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About Mike89

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  1. I figured out how to do it. Downloaded "mkbt". Extracted it to C:mkbt I already had a Windows 98 floppy boot disk so then used that and put it in drive. Opened command prompt and navigated to the mkbt folder. (cd c:mkbt). Then typed "mkbt -c a: bootsect.bin" That made a bootsector from the floppy files and put it in a created "bootsect.bin" file in the c:mkbt folder I didn't need to format the flash drive cause it was already "Fat". I then put in the flash drive and typed in the same command prompt window, "mkbt -x bootsect.bin h:" where "h" was my flash drive. Now this is where I got a bit confused. After typing above I got this in the command prompt. * Expert mode (-x) * Warning different filesystem ID Size=0bytes OEM="(=_[sIHC" VolLabel=NO NAME" FileSys="" I'm not a DOS guy so I thought that was an error. I then went into the flash drive and didn't see anything there. I was perplexed for awhile wondering what to do next. I then read the directions again and saw the same thing on the site directions. So it was successful and nothing appears in the flash drive, even with hide protected operating files unchecked. The site directions make no mention of this (that you won't see any files). I still can't quite understand that (maybe someone more knowledgeable will come in here and explain that). Now I then copied all the files off that floppy boot disk to the flash drive. Booted with flash drive in, and went to BIOS. Under "Removable Disk Priority" the only thing in there is the floppy drive so couldn't do anything there. I then went to "Hard Disk Priority" and saw my USB flash drive there listed third behind my two hard drives. I moved it to the top. Saved and rebooted and whaddayaknow, it went into the USB boot disk just like the floppy. Very cool. Another thing. The directions mention to open any "config.sys" or any .bat files that you had previously copied to the flash drive from the floppy (with notepad) to see if there are references to "a:" which could screw some things up since when windows boots to the USB, it's now showing "c" drive instead of "a". I did that and found a couple and just back spaced them out where only the "" was left. I also notice something. I did this once and awhile later tried to do it again and it booted into Windows instead. I rebooted again, went back into the BIOS and saw the flash drive was at the bottom of the list again (so I moved it again). Seems if the USB flash drive is ever removed/taken out before subsequent reboots, the BIOS defaults back to the way it was (cause I guess it can't see the USB drive since it's not hooked up). So that's it. Whew! Spent some time figuring this one out, but I just wanted to know how to do it (to see if it was possible and if I could do it). Link to these instructions: http://www.weethet.nl/english/hardware_bootfromusbstick.php
  2. I ran that program but got confused along the way. At one point there was an option to either configure the flash drive as a fixed disk (which I don't think is what I want) and another to configure as a floppy. Problem was in the description there was a warning the current drive key would get erased. I sat there and stared at it for a few minutes trying to interpret what that meant. I cancelled out because I didn't know what I was getting into there.
  3. Would be a neat thing to be able to use my USB Flash Drive as a boot device instead of the floppy to flash firmware, or needing to do anything in DOS. Anyone done this? It is worthwhile?
  4. Wow. I've read that link and to tell the truth didn't get all that much from it. It's all based mostly on conjecture and claims, one says this worked for that and another says this worked for the other and another says neither worked for neither, and another says one worked for one and the other worked for one and then another says, "gee, I'm confused", and another says, "oh bull crap". Heh heh, like you said, a mess. In a game when one says he "feels" it ran smoother from something, I take it with a grain of salt. One's experience of "feel" can be way different than another. Hell, I've played games one time and swore they played a bit different (feel) another time. Same games, same settings, different day! When it comes to feel, sometimes it's real, sometimes it's just in our head. Jeez
  5. I would like to think that (and would sure love to hear AMD say it). It sure seems though that AMD would release some info regarding that with the drivers instead of just stating the voltage/speed issue. I would sure think that would be the highest priority for AMD to tout it's drivers (claiming performance increases). But curiously, no mention of this. Dunno, just strikes me as an odd oversight. I mean doesn't it seem rather odd in the email I got back from AMD that this was not mentioned at all (installing the driver to increase performance)? That would have been the FIRST thing I would have said if I was AMD. Like, "dude, definitely install this driver to get you a nice performance increase from the stock XP drivers" besides the voltage/speed adjustments that the driver makes with Cool-n-Quiet. Here is another email I just fired off to them. Hope it gets answered. I just can't believe I'm the only one with this question. If I am I must really be anal (I have been called butthole before, heh heh). Seems someone would be curious about this and do an article testing it like when new video drivers come out. This would be right up Anandtech or Hardop's alley but there appears to be no interest. Would love to see something like that with some concrete benchmarks and/or stability tests.
  6. It just doesn't seem there is any benefit to using the driver unless you are also using Cool-n-Quiet, other than having the word "AMD" showing in Device Manager. Otherwise AMD would have posted a driver not related to adjusting voltage/speed. That's the only thing AMD's description of the driver addresses and states that it's for.
  7. Well I've had both and know which one runs cooler. Get whatever one you want, both are good.
  8. Cool. Hope you got the all copper one, it definitely dissapates heat better than the aluminum one, especially if you are overclocking.
  9. Don't forget the XP-90c, I still haven't seen anything better.
  10. I have the XP-90c (the all copper one) on my Ultra D and it fits with absolutely no clearance problems whatsoever. I had this heatsink on my previous system (a P4) and I liked it so well I bought another one for my current system. As far as I'm concerned, it's still the best. You will have to remove the stock retention plate on the front of the motherboard and use the one that comes with the XP-90c (it still screws into the stock backplate on the back of the motherboard) but that's no big deal at all.
  11. Seems like that last part is describing the AMD Dual Core Optimizer and not the AMD driver. I would think the AMD Optimizer and the AMD 1.32 driver would not be in harmony with each other if one is overclocking. I un-installed that driver (after reading the AMD response) and will monitor things from here. I do use the AMD Optimizer and the Microsoft Hotfix (and I do have my system overclocked). I have always been a bit leary of the driver when I see it states the system will change voltages and cpu speed as needed, especially when running overclocked. I don' t feel comfortable with the system doing that, I would much rather control that part myself so I know what the cpu speed and voltage really is instead of guessing what the system is doing to it. Questions pop up in my head like, is the system regulating voltage/cpu speed based off the overclocked settings or the stock settings, stuff like that. Makes me a bit apprehensive (and why I emailed AMD in the first place).
  12. I emailed AMD about the 1.32 driver cause I was a bit confused if I should be using it or not. Here is my email to them. Here is their response back to me.
  13. No offense taken but I don't necessarily agree that doing a simple search will give clear cut answers (on this issue anyway). They are anything but clear cut, because if they were I sure wouldn't be trying to waste anyone's time with this thread. It comes down to which posts one wants to deem as accurate and which ones to dismiss (that's always the trick, isn't it? Heh heh). I may take stock in one and someone else in another. As far as just another thread of the same thing. Well, sometimes one thread's heading (and content) (different day, different people) will attract the attention of someone that another thread hasn't. Just the way forums work. I can think of many times where I've got good info on a particular thread when there were others on the same subject. I never liked the one thread fits all approach having to sift through a giant thread with 500 posts in it. In those threads a lot of people never get their questions addressed because people lose track. I saw that post. It was one of the comments I referred to (in fact I sent a PM to him to get some details, no reply yet). I can also provide separate posts that say another thing. It was my point to begin with. I'm not trying to be a hard butt here, I just want to make sure I get this right (before I break out my credit card which seems like it weighs about 50 lbs, heh).
  14. You say do a search. I mentioned that I did that already and I also wrote about the results on those threads. That's what is confusing. One says one thing and someone else says another. Most of the posts are from people who don't even have the board, a lot of conjecture and "how it should work" stuff, but not much from people who actually have the setup. Then a lot of those say different things, like I posted about. I don't know about you but when I hear from someone who supposedly has this setup and states that he had to move the jumpers to get both cores to work (and even posted before and after benchmarks), another saying he had to mod the board, and another saying "working out the box", I don't draw any conclusive answers. It's like, who do I believe and which one is accurate. It kinda muddies the water a bit when realizing this decision is going to cost around $500-$600. Not exactly chump change.
  15. I have been scratching my head since the 7950 first came out concerning which DFI motherboards this card will work in. I have the Ultra D. I have read everything I can get my hands on in this forum from people's comments on this issue. I still don't have the answer cause the comments I read are conflicting. Some say it works out the box, some say you have to mod the board, some say you have to change the big jumpers, some say it's working with only one core, etc. In the meantime not one single comment from DFI on this that I can see. Sure would make this a lot clearer for those contemplating the 7950 (like me) who want the fully skinny if this card is going to work with their DFI motherboard, what needs to be done (if anything) to the motherboard, and if the card is going to have full functionality (both cores working). I can imagine how the DFI technical support must be flooded with emails asking these questions. So far I have not seen one person post any kind of official response from DFI on this. Seems DFI is leaving people hanging on this issue.
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