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Everything posted by wamason

  1. This may not be what you want to hear, but I've encountered that problem before, and here is my fix that's worked almost every time. disassemble everything. Take the CPU, RAM expansion cards--everything off the mobo, unplug all wiring to the mobo, and take the mobo out of the case. Now put it back in, and slowly, carefully reconnect everything. This solves my problem 90% of the time because I've usually missed something in the assembly process
  2. Alright, removed a few things, and lowere prices of a couple of items.
  3. Lo everyone. I've made a few changes to my PC setup in the last week. Here's what I'm working with now (It's not assembled yet). Silverstone SST-LC01 DFI Lanparty Ultra NF2 Rev. B Athlon XP-M 2600 Radeon 9800 Pro 128MB (R360) GEIL Golden Dragon 2x512MB PC3200 NEC ND-3500A DVD-R/RW (firmware hack to increase DVD rip speed) LG 52x32x52 CDR-RW 2x200GB Seagate 7200.7 SATA HDD's (RAID 0) 2x80GB WD SE HDD's Adaptec VideOh! PCI Capture Card Modded Thermaltake Bigwater 12CM Liquid Cooling kit Here's my question: I've heard from some people that it's better to put Windows XP on a RAID drive because of speed. I've heard from others that you should put Windows XP on a regular single HD, and put all of your apps on the RAID drive. I'm curious as to which method will give me best performance. I play games alot, but I also capture alot of video (after alot of research, I found that the Adaptec card does do MPEG-2 hardware encoding, the software just sucks). I've thought of two possible layouts: Install XP on single 80GB WD Use other single WD 80GB HD for backups Split RAID array into two partitions - one for apps, the other for video (mainly to keep them separated) Two: Split RAID array into two partitions - one for apps, the other for Windows XP Use one single WD HDD for video Use other single WD HDD for backups If anyone has any advice on this subject, I'd love to hear it Thanks!
  4. Lo everyone, here's my situation. I have a decent remote that came with my Kenwood receiver. I'm satisfied with it, and don't care to buy an expensive remote. I'd like to be able to control some basic functions of my HTPC with this remote. Is there something like a universal IR receiver that can be connected to a PC and software to make this work or am I out of luck? Thanks!
  5. Sorry, it's in your PM box now. Sent it to the wrong person yesterday 9700 Pro is SOLD.
  6. I've got two ahead of you, but if they don't go, it's yours.
  7. I bought it in January. I'm not sure about the stepping. I'll try to remove it and find out today. EDIT: Took the proc out. Here's the code: AXDA2500KV4D
  8. Ok, parting out PC's... Prices listed are what I'd like to get, but I will consider reasonable offers. All prices include UPS shipping - USA only. I will combine shipping for multiple items. I've tried to set reasonable prices by comparing prices when new and such, but if my prices are to high, please let me know. Also, no trades please. SB Audigy 2 (non-ZS) OEM (SB0240) - $50 AthlonXP 2500 (Barton Core) - $60 Aspire X-QPack mATX Cube Case w/PSU - $80 ---SOLD--- Antec Aria mATX Cube Case w/PSU (side panel modded w/ 80mm fan hole) - $50 Powmax Black mATX Case w/ PSU & Handle (one broken faceplate snap) - $25 Koolance PC3-410BK Liquid Cooled Case w/ series 300 socket A waterblock - $180 ---SOLD--- Powercolor Radeon 9700 Pro 128MB (w/VGA Silencer) - $80 ---SOLD--- Some Non-PC items for sale Kenwood Powered Subwoofer (model SW-37HT) Came as part of a package. Amplifier powers on, but no audio. Have not had it checked. 8" woofer is in excellent shape. Housing has minor scratches and scuffs. - Best Offer Traxxas 4-Tec Electric 4wd Touring Car Good condition, needs new rear differential, needs body, and steering servo. I will include a misc motor, almost brand new HiTec HXR ESC (paid $65 for), and Traxxas stock Tx/Rx w/ crystals. Chassis is in good shape w/ usual wear marks and scratches, but no major damage. Car has been widened to 200mm using Nitro 4-Tec arms front and rear. This car can be road ready with a servo and a new rear diff. - $140 Novak SuperSport Brushless Motor System (SS5800) Like new. Will come in orignal box (If I can find it) - $160 Kenwood VR-707 Home Theatre Receiver Like new condition. Supports DD/DDEX/DTS/PL. Includes Remote and manual (If I can find the manual), in the original box. - $120 If you are interested, please reply or PM me with the item in the subject line.
  9. If you don't mind dropping the extra $$$$, a DFI LanParty Ultra NF2 Rev. B is the way to go. It has everything except the kitchen sink
  10. Hey everyone, having another problem. Getting my Audigy 2 (non-ZS) installed has always been a pain, but recently I transfered it to my HTPC. OK, after a few hours I was able to get it to work. After manually finding the drivers, it recognized the card as "Creative WDM Audio Processor". Strange. In my old PC is recognized it as "Sound Blaster Audigy 2". Anyways, everything worked great for a day or so. Last night I came home and accidentaly hit the Sleep button on my keyboard, so the PC went into sleep, then right back out of sleep as I pressed more buttons. When the PC came out of sleep mode, no audio. I then checked the device manager, and the sound card doesn't even show up anymore! After clicking "Scan for hardware changes", it finds the card and asks for drivers. So I found the same exact driver (an expanded zip file on my HD), but now it says something like "The specified location does not contain information on your hardware" or something like that. I do have the absolute latest drivers. Any ideas? Thanks!
  11. Another thing to think about if you're planning on using a car audio sub is speaker sensitivity. A speaker with a higher sensetivity rating will require less power to reach a certain output/volume level. Instead of wasting money on a large amplifier, get one or two very efficient speakers, and custom build a vented enclosure tuned to the proper frequency for the speaker(s) you're using. But my recommendation is still to go with a powered HT sub. Velodyne makes a 1000 watt RMS sub, which really hammers, but I can't hear a huge difference between it and my two E250P's. My E250P's were $230 apiece. The Veoldyne runs for about $800-1000 if I remember correctly. On the subject of power ratings, I've noticed a particularly annoying trend in the PC world. Tigerdirect (and many other merchants) sell $10 speaker sets rated at 300 and 400 watts PMPO. I'm not sure what the PMPO means, but this is incredibly misleading. I had a friend that bought a set from Tigerdirect for about $35. The set he bought was rated at 550 watts PMPO and had two satellites and one sub. It sounded worse than the speakers on my PSP, and that's pretty bad. If anyone knows what "PMPO" means, I'd really like to know
  12. Try checking the voltage on your PSU. I'm not a huge fan of Aspire's PSU's (bad experiences). I'd be willing to bet your PSU is the culprit. But as always, I could be wrong
  13. I somewhat agree. It's not a high end system by any means...maybe a year or two ago, but not now. But I wouldn't consider it low end either. Maybe somewhere in the middle. I did have a 9800Pro but it's now in my cube PC. With the 9800 Pro (OC'ed to XT speeds) I played FarCry @ 1280x1024 w/ 4xAA and 8xAF and highest detail level without problems. The only time it would ever get unplayable (meaning other than completely smooth) was when I got hit by a rocket. The 9700Pro will run like a 9800Pro and I've tried a few games on it. FC still runs fine (I run at 2xAA and 4xAF). If someone wanted a decent PC for graphics, file server, etc... it would probably be ok. For anyone interested, the case has room for the following: 5 internal HD's (using slide-out HD trays), 2 external HD/FDD's, 4 5.25" drives (case has 5 bays, but radiator makes top bay useless). Perfect case for a file server Oh yea, while I'm thinking about it, I will also include the DFI FrontX device as well, although it's not installed in the PC (seemed a bit redundant considering the case has all of the connections already). I also have the original suitcase for the mobo as well. Another Edit: The case is made of steel, no aluminum like my old Dragon tower. It weighs a ton, so don't plan on taking it anywhere often unless you're built like Arnold
  14. The case is in absolutely excellent condition. As are all of the components. I consider the case wiring to be in good shape as far as neatness. On the WC side, the case/kit has only been filled once about six months ago and has been checked every few weeks. My plans were to get a GPU waterblock, but the VGA Silencer always seemed to do a good job.
  15. Hello everyone! I'm putting a PC up for sale. It's the PC in my signature, but I've changed some components (My sig needs updating). Here are the specs: Koolance PC3-410BK Liquid Cooled Tower Case (Modelled after a Chieftec) Koolance Series 3 Socket A CPU Waterblock Athlon XP-M 2600 (OC'ed to 2.5GHz @ 36c idle, 42c load) DFI LanParty Ultra NF2 Rev. B (Latest Bios) 2x512MB (1GB) GEIL Value Series PC3200 RAM PowerColor 9700 Pro 128MB /w VGA Silencer (OC'ed 9800Pro stock speeds) 2x120GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 8MB HDD's (w/o NCQ -currently set to RAID 0) LG 52x32x52 CD Burner PC Toys 4-channel fan controller Round IDE Cables 500 Watt Ultra X-Connect Black Modular PSU 2 UV 12" CCL's 2 UV Green 80MM fans (rear) 2 Green LED 80mm fans (front) To be honest, I have no idea what to ask for this system, so I'd like some reasonable offers if anyone is interested. Also, I do not wish to part this out, atleast until I know that absolutely no one will buy it as a whole, so don't ask me if I will part it out yet Like I said, I'd like reasonable offers, or even just someone to tell me what it's worth so I'd know what to ask for. I'm looking for money, sorry, no trades. Thanks!
  16. Why 1500 watts? I use a pair of JBL Northridge E250P's in my living (which also housed my HTPC). Each sub has a 250 Watt RMS amp. I'm using Infinity Primus speakers, and a Kenwood receiver. Both of my subs will literally vibrate a cup off my coffee table. I know everyone has different listening preferences, but I'm just curious as to why you want so much power? It seems like your best bet might be to get a powered sub designed for home theatre use. That would be the easiest way to go.
  17. Wow! I've been waiting for FalconNW or VoodooPC to come up with a PC like that, but I haven't seen anything that stout from them Awesome PC!! Considering what those companies charge for their PC's, you could probably get $4K for it easy.
  18. A 9700 Pro is a good card, but don't expect to run HL2, Doom 3, or FarCry at high resolutions with all the eyecandy. I have a cube PC with an athlonxp 2500 barton, 768mb RAM, and a 9700 Pro. I can run FarCry at 1024x768 (my LCD's native res) with all the trimmings and it works just fine, but I can only run Doom 3 at High detail instead of Ultra. If you wanted to go to higher resolutions, you'd have to get rid of some of the detail to keep your framerates up. But overall I think the 9700Pro is a good card, but I agree with NoNothing, if you can afford it, get an X800XL. It has the best price/performance ratio of any card out right now IMO. You can find some for a low as $250.... It will be my next upgrade
  19. Since money is no object, I would probablyget four raptors in a 0+1 setup. Speed and security :-) Or maybe a Vapochill unit.
  20. The WC system he has comes pre-filled and sealed. The water tank (If you can call it that) is about the size of a large pen that sits on top of the CPU heatsink, as does the pump. It would probably be a good solution for a SFF PC. If there was a way to add a 5-1/4" bayres or something similar, that would probably bring temps down a bit, as well as another radiator inline.
  21. I'm not a pro by any means, but I can offer you my opinion based on some experience. I would say that your CPU cooler is to blame for the high load temps. Going from 30C to 50C is a big jump from idle to load IMO. Although I haven't had much experience with P4's, most athlon's I've used/seen only vary in temp about 10C maximum. I would get another CPU cooler. I think most aftermarket heatsinks are miles ahead of stock heatsinks. Also, sometimes a video card can bring up case temps, which can also raise CPU temps, but I don't really think you have to worry about that with your current card, but if you had a 9700pro or up, it could contribute to heat, especially in smaller cases. If you want to almost totally eliminate the video card as a source of heat, get a VGA Silencer. It takes up an extra expansion slot below the card, but it's one of the quietest, most effective VGA coolers around. I don't really know about the RAM. The RAM I bought came with RAMsinks on it, but I couldn't tell you if they make a difference of not. I've heard that RAM can get quite hot under heavy usage, especially when overclocked, so RAMsinks might actually help, but I don't know. If you plan on overclocking, you will definitely need better CPU cooling! Some like air cooling, some like liquid. My server PC is liquid cooled (a Koolance tower), but my wife's PC and my HTPC are both air cooled (they're not overclocked though). Liquid cooling is more expensive (for a good setup from DD or Swiftech), but it's almost always quieter than an air cooled PC. Anyways, this is just my take on things. If any more experienced members read this post, don't hesitate to correct me
  22. I do have one more question.... I'm considering selling both my PC's to build one new one that's faster. I know that this isn't the marketplace forum, but I was wondering if you guys could tell me what some of my components are worth. Koolance PC3-410BK w/ series 3 CPU Block Antec Aria w/ 80mm fan modded into side panel. Some scratches here and there. 2x Seagate 7200.7 120 GB SATA drives w/o NCQ. Athlon XP-M 2600 AthlonXP 2500 Barton DFI LanParty NF2 Ultra (Have everything that came with it) Chaintech Summit 7NIF2 (w/ S-video out) Adaptec VideOh! PCI Capture Card (SW only) Logitech MX Duo Cordless (Not Bluetooth) Again, if this is in the wrong place, my apologies, but I didn't know if it was ok to post this in the marketplace forum.
  23. Very good idea, but use the 12volt line from another PSU instead. Ground the - lead to the mobo, and rake the + lead across it, specifically over chips (the metal jumpers between the chip and mobo), that'll cause fires. Also, take out the HD, and connect the + and - wires from the PSU to the motor leads of the HD. Will short out the motor, and make the drive useless. You can also short out the RAM this way too. I had to do this to a PC at work to get a new one
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