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About Nautilian

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  1. There is insulation, I will actually show you some close up pics. Also remember that the Asetek kit has both heaters in the clambshell as well as on the back of the mobo running at 100% (40-50C - from what I can feel, could even be hotter). There is also A LOT of thermal grease between the pins of the CPU and the socket. I guess a good think about being in Johannesburg, South Africa is that we do not have some if not any humidity. I have already done condensation checks and all is 100%. Just a heads up, the Promethia Mach II & ChilliKit has a different design to the mounting to the Asetek kit, maybe that is why it looks a bit different! Naut
  2. Hey guys, I will put up some more pics. I am busy changing the g-card cooling and finally finishing up the rest of the cabling. I got hold of a Plextor PX-716AL and a few other nice features. I will put more pics up. Under the XEII I have been able to boot at 3.750 but the temps go above 0C so I do not want to chance going any heigher. I will also put a list of mods that I did as well as 3dmard scores and superPI. I just need about 2 more days. Naut
  3. I think it is also more important that your CFM going in is > than your CFM going out. It all revolves around pressure. If you have more CFM going out, you will have a lower pressure on the inside of your case, hence nature tries to balance this, and begins to suck in air through any hole in the case which you guessed it, will bring all the dust in and have negative performance on your temps. When you have more CFM going in, it is the exact opposite effect and you also land up pushing a lot of the hot air out, however you can't have too much since you will start to choke the airflow in your case which is needed to carry the standing air off your components. Naut
  4. It is a Asetek Vapochill XEII. OC results should be in this week Naut
  5. So I have finally booted her up. I seriously think I have a one in a million chip, since I am not cold bugged at all running a 1:1 ratio. I will put up more details as I start to focus on OC. I still have a bit of cable work to finish up, but I have done quite a bit of modding to it. Thanks to soundx86 for the AWESOME LCD and help, and to MasterG for all the vapochill tips and advice. Also thanks to everbody else that gave me advice here on DFi-Street. Hopefully when I have finished hooking up the lighting and other stuff, I will start posting more, if you guys are interested. Currently I am running at 3.25Ghz (1.476V) on my FX60, but I have taken it to 3.5Ghz stable on prime95 for 8hrs with only 1.536V :drool:. Any and all oppinions would be GREAT! Naut *mods and admins I will update my sig soon so please don't eat me alive*
  6. Hey there guys, I would just like to get some clarification on the 4 pin molex plug on the motherboard next to the PCI-X. To the best of my knowledge that connector is only needed when running in SLi mode. Am I right in saying this or will this have any changing result on system performance when overclocking in terms of stability? Thanks a mil in advance! Naut
  7. Hi there guys, I am planning on going from a 4800+ to the FX60, however from what I have read in other posts made, I still cannot make up my mind on which bios to put onto my Expert. Any help would be great! I do plan on overclocking and the full name detection of the FX60 is not necessary for now. Thanks a mil in advance Naut.
  8. Best thing to do IMHO is have PCB serial pin outputs from the LCD that enables you to have modular kits sold seperate, so the buyer can select what he wants to addon, therefore the programming just needs to be adaptive. Naut
  9. I would definetly be interested in something new and fresh, show us what you come up with. Naut
  10. I bought an LCD from SoundX98, I can say that all his stuff is 100% perfect quality! HUGE BUMPAGE to him! Naut
  11. Sounds like a wicked idea! Look forward to the pics.
  12. Performance PCs have Sumbeam cathodes, I think they are by far the best quality one can get at a decent price. Naut
  13. They indicated when the coverter is giving power to the CCFL's
  14. I have had the same problem with the EXACT same converters. 6 months and then GONE. I have been using these (not trying to advertise, please delete it if I am out of line) and they are 10x better build, so far 7 months and not one hicup, I also find with these that regardless of having 1 or 2 CCFL's attached, they run the same brightness. With the cheap butt ones, as soon as you inserted 2 they went dimmer! Hope that helps Naut
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