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Everything posted by Technohydra

  1. I've been having trouble with my 7950 GX2 lately. Every once in a while, I'll get an NV4_disp.dll BSOD. The card temps are fine...Also, after about 24 hours of being on(load or idle), the screen will flick to black when a window is opening, and occationally will cause screen artifacting. Is this the sign that my gpu is crapping out on me? I'm replacing it with a 8600 GT for the time being to see if that clears things up.
  2. If memtest and Orthos/Prime pass, you're ok for day to day stability. HDD corruption is possible, but most of the time you'll be ok...about a 3-5% chance of corrupting, I'd say. As for selling memory, list it for sale here in the forums. Just be willing to ship to the states, and you should get a decent price for them. I'll even help you re-mail if need be.
  3. Hey, don't worry about compatability too much here. People make it seem like a bigger issue than it is. What I'd do is grab some Buffalo Firestix PC2-6400 from directron for $104.95, shipped, and a Dominator fan array from performance-pcs.com for $15. Drop the Firestix in, jack the Ram volts to 2.3, and run as close to 800mhz at 3-3-3-8 timings as possible. 2.3v is the max covered under the warrenty, and the biggest gain on DDR2 comes not from MHZ, but tight primary timings and a high FSB.
  4. To be honest, you'll be better off just running a matched 2GB kit. The conflicts with different types of chips is just fine...can sometimes be a pain to work around, but nothing horrible. The issue comes in when you mix dimm sizes and CAS latencies. You'll never find TCCD in 2x1GB, but what you'll likely find a lot of is UCCC. BH-5 and UCCC are a terrible match, as BH-5 eats volts like crazy, while UCCC likes low voltage. The other thing is that you run the risk of corrupting your HDD's due to differing CAS latencies, even if you set the CAS to be the same. Also, the allocation and bank setup for 1024MB and 512MB are vastly different. And if you're not running Vista 64, I think the max that will be recognized is 2.48GB anyways. Personally, I'd go for the G. Skill ZX kit you have listed, as it has the best timings, and just run them. Then if you still think you need more memory, get a second kit of it and run 4x1GB under Vista 64. It costs more, I know, but if you eat one less pizza a week and sell your old ram, in a month, you can be rocking your second kit.
  5. Treat chipsets just like what they basically are; gpu chips. Achipset will hit slowdown at around 65-70, and will damage itself above 75. 90 is almost always instantly fatal. Keeping the chipset in the high to mid 50's while under overclocked load is totally normal and acceptable.
  6. This is an issue where the chipset sees the SPD chip on the ram as wanting 2.1v. The bios default is 1.8v. The difference is around 10%, which is the threshold of error for a C1 alert. Basically, the board thinks that it's severely undervolted and will not boot to prevent damaging components. The simplest trick here is to keep a 256MB or 512MB dimm around that only requires around 1.8v, and if you get this issue again, stick that dimm in instead of your normal ram. Enter bios, change the voltage manually to 2.1v, then shut down and put the normal ram back in. It'll boot every time. Just remember, the board will not change to accomidate the hardware, you have to make it change.
  7. As a result of all this, I can now report that my NB is almost 20 degrees cooler, peaking out at around 50 with 1.55v in it. Crashes of NV4_disp.dll have disappeared completely and the systems performance in 3D Mark 01 went up by 900 point, just for getting rid of heat inefficiency. Now I just need to start using some of my Coollabratory Liquid Pro on the CPU...
  8. The Corsair will be good, as it's 4-4-4-12 at 2.1v. The Crucial would also be good, as it's 4-4-4-12 at 2.2v, and made of D9's If you're overclocking, get the Crucial, if you're running stock, grab the Corsair.
  9. Well, I finally got sick of that crappy heatpipe setup on the chipsets of my BFG Tech 680i and decided to go with an oldie but goodie...Evercool VC-RE's! Yes, they fit on both chips perfectly, and do a fantastic job of sucking heat out of the board. The downside to this is that you have to have an active cooler on the SB, but I don't see it as a big deal, personally. I'll take some pics later today and get 'em up here for you, it's kinda sexy...
  10. A note to everyone waiting for a shipment from me: I was in the ER and hospital this weekend, and so could not attend to my mailing duties. All Current sales will ship out today. Sorry for any delay, but I could barely walk across the house Sunday, let alone to the post office with boxes.
  11. It is, but I have one person in line for it. If the deal goes through, you get first rights.
  12. Good to hear, a video tutorial would really have been preferable, but I don't have the setup to do it. It's not tough to do, and with CPU's especially, after you get the nickel off, it's super fast and easy. I've also found that using ridgid sanding blocks like what you'd use for stripping or auto-body are a great way to lap the huge heatsinks. Just move the block instead of the sink, hehe.
  13. Let's put it this way, I have a good ref. board, and I want the DFI 680i LT, hehe. The big thing there is the A/GTL adjustments, which help out in clocking alot. As for being a challenge...I dunno, everyone said the NF4's were tough, and I got it on the first try...but the settings in this bios would be...interesting...to keep happy. If you have the money to throw, I've gotta recommend the DFI...otherwise, any ref board, like the EVGA A1 will do almost as well for less money and less hassle.
  14. LOL, true that. In any case, it was nice to actually talk to you rather than just brush by you in random threads. Working on an OCDB entry and a third guide, so hopefully I'll be avatar worthy sometime in the future, hehe. New items added.
  15. @Angry: I have to many offers of cash to hold off on the E4300...I think I'm going to sell it. I'd like to see if you have some specific hardware for sale though, I'll PM you the details. @Orb: My client wants to sell the 7600 for cash, as he wants to purchase a ram upgrade(Mushkin Blackline 1066's). If you're still interested, PM me and I'll take care of business with you. @Branjo, I got your PM, and replied with some info. All Current PM's replied to.
  16. Not a problem, it needed to be resized in any case. I might consider a trade on the E4300. It's the only piece of hardware listed here that's actually mine, hehe. Let me know what you're in the offering for, and I'll deal with you from there. I'm always looking for good DDR2, cooling gear, especially for North and South bridges on my sig board, odd things, bay hardware.
  17. Ah, so the drivers aren't still being developed...not a big suprise. A friend of mine is using the EVGA 680i and likes it a lot. I've also had nothing but good things happen with my BFG Tech board. Might just be me, but I try to stay away from Asus these days...I've had 2 boards from them be very lackluster.
  18. Yup, do a CMOS clear and see where you sit. Alot of times that solves issues. Also might try totally removing your old graphics drivers, use Driver Cleaner or something else if you like, and re-install them. That usually solves those weird issues.
  19. With hack drivers, you can run SLI on any Crossfire board, and usually just as well as on any "SLI" board. The only reason I stick with nVidia 680i is the 2 true 16x slots for the SLI setup. I'm sure others have it too, but I don't look into the Intel chipsets much(personal prefference).
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