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Jarman

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Everything posted by Jarman

  1. Not sure wil my knowledge of ram is limited to DDR1 being an A64 boy since the 754 3000+ that i bought many years ago now (and is still being put to good use in a media centre i might add!) http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct....rodid=MY-082-OC They seem to be an awesome offer for 8500 modules (if u live in the UK that is). Think they use the Micron chips the corsair rep recommended too, which cant be bad. Maybe CPDMF will be kind enough to provide us with some input :S
  2. well again, the motherboard was very cheap. $60 cheaper than a P965 based board. A friend of mine also has the same board and has managed 3.5GHz from his E6600 on air with it, so i didnt really question the board's credentials. Maybe i will lose 200MHz compared to a 680i based board?? not sure...but i dont think that justifies the EXTRA $180 one of those costs. And the ram kit i went with will be "equivelant" to the ram kit you are using in your #1 machine. This machine will just be a very cheap machine to dip my feet into intel chips, as ive never really had 1 since the glorious celeron 300 which i managed to get to 500 MHz without any problems.
  3. The point of the question was to ascertain if i will gain any from spending £150 on a 8500 kit instead of the superbly priced £60 low latency 6400 kit. That ram kit gets nothing but good reviews even when it was priced at treble what it costs now. I mean if i have to spend high money on RAM, i will. The G.Skill HZ in my pc now cost me £250 which is like $500. But i NEEDED that ram to get the most out of my opteron 165. If i could have gotten away with spending £100 on a ram kit without taking a massive performance hit, i would have done.
  4. no dont know, does it make a big difference? i know whats in my DDR1 kits....TCCD, BH-5 etc. Cant remember whats in my G.Skill HZ, samsung urrm... i see people hitting 1000MHz with this Geil kit at "reasonable" latencies. The OCZ kit you mentioned using the micron chips is 2x the price. my first venture into OC of a conroe so didnt wanna waste too much money. Got a RD600 DFI board for £80, ram for £60 and the new dirt cheap conroe (1.6GHz) for £50, that will tide me over til prices on quad cores are slashed on July 22. Coupled with my new watercooling kit of a D-Tek fusion CPU block, 2x black ice stealth rads and Dual LAING DDC ultra pumps im just gonna OC that chip for every last drop of performance it will give
  5. Thanks for the advice went for this memory in the end: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct....rodid=MY-058-GL very cheap and should have plenty of potential
  6. Hi, first venture into overclocking a C2D. Could anyone give me a quick difinitive answer on whether its better to have DDR 6400 with tight timings if there is any advantage to 8500 or so with looser timings?? Thanks James
  7. running a TDX on my opteron 165 @ 2.97 GHz, goes no higher than 48 both cores fully loaded, thats on a low flow pump too, which is less than ideal for a TDX style block
  8. Hi, im using the latest BIOS from DFI for this board. Only thing is i cant seem to find the 2.5x LDT multiplier which i am in great need of. Ive read on a few sites that 1.5x and 2.5x LDT multipliers are available, but i cant find them :/ Any1 help? Have i missed something?
  9. Havent read the entire thread but here's my 2 cents: A surface wants to be flat as possible to conduct heat, ok, agreed. So from that sentence we can assume a greater surface area contact increases heat transfer yes? Ok, so, a "scratched" base has more surface area than a "mirror finish" one, so i wouldnt worry about getting a mirror finish, just a flat sink - let AS5 do the rest. A new material for heatpipes and waterblocks based on this sort of principle is going to be released soon.
  10. could try the concentrated biocide idea http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html only $2.50. Just dont drink the stuff
  11. you use a very low amount of inhibiter then. So you obviously have all the same metals in the loop. Id still use more personally, i have Cu blocks and an Al rad so 15% does me nicely. Also the barbs are stainless steel so its nice to have a little something in there to ensure no galvanic corrosion.
  12. http://hardware.gamershell.com/articles/wa...block_cleaning/ If you set up the water loop correctly you will hardly ever need to clean the block. Once every couple of years maybe.
  13. There should be no "settling" as FluidXP contains an inhibiter that should stop anything from growing (at least in the short term). The problems you will get though are that if you are using a UV light, this will promote growth of organics and you will have to maintain your system as a result. If you are using UV light and dye i would suggest using a concentrated biocide in the mix which is available from w/c shops. The best thing you can use imo (which is what i use) is a de-ionised water (battery water), ethylene glycol mix (active ingredient in anti freeze, very good inhibiter). I use mobil anti freeze as its a premium A/F and i can use less in the mix which keeps the heat transfer coeffiecient up (~15%.) Its also good to try and keep all metals in the loop the same to avoid setting up a potential difference (battery in effect). If using Al and Cu in a loop use 20% inhibiter Another thing to do is use non-clear tube ie. a tube where you cannot pysically see the liquid, this will keep organic growth to a minimum. Is the red build up on the tubes or has the fluid itself turned red?
  14. Nothing from AMD compares well to the Duos atm, but i guarantee your board wont run one of those
  15. i cant see why your motherboard wouldnt take an opty 165 :S
  16. FX57 isnt a chip i would personally go for. Dont u think a better choice would have been to buy a dual core opty 165 and some better ram in a dual channel kit...the 4 sticks will cause probs for a start, and then there's the value bit :/ Probably would have been cheaper for an opty 165 and mushkin redline 4000s or equiv and ud have a much quicker system. CPU isnt 100% idle in bios
  17. agreed Phoetus, was gonna post something earlier but thought i was wasting my breath. I could have given him an answer as easily as called him an E-thug, but why would i want to?
  18. Budd they are the best keyboards EVER made. My mates all laugh at me, but their saitek keyboards etc all the letters are worn within six months and they usually give up after 2-3 years....mines like 20 years old? not a key that doesnt feel brand new. The letters are lasered in, even the "dimples" (best word i can think to describe them) are there on EVERY key, if you didnt know u would swear the board came off the shelf yesterday. The board will never be beaten!
  19. check out this link for tiger direct http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...2227092&CatId=0 Sempron 3000+ chips at $10 until the 31st!
  20. He was trying to help E-Thug, if the answer is so simple u should know it
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