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JacobJ

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  1. JacobJ

    I made a HUGE mistake....

    To maximize your chances of data recovery, do not write any further data to the disk, or partition at least, in question.
  2. Today, my computer shut down just as it was loading Windows. It just powered off. So I opened it up, and found my CPU cooler had fallen off the CPU. It was resting on the GFX-card heatsink, and didn't look as if it had shorted anything out - phew. So I looked more closely, and found that bits of the little plastic hooks on the mounting bracket - the ones the cooler's retention module fits onto - had broken off. Three small pieces in all. Evidently, after the cooler had been mounted for 5 months, they couldn't stand the strain anymore and snapped. The cooler was perfectly mounted, and the computer hasn't been moved, bumped, or anything like that, so it must simply be a case of weak plastic. To be fair though, the 64Pro does place a lot of strain on those little plastic bits in order to press tightly against the CPU. So now what do I do? Do I get a replacement from DFI, which may or may not prove to be too weak as well (though its not as if the forum is flooded with similar experiences), or do I get some kind of tougher bracket? I'd post pictures, but I'm having no luck with imageshack. Thanks in advance for any help :-)
  3. JacobJ

    Cheap CPU that runs very hot?

    And massive overclocking, of course :cool:
  4. JacobJ

    Cheap CPU that runs very hot?

    All in due time. I guess 'novel' is bit bold, but its part of a case project that is not quite defined yet, but will probably involve seperate cooling zones, a well balanced and largely unobstructed airflow - possibly ducting, Peltier plates and very very large heatsinks. More later
  5. JacobJ

    Cheap CPU that runs very hot?

    I... don't know... But now that I think about it... Brilliant. I'll just get me one of those then
  6. JacobJ

    Cheap CPU that runs very hot?

    I have a 478 mobo, so that would be good. This is the cheapest one I could find (new), though not so cheap on newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16819112208 A reviewer writes "Overclocked it to 2.4 ghz & it idles at 41C with stock c ooling". You sure this will run hot?
  7. I need a really cheap, possibly used, CPU that can heat up a case like no other. I want to try out a novel idea for CPU cooling, but I'm not willing to put any real money in it. I currently have a A64 3200+ that I'm not willing to risk burning up, and a Celeron A ca. 700MHz that doesn't seem to get really hot when overclocked - it overclocks really well on a stock CPU cooler and basically no case airflow, ie its not hot enough It doesn't have to run at high clocks or anything, it just need to get HOT. Any suggestions?
  8. Not on my budget I can't :-) No really, the really cool cases are just way to expensive. You would need a roomy case, if you want dual psus, thats for sure. But I would think a 205mm wide case (like many Chieftec cases) should be enough. A standard ps2 psu is 86mm tall. Leave 10mm for each side and a couple between. I think it would fit. Possibly, but I do think my reasoning is pretty sound. 1. On almost any given high-end gaming system, you have cold air coming in the front and side and exiting through the psu and possibly one or more other exhaust fans. First the air passes the chipset, cpu, vga card, etc and heats up. What you have left after that is basically a waste product, not suitable for cooling the psu internals. The hot air entering the psu drastically shortens its lifespan, by the normal rule of electronics lifespan being much shorter at slightly higher temps: I don't remember the formula, but its something like for each 10 degrees C over 20, the lifespan is halved. 2. If you're going to have a decent air intake, you'll need some exhausts as well. These exhausts can rob the psu of air, resulting in an even worse heat scenario. 3. Balancing the intake and exhaust is much easier if you use the same fans and fancontrol for both. Its very difficult to take the psu into that consideration. Well thanks
  9. :pop: :phzzz: 'ere ya go :-)
  10. I have actually written a tutorial about it, but haven't gotten around to having it approved. I'd be happy to email it to you, just remember that anything you do is at your own risk. Otherwise, read this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53030
  11. Mine is blowing towards the rear of the case, where I have an exhaust fan. I had to take the whole thing apart to rotate it 90 degress, but the end result was just as stable as before. And really, blowing hot air at your VGA card or PSU just isn't a good idea.
  12. Errr... That must be the one thing I didn't even consider. I guess because I can?
  13. Ok, so I'm thinking hard about how to do build/mod my next case. I've come up with a cooling principle thats a little different from what you normally see. I just want to run this by everyone, to see if any of you can spot any mistakes, or have suggestions for an improved design. Before you go and actually carry out the unusual mod, please remember that this is all complety theroretical. I don't know if the airflow dynamics will work out or not, so don't blame me if you fry your PSU, CPU, etc. Basically the idea is this: Take a generic midi or maxi tower case. In this example, I'm using two PSUs with 1 12cm fan each (you know the design I'm talking about). It could just as easily be done with 1 PSU, but happens to suit dual PSUs quite well. Mount 2 PSUs in the lower front area where you would normally have an intake fan and little else. Position the PSUs vertically, with the air intakes against the sides of the case (some PSUs will have brackets that are perfect for this, others will need some modification). Make airholes in the appropriate spots - obviously Put a 12cm (or 4 8cm fans if they can fit in there) exhaust fan(s) in the front. The combined airflow of the exhaust fan(s) will have to equal the combined air intake of the PSUs. Seal off the PSU area with a metal wall behind the PSUs, creating a separate chamber for them. Make holes for the wiring. I suggest a large rectangular hole for each PSU, with a foam or rubber seal. Possibly seal off any holes in the bottom of the 2,5" cage above the PSU area. The tighter the seal, the better. You will need a way to supply AC power to the PSUs, so make a cable with a male AC plug in one end (take one from an old PSU), and two female AC plugs in the other. Make sure the cable can handle the current that will be running through it, and that it is properly shielded. While you're at it, make sure both PSUs are properly grounded as well. Mount the male AC plug in the lower rear of the case, and run the cord along the bottom left side, as far from the mobo as possible, through a small hole in the PSU chamber wall to the PSUs. Make absolutely sure the AC wires are completely isolated. Failure to do so could lead to damage, fire, injury or death. I'm not even kidding. In fact, unless you really know what you're doing - don't do it. With the PSU part done, make a whole bunch of holes in the bottom left side of the of the case, and mount a row of your fans of choice. Then make an equal bunch of holes in the upper right side of the case, and mount an equal row of the same fans of choice. Seal up any other airholes in the case. Duct tape should work just fine, but then again if you've come this far you're probably not for quick solutions With my absolutely fantastically redicolously crappy drawing'skillz', I've tried to illustrate the idea: Any (well almost any) input is so very welcome
  14. Although screwing both psus in the case should provide a common ground, I'm not sure its adequate. My Tagan has a seperate ground wire, and I would probably make one from my 2nd psu, and put them on the same screw on the mobo. I'm speculating whether your unstable voltages were caused by a potential difference between the grounds of the psus, or by the general crappyness of your 2nd psu :-) I believe SATA is meant to be able to power the HDD without the need for a seperate powersource. If correct, it could indicate an increased risk of problems if it was in fact a ground issue. This, btw, would probably go for both IDE and SATA connectors, since IDE connectors actually have a +5V connection (although its only really used for drives that are too small to need a separate powersource, suchs as 2,5" drives - perhaps these could simply be removed if they proved a problem.) IDE connections here: http://computer.howstuffworks.com/ide3.htm Couldn't find SATA connection diagram. Does anyone have a link? Obviously its kindda hard to find out now, since that system was dismantled... Can you elaborate on that, as I'm not quite getting it? Do you mean that if you disconnected your 1st psu from mains, your 2nd psu would switch on?
  15. Gaaah :drool: :eek: Holy crap, thats about 2,5 times my budget. Niiice case though...
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