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Everything posted by Oceanborn

  1. My guess is you can....but check on their website first....
  2. One thing is for sure...if you keep the same settings for your BH-5 you risk frying your new memory ! :-) So just load optmized defaults before you remove the old ram and the put the new ram in... About the BIOS...I'd not change it unless you're having problems with the new setup.... cheers
  3. Not that I'm aware of...but in honestly I'd go with the OCZ EB.... :-)
  4. When you flash it in DOS mode... what exactly is the command line that you use?....just out of curiosity..
  5. and to answer Sharp... Idle Load CPU 33C 43C Chipset 42C 47C PWMIC 41C 46C
  6. It happens mainly in Age of Empires III and I didn't see any options for EAX... I'm using Nvidia Drivers now which has EAX support I believe...
  7. Hey Guys, sorry if this is a repetition, however I didn't find any specific case with the search function nor browsing the threads...Anyway My problem happens only when playing games, the onboard sound stops for no apparent reason...I'm using the onboard sound and I remember of the days of my old ASUS P4P800-E Deluxe which has the exact same codec did the same thing....the only solution when I had the asus was when I got a better case that gave me better chipset temps...apparently the southbridge when running too hot made the sound stop in gaming. Now with my DFI SLI-D the same thing happens...playing games fine and all of a sudden it stops...usually after 20 or so minutes of playing.... Tried Nvidia Drivers...Realtek drivers....no go...did a fresh install of windows and didn't do a thing.... Anybody has any suggestions?
  8. I recommend you using any cooler that blows air DOWN since it will help cool down the PWMIC are where the big butt heatsinks are, the arctic freezer blows it towards the memory modules if I'm not mistaken and that will lead to an increase if temperature in that area....I'm using a XP-90 with a Panasonic fan.....it works beautifully....but you got other good options....check out some vendor websites...they often offer links to reviews on the web....it can help make your decision
  9. You can do what I did....I replaced both stock fans with two "Ultra UV reactive fans" not only they look awsome and they're rated at 69cfm or so spinning at 1700rpm I installed a fan controller because the intake one if not conected to a controller can be noisy at 1700rpm....so you can do the same....when I'm using the computer normally I slow down the speed to 1200 or so and when playing games, crank up full speed so it sends enough cool air into the chipset.... But any fan that pushes more than 50cfm will do a good job since the stock antec ones pull only 35cfm or so...
  10. You're probably right....but then again, the engine never failed before and then when the "chassis" is changed, it decides to stop working....funny isn't it?
  11. This has NOTHING to do with the issue here....you can find out about that on the "Recomendations" section,,.,,
  12. You don't need ANY floppy drivers unless you're running a RAID array. If I'm not mistaken is under "ATA/ATAPI or IDE controllers" ....it's NOT going to be written "SATA Controller" that's for sure....
  13. You have a clean install of windows and removed the firewall and are still having issues with the network? I guess we have to thank the taiwanese gods to provide the lanpartys with 2 network controllers...lol Jokes aside man Try all drivers you can find....example....my network and sound don't even install if I use the "official" Nvidia drivers from their website...I have to use the Nvidia drivers from the DFI website to have everything running smoothly...so try both and see how it goes.... let us know ok?
  14. So what you guys are saying is "stay away from the expert" ??? lol
  15. Gentlemen...this is merely a setup either in the BIOS or if you're using smart guardian in windows....all you have to do is tweak smart guardian in the windows to find the perfect balance between performance and noise... if you're worried the CPU stopped spinning is because either in the BIOS or Smartgardian you set an option that says "CPU Fan turn off" and put a value that your CPU normally works at....all you have to do is increase this value to something like 40C.....and the fan will not turn off.....but like I said...you have to play with the values in smart guardian
  16. A lot of finger pointing and misunderstandings in this thread....people trying to detect something this guy did wrong, obviously running the CPU day in day out at 3.1ghz doesn't seem like a good idea...but when it's all said and done, it doesn't change the fact that his CPU was working fine on a previous board and when it DIED....he said everything was at STOCK since there was a CMOS checksum error... So unless the expert doesn't load the defaults when a checksum error occurs like all other boards something fishy could have happened... But again...we'll never know will we?
  17. I guess it seems that Opterons have core 0 as crap and X2 is the core 1...judging by everybody's answers here....hehehehe
  18. Hey guys....I had a similar problem with the exact maxtor drive when I had my ASUS P4P800 E-deluxe...apparently the ICHR5 southbridge didn't like it and PC wouldn't even boot it when it was plugged onto the SATA ports....as soon as I plugged the Maxtor on the same board, different controller (Promise) it worked flawlessly, so these drives are know to ne picky with controllers, a BIOS flash might help....
  19. Your SIG says it all dude... and I quote you.... "Some Cheap PSU"..... DFI NF4 boards REQUIRE a minimum 480Watts 24pin native quality PSU I wouldn't be surprised if you PSU killed your HD with bad power....
  20. Hehehhehe, that's one ambitious project mate....let me know how it works for you...
  21. Hi....I have the exact same case as you....and motherboard layout, so....at the very bottom of the board below the LAST PCI slot....you have two fan headers, but they DON'T have RPM monitoring...that's why smartgardian only has PWM IC instead....but it's a misleading naming convention because PWMIC is the sensor in the power regulators in front of the CPU(Three Big butt heatsinks together) and on smart gardian you have a reading for RPM only thing is, the RPM it monitors is for the OTHER fan header in the Back of the board, next to the Karajan Audio module and CPU fan header, what I did was plug the exaust fan in the FAN2 next to the CPU one and the intake fan on the FAN header 3 which is below the last pci slot....unfortunetly that has no rpm reading....but then again, the fans in the super labnboy are so darn silent that even if they run at full speed you don't hear them
  22. Why would you wanna run the onboard sound when you have a way better dedicated sound card????? Disable it dude....
  23. First things first....SATA.....have no idea why you're having such a low performance to it, but a lot of people here trash the nvidia drivers well, let me tell you MY experience...I followed the general consensus here that it was trash and uninstalled it...well, let's just say that with the nvidia drivers it used to take 45 seconds for windows to load....with the microsoft ones 3 whole minutes!!!! Well...needless to say I put the nforce ones and it works like a charm.... Now for your network issues...again...you're running of the Nforce Interated NIC..my guess is, so try disabling the firewall to see what happens....that active armor thing can be a classy lady to setup sometimes, assuming that's the onboard network your running and not the Marvell one... let me know how it goes
  24. That RAM is rated @ DDR 500 at so if you wanna run it at 400, you'll gonna have to play with it....haven't seen any reviews that people actually wanted to run this thing at 400 since it's a 500 rated memory....I guess you'll have to try and see mate...
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