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About peteski

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  1. Following on from the previous post: When clean-installing Windows you should always use only the bare essentials needed to complete the task and add all the extra stuff such as extra hdds, DVD burners, card readers, printers, etc. one by one afterwards. You need to make the install as least complicated as possible for the best results. So in your case you should have connected: cpu, 1 stick ram, 1 optical drive, 2 hdds for RAID-0 Array, graphics card, monitor, keyboard, PS2 mouse and psu. Adding peripherals later on gives you some control over drive-letter configuration, although you can change drive letters in Windows if need be. Slightly off topic I know but I hope you may have learned something.
  2. Well I decided to update this thread with a reply and to give it the status of "Resolved". I had no luck in removing the leds from the plastic Front-X holder, after some consideration I thought that 3.5mm dia. leds would look a little small arranged in a row in a 3 1/2" bay, so I have decided to cut the red leds off and plan to solder 5mm dia. leds onto the wires instead. Still the same colour mind, red, to match with the hdd activity led and fan controller led. Can anyone tell me, when the diagnostic leds have run through their sequence and everything is running correctly, do they remain lit or do they switch off after a delay? Appreciated, guys!
  3. I can't suggest any reason why they are reluctant to give good help and support over the telephone, did you try emailing them or were you needing the answer quickly!? LOL Regarding the use of the orange slots (DIMM slots 2 & 4), this is recommended by DFI and everyone (most probably - depending on setup) who uses or has used this board. Glad to be of help.
  4. I can definately say that your board does support 1GB memory modules and the stuff you've got in your sig is a perfect choice! Put 1GB stick in each of the orange slots.
  5. Creamy - easier to spread on all types of bread and you don't need to use a toothpick afterwards! :tooth:
  6. Yes, the top statement is very true when speaking about non-Raptor type drives. I am also a firm believer that you should not mix and match different brand/type hard drive in any non-RAID system setup and this rule should be applied without deviation and across the board when setting up RAID arrays. For an example look in my sig. - I practice what I preach! :angel: Some companies go so far as to claim that problems will surface when using different branded hdds in the same system, is this a valid claim in everyones experience or merely a marketing strategy/ploy?
  7. Oh yes, depending on which brand of hdd you have, jumpers may need configuring correctly. This may not be as applicable now as it was say up to 5 years ago and since the capacity of your hdd was correctly recognized in your previous setup you can rule jumpers out as being the cause of the problem. Have you enabled support for large hard disk drives in the BIOS, IF it is present as an option? Other than that, I advise you to go with the general consensus of opinion and slipstream SP2 onto your XP install disk. There are numerous guides out there on the web and it really is not that difficult to do.
  8. LOL, Well in that case I withdraw my apology and wish I was as clever as you! LOL Back on topic now: If setting up a RAID-0 array with a PATA hdd and a SATA II hdd using the NVRAID controller as in this tutorial: http://www.angrygames.com/DAGF-1.htm how does the controller cope or deal with the fact that the read/write speeds, burst speeds, search times and cache size are totally different on each drive? :confused:
  9. I know this may be a bit late, but are there any jumpers on your hard drive that need configuring correctly so that all of the 250GB capacity is recognized?
  10. I apologize for the extra work I may have caused you. Just a BIOS options set up screenshot as those in the original post with the Phy SATA 3 RAID Enabled is all you'll need to do. (as if you need instructions! LOL) At the outset, I actually thought that you would need to go back and re-set up the RAID-0 array using same hardware, everything, and redo the tutorial until I woke up! LOL
  11. Which model Tornado performs better on the SP-97 then? I have read reviews that say the 80mm version slightly outperforms the 92mm model. Maybe it's because the air flow is concentrated on where it was designed to on the SP-97 with that dia. fan?......? I have one spare with a lapped base and the neo-backplate too. All original with spare mounting screws, etc. No way would I let it go! NB. the ripples you can see in the lapped base are the reflections of the white sheet on which the pictures were taken. The HSF I am currently using is a pretty good match, I have never had cpu temps go above 40 degrees C @ full load.
  12. Excellent tutorial A_G! I know this thread doesn't cover the guide/tutorial in which you set up a RAID-0 array using 3 x 80GB Hitachi hdds: http://www.angrygames.com/nf4raid-1.htm but I cannot find a thread anywhere that deals with it. Anyway, in that guide linked to above you used the nVidia (NVRAID)Controller because the hdds were SATA II. Which controller would you use if setting up a similar RAID-0 array using 3 x 36GB Raptors on the DFI Expert? The Raptor is still designated as a SATA I hdd. Also, I wish to point out a possible error in the tutorial I am speaking about. :angel: On the first page of the guide, the 4th screenshot or picture showing BIOS options, shouldn't the Internal Phy SATA 3 RAID be set to ENABLED? It's just something I noticed a while back and I haven't seen any thread referring to it as one would expect because the triple hdd RAID-0 array just wouldn't work. When setting up RAID-0 on reboot (F6) only 2 hdds would show up. Great work so far on the site, I wish I could visit and spend more time here but that just isn't possible ATM. Keep up the good work everyone! Regards, Peter
  13. This may appear to be a little off topic but in comment to the previous post quoted above: This attachment may be good for cutting holes in soft materials such as wood, plastics, fibreglass, etc. but I would not even think about using it to cut holes in sheet steel or aluminium in this case (no pun intended! ) The clamping arrangement is insufficient and the cutting tool/bit would "grab" as it cuts and for those of you who have experienced drilling thin sheet steel or any other metal you will know only too well that this is quite dangerous. Good luck with the air circulation problem. Regarding the 120mm diameter blowhole at the top of the case I have done exactly the same mod a number of times and have the fan exhausting air out the top of the case. Not only does it expel hot air it helps to create good air-flow beginning with the front intake fan(s). I would also remove any fancy designed fan grilles and replace them with the standard wire grille. On the outside of the case too, as this obstructs airflow. If noise is not a consideration then why not use fans with a higher CFM rating? Guaranteed to get results. That's a nice case, the early model Lian-Li PC 7X Full Tower Server case?....? I believe they have brought out a newer version that utilises 120mm intake and exhaust fans. It's this newer model that I will be using in my NF4 W-C rig. Regards, Peter
  14. I have had a good look at the holder and tried to poke/push the LEDs back out of the plastic Front-X plate using a blunt tool on the slightly proud LED and have had no success in moving the bulbs even a slight distance! You can not attempt to remove them by twisting them using the connecting wires for obvious reasons, and so this leads me to believe they are glued in somehow. I don't see how they could have been made a push-fit fitting either because the materials involved are too fragile. There are of course several other ways to achieve this mod but these involve a lot more work and would cost extra - something that I would consider only as a last resort. Maybe it's time once again to fire up the trusty Dremel and get destructive! :eek2: LOL
  15. Hi there all D-I-Yers, I want to remove the 4 red diagnostic LEDs from the Front-X panel that comes as an extra with the above motherboard. I then plan to drill 4 holes in a 3 1/2" bay from a Lian Li PC 65 case to accept the LEDs and then it will be a lot easier to diagnose start-up faults rather than have to peer inside the case. Only thing is how do you get the LEDs out of the Front-X panel without damaging them? Does anyone know if they are stuck in there with some type of adhesive or if they are a press-fit? I don't mind destroying the beige plastic holder if I have to, being armed with some kind of info first will help me a great deal. Thanks for any help, guys! :angel:
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