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Posts posted by wamason

  1. This may not be what you want to hear, but I've encountered that problem before, and here is my fix that's worked almost every time. disassemble everything. Take the CPU, RAM expansion cards--everything off the mobo, unplug all wiring to the mobo, and take the mobo out of the case. Now put it back in, and slowly, carefully reconnect everything. This solves my problem 90% of the time because I've usually missed something in the assembly process :D

  2. Lo everyone. I've made a few changes to my PC setup in the last week. Here's what I'm working with now (It's not assembled yet).


    Silverstone SST-LC01

    DFI Lanparty Ultra NF2 Rev. B

    Athlon XP-M 2600

    Radeon 9800 Pro 128MB (R360)

    GEIL Golden Dragon 2x512MB PC3200

    NEC ND-3500A DVD-R/RW (firmware hack to increase DVD rip speed)

    LG 52x32x52 CDR-RW

    2x200GB Seagate 7200.7 SATA HDD's (RAID 0)

    2x80GB WD SE HDD's

    Adaptec VideOh! PCI Capture Card

    Modded Thermaltake Bigwater 12CM Liquid Cooling kit



    Here's my question: I've heard from some people that it's better to put Windows XP on a RAID drive because of speed. I've heard from others that you should put Windows XP on a regular single HD, and put all of your apps on the RAID drive. I'm curious as to which method will give me best performance.


    I play games alot, but I also capture alot of video (after alot of research, I found that the Adaptec card does do MPEG-2 hardware encoding, the software just sucks).


    I've thought of two possible layouts:

    Install XP on single 80GB WD

    Use other single WD 80GB HD for backups

    Split RAID array into two partitions - one for apps, the other for video (mainly to keep them separated)



    Split RAID array into two partitions - one for apps, the other for Windows XP

    Use one single WD HDD for video

    Use other single WD HDD for backups


    If anyone has any advice on this subject, I'd love to hear it :D



  3. Lo everyone, here's my situation.


    I have a decent remote that came with my Kenwood receiver. I'm satisfied with it, and don't care to buy an expensive remote. I'd like to be able to control some basic functions of my HTPC with this remote. Is there something like a universal IR receiver that can be connected to a PC and software to make this work or am I out of luck?



  4. how old is the 2500+ xp?



    I bought it in January. I'm not sure about the stepping. I'll try to remove it and find out today.


    EDIT: Took the proc out. Here's the code: AXDA2500KV4D

  5. Ok, parting out PC's...


    Prices listed are what I'd like to get, but I will consider reasonable offers. All prices include UPS shipping - USA only. I will combine shipping for multiple items.

    I've tried to set reasonable prices by comparing prices when new and such, but if my prices are to high, please let me know. Also, no trades please.


    SB Audigy 2 (non-ZS) OEM (SB0240) - $50


    AthlonXP 2500 (Barton Core) - $60


    Aspire X-QPack mATX Cube Case w/PSU - $80 ---SOLD---


    Antec Aria mATX Cube Case w/PSU (side panel modded w/ 80mm fan hole) - $50


    Powmax Black mATX Case w/ PSU & Handle (one broken faceplate snap) - $25



    Koolance PC3-410BK Liquid Cooled Case w/ series 300 socket A waterblock - $180 ---SOLD---


    Powercolor Radeon 9700 Pro 128MB (w/VGA Silencer) - $80 ---SOLD---






    Some Non-PC items for sale


    Kenwood Powered Subwoofer (model SW-37HT)

    Came as part of a package. Amplifier powers on, but no audio. Have not had it checked. 8" woofer is in excellent shape. Housing has minor scratches and scuffs. - Best Offer


    Traxxas 4-Tec Electric 4wd Touring Car

    Good condition, needs new rear differential, needs body, and steering servo. I will include a misc motor, almost brand new HiTec HXR ESC (paid $65 for), and Traxxas stock Tx/Rx w/ crystals. Chassis is in good shape w/ usual wear marks and scratches, but no major damage. Car has been widened to 200mm using Nitro 4-Tec arms front and rear. This car can be road ready with a servo and a new rear diff. - $140


    Novak SuperSport Brushless Motor System (SS5800)

    Like new. Will come in orignal box (If I can find it) - $160


    Kenwood VR-707 Home Theatre Receiver

    Like new condition. Supports DD/DDEX/DTS/PL. Includes Remote and manual (If I can find the manual), in the original box. - $120



    If you are interested, please reply or PM me with the item in the subject line.

  6. Hey everyone, having another problem. Getting my Audigy 2 (non-ZS) installed has always been a pain, but recently I transfered it to my HTPC. OK, after a few hours I was able to get it to work. After manually finding the drivers, it recognized the card as "Creative WDM Audio Processor". Strange. In my old PC is recognized it as "Sound Blaster Audigy 2". Anyways, everything worked great for a day or so. Last night I came home and accidentaly hit the Sleep button on my keyboard, so the PC went into sleep, then right back out of sleep as I pressed more buttons. When the PC came out of sleep mode, no audio. I then checked the device manager, and the sound card doesn't even show up anymore! After clicking "Scan for hardware changes", it finds the card and asks for drivers. So I found the same exact driver (an expanded zip file on my HD), but now it says something like "The specified location does not contain information on your hardware" or something like that. I do have the absolute latest drivers.


    Any ideas?




  7. Another thing to think about if you're planning on using a car audio sub is speaker sensitivity. A speaker with a higher sensetivity rating will require less power to reach a certain output/volume level. Instead of wasting money on a large amplifier, get one or two very efficient speakers, and custom build a vented enclosure tuned to the proper frequency for the speaker(s) you're using.


    But my recommendation is still to go with a powered HT sub. Velodyne makes a 1000 watt RMS sub, which really hammers, but I can't hear a huge difference between it and my two E250P's. My E250P's were $230 apiece. The Veoldyne runs for about $800-1000 if I remember correctly.


    On the subject of power ratings, I've noticed a particularly annoying trend in the PC world. Tigerdirect (and many other merchants) sell $10 speaker sets rated at 300 and 400 watts PMPO. I'm not sure what the PMPO means, but this is incredibly misleading. I had a friend that bought a set from Tigerdirect for about $35. The set he bought was rated at 550 watts PMPO and had two satellites and one sub. It sounded worse than the speakers on my PSP, and that's pretty bad. If anyone knows what "PMPO" means, I'd really like to know :P

  8. I somewhat agree. It's not a high end system by any means...maybe a year or two ago, but not now. But I wouldn't consider it low end either. Maybe somewhere in the middle. I did have a 9800Pro but it's now in my cube PC. With the 9800 Pro (OC'ed to XT speeds) I played FarCry @ 1280x1024 w/ 4xAA and 8xAF and highest detail level without problems. The only time it would ever get unplayable (meaning other than completely smooth) was when I got hit by a rocket.


    The 9700Pro will run like a 9800Pro and I've tried a few games on it. FC still runs fine (I run at 2xAA and 4xAF). If someone wanted a decent PC for graphics, file server, etc... it would probably be ok.


    For anyone interested, the case has room for the following: 5 internal HD's (using slide-out HD trays), 2 external HD/FDD's, 4 5.25" drives (case has 5 bays, but radiator makes top bay useless). Perfect case for a file server :D


    Oh yea, while I'm thinking about it, I will also include the DFI FrontX device as well, although it's not installed in the PC (seemed a bit redundant considering the case has all of the connections already). I also have the original suitcase for the mobo as well.


    Another Edit: The case is made of steel, no aluminum like my old Dragon tower. It weighs a ton, so don't plan on taking it anywhere often unless you're built like Arnold :D

  9. The case is in absolutely excellent condition. As are all of the components.


    I consider the case wiring to be in good shape as far as neatness. On the WC side, the case/kit has only been filled once about six months ago and has been checked every few weeks. My plans were to get a GPU waterblock, but the VGA Silencer always seemed to do a good job.

  10. Hello everyone!


    I'm putting a PC up for sale. It's the PC in my signature, but I've changed some components (My sig needs updating).


    Here are the specs:


    Koolance PC3-410BK Liquid Cooled Tower Case (Modelled after a Chieftec)

    Koolance Series 3 Socket A CPU Waterblock

    Athlon XP-M 2600 (OC'ed to 2.5GHz @ 36c idle, 42c load)

    DFI LanParty Ultra NF2 Rev. B (Latest Bios)

    2x512MB (1GB) GEIL Value Series PC3200 RAM

    PowerColor 9700 Pro 128MB /w VGA Silencer (OC'ed 9800Pro stock speeds)

    2x120GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 8MB HDD's (w/o NCQ -currently set to RAID 0)

    LG 52x32x52 CD Burner

    PC Toys 4-channel fan controller

    Round IDE Cables

    500 Watt Ultra X-Connect Black Modular PSU

    2 UV 12" CCL's

    2 UV Green 80MM fans (rear)

    2 Green LED 80mm fans (front)


    To be honest, I have no idea what to ask for this system, so I'd like some reasonable offers if anyone is interested.


    Also, I do not wish to part this out, atleast until I know that absolutely no one will buy it as a whole, so don't ask me if I will part it out yet :)


    Like I said, I'd like reasonable offers, or even just someone to tell me what it's worth so I'd know what to ask for. I'm looking for money, sorry, no trades.



  11. Well Im ganan get a nice amp with a cheater chip and . but I need to get some good Subs first




    Why 1500 watts? I use a pair of JBL Northridge E250P's in my living (which also housed my HTPC). Each sub has a 250 Watt RMS amp. I'm using Infinity Primus speakers, and a Kenwood receiver. Both of my subs will literally vibrate a cup off my coffee table. I know everyone has different listening preferences, but I'm just curious as to why you want so much power? It seems like your best bet might be to get a powered sub designed for home theatre use. That would be the easiest way to go.

  12. Once again it's that time of year.  time to donate 2 rigs for a charity auction.  these prices are only what is considered "fair" value.  both systems are identical.


    Athlon Fx-55 (retail)

    4gb PC3200 samsung ram

    DFI lanparty  SLI board

    4 73gb raptors (2 raid 0 stripes)

    16x samsung dvd-rw dl drive

    16x msi dvd rom

    2 Asus 6800 ultra 256mb cards in sli

    cooler master stacker tower

    enermax 465w power supply


    windows xp pro (OEM license...  all included)

    office 2003 premium (OEM license)

    Norton Anti Internet Security 2005 (full retail version)

    Nero 6.5 ultra ed (retail full version)


    MS wireless keyboard and mouse combo


    17" Samsung LCD


    Logitec Z540 speaker set

    all parts are BRAND new.

    if you were to set a "value" for this setup what would it be?  keep in mind this is NOT what they'll be sold for.  starting bid will be ~$200 and go up from there.  last years rigs went from $1500 to $3000 (3 different setups).




    Wow! I've been waiting for FalconNW or VoodooPC to come up with a PC like that, but I haven't seen anything that stout from them :D Awesome PC!!


    Considering what those companies charge for their PC's, you could probably get $4K for it easy.

  13. A 9700 Pro is a good card, but don't expect to run HL2, Doom 3, or FarCry at high resolutions with all the eyecandy.


    I have a cube PC with an athlonxp 2500 barton, 768mb RAM, and a 9700 Pro. I can run FarCry at 1024x768 (my LCD's native res) with all the trimmings and it works just fine, but I can only run Doom 3 at High detail instead of Ultra. If you wanted to go to higher resolutions, you'd have to get rid of some of the detail to keep your framerates up. But overall I think the 9700Pro is a good card, but I agree with NoNothing, if you can afford it, get an X800XL. It has the best price/performance ratio of any card out right now IMO. You can find some for a low as $250.... It will be my next upgrade :D

  14. Is your colling system working correctly? do you have a resivoir on it. what type of cooling fluid are you using? these are all factors. Also it seems to me that the XP's run a little hotter for some reason.



    The WC system he has comes pre-filled and sealed. The water tank (If you can call it that) is about the size of a large pen that sits on top of the CPU heatsink, as does the pump. It would probably be a good solution for a SFF PC. If there was a way to add a 5-1/4" bayres or something similar, that would probably bring temps down a bit, as well as another radiator inline.

  15. I'm not a pro by any means, but I can offer you my opinion based on some experience.


    I would say that your CPU cooler is to blame for the high load temps. Going from 30C to 50C is a big jump from idle to load IMO. Although I haven't had much experience with P4's, most athlon's I've used/seen only vary in temp about 10C maximum. I would get another CPU cooler. I think most aftermarket heatsinks are miles ahead of stock heatsinks.


    Also, sometimes a video card can bring up case temps, which can also raise CPU temps, but I don't really think you have to worry about that with your current card, but if you had a 9700pro or up, it could contribute to heat, especially in smaller cases. If you want to almost totally eliminate the video card as a source of heat, get a VGA Silencer. It takes up an extra expansion slot below the card, but it's one of the quietest, most effective VGA coolers around.


    I don't really know about the RAM. The RAM I bought came with RAMsinks on it, but I couldn't tell you if they make a difference of not. I've heard that RAM can get quite hot under heavy usage, especially when overclocked, so RAMsinks might actually help, but I don't know.


    If you plan on overclocking, you will definitely need better CPU cooling! Some like air cooling, some like liquid. My server PC is liquid cooled (a Koolance tower), but my wife's PC and my HTPC are both air cooled (they're not overclocked though).

    Liquid cooling is more expensive (for a good setup from DD or Swiftech), but it's almost always quieter than an air cooled PC.


    Anyways, this is just my take on things. If any more experienced members read this post, don't hesitate to correct me :D

  16. I do have one more question.... I'm considering selling both my PC's to build one new one that's faster. I know that this isn't the marketplace forum, but I was wondering if you guys could tell me what some of my components are worth.


    Koolance PC3-410BK w/ series 3 CPU Block

    Antec Aria w/ 80mm fan modded into side panel. Some scratches here and there.

    2x Seagate 7200.7 120 GB SATA drives w/o NCQ.

    Athlon XP-M 2600

    AthlonXP 2500 Barton

    DFI LanParty NF2 Ultra (Have everything that came with it)

    Chaintech Summit 7NIF2 (w/ S-video out)

    Adaptec VideOh! PCI Capture Card (SW only)

    Logitech MX Duo Cordless (Not Bluetooth)


    Again, if this is in the wrong place, my apologies, but I didn't know if it was ok to post this in the marketplace forum.

  17. Cut the female connector off from an extension cord and touch the two wires with current to various parts in your computer. I imagine that 110/220 volts going through the mobo would wreak some havoc. Just don't kill yourself doing it. :typing:



    Very good idea, but use the 12volt line from another PSU instead. Ground the - lead to the mobo, and rake the + lead across it, specifically over chips (the metal jumpers between the chip and mobo), that'll cause fires. Also, take out the HD, and connect the + and - wires from the PSU to the motor leads of the HD. Will short out the motor, and make the drive useless.


    You can also short out the RAM this way too. I had to do this to a PC at work to get a new one :D

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