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About Brando

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  1. I've been using 5.10s with Audio & IDE drivers omitted ever since first setting up the rig, and it boots PDQ. B.
  2. For 'distilled' read de-ionised (with a 'z' if necessary ) Any supermarket should stock it - it's meant for use in steam irons. Boiled tap-water is no good. Also, I suggest using Zerex (at 1 part in 20) as your water additive. B.
  3. Although I'm still not overclocking, the rig in my sig is running low temps and steady and I can guess that there's room for pushing it. The boost to my x850xt pe has been astounding - I was also using it with an nF2 board and an unlocked 2800+Barton @ 2.2Ghz - but now I see what all the fuss was about. With the recent shift to AM2 a fall occurred in 939-pin CPU prices and I took advantage of it. There are plenty of good deals about for dual cores too. Have fun, Brando
  4. I'm sorry to say I dunno. I'm one-armed, so I don't mess with multi-meters The inductors are the 3 donut-shaped things, yes. As stated, the left lead is hidden away between the donuts and that row of capacitors. Using a bright light and maybe a magnifying glass will show you the trace to use. Maybe try a PM to Rebelshaven? he's listed under Members, use the search members facility. Hope that helps brando
  5. Brando

    Boot devices

    Hi the joker in the deck may well be your Q-tec PSU. They are on the list of NOT RECOMMENDED power supplies for a very good reason - they are rubbish! Whether you RMA your board or not - you'd be well advised to dump the Q-tec for something on the recommended list before you install a new board. Trust me - I have the T-shirt! Like many other people. use the search function here - you'll find the lists. brando
  6. :confused: It's in the thread you linked to..... Thanks to RebelsHaven..
  7. Brando

    Removing old TIM

    One good reason not to use nail-varnish remover is because it frequently contains an oil, e.g. lanolin, that is included to alleviate the effect of acetone on the nails and surrounding skin. While the acetone will remove varnish or TIM effectively, the last wipes over will leave this oil film behind. It's absorbed by skin & nails, but not by heatsinks, so you will need an alcohol wipe anyway. Just my 2 Brando
  8. I agree with wevsspot about the repair procedure - I used it recently after a stoned mistake while using CrapCleaner (never again) and I deleted winlogon.exe (yes, I am a xxxxhead sometimes!) The procedure works very well. I read somewhere that using DC3 to remove nVidia chipset drivers is a no-no. Something to do with a registry deletion that prevents a successful reboot. Fine for gfx drivers, but not for the others. I'm glad you have a way around, sorry that my idea didn't help. I really recommend grabbing the True Image app from Acronis. It's worth every penny, and works well (so long as you don't delete winlogon :eek:
  9. Crikey, I'm very sorry about this. I've never experienced the problem you're describing:confused: Did you reboot between the uninstall and the reinstall of the 5.10s?
  10. You could try not using the nVidia IDE drivers. I suggest you uninstall the nV chipset drivers in Add/ Remove, and then reload them. The 5.10 drivers work best, but do not load the SW IDE drivers. There is an options window during the install. On rebooting, Windows will install its own drivers - Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller - and you may see more than one instance in your dxdiag readout, which is normal. The nV SW IDE drivers have always been less than satisfactory. Hope that helps Brando
  11. Possibly the chips on the 256 are the same as on one of the 512s but not the other? Different batches of chips may be causing the problem, which is the reason to buy matched pairs of RAM. That is, not just for dual channel but also to ensure that timings are the same. Brando
  12. +2 for Acronis True Image. I'm sure Ghost works well too - it's just that I swore never to bring another Symantec product within half a mile of my HDs!
  13. Brando

    Power On Problems

    I agree with Adreno about trying a bios like 7/11. I've used that since the go-get with no problems I'm getting excellent results from the Hiper 580. Not up to full SLi and a hefty overclock so they say, but definitely enough for my purposes. Brando
  14. Absolutely right there Winters Fury!! Apart from the cost and the need for rigorous preparation, the reassembly could be very difficult as far as clearances are concerned. Doors only - well that might work - but case and doors sounds unlikely to work at all. Even screw holes and threaded holes get coated with chrome so, along with increased panel thickness causing misalignment - fitting everything back is fraught with hassle. A tad OT - but the failure of Vantec's Stingray WC kit is down to this problem of extra thickness. The metal securing-frame screwed to the block by countersunk screws is a reasonable, functionable system - if some fool hadn't decided that they should be chromed after they had been manufactured and had the countersink recesses drilled in them. The extra coating of metal meant that the screws didn't sit flush to the frame - and therefore prevented the WC block from contacting the GPU face - result the end of the scale heat reading of 155 that caused one reviwer to remove the g-card from the loop and blame weak push-pin springs for the problem.:confused: Don't forget to price in the Raybans!:cool:
  15. :confused: You have a grudge? After years of Abit mobos I grabbed this one so as to hold on to my AGP card rather than start over with PCI-e. I've been pleasantly surprised by everything except the chipset fan - but who keeps an original chipset fan anyhow? Setup-wise it's a bit quirkier than the NF7-S(2.0) I used before - but not impossibly so.