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Clark Hume

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About Clark Hume

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  1. Good. Now go over to BleedinEdge and start a new thread in the OCZ General Memory Overclocking and Tips forum. Tell Marcus or Ryder that you have OCZ4001024PFDC-K memory and the Expert board. They may be able to provide the settings that will allow you to POST. That's how I finally did it.
  2. I've a similar rig to yours, and I had a hard time getting started too. For me it was ram woes. I finally got OCZ ram and used the cookbook settings for the Expert with that ram (published on the BleedinEdge forum). Only then could I get up and running. But once I did, all was well in OZ. OCZ's recommended settings for my ram didn't result in a stable system. Some very savvy people have tried lots of ram types with lots of DFI mobos over there. And that's what worked for me and my Expert. You seem to be experienced and open to trying new things, scrounge around the forum and see if anyone has had success with ram that you have (or can get your hands on) and the Expert board. Maybe that will work. Best of luck. (BTW, I think you can eliminate your PSU as the culprit.)
  3. OK, I have flashed to the 406 bios. I can now run my Patriots at 265 at 3-4-4-8 with no problems during any test or bench. Interestingly, after clearing cmos and loading optimized defaults, my memory will start up normally after powering off the computer from windows. However, once I've run up this overclock, I have to power cycle the PSU to get the memory recognized once again . . . Darn, I thought the bios change solved this problem too! Well, at least it doesn't seem to be faulty ram.
  4. Well, I tightened my timings to 2.5/4/8/4, and, at first things went well: passed one run of OCCT and 25 cycles of memtest #5, but got some errors in memtest#8. So, I removed the dimms, cleaned them and the slots, and swapped them top to bottom in the orange slots, making sure to reseat snugly. Now only BSODs. Twittled with the timings and reset the bios values w/ CMOS reloaded, but no go, only bluescreens. I re-swapped the dimms bottom to top, and now I can boot at the tighter settings again! I don't get it. You know, clearing CMOS to optimized default values will not allow these sticks to POST. And neither did my old Patriot 4800s (now defunct and also TCCD). I'm only able to run these 3200s on the old 4800 bios settings. I don't seem to be narrowing things down here, probably I should flash to a newer bios.
  5. No, but let's assume, for the sake of argument, that they're stable with prime95 too. Why would powering off and on the PSU make any difference to whether or not this memory is recognized? The sticks must present a different profile to the mobo after the PSU power cycle than before, right? Or does turning off the PSU--without discharging the mobo via the case button--cause a change in the mobo itself, allowing it to detect hardware differently w/ than w/o that powercycling?
  6. Sorry, my bios version is dated 6/10/2005.
  7. Yes, I have run OCCT for about an hour and a half, memtest and WMD full suites for several hours each (and memtest #5 and #8 separately for lots of cycles), as well as all of the 3DMark benches, Aquamark, CrystalMark, X3 demo, Everest, SuperPi, Sandra2005, PCMark04, some of the RightMark memory tests . . . and one or two more odd-ball apps just for comparison to other rigs and setups of my own. So, these sticks work stably, as expected in use, and meet my expectations in the DOS-level tests and in windows 3D applications. I like 'em. But why don't they greet my motherboard with familiarity during powerup, since they work so congenially with my setup. BTW, I cannot use any memory divider except 1/1 with these Patriots, just like with my OCZ sticks, otherwise I get BSODs at desktop. Only 1/1 works. My bios is 6/10/2006. Could that have anything to do with it?
  8. What do you think is causing this . . . ? I replaced my very serviceable OCZ 2Gb Golds (which OC'ed to 260) with these new Patriot 3200 XBLks. The Patriots run very stably at 265 at 1/1, which is the max HTT my processor will tolerate. Well, whenever I shutdown my machine normally via windows, if I attempt to start up via the atx power button on the case, I get a series of long beeps and the LEDs stop at three still lit--that means a ram failure. But the ram works perfectly once I POST! If, however, I turn the PSU off, then on, before pushing the powerbutton, then the ram is recognized, and all is well. So . . . what is that about? I've had ram before that could not be recognized due to inappropirate timing or voltage settings, and due to just bad sticks, but I've never had such well behaved memory that just can't get in the front door! Anyone?
  9. I built this rig about a year ago and immediately hit an HTT ceiling of 270 at 1.65 v core. I was happy. Replaced my old trusty 2x256 Corsair XMSs with the Patriot sticks, which worked to spec-- 2.5-4-4-8 at 1/1 and 2.9 v--for several months. Then it began. I started having general stability problems with games, normal apps, and benchmarks. So I loosened the memory timings to 3-5-5-10. I lost a step in performance, but regained stability . . . for a couple of months. Now, to ensure stability, I've had to reduce my HTT to 265, again losing a step in performance. I've reformatted and restored my OS a couple of times, replaced my powersupply and harddrive, used my old Corsairs and even tried some new OCZ platinums (4000), and swapped video cards. Is my rig dying a slow death? Did I shorten her life by overvolting my CPU? Can I mess with some settings to recover some of my performance? Any ideas?
  10. dhimiter I am very interested in your problem . . . not because I have an answer, unfortunately, but because I have had stability issues with my rig. I've replaced most components, except the mobo and cpu (which I nearly swapped today for a new 3500, but it was a return, so, no go). Anyway, I am beginning to think that the problem is either my memory (same as yours) or the memory controller on my cpu. If you make any progress, please post your results on this thread. I'll stay tuned. Good luck.
  11. Did I . . . unplug the PSU? No. remove the battery? No. clear CMOS? No.. . . but I did the rest, religiously. Besides, I've swapped RAM many times without ill-effects by just cutting the power from the mobo and draining the juice with the power button first. Do you really think we damaged our powersupplies by removing RAM with the power switch OFF?
  12. Well, I'm just glad that it wasn't the capacitors on the motherboard, or the memory controller on the CPU. That would have been real money, not just $59 for a new PSU!
  13. I've been running my rig for a year now, and until about a two months ago, it ran wonderfully. Then, one day after swapping some old corsair ram for my patriot sticks just to see what they could do, I noticed a short delay between the time I hit the power button on the case and the time the processor fired up--the case power light came on and the orange standby LED lit up, but the DRAM power LED and the diagnostic LEDs remained dark for a few seconds. When the processor awoke and the fans came on, the system POSTed and windows loaded. I had no problems after that. Then things got worse. After replacing the corsair with the patriot ram, occasionally the delay would be as long as two minutes. I even tried two sets of OCZ 4000 platinum sticks. but the problem persisted. Finally, the delays became the norm, and I was afraid to shut my system down for fear that it would never revive. After scouring this site and trying lots of setting tweaks--even inserting a capacitor in the ON-button circuit--I broke down and spent some money. I replaced my PSU--a highly recommended and apparently functional Antec Neo 480 (now discontinued?!)--with one of almost identical specs: an Antec TruePower II 480. Now, my rig awakens at the touch of the power button. And I am happy. I am also curious. What happened? How can a power supply fail to start a system, but then supply it with good power while running windows under rigorous conditions? And why did Antec discontinue a much lauded product (the Neo 480) and still provide an almost identical one (TPII 480) for about half the price?
  14. I had a very similar problem, beginning a couple of months ago, and I solved it yesterday. I replaced my Antec Neo 480, which worked flawlessly for almost a year, with an Antec TruePower-II 480 (nearly identical specs to the original PSU). Now, my rig fires up every time as soon as I push the power button. Used to be that when I pushed the power button, the orange mobo light would come on, sometimes the blue case light would light up (sometimes not), and, eventually, the computer would start up. Sometimes I'd wait as long as two minutes between pushing the power button and POST. I tried lots of fixes, including the .22 uf capacitor trick, and nothing else worked. Needless to say, I'm jazzed right now. I also had a real degragation in my RAM timing tolerances coincident with this problem. I'm going to tighten them up and see if I can get them back to spec real soon. Try a new PSU. My TP-II cost $59 at Fry's. Good luck.
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