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Everything posted by puzzled

  1. The single standard card I was running in the primary slot stopped working a couple of days ago. I'm going to test it in another system next week, but I have a feeling I have 2 dead cards.
  2. Are you getting any lit fault LEDs on either card? I'm on my 3rd board in the last calender month, & it's running fine now with a 6600GT, but I didn't buy 2 Crossfire cards just to let them sit on a shelf.
  3. It looks like the cooler on the X1950PRO is out of the way also. No more SATA worries.
  4. It's not the new PSU. I installed a 6600GT card that I had on another build & it works fine.
  5. After using it for a day, it's definitely much louder than the Thermaltake.
  6. What does a blinking red fault LED mean? What does a solid red fault LED mean?
  7. I've had 2 POST codes come up. The 1st was CF. This has been replaced by the code 7F. I've had what appears to be a dead master card from day one, but a functioning standard card up until yesterday. I just changed the PSU to an OP1000 so amperage is not a problem. The master card has a fully red fault LED. The standard card had a blinking red fault LED with POST code CF, & a fully red fault LED with POST code 7F. Any ideas on what the problem is?
  8. I have Vista on my laptop & when it times out it has to be powered back up like you state. I haven't been able to figure out how to make it stop doing this.
  9. I installed it yesterday. I had to modify the mounting of it because it's about 1/4" longer than the PSU cage. The PSU cage in the CM Stacker is longer than most to start with. I used 4 motherboard standoffs to fill in the space between the PSU mounting plate & the case itself.
  10. If I had the short cooler this card has I wouldn't have made the switch to DFI: I guess I'll be throwing together the Abit AT8-32X as a secondary system. Does anyone have a link for video card power consumption, preferably max consumption?
  11. The cooler on the x1950 will hit the red & black SATA ports next to the chipset cooler. It looks like the removal of the full length cooler on the X1950 Pro will help access to the SATA ports. This looks like it will clear the SATA ports, but will still take up a double slot because of the cooler.
  12. I have a Thermaltake Purepower 680w that got some great reviews. I bought it for use on an older 6600GT SLI set-up. It was fine for that, but is questionable for use on a X1950 Crossfire set-up. Three 12v rails divided unevenly in to 42 amps. With 3 separate rails there is no way to use all 42 amps. I ordered a Silverstone OP1000 that has a single 12 volt 80 amp rail with 88 peak amps. This will eliminate any questions about the PSU being a factor in the trouble shooting my X195O master card problem.
  13. You have to be careful with the Asus boards also. I have an A8N-SLI here also, & a X1950 would interfere with the SATA connectors. IIRC, the SATA ports are in the same place with the SLI & Crossfire boards. An 1800 series card would seem to fit though. Abit really has gotten their act together in the last couple of years. Using x64 really hasn't been a hindrance with the last couple of boards I've built, RAID drivers & all. It's been pretty much pack the board full of components, load the OS, F6 the RAID driver, & sit back & relax. None of this minimum build stuff, then adding another piece & praying that it works, before adding the next component & repeating the prayer until you're done. The Asus board is fine for x32 usage, but finding drivers that work with NVIDIA RAID under x64 has been impossible.
  14. I had a lot of problems with the CFX3200-DR/G. I'm on my 3rd board & will wait awhile before I swear it is trouble free. I have an Abit AN8-32X that has the same chipsets as the DFI board. It was problem free & one of my easiest set-ups. This was with RAID through the ULI chipset & installing XP Pro x64. The reason I put it to the side is that when installing X1950 cards the SATA connectors get bent in half & come off the board. I'm going to use the board in another system with smaller ATI cards.
  15. If I have this correctly, in the future if you go with some power hungry video cards, you will be using one rail for each card. That would leave you with the 3rd rail for everything else. You might want to get something a little more powerful to future-proof it as much as you can.
  16. What I forgot in the original post, & will now add, is the quality of the tuner attached to everything. I don't know how well an internal tuner works compared to a set-top box. I use a Motorola set-top tuner. IIRC, it's a HDT-100. I also tried a PC HDTV tuner card & it wasn't anywhere as sensitive as the Motorola with the same antenna attached. The PC card might work with an outdoor antenna, but that's really a last resort. One other thing to add, you can't run a cable signal & an over the air HD signal through the same cable. This is true even if you split the signal from two in to one, & then from one in to two with a diplexer. The signals interfere with each other & you get nothing that you hoped for. The only way to do it correctly is to run a separate line for the HD signal. I figured this one out when trying to tie an outdoor antenna signal in to the one entrance for cable outside the house.
  17. I never got as far as having usable crossfire. My single X1950 works fine in the primary slot, no LED's, my master card doesn't work in the primary slot, but throws a red LED.
  18. I tried a Samsung originally, & it was useless. I'm currently using a RCA ANT537. After doing some research I realized why the Samsung was such a poor choice. Some HD channels come in on VHF, & some come in on UHF. The Samsung isn't capable of pulling in the VHF channels, only UHF. The RCA can bring in VHF with the antenna in the main silver body, & UHF with the "rabbit ears". It's still not as effective as a good outdoor antenna, but it works well enough for where I live.
  19. Who knows what limitations were placed on the designers? Why do our own personal rigs have more than the stock amount of fans if what the manufacturer put in there was adequate? I have a Thermaltake Purepower 680w. It has the cross-flow fan set-up & is quiet. Here is the PC Power and Cooling Turbo-Cool 1KW: Notice the front side is perforated with holes. It's not completely sucking PSU air out of the casing, it's moving interior PC case air over, through, & out of the PSU. It just doesn't have the inlet fan on the front.
  20. There really isn't anywhere to attach a fan inside the front of the power supply casing. It would have been nice if they had made the case a little longer and supplied an inlet fan to go along with the outlet fan. What about perforating the casing to allow cooler air from inside the PC case to be drawn through the PSU? Would this keep the fan speed & the accompanying noise level down?
  21. What information do you need? If I run a single card in the primary video slot the master card does not work, yet the standard card does. The master card also has the red fault LED lit. I had read that the red LED will come on when not enough power gets to the card. Obviously that is not the only reason it would come on.
  22. Has anyone tried one of these yet: http://www.silverstonetek.com/products-op1000.htm It looks like it has a healthy 80 amps on a single 12 volt rail, with 88 peak amps available. 1000 watts continuous, with 1100 peak available.
  23. I see you have a single rail PSU. I may not have enough output to run dual cards, but I should still be able to boot a single card in the primary slot. I can do that with a standard card, but not the master card.
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