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Everything posted by expresso

  1. ok so if i run all those tests which i have on the computer and it dosnt crash - would that mean its not the video card causing my problems ? i want to try to rule out the video card -- the problems i am having -- would you say its not the video card
  2. i just got off the phone with AMD - about my processor in case i have to RMA it back since its retail - i have 3 years - and i kept the heatsink but changed fans - they were going thur the RMA process but i stopped them because i want to see if the new PSU fixes the problem - but i was told to try to boot up with the CPU out of the socket to see if the MB detects it or not -- if the MB detects the cpu and its out of the socket - then its the MB thats bad - on the plus side - i believe i can get a replacement on my MB from newegg if its the board - do you know how long the warranty is for retail DFI boards ? AMD also said to try updating bios - after checking the MB with CPU out of the socket - but i also noticed that my battery volts were at 3.07 most of the times - sometimes at 3.08 or 3.09 -- so i though that was strange - i have a new battery now for it -- and one time i noticed the feg. of the cpu to be at 2.1 rather than 2.2 -- i noticed it with the power monitor from amd software - but i rebooted and then was back to 2.2 -- just once i seen that -- i told AMD this and was told to check it in sys. properties which i didnt so cant be sure if that was correct or not -- how can i check if the video card is good or bad ? is there a program i run ? its a year old also - xfx 6800xt 256ram - i cant remember if i had it OC'ed or stock - if its OC'ed -- it was at 400/1000 or 1.16 i used the program to pick the best OC for it - is there any way to check the video card ?
  3. hi - thanks for the info - but its still confusing about the rails anyway - if this psu dosnt work out for me - the next one would be the pc power one - one rail - high amps thats it - why bother with dual or quad rails -- so now 4 leds mean its the cpu !!! - that sucks - thing that bothers me is - it never had a issue before - it all started when i went to connect 2 fans i had on the board to the psu instead and then it all went downhill from there -- even after i put it back the way it was - sometimes it gets stuck with one led on - but for the most it was 4 leds -- how can i check that my CPU is good ? i want to reduce the load but cant figure it out - since i had more fans connected before in my previous case and it worked fine - i reduced a few fans when i went to the TT amor case but added WC setup - and its been working fine since i switched cases about 3 months ago it does seem like a power issue - but i really done know for sure till i get the new one in - can you tell me with everything i have in my Sig -- shouldnt my psu - hiper 580 Watt be enough power to run everything ? i am not running SLI --
  4. i have a 120mm rear fan blowing in over the board since i went to WC -- i have a 92mm on top of case blowing out and one 92mm fan in back blowing out with my HD cage in front of it - you think it would help if i make the top fan blow in the case instead - ? i will try that when i get the new psu back and hope it works - i hope its not the board itself - since it would be a pain to remove everything -- what does 4 leds mean if they stay on and wont boot ? everything was fine till i decided to connect two of the fans direct to the psu and take them off the board - i though that would be better - but when it was connected - nothing at all would boot or start up - so i though maybe its too much load on the psu or on one rail - i really dont know - so i rewired it separted how much is on one line from the Psu -- and it helped but having a hard time booting after that - - with the 4 leds on the board - cmos checksum error - had to reset cmos many times just to get it to boot once - but since then - it was unstable and locks up - black screen - fans stay on and ligths but cant do anything - i guess it crashes and cant reboot - so i would have to power down all the way - shut off psu - reset cmos - wait -- and try again a few times before i can get it going -- so i sent back psu - i notice you have a hiper also - did you have any problems with your psu ? for the most part - when this happens - 4 leds stay lit on the board -- but sometimes - i seen one on - but mostly all 4 - yellow lights on the board are on - right now i have to just wait for psu - hope its that - but if it is the psu - i would still have the same one which means it can happen again unless i just had a bad one and slowly lost some punch - in the future - i will stay away from dual rails quad rails etc. -- i will get at least 750w with one rail - high amps at least 60A -- and no modual - i dont know how would i know what rail i am using from the psu connectors ? since it has two 12v rails - i would like to separate the connections between the 2 rails so i dont load too much on one rail - but how do i know ?
  5. it only goes that high if i am on full load at my max OC which is actually 2.75 - i said 2.7 before if i leave it on 2.7 and run it normally - its under 50c -- maybe 46c at full load with 2.7 its around 50c - 52c i dont know what i can do to keep it lower - i have a spot fan in that area now and it dropped it down at least 8c from what it was before -- at full load before - it went up past 65c - so it is much better now - i usually run it 2.7 since its a bit under my max OC - and with the spot fan at 2.7 -- its around 46c - 49c - what else can i do to make it cooler - thanks
  6. the temps are pretty good now since i added a spot fan to the board and a fan on the HR-05 SLI -- which if i have to do it over - i wont reinstall that chip tower cooler -- it dosnt do much with out a fan on it - at 2.7 - and load - the cpu is 40c - the pwm is between 50c and 57c -- the chip stays at around 40c also maybe 42c with a 80mm fan on the cooler - with out the fan on that cooler - it ran hot for me -- the chip with no fan and just the HR-05 was around 46c at idle but it didnt go too much higher than 53c at load and it dosnt sit flush all the way on the chip - it moves a little and i cant fix it once its clipped in - thats it plus with the weight of the tower cooler sideways dosnt help either - and it takes up alot of room if you have to work around the Cmos area - if i have to RMA my board - i will not put it back on - i would use the Evercool copper cooler i think - i read that it was so great and dropped the temps so much - maybe others had better luck with it - i RMA the psu so i have to wait till i get it back and install to see if that was my problem - if not - i will RMA the board to DFI - if anyone has anyother ideas as to what it maybe -?? thanks
  7. i ran memtest for 2 hours and fine - i reinstalled windows and ran Diag. for the HD and fixed a few sectors but now fine - so i ruled those out - its the psu - video card or board what is left --
  8. hi - it happened again yesterday - just stopped - black screen - 4 leds on board - fans running and lights but nothing else - i powered down - reset for 20 mins - then got it going again - and used it all night and even ran prime for a hour at my max OC 2.750 - while burning a DVD and everything was fine - i didnt use AS5 on the chip i used the other one - Cerqimux something like that - with HR-05 SLI and put a 80mm fan on it - that keeps it cool i have a spot fan for the board which helps - but at full load at my max OC - it gets to about 58C -- but at 2.7 full - its stills around 51C 52c -- so i really dont know what the problem is - or problems now - i sent the psu back today - i see how it runs when i get a new one back - is there any programs that i can run to test my video card ? and any to test the Board i belieave i have the orginal chip if i need it - but i want to see if the psu fixes the problem -- any other advice would be great -- thanks - and i let you know how and if the new psu works - thanks
  9. thanks - if i find the orginal fan and put it back on the board - would that be ok if the new psu dosnt fix the problem - i may have it - just have to look around - its very weird because everything was working fine till i wanted to add a spot fan - but before i added that - i wanted to run two fans i had on the board right the psu and thats when it started - i figured i had too much on one rail how would i know which 12v rail i am using - i havnt a clue - so i tried to break them up - not too many fans on one line - and then it worked - but since then - i couldnt get it to stay on - i though maybe the battery- which i was going to change tomorrow - but i called to rma the psu so i change it when i get the new one back just to be sure - do you think its a corrupt bios now ? how long is the warranty for the ultra Board ? in march 13 2006 - its a year i have it - i believed this psu was ok since i am not running SLI it was recommended higher on the list when i checked i think last year - now i see its not on the high part of the list - i am stuck with it now - hopefully the new one works better - do you think from what i have in my system - this psu is strong enough to run everything ? the fans i have draw about 0.48A each - maybe 3 watts or 4 - they are TT smart case fans with control - D5 pump - cd/dvd combo - Dvd drive - two hard drives - one external firewire drive - spot fan and another fan on the HR-05 Sli which didnt cool really good for me untill i added a 80mm fan and then it dropped down almost 10c - total case fans are 5 TT ones - 3 120mm 2 92mm -- one 80mm inside for the chip and one spot fan which works good for the board - dropped it down about 8c easily - before this case - i had a different case with about 10 fans before i went to WC and i didnt have a problem till now its driving me crazy -
  10. hi - i been having a strange problem lately and it started when i tried to add a few fans i had on my MB to my psu - maybe i had too much on one rail - dont know - it wouldnt boot and no power it seemed - so i rewired it different and kept the fans on the MB header back to the way it was - but still have this booting problem - and sometimes just shuts down - but the fans are running and lights etc. but black screen and power light and HD light on with 4 red leds on the board steady on - no beeps - i have to shut it down - turn off psu - clear cmos - sometimes i have to reset it many times - then i get the checksum error - sometimes i dont - now i have a RMA on the psu - going back tomorrow - but i am not sure if the board is the problem or both board and psu - i was giving a RMA form from DFI today - but now i am worried because i changed the chipset fan from the orignal to the HR-05 SLI -- i dont know if i even have the origanl DFI chip fan -- would this matter if i send the board back to DFI without the chip fan ? should i fill out the form and fax it to them and see if its under Warranty ? it will be a year in march 2007 -- i cant figure out whats wrong with my system - i reinstalled windows because it got corrupted - i checked HD with diag. tools and it fixed a few things - i though it was fixed - then it happened again - froze and wont reboot -- i was using nero at the time - but the day before i used it all day at 2.7 OC and nero most of the day and nothing happened - i ran memtest for 2 hours just to be sure - was good - i ran a few 2Dmark 03 and 05 to check the video card - it ran fine - i even ran prime for a hour at 2.7 just to do a fast check - temps are good now with a fan i put on the chipset HR-05 Sli - and i got a spot fan for the board - my question is - would DFI take the board back under RMA with out the chipset fan if i cant find it ? and if anyone has any ideas to my problems - or should i wait to send the board till i get the new psu even if DFI would take the board back with out the chipset fan in place thanks - let me know something soon --
  11. i have a Hiper 580 Type R - been using it a year now - but not to sure how much it can handle - i may be having a PSU problem right now - dosnt seem to have enough to boot anymore - i havnt had problems with it till now - but it may not be the PSU - i am leaning that way though - i think my next PSU will be the PC power and cooling with one strong 12volt rail high amps -- i think this dual rail , 3 rails and 4 rails are not as good - how do you even know which rail you are using to connect things to ? Hiper 580 may be ok for normal lower end stuff - i think i am pushing the limits and it dosnt seem to hold it -
  12. My system wont boot up and cant figure it out - if its the PSU or MB - i am not sure if i am running too much power for the PSU - how can i figure that out ? i had 2 TT smart case fans on the fan header - i wanted to connect them to the PSU directly and add a spot fan connected to the Fan header for the chip on the board - it was having a hard time booting or posting - i finally got it to boot once and i changed the fan speed for the Spot fan with Smart to run faster - then i rebooted and it didnt boot anymore - i tried everything - i have the fan off the board - and no fan headers on the board connected now - just pump - one HD - and all power connectors on the board - but it wont boot or even post - one thing - some WC fluid did leak on the board - but its fluid xp and shouldnt damage it right ? - i dried it up - it wasnt a lot - but around cpu block - the yellow lights comes on the board - sometimes the yellow light near the memory dosnt come on but then it did - there are no beeps or anything - seems like its the PSU - but not sure if i have very little connected to it now and still wont post - the Fans i have use 0.12 - 0.48 amp each -- and i have 5 connected - plus the WC pump , two HD - CD rom and DVD rom drive and one UV Light - -- shouldnt 580W and combined 12volt rail at 38A be enough ? i dont know if its the PSU or the MB now - and dont know how to rule either one out - Also i remember seeing a chechsum error when it posted and i went to the bios and reset it to defaults -- how can i know how many amps i got on each Rail and how can i connect all my fans , pump etc. to each rail of the PSU - to even out the load if thats the problem - for now i have it clearing the Cmos for the night and try it tomorrow - or else i send the PSU back - but i am not sure the PSU is the problem 100% -- seems like its not getting enough power i called FrozenCpu where i got the PSU and told them and they said sent it back and they send a new one -- but i hope the new one works with everything i have - its been working fine for a year - just happen today when i wanted to add the spot fan and take 2 fans off the MB header and put it right the PSU - -- any ideas what i can try to rule out the MB ?
  13. hi - i decided to add a spot fan to my system and connect the two rear fans to run off the PSU instead of the board - and after its all connected - the system dosnt boot anymore ? dosnt power up - it starts and shuts down right away - one time i got into windows and i changed the setting for the spot fan which was connected to the chip fan header on the MB - and then after that - it didnt power up anymore - it was having problems before i made that change in the chip speed fan - but now nothing - the MB has the yellow leds - i am starting to think its the PSU - i had it a year - i am leaving it to clear the cmos overnight and try again tomorrow - i have only one drive connected - and 2 fans for the Rad and pump for the WC - and it still didnt boot - any ideas what happened - it was working fine before - but a few times it bsod'ed on me - also i got a checksum error the only time i though it was about to boot - i hit delete and set the defualts - then it couldnt power up again - does anyone think that my psu is not enough power for what i am running in my Sig ? or maybe just a bad unit ? the fans i am running are TT smart case fans - 3 120mm and two 92mm - and i was adding a spot fan to the board chip fan header -- anything i did wrong or is it just too much power for the PSU or a bad PSU ? thanks - i have it clearing the Cmos now -
  14. i been using the vista ultimate 64 bit -- for a few months - its not that great - things dont work - drivers are not there- my Sata drives dont run in Sata - but in ATA only - i updated the drivers but nothing - its a nice look - smoother etc. - but i couldnt get my Phone tools working good - i restored back to xp and it runs much better actually - i am staying with Xp and vista images also - i may go back and forth for a while and keep them both updated -plus i had 30 days on the vista -- but - if you restore back before the 30 days - it starts over again with 30 new days xp pro for now -
  15. i would say get the Klipsch - or at least check them out first before buying anything -- they are great -- i have the simple version - 2.1 promedia - but if you have the room and can get the 5.1 - that be great the best stuff -
  16. thanks - i keep that in mind for when i replace the tubing i dont think just draining the fluid would work - because i think the tubbing also wont be as clear if i just drain it - i replace the tubing also when the time comes to do that and just use water and zerex like you said - but the uv dye would be ok to use with the water and zerex ? also should i add a few drops of that other stuff biocide ? that i was given a link to on this post with the water , zerex and uv dye ? thanks
  17. thanks for all the input - most likely its the dye i added to the fluid xp - stupid move - but now its done - my loop is all Red -- i have another guestion - if leaving it the way it is now - would that damage anything - the parts etc. - ? at this point - i dont want to replace anything unless i have to - i dont mind the red color - it just dosnt glow now - when ever i have to replace it - i wont add the dye anymore - but now i did it - is it ok to leave it as is now ? thanks
  18. i was afraid of that - taking out the Rad part - what if i run the pump with nothing connected to the board and the fillport tube leaning down into something -- would that work if i need to drain it ? the way i mounted the Rad in the Front is a bit of pain to remove - i have it with velco on the bottom of the Rad to the case and Velco on top of the Rad to the Dvd rom and its very tight - to remove it - i would have to remove the Dvd rom that sits on top of the Rad with Velco - the snaps that hold the tubbing is very strong - i am sure i can reuse those unless they break if i have to remove them -- but if the problem is with the tubbing - then i have to drain it and replace the tubbing - which i think is crazy because its only 3 months max since i put this together and if it can get discolored in 3 months - it just isnt worth replacing anything -- unless theres a leak or the temps are being affected from the fluid etc. -- so i guess i am out of luck - i have to just leave it - and hope the temps are not affected -- at least i know how red looks now - if i add more dye in the loop - would that help ? and is it ok to add more dye in the loop - i added a few drops when adding the fluid for the first time only - thats it thanks
  19. this is my system -- how would i drain it with out taking everything apart
  20. thanks - so i guess that fluid isnt worth adding it now it wont make a difference -- the temps are the same they havnt changed - just the color of the loop - if its the fluid or the tubbing - i dont know - i leave it as it is -- if the time comes that i have to change it - how do i drain it all out ? is there a way to do it without taking everything apart again ? i hope not to have to do that for a least a few years - thanks
  21. thanks - i wont be cleaning any tubing if i have to take it apart - that would be stupid IMO - would be easier to just replace it - its only a few dollars - so if i had to do that - i would replace it -- but i wont be taking it apart so i guess it will stay Red the other solution that was posted - to try Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL) how would i use that - do i just pour it in the loop - from the fill port ? i am not looking to take anything apart - everything is connected very well and no leaks - the finaly reason that made me try WC was the fact that i though i wouldnt have to do anything after the setup is done -- if i knew i had to clean this and flush that - and mix all kinds of things to make it clear and keep it clean etc .. i would have gotten a fish tank if i wanted to do work -- i spent over $400 dollars - i wasnt looking for a job -- its done now - and i like how the case is clean inside and roomy -- not sure how i would do it the next time around and not sure if i will use DD either -- i havnt heard back from them about this issue - so bottom line for me is what ? is it ok to leave it as is ? thanks
  22. whow - i wish someone or DD would have told me all this before hand - i was told that i didnt have to do anything but use Fluid Xp and it could last years - up to 5 years you wouldnt have to change it etc. -- thats what DD told me -- about the different metals with the blocks - i didnt know that made any difference either - i got everything brand new from DD -- everything is in my Sig - being that the fluid is UV active - i would think anyone would use a UV light - or else why even bother with the UV actie fluid -- if i knew that the UV ligth would cause something to the fluid or build up of anything - maybe i would have changed course and used something else - i picked Fluid Xp because i was told there was nothing to do to it once you fill it - thats it - unless of course - you get a leak etc. - then you would have to fix that and do it over somehow -- this is just a few months old - i am not looking to take it apart to clean the loop ? how would i clean the loop ? i used tygone tubing being that it was said to be the best at first - i wanted to get the Red Fluid Xp and was told not to because it didnt glow as much and someone said on here that it was bad -- so i got the green since DD told me thats the best one -- and now i ended up with the Red color anyway - but it dosnt glow now -- what would happen if i added a few more drops of the Green dye i have ? when i get a chance - i will post some pics of how it is now - compared to how it was at first -- i already posted pics after i was done -- so bottom line is what for me ? is it ok to leave it as it - or will this damage my parts ? i belieave the blocks i am using are both copper - thanks for the information here -- maybe there should be a guide as to what to expect if you WC -- what should i expect now from my new DD parts and WC setup -? thanks
  23. that dosnt sound too good to me -- i cleaned out the Rad before it was installed - everything was brand new -- and i dont think i got anything inside when i filled it with a syringe thru the fillport - -- i was careful and everything was clean -- do you know of this happening to anyone before ? at this point - is this going to damage my parts ? or could it be that the green dye i added to the fluid xp could have casued a change in color somehow - maybe they react differently when combined - ? i really dont know since this is my first time - i am just guessing -- either way - is my system safe this way now - i am not looking to start over thats for sure -
  24. Hi - i put my first WC setup together almost 3 months ago and i used Fluid Xp - green with a few drops of the Green dye - it worked find - was very green and glowed great under the UV light - but now - its all red in my loop ? it started slowly about 3 weeks ago and its all red now - not green anymore and really dosnt glow either any longer - everything is red - except at the very tip of the loop that is on the way out is green for a inch or so - then all read - the loop going in the Cpu is red - the loop coming out of the Cpu is green for about a inch and then all red -- the loop going in the video is red and the loop coming out of the video is green for a inch or soo - then all red going into the Rad -- then the loop coming out of the rad is Green for a inch or so - then red going into the pump and the loop coming out of the pump is a little green for a inch and then all red -- the only loop that is green is the fill port still - thats still all green -- this is very strange -- has anyone had this issue and what caused it - ? the temps havnt been affected - all seems the same as before -- i emailed DD - Dano -- and havnt recevied a answer - since i purchased everything from DD - including the Fluid Xp which was highly recommended - i just hope what ever it is dosnt damage my parts now - any ideas ? -- i have no leaks and everything seems to be ok and working the same as the first day -- thanks
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