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joemauch

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About joemauch

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  1. It all depends on your gear. If you're hooking it up to altec lansing or klipsch's high end PC systems then definitely buy a new soundcard. If you play games get a Audigy2 or a X-Fi, if you just want good sounding stereo for music/movies with okay sound in games, get the Creative AV-710 off ebay. For me sound is important, i have $1500 speakers on a $1000 amp w/ a $500 sub hooked up to my e-mu soundcard, which i'm very happy with, but i'd bet there aren't a lot that invest that much into a high end stereo. I say if you have cheap speakers, like anything below $100 for stereo then stick with the built in karajan audio. -Joe
  2. see if it's sharing any IRQ's with major devices, like your video card I had that issue with my Audigy until i freed up some IRQ's by disabling stuff in the bios, Serial/Parallel support, SATA, floppy, etc, and other stuff I'm not using then I re-installed windows and windows assinged all the devices new IRQ's. That was a couple years ago though. -Joe
  3. here's the noisetaker 600W, specs look overkill to me! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16817194005
  4. works fine for me, used winflash then manually cleared the cmos, and now it's all gravy, looking forward to screwing with the .5 multi's.
  5. I've noticed speedfan works great in 64bit, you can configure it in the advanced options to either control the 3 fans (case, cpu and chipset) and it's compatible with smartguardian running at the same time. With either smartguardian 64bit smartguardian and through the bios you can use speedfan to overwrite the speeds on specific fans. Sometimes i don't like how smartguardian controls my chipset fan, so i use speedfan and have it max the RPM's ~2600 which is 50% speed on the VC-RE to keep it inaudible and it peaks at 45C which works for me. I like letting speedfan control the fan speeds, i set a max temp then it ramps up the fan accordingly, no complaints. Smartguardian is a lot easier for a lot less effort, speedfan is really awesome when tweaked, and some people report it reads temps and voltages more accurately off ITE chips. -Joe
  6. usually this is technology built into the microphone. Look at upgrading our mic, i'm sure your Soundblaster is not the problem. Plantronics comes to mind for having some excellent noise reduction in the mid and high end lines, not their cheapest stuff. -joe
  7. I was getting corrupting downloads myself... If you can install and run the firewall web app without a problem (i'm assuming most people can get this far) then go into active armor > application > offload default > set to Not Offloadable. That'll completely bybpass hardware acceleration unless you enumerate (specify) the app with a rule to allow offloading. What i do personally is set offloading to on, then i specify firefox and my torrent program to Not Offloadable through a rule. Search the Administrators Guide it installs for "not offloadable" because i don't seem to have problems with any other apps, like Trillian or games. So in a sense it runs like most software firewalls, eating some CPU time (not much on todays processors) but you can specifically enumerate applications for offloadabe/ not offloadable configuration. So it's a work around until i can get an answer from nvidia about why we're even having problems. -Joe
  8. Pretty simple, does the firewall worky for you or not, try TCP offloading on and off. I have the email of some nvidia guys so i can forward your problems with it to them although they say in a nutshell the NF4 platform is dead to them, their all about AM2 and Nforce 5 in a few months (see the NF5 announcement in Nvidia.com's press room) -Joe
  9. the new 1gb memorex traveldrive. Looks like http://store1.yimg.com/I/supermediastore_1883_81085781 -Joe
  10. instead of using a floppy to update the bios, i backed up my usb-drive contents and put the flash stuff on there, it booted into DOS just fine and flashed just fine. -Joe
  11. On my asrock i got 33C idle, now on the dfi i get 32C idle with the same overclock, so i dont think the DFI is running off. -Joe
  12. it almost always increases stability when you update your drivers... -Joe
  13. looking at your list, the ultra-d comes with yellow UV rounded cables. If your after silence and efficiency, i would _seriously_ go for the 600W Seasonic on newegg. They are very very _very_ well made PSU's and have been in the industry since the early 80's. Get the Opteron 165 (dual core) over the 4400+ hands down, they overclock better and will save you over a hundred bucks. Everything else looks 'thumbs up' from me. I 'just' spent like two weeks doing research so when i made those recommendations, trust me i know what i'm talking about You have a pretty grade A system, i'd just get the seasonic for quietness and efficiency and solid-build quality -- and the Opteron. OCZ was caught cost-cutting by tying the 5v and 12v lines together, which can lets say cause problems if you don't have enough draw on the 5V line when your 12V line gets yanked like during a game session, Seasonic/Enermax don't have this problem. I'm not saying the enermax liberty is a bad psu, i'm just saying the seasonic will give you that 80%+ efficiency and be much quieter. 600W is overkill though if you ask me for one video card. I bought the noisetaker 485W and i have no problems with one video card. people have run your vid card overclocked, plus cpu overclocked on a seasonic 330W PSU without issues -- althought that's cutting it too close if you ask me the Seasonic 430W or 500W would be better choices for you. Since your getting an ATI card on a non-crossfire mobo, you can't do crossfire so no point in getting the SLI PSU's, it's just overkill. -Joe
  14. my 3 year old maxtor 40gb ata133 gets 125mb/sec in HDTach using the nv drivers, so i don't think sata 300mb/sec is helping you much. maybe NCQ might. Granted one of Nforce's weaknesses is it's IDE controller, on my AsRock ULi 939 mobo i got 155mb/sec in hdtach with the same drive. -Joe
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