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baaj

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Everything posted by baaj

  1. You might want to consider something in New England. It would be a easier first step for your family and not as drastic a change as somewhere in the deep south (unless of course a drastic change is what you really need). Connecticut is a really nice place for a kid to grow up and you won't be too far away from your family. It's just a few hours driving distance from NYC, but you'd never know it. Just stay away from Fairfield county - it is just too expensive there. The southwest is really nice and from my own expereince, its easygoing culture is more compatible than the South for a yankee from the Northeast. Good luck with the move and here's hoping that you can do it soon!
  2. You should be fine unless you go SLI or add a few more HDDs, etc.
  3. You wont find it in BIOS...it runs in windows ftp://ftp2.ocbase.com/ocbase3/OpenBeta/OCCTv0.91.exe -or- http://www.short-media.com/download.php?d=456
  4. Is there a real fix for this or are there just these workarounds?
  5. My 2 cents. It's recommended to run memtest on the sticks individially then together in dual channel. In practice, many people run the memtest on one, then add the 2nd. If no problems, then you're good to go. I run all tests for 8 hrs. when I do a new build. Do Prime last - this is the most strenuous test. Good luck with the build!
  6. I belive what you are talking about is the 'cold boot' issue, expereicned by some here. Try cycling power from the PSU itself. Once the RAM light comes on again, you can boot as normal. I started experiencing this only recently as well, with my rig running smoothly for over 8 months. I understand that installing a capacitor in line for the FRONT power switch solves this particular issue, though haven't tried it myself.
  7. If you can't get into BIOS, try a CMOS clear.
  8. Did you follow the build guide? (link below in my sig) memtested? all 4 power connectors plugged in?
  9. Pure speculation...but DFI might have a relationship with Marvell and is contractually bound to use their chipsets for x number of years or mobos. When nvidia had an integrated LAN chipset in the nf4, DFI just added both. Am I right? Anyone?
  10. Also check out the guide I added to my sig. This was what I (and many others) have used to get everything up and running. Don't skip any steps, or you'll be sorry when you have to start troubleshooting. Note that it could be a PSU problem, but try memtest first
  11. I use the marvell. No particular reason though. same speed, etc
  12. I've been happy with the Evercool VC-RE. Quiet and dropped my temps a few degrees.
  13. Check out the pics on the 2nd post of this thread to verify. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60145 once you have done this, make sure you run memtest for a few hrs minimum. Most new build issues are due to memory errors.
  14. If you have a floppy, you might need to get a splitter (y cable) to make both connections. You must make the connection to the mobo AND NOW BACK TO THE ORIGINAL THREAD...
  15. Let's start from the beginning... Do you have all 4 power connecters plugged into the board? Did you run memtest? [edit lowbow beat me to it]
  16. Last year I won a iBook laptop in a contest from my online bank. My Dell laptop just died three days before I received it, so the timing was perfect!
  17. If you have tried reseating video card with no result. Check all output cables and make sure they are secure. Like lowboy said, it could be the PSU. These boards require stable power. If you cant test your gfx card now and have another (approved) PSU lying around, try that.
  18. I have similar problems with my eVga. Try underclocking it and see if it's stable. If it is, I'd RMA.
  19. Sounds like a grounding issue. Is the socket you are plugged into properly grounded? You can test for it with a cheap doodad from Radio Shack. This is assuming that everything in the PSU is functioning as it should be.
  20. You can make changes to the boot.ini file in windows and there will be no problems EDIT Better yet, make the changes in Disk Managment, then verify that the changes have been updated in boot.ini
  21. The voltage setting in BIOS will be very close to the value. Using a multimeter on my board, the actual voltage was about .1v LESS than what was set in BIOS. The software reports +.1v HIGHER than BIOS. EDIT [software used was cpuz and smartguardian] Thus, the BIOS settings should be close enough for most of us. I just had to know fer sure.
  22. This sounds like a problem with the OS or a virus, rather than something with the hardware. Before you sink any more $$$ on hardware, try installing a 'test' OS on a clean partition.
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