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About DevilSlayer1298

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  1. I've, personally, had the best results with the official 4/06/06 BIOS on my Opty 165 and OCZ Gold rev.2 DDR 500.
  2. What are your temps on your PWM? I had the same problem, but it was caused when the PWM was overheating. Download speedfan and tell us what your Temp2 is idle and load. When I had this problem my PWM idle temps were in mid to upper 50's and load were in the low 60's. I mounted a fan in my case blowing on the PWM and the temps dropped to low 30's idle and high 30's load and it doesn't stutter anymore. Check this thread out http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...740&postcount=2
  3. There have been a couple people that have had problems upgrading straight from 6/23 to 4/06. What you need to do is completely shutdown after flashing to 4/06 and on the motherboard set the jumper to clear cmos. What happens is that the 6/23 is so old that some of the settings do not translate well or are programmed with different names with the 4/06. Once the CMOS is clear then it will have the 4/06 default settings. See if it boots, if everything works go back into the BIOS and set everything to your liking. Tell us how this works out.
  4. Got a fan blowing over the PWM and the temps are in the low 30's. woot woot
  5. Theres someone at EOC that has their Opty at 1.7v for quite some time. At my voltage the life of my CPU went from ~8-10 years to like ~4-6 years. I'll probably upgrade in a year and half at the most. And the amount of voltage required to outright kill a CPU is probably around 2v. Not entirely sure.
  6. Again, its this problem that won't let me get an accurate stability test. Once the PWM temps reach ~63*C the CPU gets throttled and CPU temps and speeds lower. Once I find an extra fan I'll point toward the PWM and see if I'm prime stable. I'm quite sure that I need this voltage to be prime stable, less then this will cause me to error within a minute in prime. From everything I've read over at EOC (and I've been a member there for 2 years now) 1.55v is the generally accepted limit for air cooling and 1.65v for water.
  7. Ah ha, so temp 2 must be the PWM. In Nvidia NTune, the "System" temp is reading the PWM temp. I was confusing this temp with the chipset temp which is holding at a constant 43-44*C load and idle. The reason PWM is getting hot must be because of my CPU's high voltage (1.622v). This could be one reason for me to upgrade to an Expert since this isn't an issue with it. But unforunately I don't have the money ATM. I can't afford the down time either since finals are coming next week.
  8. My chipset temps were getting up into the low 70's when dual priming. I replaced the chipset cooler with the Evercool VC-RE as recommended. Temperatures are lower, but now I have a new problem. As the chipset temp reaches 62*C my CPU get throttled. CPU temps are is low 40's so its not the CPU throttle. I ran Sisandra's CPU arithmetic benchmark several times. The first run would give me the normal results, but as I run these back to back the score goes down. I tried flashing back to the 7/04/05 Big Tommy BIOS from the official 04/06/06 with the same result. NOTE: This problem only occurs when my system is overclocked to 300 x 9. When I run at stock speeds this doesn't occur. I tried fiddling with the chipset and LDT voltages. They were at +.1v over the lowest, so I tried lowest. Still dual prime stable, but the temps still climb up to 60+. Is this the motherboard throttling the CPU's speed or is this physical problem? And why the hell are my temps so high?! I thought it may have been bad air flow. The front fan is blocked by lots of wiring. I opened the case with no effect on the temp. I applied the proper amount of Arctic Ceramique, same amount as in Angry's video. Made sure to press down on the center to spread it. Rest of my system specs in my sig. How long is DFI's warranty just incase this is in fact a bad board? I have been getting these temps since I bought it. EDIT: I just realized, but in speed fan, which one is the chipset set temp. Temp 2 or 3? In the BIOS the temps are listed as CPU first, PWM area second, and chipset third.
  9. Well, your only options are 1. Find a friend that will let you borrow their hard drive 2. Get a new hard drive 3. Put everything to CD or DVD
  10. Before the North bridge was contained the memory controller and was were the FSB was produced. Now both of those functions are now on-chip for A64's. The remaining chip connects all the PCI-E/PCI slots, SATA, PATA, does the Nvidia Raid, LAN, sound, and produces the LDT bus and connects those to the CPU.
  11. There are alternate drivers for ATI, but ever since ATI started using the Catalyst Control Center I have found that just the official ATI drivers work best. I know that there are others, the only one I've used in the past was the Omega drivers, which were OK. I didn't notice any benefit in game and no increase in 3dMark. For new ATI drivers I would stick with ATI's drivers and not use alternative ones. As for your BIOS question, since you were upgrading from the 6/23/05 BIOS straight to the 04/06/06 BIOS there may have been conflicts with the old settings that the new BIOS didn't like. For BIOS recommendations, the ones that worked for me with no problems are the Official DFI 04/06/06 BIOS and the Big Tommy 07/04/05 BIOS. You can get the Big Tommy BIOS HERE The Official DFI 06/23/05 BIOS that came with your motherboard don't work well (and doesn't overclock well) and I had some problems upgrading from that version initially. Once I switched to the Big Tommy BIOS everything worked better and I was able to overclock a lot more. For chipset drivers, I don't think there are any alternatives to Nvidia's. Sorry if I sounded hostile, but there really is no ultimate end all combinations. The BIOS I recommended worked for me, while others didn't. The ones that didn't work for me worked for others. Its a long and tedious process to find what works best for your hardware. The main thing that effects what works best is memory. A lot of these alternative BIOS have special memory timing tables that work great with certain types and speeds of memory. The Official DFI BIOS are more well rounded.
  12. Download WinFlash and the latest BIOS (04/06/2006) from DFI's website. Not sure why you're having some problems with this version, but it works perfectly fine. When you flash them make sure when you reboot to go into the BIOS and "Load Optimized Defaults" then go back in and change everything to your liking. http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Download/bios..._FLAG=A&SITE=NA Then you need to go to Nvidia's Website and download the nForce4 drivers. http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_nf4_wi...2_amd_6.70.html Then go to ATI's website and download the latest Catalyst drivers. https://support.ati.com/ics/support/default...ge&folderID=293 There are no "special drivers" that'll make everything better or some sort of package that magically has everything you need, just download the drivers from the manufacturers website and thats its. For BIOS go to DFI, because DFI makes the motherboard. Go to Nvidia for your chipset because Nvidia makes the chipset. Go to ATI for your video card because ATI makes the video card. You're making yourself think its complicated, but its not.
  13. There's usually a sticker in between the PCI slots. The sticker has the entire motherboard name on it so that should tell you if its an SLI-D or not.
  14. Couldn't you just look at the motherboard and see if it has 2 16x PCI-E slots?
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