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pclstyle

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  1. pclstyle

    G.Skill ddr 4000 only run @ 192 mhz :( help!!

    yep, what he said. 2.9 is pretty high... and added to that, your PSU is lacking
  2. pclstyle

    G.Skill ddr 4000 only run @ 192 mhz :( help!!

    you're probably nearing your maximum oc with regards to fsb. but you can probably tighten up some of the other timings (Idle cycle limit, tRRD, tWR, tWTR, tRTW) and push your RAM some more. 264 mhz isn't a bad oc with these sticks, which aren't designed to go that high anyway. It's pretty average, with most people either not being able to oc at all, or maybe hitting 270-280 if they're really lucky. there's a thread devoted to g.skill hz sticks that can give you an idea of what timings to try and what's worked for other people... check it out. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41953
  3. pclstyle

    G.Skill ddr 4000 only run @ 192 mhz :( help!!

    yep it's fine... sometimes people try to tweak that extra few percent out of their machine, but if it runs auto @ 264, it's where it should be, and better. Good to hear you got it working, it's always frustrating when something doesn't go right. Now if you want, go do a little research, and you can push it some more Also: Those G.Skill's perform best at 2.5v - 2.6v ... any reason why you're @ 2.72? lower volts @ stock is preferable, leaves you more overhead for overclock I'm @ 3-4-4-8 @ 270, 2.6v
  4. pclstyle

    G.Skill ddr 4000 only run @ 192 mhz :( help!!

    post the rest of your timings if you want more detailed help... sometimes one random timing is the difference between 200mhz and 273mhz (in my case)
  5. pclstyle

    G.Skill ddr 4000 only run @ 192 mhz :( help!!

    orange slots, 2.5-2.6v, 3-4-4-8 @ 250 should be fine
  6. thanks for the replies, figured it out... apparently my ram hates yellow slots- i had shifted them during the hs/fan upgrade because the arctic freezer makes it necessary to sort of "wedge" the closest ram stick under the base of the heatsink. Instead of doing this I had moved the ram to the yellow slots, which made my whole system somewhat unstable (read: very). Once I returned the sticks to the orange slots, everything ran smoothly, and has been doing fine since last night (8 hours). Don't know what the heck is up with this orange/yellow slot business- i had thought it was just a rumor. Glad things are working, but there's a little horizontal pressure being placed on the bottom RAM stick and subsequently the DIMM slot- by the Arctic Freezer hs, which I would like to eliminate. Anyone with a similar setup have any suggestions for something that might have worked for them?
  7. I upgraded the chipset hs/f to the one stickied, and the cpu hs/fan on my mobo to Arctic Freezer 64. Now, my computer keeps restarting. All the fans are working fine- smart guardian shows their temps at their lowest they've ever been. However, after a few minutes in windows, my computer restarts, and the whole thing reboots. It does it repeatedly- every time, I get through a few minutes in windows, then bang. Any suggestions? I'm pretty sure the thermal paste and contacts are good, especially since the temps are doing good. Voltages and everything are stable too. Didn't change any settings at all. Everything is exactly the same, except the new hs/fans. :confused:
  8. Sorry to answer with all these hypotheticals but I'm at work right now so I can't actively test things on the fly. Just trying to get a decent working knowledge base for when I get home. I have recently added an ipod, connected via usb to the sytem. I can't completely rule out that this might have occurred immediately before the problem started appearing, but I'm not exactly sure. So if it turns out that there is indeed some kind of IRQ conflict, is there a practical solution I can use? Uninstall the IPOD drivers? I skimmed the windows support doc from a link in the other thread, and it seems like xp doesn't make it particularly easy, if at all possible, to manually change/assign IRQs. Thanks again.
  9. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try it. But "getting a better keyboard" seems strange because it honestly was working perfectly until just a few days ago. This is the same keyboard from the system I was running previously, on which I played the same games, etc. Is there some reason it would suddenly degrade like this? I didn't modify any keyboard settings, drivers, etc.
  10. So, recently I've been having this problem when playing games (War3, CS:Source), where the mouse and keyboard will just randomly hang up for a few seconds, and then resume functioning afterwards. It'll happen pretty regularly, which can be frustrating, obviously. For example: War3 - I'll be clicking or scrolling and then suddenly everything will lock up, and if I was already scrolling across the screen, it will continue scrolling all the way across the screen until everything unfreezes. So, basically the video feed doesn't stop, but I just completely lose control over the mouse and keyboard. I'm using a logitech elite kb and a mx518 mouse, with the latest drivers (tried it with older ones also). Also, sometimes when this is going on, and I'm pressing keys on the keyboard, I'll get this beeping sound out of the case, sounding like those error beeps you get when you hold down a key for too long in POST or whatever. This made me believe (completely wild guess) that maybe my system is getting overloaded by input data from the keyboard and mouse, but I don't see how that would be possible. :confused: My system is overclocked to 250 fsb, and the x1900xt is at stock. The temps are stable, so I'm running out of options to try. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks in advance :cat:
  11. could use these settings as well... just bought my self a pair of these sticks. The model is the black gskill extreme
  12. Follow-up to this, sorry. Where in BIOS can i change the slots to go 8x8x instead of 16x2x? Thanks.
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