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Technohydra

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Everything posted by Technohydra

  1. The Dominator ram is excellent stuff, if overpriced in my book. Corsair makes the best stuff in the industry, but you do pay for that in cold hard coins. I'd recommend that you look at the Anandtech overclocking memory review where they compare ram head to head, and see what the results are. Just as an example, Buffalo Firestix routinely clock over 1100mhz, and they're pc2-6400, for about $160 US. The DFI Infinity Dark is a monster for OCing. I'd have to recommend it over all other producers, especially Asus. Just make sure to get the version with all solid caps on it.
  2. All fps is, is gpu, ram, and bus speed. In other words, how fast can the hard drive send the rendering data to the ram and cpu, then to the gpu, then into your eyeballs. Get a good gpu, like a 320MB 8800, make sure you run 2 gigs of ram to avoid bottlenecking by the timings, and up your bus speed. By that I mean overclock the fsb, even if you drop the multi's to the point that you gain no cpu or ram speed, the fsb being overclocked will allow data transmission to occur at it's maximum rate over the whole system. Much as I like the Core's, if you're dead set on making a new rig, and you're not worried about benching scores, go with AMD for the price difference, run 2 gigs of ram in dual channel, and get a good gpu to process the info.
  3. It is SD Ram for sure, now it's just a question of the size. 64, 128, 256, or maybe 512. Get a close-up of the label and it'll be all good.
  4. Yeah, but the voltage drop is significant. The power that the voltage represents is quite large. Assume that the dimms operate at 10 amps(just for numbers sake). 10x1.8 is 18 watts, whereas 10x2.4 is 24 watts, or a 33% increase in power consumption. Having a memory block that is the same speed and 33% more power efficient means that there is more leeway and headroom. At 2.4v, the dimms are likely maxed, not that they need to go higher. At 1.8v, there is the possibility of running the ram at a 1:1 with the Penryns for quite a ways.
  5. LILO is an order extension. It stands for "Last in Last out" and descibes the order of a compress or decompress action.
  6. Hmmm... you might try to set the CAS to 3 and see if that gives you enough room to get 1T working. The other thing is that 1T takes voltage to work, make sure you're running the max safe voltage for these dimms, +10%. That will keep you under warrenty specs(i.e. 2.8v, +/-10%) and give you the extra juice to power the increased command rate. Also, download and burn a copy of Tmod's boot CD and flash to either the 704-2bt bios or the 406-2bt, 704 being prefered. Do a Cmos clear after that, and then try again. These bioses were made by BT of OCZ memory, and seem to be more geared towards memory clocking/timing. Edit: Also grab a copy of CPU-Z and Everest. Everest will allow you to check the SPD settings of the ram, so you can see what the SPD chip wants to run. The other sad thing is that this stuff may be rated to run the speeds it can only at 2T, something you run into with 'lower end' memory makers. Let's try everything else before giving into this though, hehe.
  7. I agree. Look into something like this. I built an overclocking Core2 rig for a friend with one of these bad boys in it, and it works like a champ, without breaking the bank. Nothing very fancy, but it'll do just fine for you.
  8. Check here and see if it's what you need. $25 is tough to beat.
  9. I'd recommend using TAT (Thermal Analysis Tool) from Intel. Core temp was my utility of choice, but it started causing me issues. Unless you jacked the volts straight to 1.55, there is almost no way your cpu can be over 70c. Do double-check the mounting, make sure you got all the pushdowns in and then rotated to lock them. Do a Google search for "download TAT Intel" and you'll find it right away.
  10. Wasn't really able to fit this into any other catagory here, so I just figured I'd toss it in here. For those of you that haven't seen it yet, or need to use it for referance, here's an expanded Litho of the Barcelona micro-landscape. Sorry if this is old hat, but it's always nice to have the lithographs to study when trying to understand the limits and traits of new cpus. [ IMG] http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa281/Technohydra/barcelona.jpg[ /IMG] Sorry for breaking the size limit, but it's too hard to actually see anything useful if it's much smaller. EDITed: for user friendly pic and saved original link also...
  11. I'm going to do the hotfix for the SATA controller bios and install TAT and see if this doesn't fix the issues. Will update. As to who said the E4300's are warm, I ran into about 4 reviews in a row that claimed that, and it seemed to fit with what I'm seeing, so I just accepted it and moved on. If this is not the case, I'm sure the only thing left to change is my heatsink itself, as the base of it doesn't leave...well, any clearance when installed. An Ultra Extreme would be tits, I think.
  12. Agreed, I need to pony up the cash for an Ultra 120 Extreme. I am still having issues with random restarts(not BSOD's), particularly with 3D Mark '05 or 10+ hour Orthos runs. I have yet to get all the way through it on my present OC, even though I'm 8+ hours stable in Orthos. There's a thread on this in the Intel OC area, with the listed settings. And for the love of god, what is the max safe temp for a C2D? I considered 50c max safe for the 939's, and that's all I have to go on.
  13. The chances of you getting to 3g's is very slim with an X2, but it can be done, if rarely. Try this, drop your multi to 9 and try to run 334 fsb. I find that a lot of voltage and heat are involved in a multiplier step, and if you can drop a multi level and increase the fsb to compensate, you'll get better results. Heck, I got my FX-60 to 2.9, undervolted .250, by dropping the multi from 13 to 9. Also, if you want to try and get more out of the ram, drop the 1T timing. It will even out the loss of 1T and then some to get 10% more Mhz out of the total system at a 1:1 ratio. Not a big deal either way, as dividers are just fine as well. And as everyone says, do go slowly. Add a few megs, Orthos test for 20 mins. If stable, do it over again. Once you get to where you want to be, be sure to orthos test for at least 8 hours(I like 24, personally).
  14. No, I have an XP 120 running full bore on it. I also have 2x120 fans in, 2x120 fans out, 2x80 fans doing topside exhaust. My load temps are 51-53C at 1.275v. I'm also getting random shutdowns now. Not BSOD's, just kill and restart. MCP need a few more sparks? Restarts occur during 3D Mark 05(not 01), or certain other high load situations. I am however 8+ hours stable in Orthos. Any thoughts?
  15. Could be you're right on the edge of a strap limit. Back it down a 15mhz, and see if you still get lower scores. Hitting a strap will raise the latencies of the Northbridge, and lower overall performance. The key is to find the balance between a give strap and the OC you achieve on it.
  16. Got it looking something like this. FSB: 400 CPU Multi: 9 CPU Volts: Auto Ram Mode: Unlinked Ram Freq: 1000 CAS: 5 RAS-CAS: 5 TRRD: 5 Min Ras: 15 CPC: 2T 2.7G on stock volts, and I hit my heat limit, not my OC max. All this put me up to 39,250 in #D Mark '01. I'll keep working on it and hopefully get an OCDB entry up soon.
  17. This is resolved. The 4300's are hot by default, and the crashes were a combination of 1T timing enabled and a bad Windows install.
  18. Heya Wev, please post the IC BIN numbers you have, and I'll cross-check it with my parts catalogs to see if I can find a match for you. Supertalent may use Samsung IC's, or it may be Winbond, or any number of other things.
  19. Jam it in an orange slot and you should be ok. You may have to clear the cmos. Unplug the power supply, remove the batery, move the jumper to the clear position, push it power switch and wait an hour. Put everything back in place, and try it again.
  20. To be honest, anything above 600 is just for looks, but it takes less than 20 minutes to do, so you might as well do it right, hehe.
  21. Ok, I thought I had this thing running just fine, but I guess not. At 1.250 volts, the cpu is idling around 33 degrees, and load can get it up to 45. With an XP 120 and low voltages, this shouldn't be the case, should it? I expected more like mid 20's idle and low 30's load. This is at stock speed, nothing OC'ed. I'm also getting Orthos failure in under 10 minutes and BSOD in under 24 hours. Memory set too tight, or the 1T, maybe? Throw me some ideas, and I'll keep trying on my own as well.
  22. The third pic is the melted remnants of that POS heat sink after I got pissed and fired up the acetaline torch.
  23. The 680i is just fine, but there are a few issues still being coded over in the bios. 2-3 months and it should be perfect. I agree, the Gigabyte offerings have been great lately. The MSI board topped at 430 fsb, which is still very good. From what I've seen, the only way to top 500 fsb is the 680i or the 965p, and my recent experience with Intel chipsets has been less than stellar. Stick to the nVidia stuff, IMO. Don't fear the 680i, but for a decent overclock, the 650i SLI is a good way to go.
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