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Mutemedia

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About Mutemedia

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  1. Dont get me wrong, I'm not sticking up for either the Rosewill or the TT.. I'm just trying to systematically isolate the direct cause of my no post problem. And as much as I wanted it to be the Rosecrap PSU, it turns out that my POS PSU was not 'directly' causing the no boot, although its likely the 'ring leader' that created the issue back when the rig froze. I went and got an ASUS a8n32-sli deluxe board today (couldnt find Any DFI boards in stock anywhere locally...oy) and slammed all of my gear on it and its booting to windows with everything... either of the vid cards, either set of memory and both the Rosejunk and the Taiwanese Toaster (which is a 'good' psu, maybe not to DFI-S standards but then those are the standards I hold with regard as well; I was just borrowing it and said it works I wasnt saying I'd actually go buy one and brag about it. So looks like the $50 PSU laid waste to my beloved Ultra-D... here goes RMA #2 on it.. hey, will Newegg swap me the Ultra-D and cash for a LP SLI or Expert board? Or should I try to get an AM2 board and sell my mems and 4200+ for DDR2 and a new proc?? .... WWDFI-SD? lol! For Sale (or just go get it out of the dumpster): gently used Rosewill PSU.... good for practicing your hammer tosses... Thanks DFI-S for the support!
  2. btw, the Rosewill would fluctuate from 11.73 to 11.91 (according to Smartguardian) pretty often but always stay in that same range. Is that bad? Or not bad? Or not good?
  3. Well up until this happened, I too was skeptical of it but without reason as it had run the rig in my sig flawlessly, even at a 2850 mHz OC with the OCZ ddr500 sticks I was demo'ing. Never gave me blue screens, artifacts, etc even after gaming for hours str8. The downside is I am the only person I know or have seen on DFI-Street or ExtremeOC that actually has one lol!! Thats not encouraging. SO.... Even after testing with another PSU, I'm still getting the same sequence with the known working TT toughpower 750w (W0116RU). I know this isn't on the DFI-S badass PSU list but it's gotten good reviews and is back in my friends PC right now and still working. I'm going to go see if can scrounge up another mobo which should tell me whether my Ultra-D is the culprit or not. I hope not, cos I've already RMA'd it once before and I really like this board. I dont want to have to start looking for another board...
  4. Oh yeah, one strike against my workhorse Ultra-D is that prior to putting the X1900XT card in the rig, my chipset would run at 37-38 C at idle and mid-40's at load then with the ATI card it was mid-40's idle and ~50-52 C at load, maybe higher I just noticed it once and was gonna check it after I slaughtered in HL2: DM (read: got slaughtered heh) but didn't get the chance... the X1900XT is a long card though. It makes my 7800GT seem short lol. didnt know that was possible (or necessary). But it has an AC Silencer-like cooler on it... an IceQ3 or sunthin like that so I thought it was just hogging all of the evercools air. Would switching out parts like the mem (a few times) and the vid card (once) be bad for the MB? Of course, I followed SOP and tried to be static-free so no worries there.. although I forgot to hook up the power cable to the vid card when I fired it up first time then realized it and hooked it up and it didnt complain.
  5. Well I just tested my POS PSU, err, Rosewill by sticking one end of a paper clip in the #4 hole (green lead) and the other end in the #6 hole (black ground) and it fires right up so thats discouraging... I've done this a couple of times now, once a 15-20 min clear and also a ~7-8 hr clear yesterday morning and when you hold down insert and fire it up, the diag LED's will immediately cycle down to one LED and it will beep at you until you let go of Ins, the monitor will flicker and thats it just fans running, nothing else happens. So I either restart or power off and on and it goes back to the original error seq. Imma try moving the card to the other pci slot.... ok moved card to lower pci slot, did a quick clear CMOS and this time, it didnt go through the power up re-cycle 4 LED's to 3 LED's dance, it just lights up 4 stays there for a few secs then cycles down to 1 LED and gives the 1 long beep. I dunno if that means jack.. I'm stumped
  6. I've been tinkering with a few parts lately and during a fierce battle in HL2: DM my system froze on me. I tried to exit game, alt+tab out, esc out, ctrl+alt+del out but no response. So I hard booted and ..... no video. Tried again, nothing. Cleared CMOS. Nada. Looked under the hood and heres whats happening: Press start -> begins to powerup normally (fans spin up; HDD starts to spin; XG case display powers up, no video) All 4 diag LED lights come on and quickly goes to 3. Then it starts recycling the powerup sequence... back to 4 lights then to 3 then 4 then 3, etc. cyclically, for about 8 or 9 cycles Then finally cycles down to 1 LED and gives 1 long beep and thats all she wrote. No video, no HDD spinning, no POST, although the fans keep spinning away (the chipset fan starts at full speed then slows down until its running but the lights aren't lit) DFI manual says one long beep = DRAM error and I did have the DRAM at 2.8+v but theys always at 2.8v and love it. (the + being for the extra voltage selector right below where you adjust DRAMv in BIOS; i forget what its called) I recently have switched out the DRAM and the video card with 2gb OCZ Gold ddr 500 (4000) I was demo'ing from a friends PC (not in pc during freeze) and an HIS X1900XT 512mb radeon card I bought which was in the rig at the time of freeze. I ran the video card for about 1 day prior with no problems and it was flying through BF2 and whatever else I was doing. So I took the card out and put the 7800gt back in to see if the 1900 was a dud. But still no POST, same error seq as above. So I figured it was my crappy PSU and that the ATI card had shown my PSU the door. So I raided my friends case again for a PSU (a thermaltake 'toughpower' 750watt badass) and same sequence as above. Tried both sets of memory in all slots, 1 stick, 2 sticks, orange, yellow no change. Did the official DFI-Street CMOS power dump and still same 9 restarts and 1 long beep. I told myself I'd make this short but wanted to give all the info upfront to avoid Q&A with anyone whos read this far. If you have, ty! And a little help please?
  7. You are able to have 4 sticks in your board and be stable? Wow, I couldn't even get to POST with 4 sticks of HyperX in so for now I'm just running 2 in the orange slots. Do you overclock? Been able to get them up and stable at higher than stock speeds?
  8. Are you trying to stripe your drives in raid? If not, then unplug the data cable of the drive you are not installing to and only try the install with one drive. If you are setting up a raid array then read the sticky here and go to maxtors website for info or drivers if you get stuck again. Have you used the install cd before?
  9. Yeah I tried and tried to force the drivers in without reinstalling but there is no way to do it that I could tell. So I did a new install as well and that worked. It was definitely windows causing the problem. See syar2003's post above for the solution so if anyone else has this problem they can see exactly what the solution is. Thanks to all who replied!!! Here is the procedure for updating the dual core amd driver, msn hotfix & registry update (as detailed here): PLEASE BACKUP YOUR REGISTRY FIRST!! 1 - Install the amd drivers, download it from here... http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/..._13118,00.html 2 - read this website and download the hotfix....READ here http://support.microsoft.com/?id=896256 ........Download here http://www.amdzone.com/files/WinXPdualcorehotfix.exe 3 - Edit your registry to enable the HOTFIX, follow these steps. 1. Click Start, click Run, type regedit in the Open box, and then click OK. 2. Right-click HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESYSTEMCurrentControlSetContro lSession Manager, point to New, and then click Key. 3. Type Throttle for the new key name. 4. Right-click Throttle, point to New, and then click DWORD Value. 5. Type PerfEnablePackageIdle for the value name. 6. Right-click PerfEnablePackageIdle, and then click Modify. 7. In the Edit DWORD Value box, type 1. In the Value data box, make sure that Hexadecimal is selected, and then click OK. 8. Quit Registry Editor. 4 - Make sure your BOOT.ini has this command in it, /usepmtimer to check, right click on My Computer go to properties, click on the ADVANCE tab, then under startup and recovery click on settings, then click on EDIT....make sure your boot.ini looks like this [boot loader] timeout=30 default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS [operating systems] multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect /usepmtimer ACPI & Multiprocessor Info Forced HAL during windows install
  10. syar, i think you just nailed that one. thx! that was a nice post. - i've got lots (~100gb) on the drive i dont wanna lose so i assume i need to image this off of the drive to be safe. have to admit i've never done backups and thus dunno much about 'em but guess thats about to change. - is it possible to partition the drive and do a fresh install of same os there to test it? my guess tells me no that it must be a diff os if on same drive? - is it ever a good idea to do a reinstall from the recovery options, just replacing windows and (allegedly) leaving all personal files intact? or does that usually cause more instability than its worth? Thx to all repliers! someday i'll know enough to realize idkj..
  11. Vin86, the ACPI is under computers at the top of DM. can u open that and tell me what you have listed? Win XP MCE is exactly the same as xp pro it just has the media center module which gives you another way to handle media files fyi
  12. fyi, here is what i said on dreamsr's thread about hyperx: I have the HyperX KHX3200AV2 sticks (the non-UL's) and can attest that they will work on an LP board but they gave me some grief on installation. after not recognizing them, then bsod'ing them, they eventually settled down and have been very solid stability-wise since then. however, i cant seem to get a brutal oc from them like others here who use OCZ or G.Skill. Maybe the UL's u lookin at will OC better. But to get really good clock speeds, I always have to use a divider. Sooooo.... if ur'e getting a sweet deal and not OC'ing then IMO they's worth it though if ur'e oc'ing....well, lets just say i'm thinking about checking out the ocz's. fwiw...
  13. - no only one graph in TM. it's not cpu-z either, any prog that can distinguis 2 cores only 'sees' one, even if the processor is recog. as an X2 - I have 2 entries under processors in DM and tried uninstalling and nada, however I am getting the right info displayed during post (before it wasn't mentioning Athlon X2 DC 4200+ 2 Cores... at all it was saying 'core0: ddr400, blah, blah) so at this point I'm absolutely certain, with a low level of confidence, that it is either 1) busted processor destined for RMA 2) windows xp (MCE sp2 btw) is not recognizing what i've got or 3) somehow the board/bios isn't giving my X2 a shout out. btw, in DM under computers it says 'Advanced Config and Power Interface (ACPI) PC and thats it. i thought i read that it should have something else there. can somebody with an X2 check and see pls?
  14. I have the HyperX KHX3200AV2 sticks (the non-UL's) and can attest that they will work on an LP board but they gave me some grief on installation. after not recognizing them, then bsod'ing them, they eventually settled down and have been very solid stability-wise since then. however, i cant seem to get a brutal oc from them like others here who use OCZ or G.Skill. Maybe the UL's u lookin at will OC better. But to get really good clock speeds, I always have to use a divider. Sooooo.... if ur'e getting a sweet deal and not OC'ing then IMO they's worth it though if ur'e oc'ing....well, lets just say i'm thinking about checking out the ocz's. Hey! wanna buy my sticks??!
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