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killall-9

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About killall-9

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OCC

  • Computer Specs
    Asus M3N72-D Motherboard
    AMD Phenom II x4 3ghz currently 3.5ghz stock voltage
    4gb Mushkin XP2 8500 DDR 1066
    Nvidia Geforce 8200
    Dual 640gb seagate sata hdd's in raid 0
    Lite on DVDRW CDRW Drive
    Lite on CDRW Drive.

    Stock cooling for now, gotta dig out my old danger den water cooling setup.
  1. ok speedfan and coretemp both see the idle cpu temp at 39c, all other monitoring software says 70c, the spec on the phenom chips states thermal shutdown at 62c, at 70c i would have let the magical blue smoke out. So it must be ok, however under full load with prime 95; coretemp and speedfan show the max cpu temp of 56c, so i think i will replace the heatsink with that xigmatek rifle unit anyway, and i'll just get a hardware thermal sensor, and mount it next to the cpu's heat spreader. i checked with asus, flashed the newest bios and same issue with false temperature reporting. i just hope the bios doesn't have a thermal shutdown on the cpu as i have found no way to modify the thermal parameters of the cpu in the bios. the board is a M3N72-D.
  2. just installed coretemp in windows, it shows my cpu idling at 39c, i did have the cpu oc'd to 3.6ghz, but changed back to stock in june due to the temps rising in my house from summer. should i trust coretemp's reading?
  3. the sensor i believe is in the cpu die. also the temps are reported the same in linux, the bios, and windows. is there any diagnostic that would test the on die sensor? well other than swapping coolers.
  4. Ok for the past week or so my processors idle temperature has been steadily increasing, it used to idle around 36c, progressively it has got to the point where it now idles around 70c, i checked my thermal paste, i used arctic silver 5, removed and reapplied. this dropped the temp by a single degree for 1 day. after removing my stock cooler i noticed that it seemed to feel lighter, also while the machine is on, with the cpu temp being reported at 70c the heatsink feels slightly colder than room temp(around 70F) is it possible that whatever liquid was in the heatpipes has somehow leaked out? I found no sign of this inside my case around the motherboard, anywhere. however i remember when i initially built the system, the heatsink felt quite warm, as it should. i do not dare stress the system in the event that the cpu is really running that hot, and am currently posting this from my girlfriends laptop. I am going to order the xigmatek rifle cpu cooler on friday, but wondering if perhaps there is another problem, i don't have any other heatsink compatible with the am2+ socket design to test, and am unsure of what else could be the problem. anyone else have a problem like this?
  5. just simple gnome, running under ubuntu 9.04. the second pic shows some compiz action.
  6. if your still getting the buffer i/o errors that could be a sign of a bad drive, it all depends on what in your case sdb is pointing to, i get those errors but they only pop up when i have game installation disks in my dvd drive. if you were getting those errors with raid enabled they wouldn't have pertained to your hdd's unless you had a seperate hdd not in the array. at least in the case of fake raid (your motherboards soft raid chip) ubuntu would place those devices on /dev/mapper/nvidia_fbgfdfec1 or something similar depending on your raid chip vendor. your screenshots listed sdb as the device with i/o errors, you'll have to find out what that device is, and even then it could just be some corrupt data or something a low level format could take care of.
  7. I have windows 7 and ubuntu jaunty dual booting with nvidia Raid, i'm using raid 0 but the instructions are the same. you have to install dmraid after you boot into the gui of the ubuntu install. heres a link for getting raid going on ubuntu: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/FakeRaidHowto this worked for me.
  8. what about the geforce booster, does that aid in any kind of performance or is that merely for power saving as well?
  9. Just had some questions, i plan on purchasing a GTX 260 soon, since i can get a core 216 for $179. Anyway my motherboard supports hybrid sli and geforce booster, i was wondering with the 260 would there be any benefit to enabling the hybrid SLI / geforce booster. my board is a m3n72-d, the on board gpu is a geforce 8200. i'm not familiar with the hybrid sli and found limited info in my initial searches. i'm just wondering if its even something i should fool with. especially with the gtx 260's power. and also if there's no point in using the hybrid sli, would i still be able to use the onboard gpu for physx or something of that nature?
  10. i tried wine and the graphics didn't render properly(weird artifacting) i just made a new partition and installed XP to it. oh well i guess i still need windowz to play certain games. it kinda playes ok on my 8200, well with medium settings @ 1024x768. but i guess now i can play crysis since i have a windows partition, but i gotta have it at low settings. I needs my gtx 260. At least my current card plays doom3 real well. but thats under linux, i haven't tried it in windows yet to see if there is an improvement in performance. but your right, i can't play it the way I want to with my 8200.
  11. Go to this website and sign the petition, to get epic games to hopefully release the installer for Linux. it was supposed to be included on the installation media but got pulled for unknown reasons. I recently bought this game because all the other unreal tournament games I have purchased had Linux installers. now I have a game I can't play, nor can I return it as i have already opened the packaging. :-(
  12. I've only heard the 10c rule of thumb when talking about transmissions or engines, with electronics I believe the life expectancy is less static than double for every 10c drop. however any component whether it be electronic or mechanical will have a longer life when running cooler. To answer the original question, there will be no negative impact from running cooler, and if you can live with the noise go for it. you might get another 6-12 months out of the device.
  13. my girl is into computers in a big way, she actually knew what liquid cooling was and was able to identify it in one of my older systems. been getting her playing around with linux recently. and she'd rather use it that windows, simply because it is faster i guess. that and she loves playing with compiz. she currently has a craptop with an amd athlon 64 x2 and an onboard geforce 7600 gpu. she wants to build a desktop soon. thinking of steering her towards an amd phenom II on am3 with ddr3 and gtx 260's in sli. she likes the idea of sata raid after seeing the performance difference since i upgraded my pc. and get this, she doesn't want me to assemble her computer, she just wants guidance. she also wants a liquid cooling system as well. gonna try to get her to throw down on a danger den setup. she doesn't know allot about how computers work but she has a good idea of how to put one together. just gotta try to keep her on budget for her build. so she gets everything she wants.
  14. Did you have to turn your hyper transport link down to achieve stability? also what are you running for hyper transport width are you running 8 or 16? Nice rig btw i built a similar machine minus your graphics card, less than a week ago, same cpu, almost same board as you, just mine only has dual sli not triple. anyway just wondering about your northbridge setup. i'm still stability testing mine at 3.6ghz stock voltage and cooling. with 2.6ghz hyper transport and 16 on the width.
  15. killall-9

    N00b... :(

    your board should have a clear cmos jumper somewhere, should be printed on the board, clrcms clr_cmos clr_rtc, something of that nature, on most oem boards the jumper is 3 pins total and really close to the cmos battery bridged with a jumper. if you set the cpu frequency too high, or the memory timings and or frequency too fast, your pc won't pass the power on self test (post). note: it may take a few days for the cmos to clear by just removing the battery. if you have an oem board, chances also are that the FSB(front side bus) adjustments are not in small increments, you may have changed it up by 33mhz or so. You must find that jumper, and don't try to clean any contacts or anything on the board. thats not it. just make sure your good and grounded when you go poking around with jumpers on your board, the silk screen they use to print text on printed circuits is really small so you gotta pay attention. when you locate the jumper make sure the pc is off. change the position of the jumper to the bridge the other outside pin with the middle pin, then press the power button. your pc should fail to power up if you have the correct one. after this occurs move the jumper back and you should be back in business.
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