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About Darneigh

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  1. I have experienced with loosing connection in BF2 if I don't set my affinity. Was also considering loosing the X2 4400 until I figured out the affinity solution. Simply set everything but BF2 on your CPU 1 and BF2 on CPU2. Now it is always smooth sailing and performance is excellent. No lost connection either.
  2. Ok for those that have been playing BF2 consistently and are aware of most of the common entertaining or irratating habits we see from those few players. Well here is a video done in an ingame documentery style that had me rolling with laughter. Thank You CFF clan for it. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=57...9&q=Battlefield BTW I am " MACK01 " ingame If you see me about on westcoast servers.
  3. I will not say anything one way or another about Enermaxs compatability, BUT! I had an Enermax PSU and could not overclock on four different boards(3ultra-D's one Expert) and two different CPU's 148 opty and a 4400X2 both with ocz gold GX Memory. Since I have been using OCZ PSU's Everything has Oc'd exceptionally. When the NF4 first came out antec had some sort of incompatability with it if I remember correctly and that has been addressed now as they claimed at the time it would be corrected. Can't remember specifics. However,is that Antec PSU a late model or from earlier stock, you might ask yourself. Just some food for thought . You may want to look into the specifics on your powersupply's compatability. I have a 550 true on my old pentium4 and didn't attempt to use it for just this reason. The Enermax led me to a rediculious amount of hours of wasted time with too much trial and lots of error though. The 600w Enermax should have been fine. I found there where minor discrepencies and Enermax RMA'd it but I was not about to wait so I have an OCZ 600w in one,the other an ocz 520w. The opty oc'd at 2.8 at 1:1 mem. Haven't tried to run the new replaced Enermax. I will get to it when I have some time, till then I can only guess. GL with your search for the truth Still this intrigues me,you stated you used an old 400wPSU so how are you connecting the 8pin power cable as this board uses a server style 8 pin power connection. This connection is just left of the 24 pin connector,tight against it. I doubt that 400W PSU has one so I am wondering how you could have even attempted to try it on this board. The Expert takes an 8 pin not a 4 pin independent connector like the old boards and it must be connected. Just covering the bases, sometimes the obvious isn't.
  4. You might want to check out Polarflo waterblocks at http://www.polarflo.com/ .They have an exceptional design with remarkable performance. The bases are forged raising the density of the copper.Makes sense from an engineering vantage, Polarflo is a company origionally producing commercial thermalcooling products and have very successfully developed exceptional performing retail products now. Worth a look. I switched to the MCT-5 and it works well no side effects but the cost for me was meaningless and I did so for simplicity. Water with a teaspoon of Mercurochrome added to prevent fungal growth and the peak global lifetime antifreeze will give you competent cooling. just keep the antifreeze at no more than 30% solution or you will loose thermal performance.
  5. Lapping is a bit of work but worth the cooling performance. I use a piece of tempered glass that was a cabinet door over a sink. Start with 300 on a severly rough surface,but usually 800 wet sandpaper (automotive parts stores have it) work this till the grain covers the entire surface of the cooler. This gives you a guaranteed flat surface to start with. Then use 1200 or 1500. Finish with 2000. To start. Get the glass wet put down the paper so it sticks flat no bubbles under it wet the surface and polish away. Turn the Cooler 90degrees when you switch paper sizes and polish till the lines are no longer visible crossgrain. I finish with a metal polish like mothers or blue stuff . It's in the cleaning/polish section of the Auto supplys. Then clean it with alcohol. You are attempting to get as much surface contact with the chip as possible for heat transfer. Use a good thermalpaste. As5 OR AsCeramique. Do this with all your cooling blocks water or air. There is a noticeable difference in performance.
  6. Well that is a bit Lengthy got typing till I finished my line of thought. Suppose I could have made it a Thread. With a good radiator you do NOT need a resevoir just the fillport. Oh I see you are from the UK. If you are mechanically inclined consider a custom system for Thermal performance.Check for the cost of heatercores over there, The Mercedes cores are all aluminum and too pricy here. I have one that is used from a sedan and a bit large I figure too overkill so it sits. You may have access to an all aluminum at an acceptable size (small) and cost. I cannot see any advantage to getting the kits. The memory cooling is not necessary as the memory doesn't produce much heat and the backside isn't coolable anyway. I am clocking a BFG 7800GTX at 502/1400 using the OCZ copper sinks on my memory. They do not even feel warm to the touch. Origionally I used 1/2" Tygon but that is not of any advantage over 3/8". The Tygon hose is expensive but highly flexible,zero porous and designed for chemicle lab work. Your Iceberg is great and a good call for that boards design. Mount your pump bottom front. Forget the resevoir concentrate on a good radiator..
  7. The best pump and only pump I use is the Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 3 350 GPH. This is a magnetically driven pump meaning there are no seals to leak motorside and it is designed for long term constant duty. The size might me a bit larger than some but I have it in a small midtower on my other comp and the flow is exceptional. You can see it here http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DN1121 . I have been running it for 2 years without a bump, those that use it swear by it. For water blocks look into polarflo.com. They have an exceptional design surpassing the whitewaters. The bases are forged raising the density of the copper. Polarflo is a company origionally producing commercial thermalcooling products and have very successfully developed exceptional performing retail products now. Danger Den has supplied most of my other products. The exception is the radiator for my main computer. I have found the research and testing shows the heatercore radiators outperform the commercial products. Danger Den's double size core isn't the best flowing though. The 1972 chevy blazer heater core has inlet and exhaust at seperate ends allowing for single directional flow. this alleviates the turbulance /resistance that takes place when the water makes a U turn in the bottom tank of their core which has inlet and exhaust at the same end. Price is about the same though and they do have the barbs installed. For tubing Use the TYGON 3/8 with 1/2" nipples on your hardware. The inside ID is the same and a pan of hot water to dip the ends in makes installation effortless and results in a nice tight seal.The Tygon is very flexible so heating it is optional for ease. Now are stainless auto style hose clamps necessary,well for me yes. I just don't care for the thought of those little plastic clips and the image of liquid seeping out the bottom of my case makes me tremble,so the expense of stainless clamps are a security blanket so to speak. Test for leakage before you install your waterblocks. I have had a new one leak. Ideally remove everything and testing it outside the system after you have the hose, system configured and finished sounds good,but there are drawbacks(hazards) to removing and reinstalling waterblocks so I just pressure test the hardware before making up the hoses ,use good clamps and tighten them with a socket NOT a screwdriver. You do not want to be pushing on these clamp screws,a socket allows for torque without the down pressure. One other trick I use is how I wire my powersupply. I install a small 120v switch on the front of my case and run the pump and powersupply off of it. Thus without turning on the pump there is no power to the PSU either. It just requires cutting a PSU cord and drilling a hole in the case back to get it inside to the switch for soldering. Pump cord Likewise. Switch is soldered on the white wires two to he pump and PSU cord and on the other end one to a cord with the wall plug end on it,If you want to get fancy you can mount a Male PSU style adapter in the back on the case and solder into that so yu can just use a removable PSU cord again. I found them at alltronics.com [94J003 260 IEC Male W/Mounting Ears 0.0 10 $ 2.90] lot of 10, Now harness(solder) the blacks and grounds together and use electricle tape to insulate them. Don't be shy tape is cheap,shorts stink and can be deadly. With a high volume pump I have made extensive use of 90 elbows without restriction affecting the cooling. I buy them at Ace but any hardware should carry urethane elbows in 1/2". On the subject of plumbing run everything in series, Pump,CPU,GPU,GPU,NF4,Radiator and use a fillport mounted on top Tee'd into the line leading from the Pump, these fillports have made reservoirs obsolete. No you don't need the reservoir. Just roll your case to get the air headed to the top and refill. Takes a few turns. I make use of an NF4 block as the stock fans on the DFI boards are inadequate by my standards. Some feel they are fine (45C-50C that's a heat pump), any heat I can send outside the case is good by me. I have an Expert board so room between the PCIE slots is no problem. A personal call there. On the Graphics cards memory OCZ makes some nice memory coolers (copper finned) that install with tape there are other brands now too. !!!Do not use thermal EPOXY on your GPU Memory!!! Save your origional air cooler for reinstallation if you find the need to RMA it. The taped on copper fins are easily removable and with the factory cooler reinstalled RMA is no problem. Lost a fx5900 to epoxy. A nice trick for a quiet pump is the mount. By a piece of soft 1/4" rubber hose cut 4 pieces an inch long or so and drill a screw hole through one side at each end opposite from each other place your bolt through these holes so the head is inside the hose and the threads face opposite directions at each end. Bolt the hoses facing the same direction onto the pump base as in,all right or left to maintain your bolt pattern, now bolt the down facing bolts through holes you drilled or will drill in the bottom of your case. It offsets the pump the length of the hose isolaters so check clearances. This will isolate any vibration from being transferred to the case base, It becoming a megaphone. One other thing the right fans on the Radiator = quiet. I was worried on my first install now I would NEVER consider a system without watercooling. Takes time to set it up origionally and many trips to the hardware store but they are far too efficient at cooling. I OC with no consideration to heat now. On a very hot day my max CPU temp is 38CStress testing. Normlly 30C. Hope this helps , these are just my way of installing water systems with excellent results at an acceptable cost.
  8. I have been reading about the temps with watercooling. Have these waterblocks been Lapped to a mirror finish with 2000 grit and polished out with jewlers rouge or metal polish. I never get over 30.6C even during Prime95. I did however put a few hours polishing my blocks out and this custom system moves a lot of air over the radiator. As far as overclocking goes I am not faring as well as I had hoped. I just had it fail at 245x11 on 1.632 volts. Anything above 248X11 and I have to up my voltage just to get it to post stable in windows, 2770 is definitely my ceiling just to get windows up. However I can't get both sides to run stable. I expect I just have a chip with one very weak side. CPU0 will run Prime95 at 2750 just fine but CPU1 is constantly failing. If 2640 is the best I can do stable I may run it on a 10x multiplier for the bandwidth. Well 2684 is holding stable so far. My memory is running great after replacing my PSU with an OCZ 600W. These 4400 x2's do not appear to be routinely overclockable so don't get your hopes up for any extreme OC. It's frustrating to have one good CPU in a chip and the other fall on it's face. CPU0 will run even with lower voltage but without voltage CPU1 is hosed. Single core seem to be more dependable to reach an expected OC.
  9. Except for a few periphial components we are running the same main components and much like yourself I have experienced the same wall on a stable overclock. I can get my CPU to 2770. Also the memory runs at 250 FSB just fine at 10x250 but at 11x I get errors at 2750. I was origionally runing gold VX and had issues same as I have seen others experience. The interesting coincedence we where all 3 running enermax powersupply's so I have just installed an OCZ 600W to see if it makes a difference. I'll post my results when I get a bench on it. See if I can get stable now. I am however running 64 xp and am not shure how the OS may impact my Overclock. My settings are in my sig. Try these links to ocz's forums for setting recommendations by OCZ staff. The second is by "Tony aka Bigtoe" http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/sho...3&postcount=13 http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13129
  10. Everything I have read indicates little advantage to raising the chipset voltage many raise it just in case it helps though there is no hard evidence, IE controlled testing proving it helps. I ran it up a bit to 1.30v for the same reasons and have had no ill effect. Is that 4400 LE memory? Here is a link (Same hardware) related to tweaking it,might be relative. http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=4...&highlight=4400
  11. First decide how much ram you want to use as most new games like BF2 require 2 gigs to run smooth now. You do not want to run 4 banks of memory on an A64. The memory controller is in the CPU,not on a northbridge like intel's,inherently preventing much of an overclock with 4 banks as cpc must be (disabled/2 clocks) also giving you a big performance hit. Thus all the faster 1024 ram on the market now. The good news is it's close to your price range.Well I think your prices overseas may vary. That Ballistix is very good memory but is also the most expensive and do you really want to go 512 it's pricey to realise you need 2 gigs later. Mushkin has 2x1024 on sale right now factory direct at $195 US http://www.mushkin.com/doc/features/991483...l.asp?source=GA extremely good memory. OCZ has 2 GB (2 pcs 1GB) DDR (500) PC-4000 OCZ Gold (OCZ5002048ELGE-K) at around $230. The EL is about $25 more and comprable to the Mushkin that is usually @ $279. Gskill has excellent memory also for DFI you will find many are fans of it, but that Mushkin deal is hard to beat right now. Research them all. Gskill has samsung chips that might be TCCD. That is 3200 rated but was highly overclockable in the 512 chips not shure how it performs as 1024. Not shure how the prices will relay overseas. If this is a gaming rig you are building reconsider your memory choice. Good Luck to you.
  12. My memory runs at 500 fsb fine with 250x10 = 2500. Just trying to get it to 250 at 11x or 2750. That is my wall. With a divider the CPU will max 2770 just fine. I can't get it to comply at 1/1 though. I want it all grrrr! I have a new PSU coming (OCZ PowerStream ATX 2.01/EPS SLi w/Adjustable Power Rails & LED 600W PS) I have a suspicion I am having issues with the Enermax PSU and DFI boards. Tried 3 boards two ultra's and this Extreme same issues on all. This same PSU was being used by two other people experiencing the same issues. So out the door with it just in case.
  13. Welcome to AMD. As I am new myself and about 3 months and many hours of study ahead of you the best advice I can give you is follow the guide that is sticky in this forum "Other - "THE" Definitive DFI AMD Overclocking guide! (merged all the overclocking stickies into one guide!) ". I know it will seem extremely complicated at first if you look at it as a whole but just go through the guides and take it step by step. It really isn't so complicated after you get the concept down. Just a bit time consuming. To get mine up to 250x11,2750 I have to run 1.50 /vidspc 1.09%=1.64v and loosen up the settings. I keep the same timings. But it won't run stable at all. I will keep tinkering but for now 2640 is extremely stable staying with 1.550V. I have seen 1.67v used but a max of 1.65v is what I have seen recomended. I use the 11x and lower FSB with my 1024 sticks so other than voltage our settings won't be comprable. The auto settings,well they work but for a good stable OC you will want to manually adjust them. Good Luck Let us know how it goes.
  14. I have been wondering if there was a modded Bios for this board yet. I see Tmod has made one (704 2bt) that you are using Day187. Did it make a difference in your OC? I'll have to find it and give it a test drive.
  15. I have actually had the best results running tref in auto although 2064 worked well. I'm running the same memory and CPU Though I am still tweaking it to get my memory to 250 FSB 1/1 ultra stable. I have a max of 277 FSB on the CPU With dividers. At 250 this memory gets unhappy eventually. I am running stable at 240x11 1/1 2640. Looks like you have been more successfull than me with your memory settings. This is my First foray into AMD oc'ing myself. I have spent weeks studying and tweaking/learning the hard way. I'll Post my final results let us know how you do. Just realized 250 FSB was at 11X unstable or 2750. It's my goal,well we shall see.
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