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Everything posted by Miek

  1. Basic core specs: Ryzen 1600X @ stock speeds until I can get my RAM stable at its stock speeds MSI B350M Mortar Corsair LPX 2x8GB DDR4 3200 MHz, 16-18-18-36, 1.35 V, running at 2933 MHz / 1.2 V I've tried using both the AMD Ryzen Master suite as well as my BIOS, but absolutely nothing I have tried will get my RAM running beyond 2933 MHz at 1.2 V and 16-18-18-36 timings. XMP doesn't work. Manually adjusting everything to the RAM's stated specifications doesn't work. The various tools in the MSI BIOS for choosing predetermined RAM settings don't work. The only way I've managed to get my RAM to run at speeds higher than 2133 MHz is to leave everything on auto except for the RAM frequency, which runs stably at 2933 MHz / 1.2 V. Trying to run my RAM at anything faster than 2933 MHz at 1.2 V causes an infinite reboot loop until I clear the CMOS. I have the most recent BIOS. What do I do? I've seen people claiming to have systems with RAM speeds well over 3000 MHz with the same RAM I'm using, even with stock CPU speeds. Am I screwed until more updates are released?
  2. My RX 580 uses one 8 pin and one 6 pin power connector. My PSU, a Seasonic M12II 620, came with two cables that split into an 8 and 6 pin connection each. Seasonic recommends using two cables for video cards over 225w and one cable for cards under 225w. I have a Powercolor Red Devil Golden Radeon and currently have it powered with two cables but would like to know if I could get away with using only one power cable.
  3. I already placed my order, but I don't think I'll be too disappointed. A CPU cooler isn't super difficult to change later on if worst comes to worst and it winds up being not good enough. Thank you for letting me know, though! I'm so looking forward to playable framerates on new titles.
  4. Alright then. I took the monitor out and added the Arctic Cooling unit. Monitors go on sale often enough and I can always pick one up later if I find my current one unsatisfactory. I think I'm good to order, then. I greatly appreciate the help and discussion.
  5. Which of these would be best? The Thermaltake would save me $20 but I don't know what the difference in cooling performance would really be. They're both 120mm fans. These are the only reasonably priced units I saw that had AM4 support out of the box and 120mm fans, and that would fit in the case I have selected. Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 Arctic Cooling Freezer 33 I also added this monitor to the build.https://m.newegg.ca/products/N82E16824116784 I can go 1440p for another $100, but I don't know if the RX 580 would be ideal for it. But... Then it leaves the door open for future video cards that are more powerful.
  6. I think I'm about ready to order parts to do a build and would like one final opinion before I do so. Right now, the only thing I'm debating is whether or not I should add a 144Hz monitor to the build, and if so, what resolution (1920x1080 or 2560x1440). However, these are the parts I have assembled into a wishlist and would like to order before things go out of stock again. MSI B350M Mortar Ryzen 5 1600X (it's on sale for less than $20 more than the 1600) Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Rev. 2 (AM4 support) WD 256GB M.2 SSD WD Blue 1TB 7200 RPM drive Corsair LPX 2x8GB DDR4 3200MHz (reviews suggest that this RAM works well with Ryzen systems) PowerColor Red Devil 8GB RX 580 Golden Radeon SeaSonic M12II 620w modular PSU (80+ Bronze) DIYPC F2-O + 2 additional 120mm fans Windows 10 Home (USB drive format, 32 + 64 bit versions)
  7. I got the keyboard in the mail today. It has pretty decent software support and is an overall improvement compared to a membrane keyboard, but I'll have to get used to having no numpad. It has a sort of echo or hollow sound when the key is pushed back upwards by the springs after each keystroke but feels like it's built fairly well. The RGB and lighting options are very mesmerizing, but I think I prefer to have keys set to static colours but in zones.
  8. The 1600 comes with a Wraith Spire cooler. I had planned to use that since I don't plan on overclocking right away. Everything I've read about the Ryzen 1600 has suggested that the cooler that comes with it is adequate for most uses. Though, cooler is generally better and the money I'm saving from not going with the 1600X may as well be put towards a cooler. * Added Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 to the build. It's $30 and seems to be a good performer for the money spent. It supports socket AM4 out of the box, too.
  9. I've tentatively set up a build. I've been reading whatever info gets leaked about Vega, and it sounds like the Cards are going to range from $399 to $599 USD ($544 to $818 CAD) which is quite a bit more than I am looking to spend on a video card. For now, I have an RX 580 8GB card in my wishlist. I probably won't order parts until after Vega is officially announced and released, but if those prices are accurate I probably won't go with it. In Canadian dollars... AMD Ryzen 5 1600 = $299.99 Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 = $29.99 Patriot Viper 2x4GB DDR4 2666MHz 15-15-15-35 RAM = $89.99 Sapphire Pulse AMD RX 580 8GB = $319.99 (a 4GB RX 570 would only save me $50, so I decided I might as well use the 580) WD Black 256GB M.2 SSD = $149.99 WD Blue 1TB 7200 RPM HDD = $69.75 ASRock B350M Pro4 AM4 mATX motherboard = $114.99 (+ $25 mail in rebate) Seasonic M12II 520 80+ Bronze full modular PSU = $84.99 (+ $10 mail in rebate) DIYPC F2-O mATX mini tower = $54.99 2x DeepCool 120mm white LED fan = $11.98 2x Coboc 4 pin fan header splitter = $4.98 (I'm still debating whether I'd rather just connect my fans straight to the PSU, choose a case with a 5.25" bay for a fan controller, or if I should stick with the splitters) Windows 10 Home, full version, flash drive format = $134.99 Logitech XL mouse/keyboard mat = $29.99 Total cost = $1406.61 CAD (1031.73 USD) I'm always open to suggestions and changes. At some point I may update to a 144Hz monitor (and maybe even go 1440p), but I'd like to get a new tower first and foremost. I currently have a 24" 1080p / 60Hz monitor that will probably serve me well enough until I find something on sale to replace it.
  10. Alright, it's done. For $65 and free shipping... Even if it doesn't feel as good as a set of Cherry MX keys, I figure it'll at least offer an improvement over the membrane keys I've always used. A quick Google search reveals a few people with G710, 810, and 910 boards with broken keys but I don't see anything about the G410. I figured Logitech built durable stuff. This K120 keyboard has worked perfectly since I got it 6 years ago. All the letters, numbers, and symbols are all still legible with zero signs of wear.
  11. https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126408&ignorebbr=1 I've wanted a mechanical keyboard for a while now, and this keyboard, for today only, is marked down from $170 CAD to $65 CAD. I'm really debating snapping it up, but I'm wondering about the Romer-G switches. I've used a membrane keyboard my entire life so I figured I wanted a keyboard with some Cherry MX Reds since they're linear (I read that the Romer-G switches feel closest to the Cherry MX Brown and have a tactile bump), but $65 for a mechanical keyboard from a "big brand" name like Logitech seems like too good of a deal to pass up. A keyboard with MX Reds would run me anywhere from $100 to $150 (the Logitech Orion G610 with reds is $130). I already have a Logitech G9X mouse to pair it with, but I'm typing this from a sub-$20 Logitech K120. What do you guys think? Should I grab this deal while it's hot?
  12. I think I've made up my mind that I want to build an entirely new system and that I'm going to sell my existing tower to a friend that currently has no PC. There are just a couple points I've been debating with myself. Should I use a Ryzen chip (and if so, which one?) or wait for Intel's response and then decide on a CPU? Should I go with an RX 570, RX 580, wait to see what AMD Vega brings, or go with an NVIDIA 10xx card (GTX 1050 Ti? 1060?)? I'm fine with the 1080p monitor I have right now, but could be swayed towards one with a higher resolution in the future if the price was right. Maybe it's just because I've always used Intel/NVIDIA systems and want to try something different, but I feel myself being swayed towards an AMD/AMD system.
  13. Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll just hold off until Intel releases a response, then. I want to save as much money as possible if I do a new build and feel that AMD and Intel competing for business is going to be better for the consumer. To be honest, though, I don't know if I'd even have a use for all the power that even the least expensive Ryzen chip offers.
  14. I'm currently running a PC that I built in 2010 with the the following core specs. i5-760 GTX 460 4GB DDR 1333MHz RAM 1TB mechanical HDD P55 motherboard with USB 2, SATA II, and PCIe gen. 2 Purchasing a 250GB SATA III SSD, additional 4GB of RAM, and a GTX 1050 Ti would run me $330 CAD and would give me an excuse to re-do my cable management. However, for $900 CAD, I could do an entirely new build based around the following core specs. Pentium G4560 GTX 1050 Ti 8GB DDR4 2400MHz RAM 1TB mechanical HDD + 256GB M.2 SSD B250 mATX board with USB 3.1, SATA 6GB/s, and PCIe gen. 3 I don't think I need an exceptionally powerful PC since I only really use my PC for general stuff (web browsing, chat clients, video and voice calls, etc.) and light-duty gaming, and I'm just wondering if I'd be better off to slap some upgrades into my existing rig than to build a whole new computer. I'm still negotiating a price, but I have a friend interested in purchasing my current PC if I do decide to build a new one. I use a 1080p monitor that I plan on keeping for now.
  15. I'm on SaskTel (pro tip: the suck, and I'll be leaving them when my contract ends). I guess I should check out XDA then.
  16. I downloaded the Android 5.0.1 update yesterday, but it still feels really half-baked and a lot of my apps (especially my messaging app) freeze, lag, or otherwise run very slowly. I want to know if there is a way I can revert to Android 4.4.4, what I had before the update. I've found plenty of guides on how to revert on stock Android (Nexus) devices, but nothing for my specific phone. All I've found is some custom ROMs, but I was hoping to go back to exactly what I had or very close to it. Since I would most likely need to root my device to do this, maybe I'd be better off with a custom version of Android? Or, should I just wait for updates?
  17. I'm sorry to hear that, man. I can empathize a little, at least. I had a friend try and do the same thing, overdosing on Advil. He sent me a text message that he had swallowed an entire bottle of it but wouldn't tell me where he was. Took a good while until we found him parked in a field outside of town. I hope everything turns out alright for the both of you. I hope you can both find some peace of mind.
  18. I wound up getting into a Cruze in Tungsten Metallic. Already, it feels like it's built much more solidly than my Fiesta was. It's so quiet on the road, and loaded with features with 0% financing to boot. I figure I can have it paid off before the 3 year mark if I tighten my belt and double up some payments. The people at the dealership treated me way better than anyone else did, too. They asked me what I wanted instead of telling me what I wanted (like at the Hyundai and Nissan dealers. I asked to price out a mid-range vehicle and they both tried to convince me to get the most expensive thing I could instead), and bent over backwards with trying to help me. A+ service. My ONLY complaint is that the MyChevrolet app isn't supported on my S4, but the easy solution to that is to just go look at my gauges instead of looking on my phone. My key fob has some pretty crazy range, too.
  19. Interesting. I'll have to read into that. When I did my test drive, it felt head and shoulders above Ford's Powershift auto (which I would describe as rough and clumsy). This was in a presumably "unlearned" Cruze fresh from the lot, too.
  20. I drove a Chevrolet Cruze today, and it's my new favourite. It's got everything I want and then some. It's got more power than my car and is way more responsive by a long shot, and they've managed to give it better efficiency. The shifting was silky smooth too. The rough transmission is my main gripe about my Fiesta. I ran numbers, and the trade-in for my car would pay off my loan + $1200. Chev is also offering 0% financing for 5 years right now, too. I'm gonna have to think on this one. Thanks again to everyone that's helped out. I'll be sure to post what I wind up with, whenever that may be. I have warranty on my current car until December, so there's no rush to make a purchase.
  21. I guess I'm just used to getting good mileage. The only two things my Fiesta gets right are handling and economy (the highest I saw it do was 44mpg on the highway). Some mid-sizes claim 35-40, and I could live with that. Tonight, I'm going to do up a spreadsheet of various makes and models and make side-by-side comparisons of price, economy, etc. And then I'll have to set up some test drives. I'll swing by the used lots here too and see what they have to offer. Might do another spreadsheet for that.
  22. I had read that the Avenger got terrible mileage (in the realm of 30mpg on the highway). Is that true?
  23. I'm hoping to test drive a Fusion this weekend. The Fusion has pretty solid reviews, so I would hope the it's better built than my Fiesta is. It's been in the shop for warranty work about every two months. I still can't get past the whole bit about the transmission crapping out on me not even two years into having it. I've had multiple speakers stop working (and I don't even like loud music), my heat stopped working, my door sensor went and I had to disconnect my battery every night to stop my interior lights from burning out, not to mention safety recalls. On the same card, I've seen people with Fords where they drove it off the lot ten years ago and never had to do anything more than routine maintenance. As for insurance, my insurance is pretty cheap. In Saskatchewan, it's more based on your actual driving history instead of predicted risk. Drive badly, pay more. Make lots of claims, pay more. Keep your record clean, and SGI slides you a discount once in a while. It's always nice to get a letter that says, "Hey, you haven't run anything over lately. We're gonna charge you $10 less a month for insurance from here on out."
  24. I'll keep my eyes peeled, then. Thanks to everyone for the advice. This is turning out to be more difficult than originally anticipated.
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