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About frenchie

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  1. The capacitor is the green thing that looks like a chicklet next to my fingers. It has two leads that come off of it. Those get plugged into the female power switch connector (one lead in each hole of the connector), which is part of the case. The extension cable has one end that is female and one end that is male. The female end is exactly the same as power switch lead from the case. The male end has two pins coming out of it. Those pins also get connected to the female power switch connector (Capacitor leads are very thin. So, you can plug the leads and the pins from the extension cord into the same hole of female power switch connector). The remaining female end of the extension cable is what gets plugged into the MB. There are no molex connectors in the photo. The thing connecting the two cables is the female end of the ps lead, coming from the case, and the male end of the extension, going to the MB. The capacitor is in between them, in parallel with the switch circuit.
  2. There's actually a photo in this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...6&postcount=313
  3. I'm not grousing about the board or DFI. I am totally satisfied with the cap work around on both of my boards. I am grousing about the support on this board. Some people are much more interested in DFI's reputation than they are in providing support to their customers.
  4. The problem is that the ATX spec recommends 2A on the +5VSB and the expert draws much more than this. Also, there is no such thing as "out of spec for the expert". Spec stands for specification. As far as I know, DFI hasn't made their "new proprietary spec" public. That would make it pretty difficult for PSU manufacturers to adhere to it. For the meantime, let's just stick with the ATX spec. The PCP&C does not fail to boot because of too much draw on the 12V rail. I've measured it with a DMM. It doesn't move at all. It is always almost exactly 12.0V. Perhaps I should go buy a PSU more suited to the expert... like a sintek?
  5. If you really believe this, you have no business offering tech support to anyone. Go back to being a roady.
  6. That's good to know. Then the cap mod probably fixed the switch bounce problem with that switch too.
  7. Actually, you are totally misinformed. The startup +5VSB of the expert is out of spec with the ATX 2.2 specification. The facts don't lie! Facts will set you free! If you don't believe me, read the spec yourself: http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5Catx2_2.pdf Bottom of page 21: In his enlightening first post of the thread, Ex roadie says the following: The whole reason for having a spec like ATX is so that the components work together. Clearly, since it is the MB that deviates from the spec, the fault here is with the MB. It is totally illogical to claim that since some power supplies work with an out of spec MB, the problem cannot be with the MB. Sometimes a component in a system will fail but the system will still work. Does that mean that the component didn't fail? No, of course not. Where is your common sense? Once again, the facts don't lie!
  8. I have the cold boot problem with the "EZ touch switch" on the MB. I am pretty sure that no one has addressed how to fix that problem on this site. Please post a link if you can find one.
  9. Mine stalls too when I try to use the power on button on the board.
  10. What if you have the same problem with multiple power supplies and two different expert boards? Then you switch to an ASUS A8N and you no longer have the problem with any of the power supplies? Is it still not the motherboard then? I've come to believe that you are a cult member whose only purpose is to confuse the poor users who come to this forum expecting support for their MB problems. If you are done with this topic, that is fine. Let the users discuss the problem and stop posting your uninformed nonsense over and over. It only confuses people looking for answers that actually address their problems.
  11. I think Ex-roadie has made it clear that this is a PSU problem and that the cap mod might help your PSU if it is having trouble with multiple power supplies. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...9&postcount=303 Do they pay this guy to do this or does he just spew DFI propaganda for the hell of it? It seriously reminds me of Bagdad Bob. After 24 pages of this thread, one thing is clear: Ex-roadie has nothing to offer the many users suffering from the cold boot problem. Try the cap mod... it is easy and might solve your problem.
  12. The capacitor has to be 0.22uf... not 22uf. Other than that, the wiring diagram is correct.
  13. Does cycling the PSU power (the switch on the PSU) for a few seconds allow you to boot normally? If so, you may have the cold boot problem. Here is how I added the capacitor to my comp: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...6&postcount=313 It was a 0.22uf metal film capacitor from radio shack. I didn't have to solder anything because I just plugged the cap leads into the headerplug along with the extension. Make sure you get the value right and make sure you don't buy an electrolytic capacitor (they are usually can shaped, have polarity and have very high capacitiance values).
  14. No. That probably won't fix it. The value is totally off (really, really off) and it is probably electrolytic, which have to be oriented correctly or they can start leaking or even explode. You need a 0.22uf capacitor (non-electrolytic - polyester film or metal film you can probably find at radio shack or mouser.com). The ones from radio shack look just like the green one posted in the pic on this thread. They do not look like cylinders... those are electrolytic capacitors, which you should avoid.
  15. I don't understand why that would be a problem worth RMAing for. How often are you planning on doing a "Hard Shutdown"? The only real reason to do it is if you crash in which case it doesn't seem like too much trouble to cycle the PSU. I doubt very much that the RMA fix addresses your problem anyway as the problematic "cold boot issue" occurs after a proper shutdown procedure (not after suddenly turning off the power - which is bad). You don't need to splice or open up your PSU in order to test it with a DMM. You can plug the DMM into the molex connectors. I don't understand your question about a PC switch. If your PSU is booting though and you have windows installed, why do you think there is a problem with the PSU? You have totally confused me. It sounds like your PSU is probably fine though.
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