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About letdown427

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  1. I've downloaded the app fine here and all seems to be working. The temp for Core 0 is reading a couple of degrees above speedfans attempt, which is exactly what I was hoping would happen, as that would make the most sense. Core 1 is about 5-7 degrees higher, I've written an app to set all processes to either core, and this doesn't change the deficit at all. I'm fairly confident that Core 1 is the core that fails me first on P95, so it would be interesting to make some predictions with your app and test them with P95. I won't be doing this right now, as I'm in the middle of another app, but it would be interesting if the two were related. I've browsed your site, can I just second the request for offering the functions to external apps, I think you mentioned it would be appearing in a near release. If you produced a dll that could return the CPU temperature, you'd be famous lol, the amount of requests on forums for "dll to read CPU temp" etc... Either way, thanks for the time you've invested in this. I've been trying to find any info on reading CPU register values to try to mimic your results, but no luck whatsoever!
  2. OCZ without question. I can't belive you even asked that. I mean, Corsair XMS = Probably won't work with the board. OCZ = recommended by half the forum as working well and being great and so on.
  3. I've read over your OCs again, looks like 1.5v is necessary to get above 2.5. Overnight I ran dual prime95s at 2.5Ghz with 1.45v in set in BIOS. Ran no problems, 10hours 22minutes, then I stopped it Currently trying to find what's needed for 2.6Ghz. I do like having CnQ work though, so I'm just going to be using the CPU VID*110% etc options I think, although 110% is crapping out of p95 at 2.6Ghz, time to try *114% I might just end up sticking to stock vcore and 2.4Ghz, as that gives me lovely low temperatures, and 100Mhz won't make much of a difference really. But then, 200Mhz more would be nice, and that'd make it an Fx-60, and as they cost £700 :eek2: here, it'd be pretty satisfying :nod:
  4. tasr, Sorry for the late reply, had to get home from work, and make sure the new RAM dropped in nicely! I've found the PSU to be mighty fine, the rail voltages are always a couple of percent up, for example right now, 3.3 is at 3.34, 5 is at 5.13 and 12 is at 12.10, but I see that as a feature, a bit of extra juice won't hurt Rails have been rock solid, if they drop much, I don't notice it, and I really doubt they'd ever drop much more than .1 of a volt. It's also pretty damn quiet. So far I've removed the fan guards, soft mounted the 120mm fan, and removed the 80 altogether, as it had a tendency to ramp up after about 30minutes of use, and then nothing would get it down again, it would be blowing out cool air after a night of idle, and wouldn't ramp down again. So it went. Oh, and it looks frankly awesome I'm going to be taking some real time with this OC now I think, before I've just upped the FSB, tweaked until it's stable and been happy, but I'm going to really pay some more attention to performance gains, really tweak and test Oh and how I've tweaked my 2k install. hehe.
  5. Erm, once it reboots, you're not telling it to go back into setup are you? As in, when it reboots, and it'll say press any key to boot from CD, don't, and it should then go to the hard disk? Once it reboots, try removing the XPDisc, so it has to check the hard disk. I hope that doesn't sound patronising, just thought it was worth checking.
  6. My Mushkin XP4000 just arrived today, so I'll probably be starting out my OC on my 4400+. It does a mere 2.4 no problems, so hopefully I can hit 2.6 with some volts. Got a scythe ninja on it, idle temps are just plain chilly, so I've got me some headroom! Look forward to hopefully posting a good OC
  7. You could test/eliminate that possibility by just putting the pagefile on another partition... BSOD's are often RAM timings, as people have said. I was getting them, 2 tweaks in BIOS, no problems since!
  8. Believe it or not, your CPU is beavering away whilst you're in the BIOS. Windows puts it to sleep when it's not being used, so temps will be lower. Also, if you have CnQ enabled, your CPU will probably be at ~1.07 volts and 1Ghz in Windows whilst idle = chilly.
  9. We got the RAMfrom overclockers uk, and so the RAM will definitely be tested when it is RMA'd, and if it turns out to work, then we'll get charged for the honour of the RMA. So, how likely is it that the RAM and/or motherboard is just being tmperamental, and so when it gets tested in another (non DFI) motherboard, it works flawlessly? :shake: I've got n Ultra-D at home aswell, so I'll try the RAM in that PC, but if it doesn't work in that one, will it still be worth checking it in another moterboard that isn't a DFI?
  10. Any more thoughts, before we start the RMA process? Any ideas why the botom RAM slots appear to be a bit temperamental? Even the 'good' stick in either of the bottom slots, PC won't detect the RAM. Any ideas as to why that could be happening? It seems pretty unlikely that the board and the RAM are faulty!
  11. Now on Big Toe BIOS. Have tried optimized defaults and the settings from snowpro. In both cases, our 'good' stick works fine, swapping it out for the 'bad' stick means that 3 red LEDs stay on. Really is starting to look like that stick....?
  12. That's the problem, with that stick in, the PC hangs with the 3rd red LED on, i.e can't detect RAM. I'll give it a go now at lower volts, with the timings suggested. I'll get back with the serial number too. My thumbs are raw. If we can't get it to work, I'll try the stick in my rig, and then if the same happens, I suppose an RMA will be necessary. Thanks for the advice. I'll give that BIOS a go once I've tried the timings etc out EDIT: Just tried out the timings from the earliest post, no luck yet. PC still boots fine with the 'good' stick in the orange slot farthest from CPU. Put in second stick, no boot. Swap good stick for 'bad' stick, in same slot, no boot. S/N on good stick is one higher than the 'bad' stick, i.e 060194009403 works fine, 060194009402 won't boot/POST. I'll try tweaking some settings around a bit, all the slot combinations, then maybe try the other BIOS and timings. Some more information: The 'good' stick won't work in either of the bottom(nearest CPU) slots. Works fine in either of the top slots (nearest edge of mobo) Still at the stage where adding the second 'bad' stick anywhere will cause motherboard to fail to detect the RAM. Suppose I'll have to try that other BIOS. I know the best BIOS is the 'best one for me' but I was hoping maybe I could be pointed in the right direction at least, as opposed to just systematically going through every BIOS revision/version made until something good happens. I'll try the Big Toe suggestion, thanks
  13. Hey, thanks very much for the response! S/N is 0601094009102 for the non functioning stick, I presume they'll be pretty much the same? Other stick is in the PC, daren't take it out! It's 1:30 now, so we're going to bed, but we'll try those timings tomorrow, it's good to hear from someone with the same memory. I'll knock the voltage back down to 2.6, I thought it was worth pushing it a bit to try to get some stability. Would the BIOS play a part at all does anyone know? I mean, are there any inparticular that play nice with UCCC's? Thanks again mate, goodnight!
  14. Building a PC with a friend, signature is for my pc, so not relevant. Basically, DFI Ultra - D Latest BIOS, 04/06 G.Skill 2x1GB PC 4000 3-4-4-8 RAM, just purchased. One of the sticks will allow us to boot into Windows and be on our merry way. However, if the second stick is in, in any configuration, the board stops on the detecting RAM stage, i.e with three LEDs lit. Have set BIOS timings to 3-4-4-8 as per RAM specs (3-4-8-4 in BIOS) the rest are on AUTO. Have tried 1t and 2t. Have tried it at 200Mhz as stock, and at 250Mhz as per the RAM ratings (loooooong shot) Have tried voltages at 2.6, 2.7 and 2.8 again as per specification. Is it worth going to 2.9? All the power connectors are plugged in. The PSU is a Hiper 580w as per my signature, and that PC runs fine. Rails are stable as anything, albeit a touch above spec, but that is typical of the Hiper PSUs, as they are intended for OC'ers (and still well within +/- % levels) The rest of the box contains: 3800+ X2 NEC 4570 2x Samsung Spinpoints HIS X1900XT Is it worth trying a different BIOS, and if so, which one would be best suited to handling the G.Skill RAM? Have cleared CMOS, was initially necessary to get the RAM working at all. Would it be worth leaving CMOS reset on overnight? It took some time to get the 'good' stick working, so we'd rather not go down the CMOS reset route, again. Don't have another rig handy to test the RAM in at the moment, so any advice would be much appreciated. Hope I've covered everything necessary.
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