ATI control panel?


    Also check your refresh rate to see if it isn't set a bit high for your LCD.



    It's an analog LCD using a standard monitor cable. I figured out the problem. The cable has a few small cuts on it from rubbing something. I tried another video cable and it works great now.


    Thanks for the help!

  8. Hi everyone,

    I bought a NEC LCD Monitor from a friend, and I'm having a bit of trouble with it. My problem is the color. The whole screen has a red tint. I've tried adjusting the color settings and the brightness/contrast in the LCD itself, but I can't get it to look right. For example: The smiley Icons on the forum here look like a DARK orange, instead of yellow like on my CRT. I've downloaded the NEC drivers, and the Monitor's color profile, but nothing really helps. Any help would be appreciated.

  9. To figure out what's wrong, I suggest reading the mobo's manual and find out what the series of beeps mean. If it actually smells like it burned, then it's most likely the PSU's fault. You might also want to check the RAM, see if there's any damage or burning smell, since PSU fluctuations usually take out RAM too.



    My NF7 would make that noise if the processor overheated. One day my AC went out in my PC room with 4 PC's in it. And I had a 2600 OC'ed to 2.3 GHz. I had my temp overheat set at 65C, and it went off :D

  10. Also, try experimenting with splices (I think that's what they're called). You can basically free-form draw a shape, then use the Entrude modifier to create an actual 3D model.


    It's been a while since I've used Max. I've had every version up to 4.2, which is when I kinda stopped messing with it :sleep:


    If you want the look of a fan spinning, just group the fan motor and blades, then rotate the assembly 10 degrees per frame, and add Motion Blur in Video Post and Render a frame to get the look of movement :D


    Let me know if you need more help, I need to reinstall Max anyways, got a few jobs to work on :P

  11. An easy way to do it would be to create a flat rectangle-shapped box, then apply a 4x4x4 deforming modifier, then edit the individual vertex points into the rough shape you want. You can then either leave it alone and clone/rotate the part to make the blades, or you can apply the meshsmooth modifier to smooth the edges. Using smoothing depends on what kinda fan you want it to look like.

  12. I couldn't find it in the manual, but I did find a review online that showed a pic of the bios. The FSB is the only option, so a mobile is out.


    Looks like I'm back to a 2600 Barton (I want to spend less than $100). I'm not a big fan of the Semprons because it seems like they're just re-badged throughbred B's. Would a 2600 Barton be my best bet?

  13. Hey everyone, I've encounted a small problem in building my HTPC. My wife accidentaly touched me as I was installing the processor, and she shocked me, killing the poor Barton I was going to use :withstupid:



    Anyways, I'm thinking about getting a 2600 Mobile for a replacement.


    Here is what I already have:


    Antec Aria (fixed some airflow problems by modding 1 80mm fan/hole into each side w/ tt smart fans)


    Chaintech Summit 7NIF2 (I think) - nForce2 IGP matx

    2x256 Kingston PC3200 Value RAM

    PowerColor Radeon 9700 Pro 128MB




    Those are the basic components that I have to work with. I need opinions on what is the best socket A processor for what I'm doing?


    I know an Athlon Mobile at stock speeds would generate less heat, but I'm not 100% sure if the summit board would be compatible, don't know if it has voltage and multiplier adjustments. (Anyone know this?)



  14. Get Acronis TrueImage 8 for backups. I bought it a few months ago and it rocks. No more rebooting to backup (although you do have to reboot to restore a boot HD). You can make backups of your boot drive or any other in Windows. It takes about 45 minutes to backup about 35 Gigs from my RAID 0 array (2x120Gb Seagate SATA drives).


    Excellent software. It will easily do hardware RAID. I don't know about software RAId though.

  15. 97 Gigs of music here. I've ripped every CD I've ever had, and I keep all my CD's in boxes, and just burn mixed CD's to play, that way I can save my originals. Also included are tons of LP's and cassettes converted into MP3. Mostly for my parents.


    Also have 283 Gigs of uncompressed DVD's.


    All housed in a file server at my house:


    Abit NF7-S Rev. 2

    AthlonXP 2400

    512 MB PC2700 Kingston Value RAM

    Chieftec Dragon Case w/out window

    Radeon 9200 Video Card

    2x Seagate SATA 7200.8 300 GB HD's (Music and Movies)

    WD 40GB Hard drive (OS and misc files)

    Wireless Keyboard w/ built in trackball

    KVM switch for switching to my monitor if needed

  16. Get an Athlon Mobile. The best $100 I've ever spent. I bought a 2600 mobile a week or two ago, and I've OC'ed it to 2.4GHz for the moment, and it runs circles around my standard Barton 2600 OC'ed to 2.3 GHz. I don't know what the deal is, since I'm running the same speed FSB as the old chip (400 MHz), and only 100Mhz higher in clock speed, but my game performance all around has improved dramatically.

  17. A while back I posted a problem in the storage forum, concerning extremely slow performance of my DVDRW and CDRW drives. I found the problem. Apparently my DFI LanParty NF2 Ultra "B" had set each drive to PIO mode 4, and not UDMA. When burning a CD, it took almost 7 minutes to burn a full CD, and utilized the CPU almost 100%, making the PC unuseable. After I changed the modes to UDMA, I get performance consistent with my previous Mobo, an Abit NF7. Now I can burn a full CD (data or audio) in about 2 minutes, with max CPU load of about 12%.


    These settings came pre-set on my DFI board. Just thought I would pass this along for anyone planning to buy this board. Others may or may not be set the same way. Also, this is an awesome board for a socket A. Definitely my favorite.

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