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About eL0w

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  1. Actually, AMD has been packaging some of their CPUs with really nice HSFs. So I wouldn't necessarily say you can't OC w/ one.
  2. The router shouldn't be a factor in this setup. It works perfectly fine with every other computer I have hooked up to it. If for some reason that was the problem, I do not have the option of running the DSL modem directly to my machine (excluding testing purposes.) I need the other computers in my home office networked. It is also on it's own IRQ. The only other PCI card I have installed right now is a TV tuner (which is disabled at the moment until ATI supports 64-bit 100%.) I guess it's time to switch to the Nvidia controller. Either that or deal with it I suppose. A side note: I've been experiencing random 1 second disconnects ever since I updated the drivers. I will be rolling back to the old ones for now.
  3. The screenshot I posted earlier is exactly what gets displayed. I highly doubt it is the IP "sticking" considering the TCP/IP settings get cleared once the adapter is disabled. As for how I connect, I have your typical broadband modem -> router -> PC setup. I've already tried both...same exact issues. :mad:
  4. Yea, I was only doing what was suggested. I had a feeling I'd end up with the same results. As for needing a new driver, I don't understand how it works perfectly until I disable/enable it. After I do that and reboot, everything is fine.
  5. His router will act as the gateway. As mentioned in that very quote, the Linksys has 4 built in 10/100 FD ports, which eliminates the need for a switch (unless you planned on adding more than 4 machines to the network.) You have the ability to forward ports and what-not within the router, among various other settings. Linksys WRT54G - the user guide is on the right. Also, he said he didn't care about a gigabit connection, so he would be wasting his money if he purchased hardware he didn't need.
  6. He would be wasting his hard earned money if he went that route. Assuming that he has the typical WRT54G model router and doesn't care about a gigabit connection, he could setup a network just like RGone described. It already has 4 10/100 full duplex ports. If he does care about a gigabit connection, I'd still suggest going the crossover route. Less money, less time setting things up and his sister won't have access.
  7. As ExRoadie already stated, there isn't a place on the mobo to put it. You can easily unclip it from the side of the case if you tinker with it for a few seconds. You can do the same for the speaker cable that's under the hdd bay as well. I also had to remove the top panel USB cluster and top mount fan in order to get my PSU in. I was able to put the USB cluster back where it belongs but I wish I could say the same about the fan. Oh well. As for hiding wires, I'd suggest taking the other side of your case off (the side w/o a window) and routing as many wires behind that as you can. Yea, yea, yea...I'm using the stock cpu heatsink. From what I've read, that thing actually performs just as well as several well made aftermarket heatsinks. Plus I have no need to waste the money on another one until I OC it.
  8. You will need a crossover cable for the connection between your two computers. You will also need to share the hard drives on one computer and map them on the other. I'm sure you know how to do this but I thought I'd throw it out there. As for it being a gigabit connection between the two computers, as long as both adapters support a gigabit connection, yes.
  9. SuperPi -> http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/ Make sure you have two copies (each in their own directory.) Use the task manager to set the affinity for each. SuperPi doesn't put as much stress on your system as Prime95 does but it is another stability test. You can only run it for a max of 30-35mins (the 32M test.) I usually run memtest first. If it passes that, I move onto SuperPi. If it passes that, Prime95 is next.
  10. My scores... 3DMark05: 10425 3DMark06: 5865 -SM2.0 Score: 2566 -HDR/SM3.0 Score: 2462 -CPU Score: 1701 Judging by the gfx card you are using, those don't look too far off. Do you happen to have the rest of the scores I listed for 3DMark06?
  11. My temps (without using calibration): Idle: Load: Room temp = 22c I'm assuming those are about right. *shrugs*
  12. Have you tried disabling the net adapter then enabling it to produce the same results? This sounds very similar to a problem w/ the Marvell adapter I posted.
  13. I think I read somewhere on here that somebody on here is working on a beta BIOS that will allow you to go down to 15c instead of 25c.
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