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Justintoxicated

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About Justintoxicated

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  1. I wanted to let you know installing the Nvidia drivers did make the drive hot swappable, however they crash my system (auto-restarts) once a week and would not pass windows verifier.exe on startup (cause an imeadiate blue screen)
  2. Do I purchased an external 1TB e-sata drive to use for backups. Problem is, that windows does not detect the drive when it powers on for a weekly backup. Any suggestions? I would appear Hotswap is not enabled for this MB? It is starting to show it's age... I might have to use the USB2.0 option to get it to do what I want but e-sata is ALOT faster, and I paid for the feature so I would MUCH rather use that if possible. I found some 3rd party software that will make all HDD's removable devices but if there is a simpler better solution than adding ANOTHER icon to my task bar, then by all means post it up!
  3. I think I will try a store in SD when Im visiting this weekend the have alot of stuff.. I just can't believe I spent this much money and recieved Bad MB, Bad Memory Bad DVD Writer... WTH is worng with manufacturers these days... Last PC I built for myself had Bad MB (epox) and went through 5 GF4 4600's and 8 months before I had a decent working card... PC I built for mom: Bad MB - replaced (killed memory) - replaced MB Died (Abit) NF7-S - replaced a second time PC I built for Sister works fine used heap parts too Well it is starting to have some issues probably the epox MB.... Back on Topic, will RMAing the MB back to newegg likely get me a Board that will work with my PSU or will it more than likely have the same problem as the one I have now?
  4. I'm still fighting with the switch bounce issue with my DFI Expert and I'm fed up with options right now that take 2 months to get a working board. Since I have to RMA my DVD Rom's back to newegg I'm thinking to RMA the MB as well. However I want to confirm that picking up a new MB will fix the switch bouce issue I am facing before I go wasting my time and money on shipping things. If not I may just buy a different brand Motherboard that will turn on and off like they are supposed to. I have not been able to locate a .22uf cap for months...
  5. my 620 watt enermax liberty has semi / cold boot problem... But only if I power down from the switch rather than windows. Make sure your PSU is DFI compatable because I don't think there are many that are. I'd look into a little more power if you want to run more than one HDD and SLI.
  6. The problem is that I can not wait 2 months for an RMA as I need this computer NOW, I didn't buy the most expensive motherboard available, to wait anotehr 2 months to get working parts... I Played this game before with Nvidia and I refuse to play it again with DFI, or anyone else. I would have to just fork out another $200 for a different MB. Wait 2 months for an RMA, that is just ludacris....Does it really take that long? Since the problem ONLY happens from a Hard Shutdown (if I shut down from windows it restarts EVERY time) would this indicate alone that it is a Motherboard or PSU problem specificaly without having to splice into the PSU's wiring to test with my DMM? I will see if I can find the documentation on how to locate these pins etc, but may not have time to take apart my PC for testing any time soon. I have already verified the PSU can be powered on and off (using the switch on the back of it, while jumpered) I had to do this to test my liquid cooling loop. but I did not put a switch inline with it, I should use a PC switch correct? I'm a little worried about killing the switch on my $180 case. Thanks for the info.
  7. so Enermax Liberty 620 watt is crap? This PSU cost me a fortune. I'm going to call enermax and see if they will cross ship me a new unit, if not I guess that I just wasted $200. Funny how they work fine on other motherboards.... I hate getting the run aorund from manufacturers, Enermax is going to tell me it is my MB and DFI of course will tell me it is the PSU...
  8. My Opteron ran dual channel fine? Although I did find one of the sticks to be defective and will be getting a replacement tomarrow. Random Restarts but prime stable for 48 hours.. I am confident the new sticks will work fine though, one of the sticks would not run in my NF2 board either (the reason for building my new computer was OCZ telling me that they do not gauranty compatability with NF2 board.. In your case it may be better to not pay the deposit and dispute the payment if you used a credit card. They will have you write a letter explaining the problem... $35 for them to spend 1 min poping the sticks in the compure seem ridiculous. Not like testing the memory actualy requires them to sit around and watch it...
  9. I have now been to several Radioshacks and I cannot find a .22uf capacitor. Anyone know if the one I have will work?
  10. I have the problem where if I push the Power button to turn off my computer I can't boot back up without shutting the power supply off and then back on. And I am tired of climbing under my desk) Any other time (resetting and shutting down from windows) I do not have this problem. I went out and got a 22uf cap, then realized im supposed to get a .22uf cap.. Went back to radioshack and realized they don't have any .22uf in stock (the only one they are out of lucky me) So will the 22 micro farad cap work or will it cause problems?
  11. you sure an hour is enough time? I heard more like a month or at least a week. Or just don't touch anything inside other than the fan wires... Be careful!
  12. Sometimes when PSU's are dying or dead this is what happens, everything turns on for about 5 seconds but rather than boot up it just shuts off. Is it all fans or just the CPU Fan? If it's all Fans it sounds like PSU Problem.
  13. damn I read the post wrong and bought a 22uf cap...supposed to be .22uf cap...
  14. I disagree, I went through 4 GF4 4600's before I got one that worked correctly and have yet to win the lottery, well the 4th one worke for a month before it blew up. 5th one has been running for several years now. Took 8 months to get the card though so when i finaly got a working one I had already purchased a Superior ATI card, that not only worked correctly at stock speeds (unlikr the ge-force) but also was able to flash that 9800 to a pro version for free As for this problem some PSU may be more sensitive to the switch bounce issues, more likely it is the ones that are more powerful and better for overclocking. Other than some which may have installed soemthing like a capacitor in case the MB did not respond properly. The issue is not with the switch as this same switch works perfect on other motherboards as well as the PSU works perfect on other boards, only the DFI expert has this problem (I'm sure some other MB's out there do as well). I'm going to go pickup a capactor right now, and shove it into the lead for the switch wires on the MB. Problem sloved no soldering needed.
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