Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by panjang110

  1. sorry for bringing this thread up again, but i just wanna ask more question.


    1. is it normal to have the vrm1 running 20C higher than gpu temp?

    2. where is the location of the vrm1? is it the long strip close to the power connector or the smaller one next to dvi connector

    3. what is the safe operating temp of the vrm


    after doing some observation vrm1 temp gets even higher when i start adding more voltage. right now i'm running 1100mhz at 1075mV and the gpu barely hit 65C but vrm1 is hovering around 85C-90C, i was running 1100mV earlier but vrm1 temp reach 100C after a few loop of unigine.


    i don't think it's fan related cause i got 3 80mm 5000rpm screamer attached to the heatsink(thank god it's pwm controlled), and it's definitely  not poor ventilation cause opening the side panel or adding fan to the side panel barely dropped the vrm temp(gpu temp dropped 5C though). the vrm heatsink is attached with 3M thermal tape and the heatsink is very hot to touch so i think it's properly seated.


    i have never observe the vrm temp while running stock cooler before so i got no idea what the vrm temp should be at, any opinion guys? :dunno:

  2. nice mod can we get some pics please I'll grabbing a 7970 from bosco and I would like to switch out the annoying blower when it gets here. also I've just played games for a couple hours or let a benchmark run in a loop to see if the overclock holds.

    i forgot to take picture while doing the mod unfortunately but mostly it's just some grinding work on the base since 7970 die sit lower than the protecting shim i have to grind away the extra copper on each side of the base. but if i were you, i'd just buy the 7970 version instead it's really not worth the hassle since both version retail at the same price actually. unless you can get the cooler at a cheap price like me(30$ open-box) :)

  3. Reflash to the stock BIOS to start. Then use the latest iteration of MSI Afterburner  3.00 Beta 15 and enable unofficial overclocking limits so you can adjust the voltage to the core for increased clock speed. If you are limited to 1060Mhz you essentially have the worst clocking HD 7970 I have seen. 

    hi guys, sorry for the late reply... i've flashed back the bios to stock and finally i can adjust the  voltage without crashing.. right now running 1100mhz @1.1v :)


    btw what is the best software to test stability of the overclock? i'm using unigine heaven 4.0... too lazy to play game while testing for stabilty :P  i wonder if ATItool is suitable for this card

  4. I've just recently mod a deep cool dracula non 7970 version to fit on my 7970. i just couldn't stand the blower sound anymore. and now temps are getting better i think i wanna try overclocking the card further but i'm stuck at 1060mhz just like i did with stock cooler.


    my card is kinda weird, whenever i try to add more volt the driver crashed and i need to sweep and reinstall it back or it will give me artifact.. even at stock speed it will not accept anything higher than 1060mv(my card's VID is 1050mv).at first i thought it's temperature related but even with the new cooler it's the same.


    i'm running safe bios now,got the ghz bios flash a while ago on the second bios and the card will overclock further but temp with stock cooler is to much for me even at stock speed( 90+ C). haven't tried it with the new cooler though..should i try again the ghz bios?


    and another weird thing is on gpuz my vddc voltage reading is all over the place going up to 1.4v and sometimes all the way down 0.5v with average reading of 1.03v (BOTH 1.4V AND 0.5V READING ARE RANDOM SPIKE NOT CONSTANT)but afterburner shows constant voltage reading of 1.05v. can you guys suggest me a software to get proper reading for this? i'm really concerned with the vddc voltage spike at 1.4v

  5. i've tried the 2d-3d conversion with dirt2 it looks great, and i've tried tomb raider too with the built in 3d option and its amazing.. i feel like i i can touch lara's hair, 3d depth is great....but for now i think i will stick with 2d gaming, i feel dizzy after a few session of 3d gaming.. still not getting used to it

  6. Looks good. Send me a PM when your ready to talk prices.

    For the 550Ti you mean...


    btw this computer reestablishes and reinforces the fact than I hate water cooling (like seriously, it's HIGHLY unlikely I can sell the case, cooling and motherboard now)



    i wish you live nearby, i will gladly take that case from you.... i've  been a fan of that inverted xps case since it first came out


    anyway, why not use it yourself? you can change from blue beast to red beauty :rolleyes:  keep the motherboard for spare part and maybe mod the watercooling to cool something else

  7. hi guys, sorry for bringing this thread up but finally i after a month i sold out all of my stuff for funding and got over $300 and by the time i got to the retailer all the 25xi sold out and just 27xi ones left :wallbash:


    okay long story short, i don't wanna wait any longer so i end up with something totally different from what i intended to buy but i think i'm gonna love it here it is




    it's a samsung S27A950D a friend of mine decided to go mobile and selling off his alien along with this so i got it for cheap at $280. it's just 1 year old, no severe backlight bleed issue. just some scratch on the screen which is barely noticeable.


    but after using it for a few a day i think 120hz refresh is overrated. i barely see the difference in games except dirt2 and some other racing games. fps games give me less blur but still looks the same in my opinion. but still this is a very nice monitor, colours are great, good looking and the most important thing is this is way better than my old monitor in terms of gaming


    thanks everyone for your input :)

  8. hmmm.... sounds complicated, at first i thought of delidding the metal protecting plate then shave it a bit with a file. but it's not worth the risk and i still have 2 more years warranty on this baby. i think even the shim method will not work with my case since the mounting on the deepcool dracula is off by atleast 0.5mm. ( this is the original dracula, not the 7970 version so the 54mm mounting is absent i just use the 53mm one) and i have to force it in a little bit. maybe i'll grind the mounting stud a little bit so it will not put any stress on the pcb


    looks like i will have to wait for the grinding stone and continue my machining work

  9. puck, do you use the ek copper shim with your h70? i'm currently in the process of machining a deepcool dracula so the base will get contact with the die (i got this very cheap from a friend so i don't mind machining it)


    how is the performance? i have read many review saying that heat transfer is poor... i wanna know your opinion if you're using one. my grinding stone is busted and local store currently run out of stock so my work is halted, and the shim thing crossed my mind.

  10. with a gtx770 you will not be able to mount that 140mm fan on the drive cage cause it will hit the pcb,gtx770 pcb extend beyond the width of your motherboard all the way to the edge of your hard drive cage


    just get the acx version and mount your side panel case fan as exhaust, it should suck out the heat directly from the card. unless you play games with headset or people around you don't mind the 'vacum cleaner' inside your casing then you can buy the blower type :whistling:

  11. Seems like you've already set yourself on the HP monitor, but if you haven't purchased yet you might want to take a look at the Asus VS24AH-P too.


    It's a great monitor if you can find one in your locale.

    asus monitor is hard to find here,the only thing available is either the priciest or the cheapest... and believe me asus is like corsair, it always get overpriced here because of the brand.


    anyway, the only 24" ips asus monitor available here is the profesional series like the PA246Q and PA248Q which is way out of my budget

  12. after a few days scouring local shop for U2312HM i stumbled upon an Hp 25XI which is bigger and priced just a little more(basically the cheapest ips monitor for its size)...and i really like it, while the screen is glossy i can barely see any reflection. Hp must have done something to the glass for glare reduction.


    priced at 240$ i will definitely buy this. while U2412M is just 20$ more but 24" vs 25" is a no brainer especially if the bigger one is cheaper... it comes with all the cable,and three years warranty. just need to clear a little bit more of my stuff for funding.. i'm 40$ short :)

  13. The 2500k is sandy bridge, so for that you won't need an upgrade. Unless you plan on getting a new cpu, which I don't see why, then you need not to worry.

    actually i'm running 3570k now so the 2500k will be repurposed in another build for my friend while the motherboard will be for sale and the new owner asked me to update the bios cause he is using a 3570k too. BTW what bios are you running now?

  14. maybe i will check out the U2312HM, but i still got to find a dell reseller that keep one in stock... over here almost all reseller sell the S series only and the Ultrasharp is available online from dell. i really need to try it in person before buying it, i don't wanna end up buying something i don't like :wacko:  

  15. I use the Dell U2312HM and I love it. Have had it for over a year now and never had a bit of problem with it. Gaming is just fine on it with the eIPS panel, no ghosting or anything of that sort. Little bit of color calibration, custom color profile, and you're set.

    i haven't got a chance to see U2312HM in person but i like the fact that the AG coating is matte since i'm gaming in my living room where the lights never turned off, is it good for gaming? it's looks kinda office type monitor. not that i don't like the design but it's kinda dull looking....

  16. Prices for each monitor??

    this is the current price from local dealer converted to USD

    Dell U2312HM-IPS $169

    Dell S2340L-IPS $169

    LG IPS237L-IPS $181

    Asus VS239NR-IPS $156

    Philips Brilliance 237E4QHSD-IPS $180

    Dell ST2420L-TN $169

    AOC E2450SWD-TN $162

    BenQ G2450-TN $162

    Viewsonic VX2453mh $169

  17. my lg monitor is getting old and boring so after looking around for monitor i've come up with some 23 inch ips and a few 24 inch tn monitor. i will use it for gaming only so which one is better? ips or tn?


    all of this model is within my budget range and the price difference is just around 5-10$ between each monitor


    Dell U2312HM-IPS

    Dell S2340L-IPS

    LG IPS237L-IPS

    Asus VS239NR-IPS

    Philips Brilliance 237E4QHSD-IPS

    Dell ST2420L-TN

    AOC E2450SWD-TN

    BenQ G2450-TN

    Viewsonic VX2453mh


    the only model i'e seen in person is the S2340L and IPS237L and i kinda like the edge to edge screen(altough there is still bezel inside the screen) cheapest ips is the asus and the cheapest tn is the BenQ.. so which one i should get?

  18. how accurate is the reading on gpu-z VDDC? gpu-z shows the max VDDC is 1.432V . maybe it's just a sudden voltage spike but at 1.4V my card should have been fried right?




    my card is a reference gigabyte 7970 with a default vcore 1.049v, i'm running ghz bios right now and the default vcore goes up to 1.093v is this the source of the problem? the reason i run it with ghz bios is with stock bios the card won't oc any higher than 1060/1500 regardless of any voltage i try.. with ghz bios i'm right now 1100/1500 without any voltage bump. anyway is this the normal score for my card running 1100/1500?

  19. after 4 year of abuse i think my Phenom ii 550 is getting old and seriously affecting my gaming session especially in hitman absolution where i get average 25-35 fps with a 7970 so i decided to switch to team blue ( i haven't had one since pentium iii ) and the reason i go with micro atx is i wanted a small system that pack a punch,

    my first idea was to go mini itx but the bitfenix prodigy is too big for mini itx in my opinion and even bigger than silverstone SG09, node 304 is nice case but unfortunately it's not available here so i decided to scrap the itx project and go for micro atx.

    this is the part i already got for the build

    i5 3570k
    ( this is a gaming only rig so i don't need a 3770k)
    Asrock Z77 pro4-m
    (i know it's a cheap board, just trying to save some $$ for other stuff)
    Silverstone SG09
    (in the web the front panel look odd for a silverstone case, but after seeing it in person i think it's kinda cool)
    Kingston V300 120GB SSD
    (the cheapest 120GB SSD, just normal use nothing hardcore)


    old part that is going in the rig

    reference Gigabyte HD7970
    (running a modest oc of 1050/[email protected])
    Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600mhz
    (i was going to buy vengeance LP but they run out stock at that time)
    Cooler Master V8
    (since asrock board got 775 mounting hole i can skip buying a new cooler for now)
    Enermax NAXN 82+ 750w
    (what the hell is naxn? i'm still trying to find out what it mean)
    WD Caviar Black 1TB
    (4 year old drive, sata 2)




    first up is table bench, i need to test it before it gets in the case... i don't have a single link dvi cable so i have to use the gpu, and lucky me the board posted on first try




    The casing is pretty small for a micro atx, i suggest that that the top fan removed prior to installation for easy assembly

    , sorry for the poor pic, i have no digicam picture is taken with my phone camera. for a casing this small i think silverstone should have use a shorter usb 3.0 cable, the cable in the picture is about 500mm. i basically have to tie up the cable or i'll have it dangling inside the case, another thing that should be considered when buying this case is psu power plug orientation, lucky for me my power plug is vertical. i've seen some other build where the power cord goes the other way around like the second picture






    cable management is great in this case, there is a lot of space behind the motherboard to tuck in the wire. the only fixed cable on my enermax that i didn't use is the 4+4 cpu power. i highly recommend a modular/ semi modular psu for this build.


    as with hdd placement, i think it's genius and there is airflow from the top ap181 fan to cool down the drive



    everything in place right now, the v8 is slighty tilted due to offset on the 775 mounting hole but nothing is touching the cooler so i think it's going to be fine




    the casing next to my old haf 922. it's just amazing how small this thing is :woot:




    finished build on my desk, now i have more space :thumbsup:




    still doing some testing right now, and some overclocking.. i will post an update on cooling performance later. :wave:

  20. i recently reinstall my windows in my new ssd but i forgot where is my new 7601 build windows dvd so i have to use my old 7600 build retail dvd .after the install i convert my data disk to dynamic disk to extend is't partition size from unused partition previously used for windows and turn it into 1 single partition for data. but last night after updating to service pack 1 the data disk is unreadable :wallbash: WTF?! i just lost my half gb of data because of an update?


    after tinkering with the setting in drive manager prove useless, i decided why not use sytem restore and roll back to previous state.. and YES my disk is now readable :thumbsup: but i'm stuck with no service pack. is there any any way to convert it back to basic disk without losing data? and then proceed with service pack update? i don't have a spare disk to save the data so i'm not willing to experiment with a fresh install


    my disk config right now is


    ssd-basic disk

    C: windows/boot Drive


    HDD-dynamic disk

    D: data drive


    before converting


    ssd-basic disk

    C: windows/boot Drive


    HDD-basic disk

    D:previous windows drive

    E:data drive



  21. Turn on speedstep again. The rest looks fine for 24/7 IMO.

    i have try turning on speedstep but the cpu needed more vcore to be stable, funny thing is when there is no load vcore dropped to 0.920v as if power saving is enabled but the cpu speed didn't drop to 1.6ghz like it normally does. is this normal?


    i really don't wanna run it 24/7 i just wanna find out how much i can squeze out of this thing.  this build is strictly for gaming so i really don't need crazy overclock

  22. i finally finished my build yesterday , and i really wanna try oc'ing it but i've never use intel before so i need some guide.please? :thx:


    my new build


    asrock z77 pro4-m

    corsair vengeance 1600 8gb pair

    coolermaster V8

    kingston v300 120gb and wd black 1tb

    enermax naxn 750w

    hd 7970 refrence

    silverstone sg09


    this UEFI thingy is new to me, so i have try some oc'ing my self and this is what i do


    cpu ratio 45

    inte lspeedstep disable

    internal PLL overvoltage enable

    power saving mode disable

    cpu offset voltage +0.100v

    Cpu loadline calibration 100%

    cpu PLL voltage up 1 notch( i dont remember how much as i'm at work right now)

    VCCSA also up 1 notch

    i also disable c1e,c3,c6 and package c state

    other option is either on auto or default setting


    boot up to windows and prime it for 15 min no bsod, max temp on all core is around 70-72c.. cpuz reports my vcore 1.192v fluctuating between 1.200v and sometimes 1.224v but 1.192v most of the times and cpu speed fluctuate between 4500mhz-4499mhz. my question is did i do this the right way? or do i need to change more setting? i really don't wanna kill my new chip :(  due to a simple wrong setting. there is to much setting in bios for my head to take it all, i thought this is going to simple as overclocking black edition amd chip

  • Create New...